New harness problem

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Plaschy

Plaschy

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My old harness was a total mess. I replaced it all with a new one from Year One.
It was easy, but time consuming, to install the harness.
But now I´m stuck with a problem or problems.

This is what happends when I put
the parking light on:
Both the rear lights function but front parking lights doesn´t lit

the low beam on:
Both the front and rear lights works

the high beam on:
Both the front and rear lights works

the hazard lights on:
Only the right rear works

the hazard lights and the parking lights on at the same time:
Right rear and the two front flashes. Left rear only lit.

the hazard lights and the low beam on:
Right rear works. Left rear only lit.
None in front works.

Brake lights:
Only right rear works

and

The internal indicator lights for turn signals in the dash lights steadily
except
When I push the indicator downwards to “turn left” the right indicator lamp is lit
and vice versa turning right

Also have a problem with overheating cable
A cable at/behind the dashboard smokes when key is turned in to second stage. I haven´t figured out which one yet. Stopped working when I smell the smoke. Have to take down the cluster to see which one it is.

I have looked in the service manual for my ´67 Valiant but I can´t find an over all solution to the problems.
 
First, I assume this is supposed to be a factory equivalent harness, as opposed to something like a Ron Francis?

Second, are you talking the entire car, or just part of it? The harness I mean.

This sounds pretty serious, as in, something got hooked up wrong, or the harness is defective

I would go after the hot cable first.

When you say you put the key into the "second stage" what does this mean?

Are you in "run", "start", or "accessory"

I would rig a heavy lamp, such as a stop/ tail lamp in series with the battery, so that when you put the key into whatever you mean by "second stage" You can SEE the lamp and the lamp will protect the car.

Start by disconnecting the ignition and regulator. If you still have a lamp, something in the car is either on or there's a short.

Make sure EVERYTHING in the car is off, radio, heater, interior lamp, etc.

Now pull fuses one at a time and see if the lamp goes out.

If not, start pulling major connectors off the main harness.

Pull the connector for the rear tail lamps up near the kick panel

Pull the turn signal connector at the steering column.

Continue down this path until the lamp goes out.

When / if it does, check that section of the harness

You have a shop manual / wiring diagrams?

Download factory manuals here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

or somewhat "alternative" wiring diagrams here:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantB.jpg


Another good tool that once in a while comes in handy are these "short finders" I'm not recommending this one, just an example:

You put it across a fuse, and it cycles on/ off like a breaker. The meter finds the wire drawing the current by causing a magnetic field, sort of like a wall stud finder

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT25100-Short-Finder/dp/B002XMUGZC"]Amazon.com: Tool Aid (SGT25100) Short Finder: Home Improvement[/ame]
 
67Dart273 said:
First, I assume this is supposed to be a factory equivalent harness, as opposed to something like a Ron Francis?

Second, are you talking the entire car, or just part of it? The harness I mean.
Click to expand...

Yes, it´s the factory equivalent harness. And it´s for the entire car

67Dart273 said:
When you say you put the key into the "second stage" what does this mean?
Are you in "run", "start", or "accessory"
Click to expand...

Accessory.

Thank you for the quick reply. I´ll follow your guide step by step. I´ll come back with a update soon.
 
Never thougth about that. I installed the harness a couple of months ago. I have forgot if I did ground the harness at all 8-[

From where to what should the ground points be for front, under dash and trunk?
 
Thank you all for the advices.
I'll try with a new turn signal switch. And check the bulbs.
I'll also double check the ground points described in the service manual (thank you pettybluedart). Will also follow the advice from 67dart273.
 
90% of all car electrical problems are bad or missing grounds..
 
Then:
The good: A while ago I managed to work all the lights out. A combination of fixing dirty ground points and no grounding at all.
The bad: The enginge wouldn´t start. All I got was a click from the distributor.

Now:
Hazard works. Turn signals work. No other lights works in and on the car works. I did the amp. meter bypass as I think somehow blow my fusable link trying to start the engine earlier. See pic.
None of the fuses are blown.

I have 12.63 volts at all (to my knowledge) necessary points. See pic.
The red wire at the ignition switch, both + and - at the coil has 12.63 volts as well.
My only concern is the brown wire from the starter relay which has zero volts at the starter but 12.63 volts at the starter relay.

And the enginge doesn´t start. All I still have is a click from the distributor.
Is it because of zero volts at the starter from the brown wire?
I took screwdriver at the starter relay and managed to crank the engine.

Why are the lights not working? I haven´t touched the wires for the lights since I fixed them.
 

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So far as the starter not working, that should be easy. You found it. The brown wire is bad.

So far as the lights,

This is troubling. I assume you say "no lights" you mean both headlights AND stop/ tail?

The light switch has TWO separate power sources, in other words, the light switch is really two separate switch circuits hooked together.

The headlight part gets power from what is called "the number one splice" inside the under-dash harness. If you look on the diagram, follow the original ammeter feed wires, theres a big splice which feeds off to the headlight switch, the ignition switch, and the "hot" feed to the fusebox. Maybe that splice has failed. Original Mopar splices were welded and I've seen at least 3 cars which had a failure in that splice, over the years.

Anyway, from the splice, it goes to the headlight circuit ON the headlight switch, which has a breaker (auto reset) mounted right on the switch.

THIS circuit only supplies power to the headlight, NOT the tail

Tail part of the circuit comes from a fuse on your fusebox.

Do you have power at the fusebox? At the headlight switch?

MIGHT just be something like corrosion setting into a fuse clip or similar.
 
I think my starter relay gone bad. Now I got zero volts at the relay from where the brown wire goes down to the starter and zero from where the yellow one goes to the ign.

I took it apart.
Inside there is a thin (as sewing thread) red wire rolled with the beginning and end attached to where the yellow wire and the neutral safety switch connects. This wire has a black mark ( burn mark?) close to each connection.
 
OK, the yellow comes FROM the ignition, and when you twist the key to "start" the ignition switch provides power down the yellow from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the start relay.

This is a change from what you had listed in your diagram. There you claimed you DID have power from the yellow, and power at the starter relay on the brown. This would indicate that the starter relay was getting power, was "pulling in" and was closing the contacts to the brown.

You need to find the problem BEFORE you jump on the start relay.
 
Ended my vacation the other day and have spent som time in the garage.

What I need to know is how the power runs through the curcuit.
This is what I came up with.
Red thick wire from battery gives power to starter.
Red thin wire from battery gives power to the starter relay.
From there goes another red wire that feeds the ammeter and the black wire on the other side.
The black wire from the ammeter is spliced: the black one feeds the alternator One red which feeds ignition switch. One red with tracer which goes to the fuse block. One black with tracer feeds the lights switch.
Is this correct?

If so, the problem is near to an end. My ignition switch is bad. The red wire to switch has 12.8 V, the black is spliced in to a to two black ones and a pink. On of the black feeds the flasher with 12.8 V. The other black wire goes through the fuse block to the heater switch. And the pink one feeds the wiper switch with 12,8 V. BUT niether the yellow, brown nor the two blue with tracer gets feed from th connectors at the ignition swich.

Please bare with. I have had this problem soooo long and the more I try the worse it gets.
 
WOW, makes me think what might be better, a total rebuild of my harness from Mr. Heaterbox (~$350) or the Year1 harness ~$550 ????
 
Check the grounds. Really you should ground each individual sockets. Then your sure they are grounded right.
 
Hi, Plaschy, long time no "see." It's not clear to me if accessories which go through the ignition switch are getting power, or even if the ignition switch itself is getting power---Do accessories such as the heater/ wipers/ radio go on/ off with the key?

This would show that the ignition switch is getting good power and at least part of it is working

(Are the ammeter wires hooked together, or at least hooked to the ammeter?)

You probably realize that the ignition switch is actually several switches in one housing

So refer to this diagram: (A section)

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantB.jpg

Your wire colors may be different, but I'm referring to how the switch contacts are laid out:

Red is power coming in from the main harness splice and ammeter circuit

Black goes out to feed acessories through the fuse panel. It is "hot" with the key either in run or accessory

Both the two above are large either no12 or no10 gauge wires

Dark Blue feeds out to ignition and the regulator, is hot only with key in "run"

Yellow is hot in "start" and engergizes the start relay when the transmission is in park/ neutral (automatic)

Brown is hot in "start" and feeds voltage directly to the coil + for a hot spark during starting
 
67Dart273 said:
-Do accessories such as the heater/ wipers/ radio go on/ off with the key?
Click to expand...
No. No. No radio installed.

67Dart273 said:
(Are the ammeter wires hooked together, or at least hooked to the ammeter?)
Click to expand...
I bypassed the ammeter and the wires are hooked together.

67Dart273 said:
You probably realize that the ignition switch is actually several switches in one housing

So refer to this diagram: (A section)

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67ValiantB.jpg
Click to expand...

I have those printed out as they are better than the ones in the service manual

67Dart273 said:
Red is power coming in from the main harness splice and ammeter circuit

Black goes out to feed acessories through the fuse panel. It is "hot" with the key either in run or accessory

Both the two above are large either no12 or no10 gauge wires

Dark Blue feeds out to ignition and the regulator, is hot only with key in "run"

Yellow is hot in "start" and engergizes the start relay when the transmission is in park/ neutral (automatic)

Brown is hot in "start" and feeds voltage directly to the coil + for a hot spark during starting
Click to expand...
Red has power at the connector.
Black has power at the connector but not at the fuse block
Dark blue (w/ tracer), yellow and brown has power at the connector.

So the ignition switch seems to be ok.
As the black wire doesn´t feed the fuse block I´ll have to change that wire to get the heater and wipers to work. Correct?
What about the yellow, blue w/ tracer and the brown? What to do next?
 
Made some more volt messurements.
I have 12.6 V through the 4 pin resistor ( both blue wires).
But at the pos. on coil only some 4 V.
Trouhg the alternator regulator to alternator is as well 12.6 V.

The horns works.

So the blue to the coil might also be replaced?
 
OK, sounds like you have a problem with the black, which should feed a buss in your fuse block, and indeed, would explain "no wipers" "no heater" or other acessories

The voltage at the coil "could be" normal, it WILL be dropped by the ballast resistor. The voltage at the "key" side of the ballast is OK

The yellow off the igntion switch only goes one place--through the bulkhead to one of the "push on" connectors at the start relay. Does not matter which.

You have an automatic? With the transmission in neutral/ park, the second "push on" connector at the start relay is grounded by the neutral safety switch at the transmission

The brown only goes one place --from the ignition switch, through the bulkhead, and to the coil+ (may physically connect to the ballast resistor) This is the circuit that gives you a "hot spark" during cranking.

Sounds to me like you are making progress.
 
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