Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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I got the pump mounted and the other stuff kind of mocked up. I'm waiting on some hose clamps and some other fittings hopefully we will be here tomorrow.. that's probably where I'm going to put the regulator. The low pressure switch instructions said to not put it on the backside because it made glitch at a fuel drop and interrupt the shot..
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Also careful what happens when you hit that red button LOL.. hopefully not KAPLOOEE!!!...
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I know you are gonna run the low pressure fuel shot off switch and i would as well.

But... talking to my buddy who runs more nitrous than is sane says the solenoids fire at almost the speed of light.(the speed of electrons through the resistance of the wire) so they open, nitrous is released.
By the time the switch can recognize it has low pressure that nitrous is already flowning..

In other words.. Test and test and test the fuel system. (Thinking about it i would put that low fuel pressure switch right on the fuel solenoid.)

And there is no way and hell i would even think about testing the fuel system flow while on the engine. I lost my last engine due to a stuck float. Now i dont even like testing the carb linkage beacuse of the fuel that sprays into my engine.

:lol:

Im excited to see you do this. I cant wait for the seat of the pants results review.
 
Cope said:
I know you are gonna run the low pressure fuel shot off switch and i would as well.

But... talking to my buddy who runs more nitrous than is sane says the solenoids fire at almost the speed of light.(the speed of electrons through the resistance of the wire) so they open, nitrous is released.
By the time the switch can recognize it has low pressure that nitrous is already flowning..

In other words.. Test and test and test the fuel system.

And there is no way and hell i would even think about testing the fuel system flow while on the engine. I lost my last engine due to a stuck float. Now i dont even like testing the carb linkage beacuse of the fuel that sprays into my engine.

:lol:

Im excited to see you do this. I cant wait for the seat of the pants results review.
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My plan is to run the arming switch power to the shifter and from the shifter button to the low pressure switch in from the low pressure switch to the full throttle switch and from the full throttle switch to both solenoids and the timing retard..
I purchased one of those junk Speedmaster nitrous plates again and I will unhook the two fuel lines from the carburetor and run them out to that Speedmaster nitrous plate that I'll set in a tray or something and cover with some kind of clear film. That way I can run power to the low pressure switch and the fuel solenoid while the fuel system is running and see if the pressure drops and or what's going on.. the cheap $44 Speedmaster kid comes along with the bottle bracket some more solenoid holders that are better and the actual fitting that goes into the nitrous solenoid that has a screen. Which is on backorder so it's actually going to be a good value...
 
You bought the same tank we talked about.
New is always nice.
 
Take a look at these.

You could have one end to inlet on fuel solenoid and a male on top of your race gas tank.

Before you make a fast pass you un snap and attach it back to the small tank. Trigger nitrous with the bottle off and watch the gas flow back into the small tank.....

Hum but then when you re connect did you introduce air into the system???

And they are pricey fittings so probablynot great for experiments.........

:)
 
sireland67 said:
You bought the same tank we talked about.
New is always nice.
Click to expand...
I thought it was pretty close to what you had but I just didn't want you to have to go through all that hassle and find out it didn't work or anyting. Summit I can just send it back and give me a refund.
Thank you again for checking for me again I just wasn't sure..
 
j par said:
I thought it was pretty close to what you had but I just didn't want you to have to go through all that hassle and find out it didn't work or anyting. Summit I can just send it back and give me a refund.
Thank you again for checking for me again I just wasn't sure..
Click to expand...
We are good, I figured you like to experiment, and since I am on the other side of the planet it is easier to play with Summits bucks.
 
Cope said:
Take a look at these.

You could have one end to inlet on fuel solenoid and a male on top of your race gas tank.

Before you make a fast pass you un snap and attach it back to the small tank. Trigger nitrous with the bottle off and watch the gas flow back into the small tank.....

Hum but then when you re connect did you introduce air into the system???

And they are pricey fittings so probablynot great for experiments.........

:)
Click to expand...
I do plan on giving a momentary shot to the fuel side before I turn the nitrous on to get the system loaded with fuel...
 
That sound like the ticket for the wire path.

My one thought is (if it were my car or job) i would think about not daisy chaining the power to the retard box. I would probably want the to have its own hot or at least the hot that feed the ignition?

I would not trust all those parts and connections in front of such an important part. If the retard fails maybe bad things?

My thought is just build the system with worst case scenario planned in.

You are as always, doing a fantastic job.
 
Cope said:
That sound like the ticket for the wire path.

My one thought is (if it were my car or job) i would think about not daisy chaining the power to the retard box. I would probably want the to have its own hot or at least the hot that feed the ignition?

I would not trust all those parts and connections in front of such an important part. If the retard fails maybe bad things?

My thought is just build the system with worst case scenario planned in.

You are as always, doing a fantastic job.
Click to expand...
I thought about putting the retard in right after the button to make sure it gets juice first, but then again I thought after all the safety devices, but maybe it's the biggest safety device and it should get juice right after the button. (That was a long sentence LOL) yes I think you're right let the retard get the juice along the way to the low pressure switch from the button. That way I can just disconnect at the low pressure switch and test and set the retard...
 
One more thing i just thought about.

The button on my shifter has very small gauge wire in and out. Im probably pushing the limit of that wire j8st runningy two step and line lock on that small gauge.

I know the line lock pulls so.e serious amps and i bet those solenoids are pulling amps.

You may think about buying a cheep relay from the local parts store and just using the small wire from the button to open and close the relay. Then run all the high amp draw stuff off the relay?

Just a thought.
 
Cope said:
One more thing i just thought about.

The button on my shifter has very small gauge wire in and out. Im probably pushing the limit of that wire j8st runningy two step and line lock on that small gauge.

I know the line lock pulls so.e serious amps and i bet those solenoids are pulling amps.

You may think about buying a cheep relay from the local parts store and just using the small wire from the button to open and close the relay. Then run all the high amp draw stuff off the relay?

Just a thought.
Click to expand...
yeah I don't have any relays on the car just fuse box stuff but you're correct now that you brought that up. I put that shifter on today and I'll be damned if you're not right that wire seem very thin. I know the nitrous solenoid drives a little over 16 amps but the fuel solenoid seem to be way less. Like just a few amps if that. I'll go ahead and get a relay and put that in there... Thank you for the wise suggestion...
 
I believe I have everything now to finish plumbing the fuel side... Once I get that done I'll try to run the nitrous line. I'll just put a plug in one end coming out by the passenger side rear seat. I plan to put the bottle on the floorboard behind the passenger seat. Then I can start getting all the wiring rigged up. It looks like Monday for this next push, stay tuned...
 
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I posted this in the wrong thread but I am getting the fuel side of this sorted out. I slipped Hardline inside the soft line from the fuel filter to the tee fitting. Now I just need to mount the regulator up on the firewall and come back from that t fitting through the regulator and back into the top of the fuel cell. I need another pack of 10 hose clamps LOL..
 
Also I mounted I'm bracket from the fender wall and hose clamp hit with a rubber insulator around the fuel filter to stabilize everything..
I'd like to get something to stabilize the nitrous solenoid A little better as it vibrates around quite a bit...
 
Actually everything is pretty much metal-to-metal. Again even that long piece of line his metal lined and also I want two more clamps on that as well, one at each end.. I'm only going to run 6 and 1/2 pounds of fuel pressure...
 
I got some more hose clamps! LOL I should be able to finish routing the return line through the fuel pressure regulator and back into the tank on Monday. I'll also try and route the nitrous line..
Next phase will be getting all my switches and relays organized and then I'll go ahead and try and get everything wired. At that point I can test the fuel side.
Last and very least I have a 10 lb nitrous tank, nitrous gauge, and temperature sensitive heat blanket to wire in as well on my Summit wishlist...
 
I think its 12" of rubber hose under the hood?
Also i dont think the fuel pressure regulator is allowed to be on the fire wall?

Mine hangs on a home made bracket between the carbs.

Next time i redo the wire in my car i want to put all the components on a board then wire it and jist mount the board in the car.

It looks super clean (bad *** race car style) , is easy to work on in the car and can be built on the bench.
 
Cope said:
I think its 12" of rubber hose under the hood?
Also i dont think the fuel pressure regulator is allowed to be on the fire wall?

Mine hangs on a home made bracket between the carbs.

Next time i redo the wire in my car i want to put all the components on a board then wire it and jist mount the board in the car.

It looks super clean (bad *** race car style) , is easy to work on in the car and can be built on the bench.
Click to expand...
I never heard that one about the fuel regulator on the firewall? I had it mounted on the firewall before and didn't have a problem so that's why I was thinking of doing it.
Also my argument LOL for the hose will be it's just connecting things. it's metal to metal underneath all the hoses... Even the long one is rubber over top of a rigid metal tube... I'll drive it down to the track one of these weekends and having it inspected. The nitrous oxide is still unhooked up electrically and obviously no bottle so it's just sitting there unusable.
 
Also if I have to spend another hundred or two hundred to get the a n fittings not a big deal but at least I'll be able to order the correct part. having everything mocked up allows me to get correct measurements...
 
Well it looks like another hundred and thirty bucks if I want to do everything in a/n. That includes an a/n filter and a/n lines.. we'll see how my budget goes this week.
 
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