now its a 383, advice?

-
6

69dodgedart360

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
300
Reaction score
90
Location
Milpitas
for everyone who has been helping me out by steering me in the right way with my 440 thank you all but im sorry to say its no longer mine. dad wanted the 440 for his challenger so he traded me for a 383 thats already been bored and honed and prepped for a rebuild. So now im building a 383 its the same deal as last time trying my best to build a very strong motor that will be capable of pulling off low 11's at the dragstrip. this is what i have in mind:

stock stroke 383 w/ forged crank
stock rods with KB400060 hypereutectic pistons
Edelbrock 84cc heads non ported OR 906 heads i already have...
Performer RPM manifold
850cfm carburetor
Schumacher Headers
Comp Cams 285HL 285/297 lift 545/545

4.10's
Dynamic 9.5inch converter
28inch tire probably drag radial

thanks for all your help everybody

P.S. is it just me or are there not too many choices for 383 pistons??? Also will the stock rods hold up?
 
I would go with the Edelbrock heads if you want to spend the money. They will flow alot better than the 906. You never mentioned what cam you are using. I would make sure you have least 10.1 compression or more. The stock rods to me should be ok.
 
To be honest, keeping the performance goals and dropping to a 383 means some changes need to be made. by changes I mean morphing from a street car that races to a race car on pump fuel. You will not get low 11s from RPMs or 906s with that cam. Especially with a street type convertor and gearing. The power requirement has not changed much, but the size has. So you have to build it stronger. If it was me, I'd get a set of CNC RPMs and run the M1 single plane. Get the static compression up to 11.5:1 to use pump super, and run a cam like the XS290S solid flat tappet. Run 2" primary headers and 3" pipes. The convertor will need a stall of 4500-5K. The RPM intake will limit power where you need to make it. You'll be wanting to turn the engine to 7K or so at the stripe and that means more gear, I'd be running 4.56s wth an 8" convertor. No low 11 second 383 is street friendly. The alternative is to use a stroker kit, but you're still going to need better heads and the associated stuff. It just means you'll need less gear and a lower stall.
 
What car?weight?
If a dart, the combo sounds good and will run 12's all day long w/slicks.
And I do think you can get into the 11's.
I like 3' pipes but 2' on the primary's isn't necessary, you can do this with
1 7/8 full lengths.
3500 min stall, thing is, much bigger and it's not much fun on the street cruising.
Heads need to flow a min of 260cfm on the intake, which 906 iron is more then capable of doing, but eddys are easier and would allow the 11+ comp you wanna run.
carb is fine, timing/curve will be critical for both purposes.

I like both cams [yours & moper's] as it's a solid.
 
Since you're going with new pistons anyway I'd stroke it to 438 (440 crank and rods), it'll better your chances of running in the 11's without being bottle fed. Downside is like Moper says, it's not going to be a very streetable ride.

Terry
 
One thing missing is how the car is set up and what leaf springs or suspension are you using?
 
thanks for the quick responses i have been doing a lot of thinking and as much as i would like the car to be driven on the public roads, i already have a street car so why try and make this one the same way when this is going to be a race car? i just hope i dont mess up when it comes to adjusting the valves for the solid cam. i know i really dont have the cash for CNC'ing the heads so i will run the solid cam in the mean time and then pull off the heads later and get the magic worked on them. if this thing is going to be screaming to 7000 im assuming i have to get some different rods too...
 
but the 440 crank in it since you are buying new pistons and rods...
 
Adjusting the valves is easy if you do this....

Have a friend with you, and loosen the adjuster 4 threads and insert feeler gauge between rocker/valve tip and your allen wrench into the adjuster, then have your friend crank the motor while you put a lil tension/tightening on the allen, once there is no more slack have your friend stop cranking the motor with the valve in the open position so that you can tighten the lock nut with out the adjuster moving or having to hold the allen since the spring pressure is now holding the adjuster from moving.
 
If you use light forged pistons (expensive, but needed) you could use stock rods, shot peened, with good bolts. Honestly, look at a 440Source B wedge 3.75 stroke kit... It will be cheaper in the long run. The CNC heads are about $800 more than the stock RPMs, so if you are buying heads, it's not much more. You'll spend a bunch on making the iron flow decently, and they are still heavy. So if budget is the restraint, then build the lower end as you need it, and then use stuff you can afford on the top, planning to change later. And simply accept it runs what it runs until you can get it all together properly for that ET.

edit.. another thought would be Stealths CNCd. They are cheaper but dont get as good a result. You'll be replacing the springs and retainers/locks anyway. Maxxed out, they might move enough air to make the numbers.
 
yeah i looked into the 440 source stroker kits and i have made up my mind and am going to do a stroker. But there is the 438 stroker and then the 496 stroker too. I am thinking if i am going to buy the whole kit i might as well go big with the 496 stroker but am thinking it might not be as efficient because i am not going to have the cash for CNC ported Stealths or Edelbrocks. If i buy the 496 stroker kit would it be ok with the low 11's performance goal in mind using the edelbrock victor heads or should i stick to the rpms? and a small solid cam i was thinking the MP .528 cam?

OR

Should i just buy the 438 stroker kit with the edlebrock rpm or Edelbrock Victor heads and use another solid cam?

Thanks everybody
 
I would stick with the RPMs and the 438. Possibly a set if Indy SREZs. The 496 is not the best idea IMO. Pistons are too short, bore is too cramped.
 
Here are the heads I would use. Easily breath with the eddies. 280 cfm out of the box and 330 cfm with porting. Easily a match for your stroker.

I too would stroke the 383. It will bring your rpm power band down and make more torque.

I want to build a 470 and use these heads.

Get em while thier still cheap...


http://www.440source.com/heads.htm
 
John we all know what you think about stealth heads. There have been many post from cly. head porters that said and have given numbers on unported and their ported version of Stealth heads. BTW what did you get on your flow bench. Do you even own one. We flowed a pair and they came out at 276 cfm . Yes that not what they advertise but flow benchs are not all the same and the opperaters are all not the same. For someone looking for a ported pair of heads the Stealth heads are the best deal.
 
slippery440 said:
John we all know what you think about stealth heads. There have been many post from cly. head porters that said and have given numbers on unported and their ported version of Stealth heads. BTW what did you get on your flow bench. Do you even own one. We flowed a pair and they came out at 276 cfm . Yes that not what they advertise but flow benchs are not all the same and the opperaters are all not the same. For someone looking for a ported pair of heads the Stealth heads are the best deal.
Click to expand...

Did I say NOT to buy them ?? NO , I ASKED a question and in typical fashion a source sword swallower gets his undies in a bunch for someone pointing out the OBVIOUS .

For the record if I had to try to fool a casual onlooker that my engine was running stock iron heads I would buy a set of these heads and then FIX them. But unlike others that spend more time genuflecting at the mere mention of the source I pay attention to the ACTUAL data posted by people I trust and don't accept less than the sellers claim because he's a good guy :toothy10::toothy10:
 
John you have always put your own twist on your oppinion about the stealth heads.You stoped comming right out and saying they were chinnese junk right after you had a vacation on the other site. Now you just jump on any post that deals with a good question about these heads and jab a quick remark then leave.For the record I own a pair of stealth heads and have ran hard in over 100 passes and gain in ET and MPH over a very good ported pair of 915s. John how many motors have you tested with these heads? Oh thats right you won't buy chiness junk.
 
slippery440 said:
John you have always put your own twist on your oppinion about the stealth heads.You stoped comming right out and saying they were chinnese junk right after you had a vacation on the other site. Now you just jump on any post that deals with a good question about these heads and jab a quick remark then leave.For the record I own a pair of stealth heads and have ran hard in over 100 passes and gain in ET and MPH over a very good ported pair of 915s. John how many motors have you tested with these heads? Oh thats right you won't buy chiness junk.
Click to expand...

We need the CRYBABY smiley here .:sad2: ... there I found one ...

Since MOPARTS has SOLDOUT and deletes threads to protect PAYING sponsers and bans people for pointing out the OBVIOUS I've had to tone down my replies , plus it's not worth it anymore .

Where's the twist ? I stated FACT ... source claimed 290cfm out of the box , no one has posted a set flowing that .
 
I will get a peice of paper and a crayon that will prove that they flow 290cfm just because I wrote it down just for you. Not a crybaby John just sick of certain Mopar gods that think they have to put their stamp of approval on every aftermarket part. Most like you that have never tested them or owned them.
 
JohnRR said:
We need the CRYBABY smiley here .:sad2: ... there I found one ...

Since MOPARTS has SOLDOUT and deletes threads to protect PAYING sponsers and bans people for pointing out the OBVIOUS I've had to tone down my replies , plus it's not worth it anymore .

Where's the twist ? I stated FACT ... source claimed 290cfm out of the box , no one has posted a set flowing that .
Click to expand...

Amazing, haven't heard or seen a thing of you in over 3 years (never really looked for anything) and here you are, being your usual opinionated self.

Long time no see, pal! :D

BLOWfarts is more like it, someone gets the job there every day.

Mark.
 
I know that on Brian H's superflow at Indio Motor, the source heads were around 265 @ .650 stalled there, not the 280 or 290 number.
 
slippery440 said:
I will get a peice of paper and a crayon that will prove that they flow 290cfm just because I wrote it down just for you. Not a crybaby John just sick of certain Mopar gods that think they have to put their stamp of approval on every aftermarket part. Most like you that have never tested them or owned them.
Click to expand...

I never said or even claimed to be a GOD , you started this **** , I asked someone else a question , NOT you , get back on your knees and keep bowing at the sources feet like a good little lapdog .....
 
Mark Nixon said:
Amazing, haven't heard or seen a thing of you in over 3 years (never really looked for anything) and here you are, being your usual opinionated self.

Long time no see, pal! :D

BLOWfarts is more like it, someone gets the job there every day.

Mark.
Click to expand...

ahh , my favorite greaseball , I've been everywhere Mark , where you been HIDING ???

my opinions are based on FACT ...

edit ...

I want to apologize to the OP and the rest of the interested parties providing and seeking info , some people need to just grow up
 
I have a very nice after-market single-plane intake that would work very nice on your 383...
 
I can see 3 time out's on the horizon line.

Relax gents.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top