Overheating 360 new engine

Bewy

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Internal friction may well be the cause of the problem. So can rust scale on the cyl wall jackets & a host of other things.
The point is, short of building a new engine, how to control overheating?
Try the things I listed earlier. Water pump efficiency that I mentioned makes a big difference. I have dropped the temp 20* on a 1967 Pontiac by modifying the pump to make it more efficient [ capture more water & pump it through the engine ]. This is more than most as the pump design was very inefficient & Pontiac changed to a totally new design in 1969.
Bigger, 3 row radiator, will help.
Turning the pump faster [ smaller pulley ]. This is another mod that makes a noticeable difference at idle.
Better fan [ more air ].
 

jrlegacy23

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I went through a similar issue. I did not read through all the comments but there were a few concerns that come to mind, and one of them is not air flow. I sealed everything, running a 3000 cfm fan, i can touch the radiator fins and they are not burning at all when my engine was at 205-210. The things I mention can al be done for free also.

First thing is make sure that the March Performance is turning the water pump the same direction as stock as you may be pulling the fluid at the pump rather than pushing it. It will still flow coolant, but not well.

Second, how is your heater core hooked up? Do you have it looped, or straight to the heater core and straight back? Either way, the coolant takes the path of least resistance. Make sure there is an inline shut off valve of some sort. Coolant is coming out of the head (hottest point) and if looped to the water pump, it is just flowing that hottest water back into the water pump to push through the block again. This compounds the heating and gives you a giant hot spot where your temp sensor is.

A way to test this theory is to put a set of vice grips on the hose going out of the block that is supposed to go to the heater core. This will stop that hot water from going back into the water pump and force it through the thermostat and radiator.
 

George Jets

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Here is what we did to get a performance 440 with the serpentine Setup to run cool.

Previous setup was box shroud and electric fan, was trapping the heat in the radiator.

Got rid of the electric fan and it's Restrictive shroud and replaced with an 18" solid mount Silent Run fan 3/4" away from the open radiator.

Runs cool now, no problem.

First layout of the test 14" silent run fan we had on the shelf. Then ordered In the new 18 inch solid mount fan, installed it and it took care of the problem.

Screenshot_20220621-205007_Gallery.jpg


18 inch solid mount fan.jpeg
 

plumkrazee70

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I wouldn't go down the timing route with the sniper, yet. The sniper will only allow you to change the advance at idle and at specific breakpoints. While a nice feature to have, you've already proven that timing isn't your issue (you advanced it yourself).

Back to the fans. Those two fans aren't covering the surface area of the radiator, so my bet is that those are the culprit of the overheating. Your pulley ratio looks good. Crank is larger than water pump.

How much room from wp pulley to radiator?
 

72bluNblu

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1- the belt is going over the top of the water pump so it's being turned the correct direction (assuming you have a standard rotation pump)
2- those fans can only pull air across the part of the radiator they're literally touching, which means your fans are pulling air across less than 50% of your radiator surface area by the looks of it. That's terrible
3- that looks like a March 40430, or the "style track" system. You should confirm that, and see if you can get exact diameters (like the published specs) for your water pump and crank pulley diameters.
4- what water pump is on the car?

If you in fact have a 5" diameter water pump pulley and a 7.5" crank pulley you're driving the water pump at 1.5:1. The most Ma Mopar ever drove one from the factory was 1.4:1, and those cars used the 6 vane standard pumps not the 8 vane HD pumps. .95:1 got the HD pumps, as the pump was overdriven for the AC cars (for a better fan output) the vanes were decreased. It's unlikely that's enough to cause cavitation, but, it was done that way for a reason.
So here is a fun fact. My radiator is a champion brand. They list a radiator with 2 fans and a shroud part # EC2374-2374FS10SP The fans are rated less than 900cfm each. This unit is rated for 375HP. Why such small fans??
Because they're just selling cheap *** fans to make some money. That's not nearly enough CFM to realistically keep a car cool in the real world.

I actually run a 26", 3 row Champion in my Duster. The radiator works great, my electric fans never run if I can maintain a constant 30+ mph on the open road (not in stop in go), regardless if it's 110°F out. But under 2k CFM isn't even close to enough for a fan set up. The factory mechanical fans move in the vicinity of 5k cfm if I remember correctly.
I went through a similar issue. I did not read through all the comments but there were a few concerns that come to mind, and one of them is not air flow. I sealed everything, running a 3000 cfm fan, i can touch the radiator fins and they are not burning at all when my engine was at 205-210. The things I mention can al be done for free also.

First thing is make sure that the March Performance is turning the water pump the same direction as stock as you may be pulling the fluid at the pump rather than pushing it. It will still flow coolant, but not well.

Second, how is your heater core hooked up? Do you have it looped, or straight to the heater core and straight back? Either way, the coolant takes the path of least resistance. Make sure there is an inline shut off valve of some sort. Coolant is coming out of the head (hottest point) and if looped to the water pump, it is just flowing that hottest water back into the water pump to push through the block again. This compounds the heating and gives you a giant hot spot where your temp sensor is.

A way to test this theory is to put a set of vice grips on the hose going out of the block that is supposed to go to the heater core. This will stop that hot water from going back into the water pump and force it through the thermostat and radiator.
Yeah, so fun fact, a heater core is actually a radiator. It just sheds it's heat into the passenger compartment and the returning coolant will be cooler than when it left the head. You shouldn't have to disconnect the heater core to get your cooling system to work properly.
Here is what we did to get a performance 440 with the serpentine Setup to run cool.

Previous setup was box shroud and electric fan, was trapping the heat in the radiator.

Got rid of the electric fan and it's Restrictive shroud and replaced with an 18" solid mount Silent Run fan 3/4" away from the open radiator.

Runs cool now, no problem.

First layout of the test 14" silent run fan we had on the shelf. Then ordered In the new 18 inch solid mount fan, installed it and it took care of the problem.

View attachment 1715990776

View attachment 1715990777
Ah, there it is, the least efficient fan in the entire thread. Riveted design is actually dangerous, there's a thread right on this board about one of those vanes parting ways with the engine running. *MUST READ*--Flex Fan Danger--Be very careful working on old cars

A properly set up electric fan system will beat the brakes off that hunk of junk. I actually took a fan very similar to that OFF of my car when I installed the Ford Contour electric fans I run now. The electrics are better hands down. Once the volume of air coming in through the grille exceeds the output of the fan, spinning the fan is just wasting horsepower. It's bad enough with a clutch system, but at least then you're not spinning the fan at 100% of the engine RPM the entire time.
 
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jrlegacy23

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72bluNblu, I am aware of that. I had my heater core removed and the line looped right back to the water pump inlet causing my issue.
 

CRUZE 418

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Uneven exhaust temps are normal, center cyls are always hotter on a small block with stock type cylinder heads. With the cooling issue, you have painted yourself into a corner with your modified cooling system. Some of the above responses are true, some are not. I would never have gone in the direction, or the way that you wanted your engine bay to look, but it's yours, I get it. Now you have found out how incompatible aftermarket parts can be. Your going to spend more money now. You wouldn't want to go with my route, you would be starting over.
Not unusual to blow a freeze plug out either.
Sorry, I can't help you.
Good luck
 

72bluNblu

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Uneven exhaust temps are normal, center cyls are always hotter on a small block with stock type cylinder heads. With the cooling issue, you have painted yourself into a corner with your modified cooling system. Some of the above responses are true, some are not. I would never have gone in the direction, or the way that you wanted your engine bay to look, but it's yours, I get it. Now you have found out how incompatible aftermarket parts can be. Your going to spend more money now. You wouldn't want to go with my route, you would be starting over.
Not unusual to blow a freeze plug out either.
Sorry, I can't help you.
Good luck

I haven't seen where he's listed what size radiator he has, but if he has a 26" radiator and at least 3.5" from the back of the radiator to his pulley's he can get out of this for around $160. Pretty sure the Holley Sniper set up he has will control the fans and he already has a way to send power to the electric fans.

Dorman 620-104 Dorman Electric Fans | Summit Racing

The '95-2000 Ford Contour set up is only about 3.5" deep at it's widest point, which is to the back of the motors. The rest of the shroud is about 3". With my 3 core Champion 26" radiator and the Contour fans the back of the fan motor is about 6" from the radiator support. I have a March serpentine pulley set up but I'm only running 3 pulleys so it may depends on where the motors sit with his pulleys.

img_5432-jpeg.jpg



img_5433-jpeg.jpg



img_5436-jpeg.jpg


img_1558_zps3b79216a-jpg-jpg.jpg


Now, if he has a 22" radiator then he could look for a Ford Taurus, Chevy HHR, or a Mercedes single fan set up. All of which can move enough air for his set up, the only question on some of them would be clearance based on where the back of the fan motor is. There are threads on FABO on all of those fans being used by other members.
 

72bluNblu

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Hey @saleenmav, are you actually going to post anything useful?

Or just disagree with a post that has pretty much nothing but factual information? Because the Contour fan set up I run has been working flawlessly for almost 8 years on my car, there's nothing really about that you can disagree with. And yeah, that includes stop and go traffic when it's 110° out.

I'm also not the only one on this board running it, @goldduster318 has been running a Contour fan set up for longer than I have, with a 340 that makes more power than mine too. Pretty sure there are others as well, it's a proven combination, even with a cheap Champion radiator.
 

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I wonder is the valves are adjustable? If too tight lash they open too soon and hot still burning gas will heat the headers cherry red. Raises the underhood temps ALOT.

What is your air cleaner system? Open to underhood air or sealed with a cold air pickup.

Piston ring gap too tight will put a lot of heat into the core when the gap ends butt.

My 65 B-Cuda with a 383 would over heat real bad. I tried different fans. Tried a bigger radiator.
The fix was a closed cop car aircleaner with two snorkels to pick up air from under the front valance.
 

Martin Koiryohann

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Hello guys I'm having an overheating issue. Little background info first. I was a master ASE tech for 30 years this one has me stumped. I have had this car at two separate shops also. Here are my engine specs for the cooling system. I have a champion 3 row radiator. March serp belt system, 180 deg t-stat, stock water pump, 2 12 inch electric cooling fans mounted diagonally, vintage air system, autometer pro comp ultralite gauge, also edelbrock aluminum rpm heads (6077). The engine has had a few different radiator caps. The current one is a stant 16lbs. Engine has less than 200 miles due to this issue. Forgot to mention this is an LA360.

First I will start with the shop experiences. First shop stated that my carb was running to rich and causing the overheat issue. I took it to another shop and they said the same thing and tried to work on the brand new out of the box holley carb. This just made it worse running. I went ahead and added a Holley sniper EFI set up on. What a difference in runability and power! Engine is still running hot. I have tried several different thermostats ranging from 160-195. 2 Different water pumps, 2 different electric fan setups. I had all the engine parts IE block and heads, crank ect checked at a local machine shop. Block was bored 30 over. Head gaskets have been tested chemically 3 times and all 3 times negative. The heads were not in the box but were new never used. But some small port work was done on them. This is why the machine shop checked them for me. One weird thing did happen. One of the freeze plugs on the left side of the engine blew out. Both times the engine was at a higher rev. I put a third plug in and it felt like it went in to easy so I JB welded it in. I know this method is not professional but aside from taking the engine out it was easier. No more issues with that plug. I should mention also that no oil or coolant appear to be mixing in the engine or radiator. I also had an oil analysis done and that turned out ok so far.

I decided today was the day to look deep into the issue. The starting coolant was 89f . I live in Florida. I went ahead and ran a suitable fan in front of the engine. The first temp check was gauge read 150f and my two infrared temp guns read 134F. At 180f both cooling fans came on and water was flowing well in the radiator. Next temp reading was 194f at the gauge and the gun read 184F. At this point I stuck in a thermometer directly in the coolant. I left the coolant thermometer in until 205F then I put the cap on. Temperature continued to rise on the gauge and on the gun until I shut the car down around 215F. I did notice that the exhaust temps engine running and engine off were all over the place. The two middle cylinders were as much as 100f difference than the end ones. This was true for both banks. The Left side was considerably hotter than the right side. To give you an example I have my MSD box mounted with an air flow gap under it on the inner fender well and it was 147f with the hood open. The master cylinder was 160F.

Not sure if the blowing out of the freeze plug was a sign. Bad Machine work?? EXhaust temps have me baffled as to why they are all over the place. I dont know if the engine block has some sort of flow issue. Heads issue?? I did order a cylinder leak down tester which will be my next task. I can watch the radiator for bubbles with it for head cracks ect. The car runs great accept to hot.
try a high flow thermostat
 

Col_Steve

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Reinventing the wheel isn't necessary. Chrysler Corp already figured it out for you! A stock A-body 22" 3 core radiator with the stock fan shroud and a 5 blade fan driven by a viscous clutch - use a Hayden 2765 if clearances are tight - will properly cool a HEMI, or a 440 with A/C with room to spare even for stroker versions. Pay for the OE parts once and cry once, and be done with it. I just can't wrap my head around being willing to choose to use FORD or GM electric fan parts on my MOPAR that will only introduce crippling electrical failure points, overstress the charging system, tax the wiring harnesses, and tear down the battery for exactly zero real gain in net HP just to be able to say you spent lots of $$$ on shiny aluminum pulleys that end up having as much or more rotating mass as the stock steel ones.
 

RustyRatRod

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Looking at his posted pictures, I don't think he has enough room for a clutch fan with that radiator. It looks pretty thick. It also appears the March setup mounts things closer to the radiator too and he's losing room there as well. At least it appears that way.
 

Bewy

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Post #59. The problem with those small fans is that they are [a] small only pull air through some of the rad core & [c] the fan shroud blocks a significant portion of the core, which will inhibit air flow, particularly when the car is moving. The fact that it might cool ok on that car does not mean that the fan[ s ] are doing a good job; what it means is the totality of the engine tuning, engine build & cooling system are keeping the engine cool. Coolant is a two-part process: cooling air + coolant. At idle & lower speeds, using a bigger rad can cover up for a poor flowing fan & a big high flowing fan can cover up for a too small rad.

The OPs engine may have an internal engine problem, such as tight pistons, rust scale on the cyl bores, causing excessive heat. Whatever.
Short of stripping the engine, the fix is more air, more coolant, more efficient coolant circulation &/or all of the above.
I read years ago on a cooling website [ info has now gone ] that their large, 7 blade clutch fan,
pulled 6000 cfm. Elec fans are not even close.
 

72bluNblu

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Reinventing the wheel isn't necessary. Chrysler Corp already figured it out for you! A stock A-body 22" 3 core radiator with the stock fan shroud and a 5 blade fan driven by a viscous clutch - use a Hayden 2765 if clearances are tight - will properly cool a HEMI, or a 440 with A/C with room to spare even for stroker versions. Pay for the OE parts once and cry once, and be done with it. I just can't wrap my head around being willing to choose to use FORD or GM electric fan parts on my MOPAR that will only introduce crippling electrical failure points, overstress the charging system, tax the wiring harnesses, and tear down the battery for exactly zero real gain in net HP just to be able to say you spent lots of $$$ on shiny aluminum pulleys that end up having as much or more rotating mass as the stock steel ones.
A stock hemi, a stock 440 with AC, etc. Stock. So, the highest engine rating on that was 425 hp.

My 340 makes that much. Hell goldduster318's 340 makes significantly MORE than that. There's a reason pretty much all modern cars run electric fans- they're more efficient. Spinning all that iron when you don't have to is just wasted power. If you've got a stock engine you just keep right on using whatever you want.
Looking at his posted pictures, I don't think he has enough room for a clutch fan with that radiator. It looks pretty thick. It also appears the March setup mounts things closer to the radiator too and he's losing room there as well. At least it appears that way.

I don't know about his march setup, I know the March serpentine pulley's on my car don't move anything closer to the radiator by any more than an 1/8" (probably less), the aluminum pulley is slightly thicker at the face where it bolts to the water pump. But it's not much.
Post #59. The problem with those small fans is that they are [a] small only pull air through some of the rad core & [c] the fan shroud blocks a significant portion of the core, which will inhibit air flow, particularly when the car is moving. The fact that it might cool ok on that car does not mean that the fan[ s ] are doing a good job; what it means is the totality of the engine tuning, engine build & cooling system are keeping the engine cool. Coolant is a two-part process: cooling air + coolant. At idle & lower speeds, using a bigger rad can cover up for a poor flowing fan & a big high flowing fan can cover up for a too small rad.

The OPs engine may have an internal engine problem, such as tight pistons, rust scale on the cyl bores, causing excessive heat. Whatever.
Short of stripping the engine, the fix is more air, more coolant, more efficient coolant circulation &/or all of the above.
I read years ago on a cooling website [ info has now gone ] that their large, 7 blade clutch fan,
pulled 6000 cfm. Elec fans are not even close.

The whole point of the shroud is that those fans DO pull air across the entire radiator core, just like a shroud for a mechanical fan. I've never had a temperature problem when the car is moving on the open road, so airflow when the car is moving is not an issue. It can be an issue with some those cookie sheet aftermarket shrouds, but they weren't designed for their job, they're just a flat plate to hold cheap fans. The Contour set up was designed to be used as it is constructed.

Yes, it is a cooling system, which I have been saying this whole time. All the components have to work together. The 26" 3 core radiator came on '74 up A-bodies with V8's and AC, I originally used a 26" radiator out of a '74 318 Dart with A/C to set the mounts for the 26" radiator I run. I also run the HD water pump, because my pulley ratio is 1:1 so it basically matches the .95:1 ratio that Ma Mopar used with the HD water pump.

As for the 6,000 cfm from the large 7 blade fan, that's 1. Higher than I've ever seen it advertised and 2. Not at idle RPM, which is the most important time.

And that's why electric fans are superior. They don't run at all when they're not needed, and their CFM output is not tied to engine RPM in any way. When I'm stuck at idle in traffic I can still pull 5,000 cfm, which a mechanical fan can not do. And once I'm doing 25+mph, I don't need the fans at all because the air coming through the front of the radiator is pushing more than 5,000 cfm and the fans shut down.

Regardless, even my iron headed, .060" over 340 pushing 400+ hp has never had an issue with my Contour electric fans. In over 8 years of running them I've almost entirely only needed the low speed (~3,500 cfm). The high speed (~5,000 cfm) has activated on only two occasions, both were when I was stuck in traffic when the ambient temp was 110°F or better. So yes, electric fans are perfectly capable of doing the job better than a mechanical fan as long as the fans are sized correctly for their output and controlled well.

The OP may in fact have other problems, but I can say unequivocally that his electric fans aren't pulling enough air. There may in fact be other issues, but until his fans move enough air he won't know.
 

Noel G

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Your fans are rotating in the correct direction ...... right?
Do this;
At idle and over 180*F
First check the temps of the water across the rad from where the coolant goes in to where it leaves, looking for about a 30 degree difference. If you get close to this; STOP! I'll bet you a box of dirty doghair that one of two things is wrong;
1) you have insufficient idle timing, (or waaay too much but that is near to impossible at Idle)
2) your rings are gapped too tight and or you need more skirt clearance.

As to #1,
if your timing is too retarded, the A/F mixture will not finish burning high enough up in the chamber, and will instead continue burning as the piston goes down. The blow-down heat now goes into the water jacket thru the cylinder walls, instead of out the exhaust system .
If you have headers; at idle,you should be seeing temps in the primaries of about 400*F +/- 50*, At 450, the mixture is still burning in the ports and head pipes, and heating up the heads now. At under 350, I'll guess she's running really rich.
So here is a test;
With the engine over 150, just advance the timing without regard to the numbers. As you add Idle-timing, the rpm will go up. Keep adding timing until the rpm no longer rises. If it goes over 1200rpm, put it back a bit. Now put a Timing-light on it and back it up 3 degrees. When the temp gets to 200, turn both fans on;
Now watch your temp gauges.
>Here's the deal, your engine, at idle, wants a ton of timing. By the rpm rising, she is telling you that she is making more Idle-Power. Since you did not adjust the AFR, this can only happen if more of the pressure produced by the expanding gasses, is being delivered to the crank at the optimum time, measured in crank-degrees.
Now, withe Idle Timing out of the way, and the rpm back to normal, the heat of combustion should be exiting at a normal temperature and your overheating issue should be gone.
Keep watching your temp gauges.
If the temp keeps rising, then Idle-Timing is NOT your problem.

Ok, so
With the fans on full-time, the coolant temp should drop back down to the thermostat setting. If it does not; check the following;
>the rotation of your two fans are both in the same direction, and
that the air is going in the right direction, from the front of the car to the engine side, and
>that the air is coming thru the rad, and
>is not able to shortcut back to the front side, and
>has an escape route under the car.
>That the lower hose is not sucked flat,
>That the thermostat is opening,
> that the coolant is circulating,

As to #2,
When all else fails to bring the issue to light;
you gotta consider that the engine itself may be creating internal friction, beyond the norm. That friction comes almost exclusively from the rings and skirts, with a portion added by the valve springs.
So go back to your build spec, and check those clearances. Then compare them to what the builders on FABO recommend, for the piston and ring types that you are using.

Happy HotRodding
Might sound stupid but along with the direction of rotation, are the blades configured (if reversible) for the desired direction? About 20years back a mate had a few years of a Ford overheating that no radiator shop could find. he loaned the car to me while the Val was off the road. long story short it overheated on me and I had some repairs to do. While putting it back together I noticed this little detail embossed on the fan hub/blade assy. (before disassembly it appeared to be pulling air through the radiator). reversed the blades, put it back together: no more overheating.

I know it sounds stupid but .....
 

George Jets

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Simple is good, can't argue with success:
(great for close fit serpentine applications too)


1664449030248.png
 

George Jets

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Want to make sure you are getting all the air out of the cooling system upon filling it up. The small blocks are difficult in this area.

If you are not getting a full 4 gallons of coolant into your system when first filling it, then there is air still in there creating hot spots that won't cool.

Here is a simple mod with the thermostat that lets the air out as you are filling.

Screenshot_20220430-164813_Gallery.jpg
 

mgoblue9798

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I don't know if any of these have been mentioned yet, but here goes.

Serpentine belt setup- is it turning the water pump backwards from normal? Magnum engine serpentine belt set up does is why I ask. Maybe this one does as well? If so, a flowcooler water pump that has a round disc covering the impeller blade could be the answer.

Also, if the distance between the impeller and the water pump housing is not right it can cause cavitation and cooling issues. This is becoming more common with the garbage stuff for some aftermarket parts. Disc on the impeller can help with this as well.

As far as the fans go, you should not need any fan of any kind to keep things cool at a constant 55mph on the highway. If yours is overheating at speed you have another issue than just the fans.

Fans could still be a problem in stop and go traffic though. As someone mentioned earlier a full shroud surrounding the fans and back side of the radiator is likely needed.

Is your aftermarket radiator a tight fit around the edges to the core support? If there are big air gaps around it air may not be flowing through the radiator and instead going around it. Some weatherstripping can correct it if so.

Hope this helps.
 

72bluNblu

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Might sound stupid but along with the direction of rotation, are the blades configured (if reversible) for the desired direction? About 20years back a mate had a few years of a Ford overheating that no radiator shop could find. he loaned the car to me while the Val was off the road. long story short it overheated on me and I had some repairs to do. While putting it back together I noticed this little detail embossed on the fan hub/blade assy. (before disassembly it appeared to be pulling air through the radiator). reversed the blades, put it back together: no more overheating.

I know it sounds stupid but .....

Not stupid, some electric fans are wired in such a way that simply reversing the polarity will reverse the fan direction. IMHO the OP's fans are inadequate regardless, but if they're pushing instead of pulling that would definitely be an issue
Simple is good, can't argue with success:
(great for close fit serpentine applications too)


View attachment 1715991750
Simple? Sure.

Efficient? Nope.

Potentially dangerous when the blade leaves the hub from all the flexing it does on those rivets? Yup.

Bicycles are simple too, but there's a lot of things you can't do with one.
 

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72blu, if you have not, please post a link to your Contour fan setup and wiring? Does it have its own temp switch?

Rockauto has 4 NEW aftermarket units between $103 and $126, plus shipping.
Discount code gives another $5.14 - $6.30 off too.
Code 215840809181478782 expires Nov 13,2022.


I just measured my new aluminum radiator for my LRT and it is 17.25 high by 25 wide just at the core so a Contour fan will fit fine. A little bit of weatherstriping and POOF. One is on order for me.

Wiring is never an issue for me, 42 years as a Sparkie.
 
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George Jets

1967 Dart 2 Door
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Silent Run non flex 18" fan. It cuts the air, instead of flexing with centrifugal force. That's why it's a Silent Run.

Solved the problem of crammed serpentine space, the problem of overheating, did not break the bank, and did not have to chop up the original mopar wiring.

Car owner is Happy, Happy, Happy and is enjoying the freedom of driving his classic without worry of overheating.

20220929_065526.jpg


1967 Coronet R/T 440 cu.in.
 

72bluNblu

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72blu, if you have not, please post a link to your Contour fan setup and wiring? Does it have its own temp switch?

Rockauto has 4 NEW aftermarket units between $103 and $126, plus shipping.
Discount code gives another $5.14 - $6.30 off too.
Code 215840809181478782 expires Nov 13,2022.


I just measured my new aluminum radiator for my LRT and it is 17.25 high by 25 wide just at the core so a Contour fan will fit fine. A little bit of weatherstriping and POOF. One is on order for me.

Wiring is never an issue for me, 42 years as a Sparkie.
My original install is here

My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

I run an autometer temperature sender in addition to the stock sender, the Dakota Digital controller I use is switched off of the autometer sending unit. My Dakota Digital controller was a 2750 that's linked in my original install, although I think they've been replaced with this one now
Dakota Digital PAC-2800BT Dakota Digital Electronic Fan Controllers with Bluetooth | Summit Racing
Because the Ford Contour fans are a dual speed, dual fan arrangement you'll need a second relay
Dakota Digital RLY-3 Dakota Digital Relays with Wiring Sockets | Summit Racing

The wiring is best shown my a PDF file that @goldduster318 made up, it should be attached below
 

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  • Electric Fan 26in Radiator.pdf
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