Paint removal - my low$ method

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The paint I have in the engine bay is old oem paint and a coat of black that was sprayed over and is chipping off., but gotta degrease it anyways!
 
The paint I have in the engine bay is old oem paint and a coat of black that was sprayed over and is chipping off., but gotta degrease it anyways!

It's worth a try no fumes to deal with wear eye protection.Skin protection maybe not a bad idea but I don't think it will eat you up
 
Ok I tried this with pretty good results.Sprayed on - covered with shrink wrap
used sharpened putty knife - did this after 14 hours.Recoated and recovered will
scrape again in 24 hours since the paint is soft the second step should clean up
most of the paint.Looks like it takes one bottle at $3 to do the top of the
trunk lid.I'll try a door or hood next but first I'll try roughing up the paint with some
40 grit to see if that helps any


Looks like you need to spray it on a little thicker and let it sit the full 24 hours.
 
Engine bay would be hard to seal up with the saran wrap but it should still work.
My buddy's pics came out crappy. too dark. I found a couple other ones..
before and after on a lock cylinder. (this part had a 12 hour sit time and 3 layers of paint) and he put this in a bowl, i prefer to wrap the part in saran wrap to almost eliminate all air in the mix to prevent drying out.
 

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It's worth a try no fumes to deal with wear eye protection.Skin protection maybe not a bad idea but I don't think it will eat you up


I agree, This stuff has no fumes, doesnt irritate the skin but i wouldnt want it in your eyes either.

Also, when it gets all of the paint off you may have little spots of primer stuck. they will be softened so if you hit them with a scotchbrite or steel wool they come right off.
 
Cool! There is a place near Atlanta called ecoclean. They soak your parts in some sort of chemical that is eco friendly to remove paint and rust. I bet there are similarities in the chemical make up.
 
Well I coated the trunk lid the second time and coverd with shrink wrap left for 24 hours.

Results

Took a lot of downward pressure so I bent a sharpened putty knife worked better than a flat knife

Spent an hour scraping and going over with a course scotch bright

It worked but not that well

Would I do it again NO - maybe on small parts but not a large area
 

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ehhhhh.....Ill stick to real paint stripper.

go to walmart and go to the dry wall puddy/paint/varnish/acetone...ect...ect... section and you can get a gallon of oaint stripper for like $8.00 (I think mine is in a yellow can ....I want to say the brand name is talstrip).

its light blue in color jelly like liquid.

the stuff stinks badly so I recommend having your garage door open and better yet having a fan on.....and it will sting when it touchs your skin so you need to wear rubber gloves.

but man oh man is it a much more convenient and faster method .

I didnt have to wait 24 hours or nothing.

in a matter of an hour or 2 the job was done. applied the stuff to my engine bay with a paint brush (wrinkles the paint in a matter of minutes) scrape it off, and apply a second coat and scrape it off and was basically done.

and yes using a heavy grit sand paper on the paint prior to applying a stripper will help in lifting the paint ALOT.


here is a couple of pictures from when I stripped my engine bay last year.
 

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is this talstrip a brush on application? for $8 and no wait, definately worth a try.
 
yup its brush on.

and takes roughly 10 minutes to lift the paint before you can scrape it away (scraps away easily by the way...not much effort required) ....however....I took 36 grit sand paper and scuffed areas of paint which creats cuts in the paint where the stripping solution can seep into and lift the paint faster......and it lifted the paint up in as little as a minute or 2.....the stuff is pretty cool.

you can get similar stuff in aresol cans but it costs about as much as a whole gallon and does not last very long.

the brush on gallon is the much better bang for the buck.

makes for quick work of the job.

like I said earlier....only real down fall is the odor and you have to be carefull not to get it on your skin because it instantly feelsl ike someone splashed you with icyhot cream lol
 
yup its brush on.

and takes roughly 10 minutes to lift the paint before you can scrape it away (scraps away easily by the way...not much effort required) ....however....I took 36 grit sand paper and scuffed areas of paint which creats cuts in the paint where the stripping solution can seep into and lift the paint faster......and it lifted the paint up in as little as a minute or 2.....the stuff is pretty cool.

you can get similar stuff in aresol cans but it costs about as much as a whole gallon and does not last very long.

the brush on gallon is the much better bang for the buck.

makes for quick work of the job.

like I said earlier....only real down fall is the odor and you have to be carefull not to get it on your skin because it instantly feelsl ike someone splashed you with icyhot cream lol


and if you don't properly neutralize it...... seen plenty of customer cars that didn't end up so well over time. The proper way is to media blast, gets stuff nice and clean without worrying about stuff getting in the cracks and dissolving the spot welds or having the paint bubble up. The only real down side to blasting parts is it has to be line of sight.
 
aslong as you are smart about it and don't pour tons of the stripper on, it wont gob up in nooks and crannies.

I used a solution of soapy water to neutralize it and then wiped the whole thing down with wax and grease remover,then smoothed everything off,primed and painted. paint is still holding up like new....no bubbles,no rust or nothing...over a year later,I have done multiple cars like this ..all with good results.

I can understand what you are talking about though how it could ruin paint work if not properly done......but that is more of a fault of whoever is doing the work...not the product itself.....you just have to make sure to take your time and do as the instructions say.

not saying blasting isnt a better method because it is.....but I didnt have access to a blaster,didnt want to deal with the dust,didnt want to be sweeping sand up from everywhere and getting all the sand out from all the cracks and crevices....so I choice to do the stripping method.

either way you go though....your going to make a mess lol.
 
Wear a mask a really really good gloves, If you breath this stuff or let it get into your skin it will kill you. eventually.
 
ehhhhh.....Ill stick to real paint stripper.

go to walmart and go to the dry wall puddy/paint/varnish/acetone...ect...ect... section and you can get a gallon of oaint stripper for like $8.00 (I think mine is in a yellow can ....I want to say the brand name is talstrip).

its light blue in color jelly like liquid.

the stuff stinks badly so I recommend having your garage door open and better yet having a fan on.....and it will sting when it touchs your skin so you need to wear rubber gloves.

but man oh man is it a much more convenient and faster method .

I didnt have to wait 24 hours or nothing.

in a matter of an hour or 2 the job was done. applied the stuff to my engine bay with a paint brush (wrinkles the paint in a matter of minutes) scrape it off, and apply a second coat and scrape it off and was basically done.

and yes using a heavy grit sand paper on the paint prior to applying a stripper will help in lifting the paint ALOT.


here is a couple of pictures from when I stripped my engine bay last year.

How long ago did you buy this made a trip to wally world this morning no such thing
 
How long ago did you buy this made a trip to wally world this morning no such thing

Last time I bought some was last december. Last time I seen it on the ahelfwas last week though. So I know they carry it. Like I mentioned earlier I'm not sure on what the brandname was but its in a rectangle metal gallon can andia yellow and black in color and the liquid itself is like a light blue. Maybe you were looking in the wrong area. Its back in the sand paper, dry wall compund, caulk, varnish, paint thinner ect.... area.
 
Can you post up a pic of the bottle so we know what we are looking for?
 
oh haha!! yes awesome is for a grease remover!!! dunno what i was thinking, but there you go. for a great cheap grease remover, use awesome!

-james

You should try that same brand of carpet cleaner!
OMG, it works so good you won't believe it. Totally awesome for a buck a bottle. Just did a hole caravan and the seats and carpets looked great. Went from brown (dirt/stains) to bright clean gray, which was the color from the factory!!
They both are my new secret supplies that I use all the time for detailing flipper cars and my keepers!
 
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