Pitman arm is hitting tortion bar! Help?

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Crap now im gonna have to wait a while to put it all back together..

Might want to look for some good used Dougs or TTI's.

Have you considered 340/360 cast iron manifolds. They are the most street friendly and worry free.

For a 73/74 left casting (like 68-70 but with heat stove) and 68-70 passenger casting I'd think about $250-300.

What's the cam, intake, heads, and carb in your 360 current motor? Might not be something that you are getting a big gain by running headers?
 
Might want to look for some good used Dougs or TTI's.

Have you considered 340/360 cast iron manifolds. They are the most street friendly and worry free.

For a 73/74 left casting (like 68-70 but with heat stove) and 68-70 passenger casting I'd think about $250-300.

What's the cam, intake, heads, and carb in your 360 current motor? Might not be something that you are getting a big gain by running headers?

Its a 340 motor...bored .30 over. pro comp cam..j heads with bigger ports..flat head pistons. I think im going to call Schumacher monday and see when exactly those headers are going to be done because they would work perfectly.
 
Its a 340 motor...bored .30 over. pro comp cam..j heads with bigger ports..flat head pistons. I think im going to call Schumacher monday and see when exactly those headers are going to be done because they would work perfectly.
Give them a call and since they are still in testing offer to "test" a set.they may be interested with your engine setup.Couldn't hurt.
 
I was thinking an exhaust manifold set something like the Ebay one below.

This is GD Musclecars out of Florida and they have a bad reputation and their stuff is overpriced. So this $325 is high water mark. I'd think you could do much better. $250 maybe even lower if you shop.

Do not buy these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/72-7...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e97f4d9b

Im going to call Schumacher on monday to see when the small block headers will be done or if maybe i can text a pair on my car..if not i will have to go with some manifolds..
 
What about 360 truck manifolds? Any chance they'll fit? I have a set you could have real cheap..
 
Just read this, so bear with me. Going way back to a pic of the pitman; Wrong nut, and why isn't it seated in the draglink? I only remember the idler needing the foam washer. And it's hard to tell from the pic, but the top of the drag hole looks strange.

The box to frame should be 12 star? and torqued hard; info somewhere. Have a 70 a-body; only replaced the idler, that took 3 tries until correct one was found. On a 69 b body, we just replaced box and pitman, guess we were lucky on long/short sector; only problem is pass tie rod hitting header-shim engine up.

I have been playing with mopars for 30 years, and haven't seen that problem.
 
They look awsome and like they will tuck away nicely but at that price I could pay me an hourly rate for the hassle of other headers.But to each his own.

I tend to agree. Nuffin wrong with 119 buck Summit headers.
 
... The box to frame should be 12 star? and torqued hard; info somewhere. Have a 70 a-body; only replaced the idler, that took 3 tries until correct one was found. On a 69 b body, we just replaced box and pitman, guess we were lucky on long/short sector; only problem is pass tie rod hitting header-shim engine up.

I have been playing with mopars for 30 years, and haven't seen that problem.

Later model RWD car and vans have a 6 point nut to hold the steering box in.
 
Hard to tell, but those steering box bolts look like nuts welded to allthread, Hopefully they were`nt bottoming on something before the box was truely tightend down.
Sux your going through this,hope you getter licked.:thumrigh:
 
Hard to tell, but those steering box bolts look like nuts welded to allthread, Hopefully they were`nt bottoming on something before the box was truely tightend down.
Sux your going through this,hope you getter licked.:thumrigh:

Thanks..im kinda stuck right now..not sure what i should do.
 
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