remote oil filter fittings tapped right into the block UPDATE in post 58 and the whole idea got 86ed

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diymirage said:
you are probably right, but I can NOT think of anything else that could cause this leak, so by building the remote filter setup like this, at least I can eliminate the machined sealing surface

for the center I was thinking of using the plug you would use to install the stock filter plate, with one of these attached

Aluminum F5 flare 3/4”-16UNF (Flare nut) to 1/2” barbed hose fitting
Click to expand...

That fitting will screw onto the 3/4-16 fitting you have now, but it won't seal on it, because it is designed to go onto an AN fitting. Also, I would never trust any barbed hoses for something as crucial as motor oil. If you must do this, do it up right with real AN hose and fittings.
 
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69_340_GTS said:
I would never trust any barbed hoses for something as crucial as motor oil. If you must do this, do it up right with real AN hose and fittings.
Click to expand...
Well, now hold the phone..... It depends on the barbs AND the hose used. I have used certain reinforced hoses and barbed fittings from NAPA for over 20 years for oil cooler and remote filter lines. If you get the right ones, they are heck to put on, and never come apart. I promise, you can tow a tank with it and it just might rip the threads out of the fittings before the hoses come off. I have puts thousands of rally race miles on this stuff and the recent 340 remote oil filter mounts was done with these.

Now, I don't know if the fittings pictured are right or as some sort of knock-offs. Being Aluminum, no, I would not trust them really. All I have used are brass. And I don't know what hose diymirage is planning to use. I know what I am getting at NAPA.

I have a section of that hose but the printing is unreadable. I'll see if I can find some data. You used to be able to get it with steel braid reinforcement too. That hose can be used to tow cruisers or battleships rather than just tanks.... LOL
 
diymirage said:
you are probably right, but I can NOT think of anything else that could cause this leak, so by building the remote filter setup like this, at least I can eliminate the machined sealing surface

for the center I was thinking of using the plug you would use to install the stock filter plate, with one of these attached

Aluminum F5 flare 3/4”-16UNF (Flare nut) to 1/2” barbed hose fitting
Click to expand...
Do yourself a favor and don't buy these AL ones... go to NAPA and get the brass equivalents, and the reinforced push-on oil hose to go with it.
 
nm9stheham said:
Well, now hold the phone..... It depends on the barbs AND the hose used. I have used certain reinforced hoses and barbed fittings from NAPA for over 20 years for oil cooler and remote filter lines. If you get the right ones, they are heck to put on, and never come apart. I promise, you can tow a tank with it and it just might rip the threads out of the fittings before the hoses come off. I have puts thousands of rally race miles on this stuff and the recent 340 remote oil filter mounts was done with these.

Now, I don't know if the fittings pictured are right or as some sort of knock-offs. Being Aluminum, no, I would not trust them really. All I have used are brass. And I don't know what hose diymirage is planning to use. I know what I am getting at NAPA.

I have a section of that hose but the printing is unreadable. I'll see if I can find some data. You used to be able to get it with steel braid reinforcement too. That hose can be used to tow cruisers or battleships rather than just tanks.... LOL
Click to expand...

I know there is a lot of new stuff on the market that's easier to assemble, etc... I like the old style. Just me I guess...
 
diymirage said:
you are probably right, but I can NOT think of anything else that could cause this leak, so by building the remote filter setup like this, at least I can eliminate the machined sealing surface
Click to expand...
IF it's cracked anywhere inside (under) the 710 plate putting a remote filter ain't gonna solve the problem. And it'll be a lot of effort for nothing. I would positively identify where the leak is from FIRST. I have a feeling the original plate wasn't installed right the first time. Just my two cents.
 
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Are you shure it is at the oil plate? I had a leak and had to unbolt the headers to get at the remote pipes but after many attempts I suddenly found out it was the valve covers leaking and running down the back of the block and dripping off the oil lines. The alloy covers hit on the inlet manifold ports and need to be clearanced!
 
ill double check the valve cover Jimbo
i machined the covers and touched up the manifold before i installed it all

but yes, i am certain it is coming from behind/around the oil filter plate



thanks for all the input guys
 
DARTH V8R said:
IF it's cracked anywhere inside (under) the 710 plate putting a remote filter ain't gonna solve the problem. And it'll be a lot of effort for nothing. I would positively identify where the leak is from FIRST. I have a feeling the original plate wasn't installed right the first time. Just my two cents.
Click to expand...
I tend to agree. If it's cracked allowing oil to leak out around the filter plate it'll most likely leak even when plumbed with fittings. You really need to positively determine where it's coming from
 
BTW: just for conversation sake, I have also used barb fittings for oil lines like NM9ST said and if their good quality fittings they'll work fine. The only issue I see is once you put the line on the only way to get it back off is to cut it off. I got the idea of using them from when I worked as a forklift mechanic. You see them on forklifts and if that ain't severe duty not much is. Most forklift drivers drive them like their running in the Indy 500
 
Just something else to check:
I had the exact same symptoms on my engine recently. Oil filter was wet, above it was dry. I changed filters 3 times, changed oil pan gasket twice, checked around oil press. sender, valve covers-all dry. It turned out to be a leaking rear main seal. The flywheel was throwing the oil right onto the filter. Just food for thought if you're running a 4spd.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Just something else to check:
I had the exact same symptoms on my engine recently. Oil filter was wet, above it was dry. I changed filters 3 times, changed oil pan gasket twice, checked around oil press. sender, valve covers-all dry. It turned out to be a leaking rear main seal. The flywheel was throwing the oil right onto the filter. Just food for thought if you're running a 4spd.
Click to expand...
It's a 727
But...I may be on to some thing
I'll check back in a few hours
 
i did not read through the complete other thread nor this one so please forgive me if its been covered.

I had a similar issue with my car and i wracked my brain and did many of the things you have done. and at the end of the day it was the oil filter and it was bottoming out before the thing could seal. it turned out the crappy filter gasket was so thin it did not allow it to seal before the filter bottomed out to the motor
 
1970-dart said:
i did not read through the complete other thread nor this one so please forgive me if its been covered.

I had a similar issue with my car and i wracked my brain and did many of the things you have done. and at the end of the day it was the oil filter and it was bottoming out before the thing could seal. it turned out the crappy filter gasket was so thin it did not allow it to seal before the filter bottomed out to the motor
Click to expand...
Interesting. Do you remember the filter brand and model? And was the hollow center bolt on the adapter a stock one or an aftermarket piece.?
 
oil leak figured out


baldwin.

i put a new filter on and bingo the leak went away. It still smoked cause of rings and or other **** but at least it was out the tailpipes and not on the header and right back in the car
 
allright, time to 86 this idea...here's a real tickler for you
I haven been going over and over this oil leak in my mind and I remembered something
about the same time the oil filter started leaking I did some maintenance, plugs, oil change, nothing too fancy
however, I remembered I had swapped to valve covers, because the oil filler cap was on the back side of the driverside valve cover
so, I swapped them over so the oil filler cap ended up on the front end of the passenger side cover

I used new gaskets when I did this, and during my efforts to eliminate the oil leak I replaced the oil filter gaskets at least once

so, figuring a hail mary, I decided to swap the valve cover gaskets back to their original position

this was on Friday

sure enough, my oil leak changed position and the oil filter has remained dry

my nex step will be new valve cover gaskets, but the whole remote oil filter set-up will be 86ed
 
Where is that 'slap my forehead' emoticon? This will have to do LOL:drama:

Well, at least that is solved....
 
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