Shopping for a dart and want to swap in a big block...got some questions.

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MADMarc

MADMarc

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I have been trying to figure out all of the details for doing a swap from a /6 to a big block. I am looking for a car w/front discs, but what needs done to the suspension to handle the extra weight? Can I at least drive the car and upgrade the suspension when I am ready? Will the schumacher mounts be adequate enough for the BB? Reason I ask that is because I hear a lot about people doing swaps up front instead of, or in addition to, going with the schumacher stuff.

I'm looking forward to the challenge and thanks in advance for your input! :)
 
If you're looking for a big block Dart, good luck. The magic years are 67-69 inclusive. Of the factory installed 383s, according to Govier's records, there were 457 built in 67 and 2106 in 68. Not included in these totals were 48 that were factory built for Mr. Norm's that had 440s. Also not included in the count are 80 S/S Hemi cars built by Hurst in 68. Sorry, I have no data for 69. Not known are the numbers of each year that survive in the hands of collectors. The point is that the number of BB cars to find is extremely small. Pricing will be commensurately higher than a non-BB car.

If you find any of these cars with disc brakes, bear in mind they will be the SBP Kelsey-Hayes units, unless they have been converted to BBP floating caliper brake. There's nothing wrong with the KH brake, but the SBP is going to limit the choice of aftermarket wheels and tires.

If I were to put a BB in an A-body, I'd try to find a genuine BB A-body and check out the underside for reinforcements to the K-member and the presence of torque boxes on the chassis. Then I'd duplicate those on my car.

Mopar Performance lists a .890 diameter torsion bar for the BB A-body. Most around here seem to be running .990 and larger. I run a 1" on a small block and think it's fine.
 
Many ways to get there. The tech pages that Joe pointed you to are the best place to start. I've never used Schumacher mounts, but most people have had no trouble with them and their customer service is reported to be good. I would do the suspension FIRST, then the big block conversion unless you have enough parts/money to do them at the same time...
 
Thanks a bunch, guys. Checking out the tech articles now. No way could I get an actual BB dart, and nice idea about finding one to compare to, but I don't think the chances of that are very high :/.
 
MADMarc said:
Thanks a bunch, guys. Checking out the tech articles now. No way could I get an actual BB dart, and nice idea about finding one to compare to, but I don't think the chances of that are very high :/.
Click to expand...

You may not be able to see it personally, but asking here on FABO for info and/or photos from someone who has a factory BB might be a start. It won't cost you anything. The worst that can happen is that your request will be ignored. ;-)
 
The easiest way to do it is to find a '73-up dart and do that one. If you're not partial to a particular year. They use the larger bolt pattern, usually have disc brakes. Any of the "good parts ( 8 3/4 or Dana, etc) bolt in too. Schumachers are fine and will take anything you can throw at them. No, you don;t nede to upgrade anything in the suspension but you should tie the front and rear subframes together (welded - not bolted).
 
67 has an expensive one year only idler arm and maybe K (where it mount?), everything else is the same chassis wise. just an FYI. Might get away with stock cheapo headers with a little clearancing, but bigblockdart is the bible on this. and get some beefy torsion bars, like >1.00. Even the stock BB dart bars are considered soft today.
 
moper said:
The easiest way to do it is to find a '73-up dart and do that one. If you're not partial to a particular year. They use the larger bolt pattern, usually have disc brakes. .
Click to expand...

If my 73 is any example, all drum brake A-bodies used SBP hubs. Disk brake cars from 73 on used BBP hubs. That said, all 73 & > used the larger upper ball joint.
 
It is an easy swap. I have done this a few times. I have a 440 in my Scamp. I run the schumacher mounts and there headers. My best time so far down the track is 11.70s. So they hold up pretty good. PM me if you have any questions>
 

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i have a 70dart with a B1MC in it(first car i ever bought-34 years now)i ran the 75 dart frt brakes for 15 years with 318 tor bars-no problems-car has been 8.90s@152 with that and i have driven it on the street for many years,i run "elephant ears" mounts.
 
Very awesome. I have been eyeballing those schumacher headers, too. Has anybody been able to prove a significant difference in performance between the two? I have a 440 block that I will be building from the ground up. That being said, it's looking like I will be going to a 500 stroker considering the cost of just going to a higher compression 440 is close to the price of stroking. Mmm, I cant wait to get this project rolling. My biggest things when looking for a new car are that it needs to have a straight body and front disc brakes...the remainder seems to be in the wind. I would prefer a manual car out of the gate, but I can always convert over when I am ready :)

EDIT: And scrumptious engine bay you've got there :)
 
If you want a 3-4 speed manual car expect to pay $3-500 more for Schumacher headers that have been modified for a 4 speed.
 
Ah crap, that didn'teven occur to me regarding fitment. Same issue with the tti's?
 
Hey bud. Just so happens I have a 70 dart for sale w/disk in the front. Fenders and doors are good but it would need 1/4's. Alot of guys think it's really hard to drop in a RB but it's not. There are many places to get thigs to do the job and alot of help as well. I'm doing a new one now. Big fun for sure !! get back to me if you like
Thanks
Wizard
 
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