Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
I do not trust springs without a BOM with the heads
they do no last
might as well run 50s springs
they do no last
might as well run 50s springs
SPEEDMASTER ALUMINUM HEADS
- Thread starter cawley
- Start date
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BOM?
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
bill of materials parts list, nation of origin info
thanks for asking
I should have spelled it out
how you doing?
thanks for asking
I should have spelled it out
how you doing?
You are very much against buying things out of the Country, and I like that. But look at the other side of matters. I’ve bought well over 10 sets of Edelbrock heads over the years and can tell you their quality control has gone down (price has gone up) and Speedmaster (Procomp) has gotten better. It’s pretty bad when you can buy a set of ProMaxx heads or Speedmaster heads and they flow better than a way higher priced Edelbrock head. They may be made in America but they must be using Mexicans to run the tooling. Same goes for Crapsmen tools (ratchet and sockets) and I’m talking years ago. They suck in comparison to Harbor Freight so you better look around your house before you call the kettle black. Check out the shirt on your back for beginners.
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Oh I agree
I have all sorts of Chinese products some have quality issues some dont.
But I have a new attitude toward China.
I will guarantee you that I will do my best to no longer support companies that promote Chinese products. I may have to pay more or go with out.
It is not going to be easy but we have to start somewhere/time.
Thanks for your response.
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Doin OK Wyrmrider, could always be better.
I’ll PM ya later.
Truth is truth, tell it like it is and what you said is fact.
I don’t care where it comes from or what the cost is generally. Best product gets my cash. If Edelbrock wants my money, they need to step up there game. I’d like to say m stuff is made in my country. But if it’s crap, then there is nothing to be proud of and no reason to be proud of owning a crap part costing 2X’s the price to get it to work and still get, under perform.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
i agree, i can't believe the whole world hasn't put/increased tariffs on chinese products to make them pay towards the way they've fu**ed the world with their virus!
i feel better now,lol.
Believe me that’s how most of the world feels. They bought up everything they wanted and now we are almost powerless. They got all the materials and companies they will need for many years. For those of us that haven’t went thru a depression yet will get the chance to go thru it. Kim
pishta
I know I'm right....
You tariff the Chinese goods and they will just lower the price to undercut the next guy. you think a $50 drill press can be made in USA? Slap another 30% tarrif on that and now you got a $65 drill press that they can discount back to $60. Remember the labor over there is next to slave wages and some are Government work houses for political dissidents and low risk work release. They can afford to undercut anyone charging a living wage anywhere else. It will be a government backed boycott before people will stop buying cheaper Chinese products. C'mon, a $50 drill press is pretty handy........Elon Musk is leaving California because they are making it impossible for him to manufacture cars here,and CA lawmakers are mad at him? That's USA in a nutshell when it comes to heavy manufacturing...NIMBY....Not in my back yard!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
It's not the virus
small potatoes
it's the partculates
small potatoes
it's the partculates
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
Meanwhile, on the original subject of Speedmaster heads (mine are for BB but I would expect similar from a SB head), I got a deal on a bare pair ($502 shipped), and sent them to Dwayne Porter for a little massaging (his Stage 1, clean up the valve job, blend the guides).
OOTB with Ede. valves
Lift——-in/ex
.100— 67.5/53.5
.200—137.2/101.2
.300—202.8/138.3
.400—241.2/160.3
.500—256.1/171.2
.550—262.5/174.4
.600—269.2/176.9
.650—269.2/178.1
.700—269.2/179.3
After:
Lift—— in/ex
.100—- 72.5/62.7
.200— 148.8/105.4
.300— 217.6/143.9
.400— 261.8/171.5
.500— 286.1/190.5
.550— 290.5/197.8
.600— 292.4/203.7
.650— 293.5/208.6
.700— 294.3/212.2
OOTB with Ede. valves
Lift——-in/ex
.100— 67.5/53.5
.200—137.2/101.2
.300—202.8/138.3
.400—241.2/160.3
.500—256.1/171.2
.550—262.5/174.4
.600—269.2/176.9
.650—269.2/178.1
.700—269.2/179.3
After:
Lift—— in/ex
.100—- 72.5/62.7
.200— 148.8/105.4
.300— 217.6/143.9
.400— 261.8/171.5
.500— 286.1/190.5
.550— 290.5/197.8
.600— 292.4/203.7
.650— 293.5/208.6
.700— 294.3/212.2
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
so no good reason to go 550 on the intake
now the exhaust
now the exhaust
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
The exhaust is the second number in each column (note the heading "in/ex") 
I don't know how the SB heads flow... I just meant that the improvement from a bowl blend/port match would probably be similar.
Unless you run one of those square-lobed "cheater"-type cams which beat the crap out of the valvetrain, a cam with lift over .550 would definitely be useful because it holds the valve open longer (e.g. at least .550) while decelerating to go over the nose and start closing.
I don't know how the SB heads flow... I just meant that the improvement from a bowl blend/port match would probably be similar.
Unless you run one of those square-lobed "cheater"-type cams which beat the crap out of the valvetrain, a cam with lift over .550 would definitely be useful because it holds the valve open longer (e.g. at least .550) while decelerating to go over the nose and start closing.
Depends on the goal now don’t it?!?!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
you can still use a fatter nose , roll the nose over, aka "dwell nose" without going square nose
Howard tends to chase max lift, there are other ways at the same .200
much easier on the spring and you do not need roller rockers and B3 fix
If you do go roller rockers some work better with different heads
consider 1.6 or 1.65
Howard tends to chase max lift, there are other ways at the same .200
much easier on the spring and you do not need roller rockers and B3 fix
If you do go roller rockers some work better with different heads
consider 1.6 or 1.65
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John Jones
New Member
Garbage Heads. I bought a pair of Speedmaster PCE281.2143 heads from Procomp for almost $1800. I mounted them on my 68 Charger 440. I start the Charger, it Idles for 5-7 mins and all of a sudden there is a huge thick smoke stack rising from the right side at the back of the 440 and there was eng oil all over the header. I thought maybe bad valve cover gasket. Changed gasket, put silicone on both sides of gasket still same problem. Set my phone inside the fender wall close to the oil on the header and had it record. I stared the Charger let it run for couple mins and thick smoke . I'm watching what was recorded and I see a thin stream of engine oil shooting out of the cylinder head just below the valve cover. I pull the head off and very carefully go through it with a magnifying glass and I found hairline cracks all over the head and number 2 cylinder looked like it just started filling with engine oil. This is with 10-15 mins of the 440 running with the new heads. This Heads must have been manufactured in China, I guarantee it. There nothing but chinese made trash that I wasted $1800 on. I had once bought a vice on E-bay from china, I tried to straighten a 1/2 inch bolt on the vice as I apply pressure and the vice bust's in half, I lost $80. We nuked Japan its time to nuke china !!!
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plymouth1937
Well-Known Member
Hi i ran 9.7 whid a 408 sb in a 3600 lbs duster std front axel leafts in the back all steal Indy cnc heads air gap intake fast fuel inj e85 727 protrans realy Nice ride
Possibly the head got dropped somewhere along the line. This is the first I ever heard of that. It’s man made so anything can and does happen. I’m sure Speed master would of helped u out. Kim
John Jones
New Member
Now I'm debating if I should change the left side head to. The 440 or stroked 572 has ran for like 15 - 20 mins max and the left side head seems to be ok so far. My concern is what if I'm driving and the Head decides to fall apart on me. On the other side I'll need to put out between $1500 to $1800 to get the 2nd head that has intake flow between 280cc and 325cc and I'll have to wait a couple of months to do that. I started bringing my 68 Charger to life in 2016 after it sat in the same spot for over 25 years. Invested a whole lot of time and money into it and have it come out with this bullshit. ----PISSED---
I would pull them both and have them checked. Not that it does any good after the fact but pretty much everybody has their "out of the box heads" checked before installing them. Maybe the crack would have been caught and maybe not.
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j par
Well-hung Member
It does say it right there in the instructions when you get them that they need to be checked..
It can be hard to spot a crack on an aluminum head. It may not appear until under the pressures of being torqued down. Even then.....
Archeryguy02
Well-Known Member
I have a set that have run 11.80 short shifting at 5k on my stock bottom end with forged pistons 360 and I am real happy with them for the most part. I had my engine builder put good components in bare castings as well as assemble the motor.
My head gasket recently let so I had to pull the heads off, and I noticed some of the intake manifold bolt holes were messed up so I chased the threads. I was putting the motor back together and it was pain in the *** getting the manifold back on. The bolt holes are not perpendicular to the mounting surface they are pointed up 5-10°. If I have to take it off again I may need to open up the holes on the manifold and chase out some more threads because as tight as these went in they are likely boogered up again.
Has anyone else had difficulty mounting the intake on the Speedmaster heads.
Please don't make this your reply about where the heads were made, just trying to get info and raise awareness for a real problem beyond where the heads were cast.
My head gasket recently let so I had to pull the heads off, and I noticed some of the intake manifold bolt holes were messed up so I chased the threads. I was putting the motor back together and it was pain in the *** getting the manifold back on. The bolt holes are not perpendicular to the mounting surface they are pointed up 5-10°. If I have to take it off again I may need to open up the holes on the manifold and chase out some more threads because as tight as these went in they are likely boogered up again.
Has anyone else had difficulty mounting the intake on the Speedmaster heads.
Please don't make this your reply about where the heads were made, just trying to get info and raise awareness for a real problem beyond where the heads were cast.
I’ve used a few sets of speedmasters. Bolt holes were good with a stock intake. I had to have the LD 340 milled to get the angles correct. The bolt holes were way off compared to the Speedmasters. Intake was fine on the stock heads. Kim
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