SS Slant Six Dart

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regardless of mounts there's movement and pleanty of vibration there. That little pinch makes a 3/8 fuel line flow like a 1/8" line. You've do better to have a straight peice of steel line to the fenderwell, then a 90° in it, so the rubbr is a straight shot to the carb line. Anything's better than what you have there...
 
Straight shot is best..... Even if you get more hose a just loop it its better than a 90* bend.
Just food for thought..... 90* bends are equivalent to 3 extra feet of line.
 
moper said:
regardless of mounts there's movement and pleanty of vibration there. That little pinch makes a 3/8 fuel line flow like a 1/8" line. You've do better to have a straight peice of steel line to the fenderwell, then a 90° in it, so the rubbr is a straight shot to the carb line. Anything's better than what you have there...
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That setup wouldn,t pass tech up here.If you ever threw the alt belt,you,d have lots of gas pumping everywhere.Maybe move your regulator back 12 inches.Just sayin...Good luck.:D
 
As mentioned,the pinched rubber fuel line is no good, and worse than that,is your steel fuel line with the 2 90deg bends. That's killing you. Back the reg up,and come straight across to the carb with your line.
 
moper said:
regardless of mounts there's movement and pleanty of vibration there. That little pinch makes a 3/8 fuel line flow like a 1/8" line. You've do better to have a straight peice of steel line to the fenderwell, then a 90° in it, so the rubbr is a straight shot to the carb line. Anything's better than what you have there...
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yea i was thinking about making that 90* with steel...

pettybludart said:
That setup wouldn,t pass tech up here.If you ever threw the alt belt,you,d have lots of gas pumping everywhere.Maybe move your regulator back 12 inches.Just sayin...Good luck.:D
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ive always been taught to have the reg in front of the carb on the Rad support... but yea i dont really like that rubber line there either...

Johnny Dart said:
As mentioned,the pinched rubber fuel line is no good, and worse than that,is your steel fuel line with the 2 90deg bends. That's killing you. Back the reg up,and come straight across to the carb with your line.
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the 90's arn't hurting anything... besides there both to the back or parallel...
 
805moparkid said:
the 90's arn't hurting anything... besides there both to the back or parallel...
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Wrong......Your fuel line with the 90's are impeding your fuel flow. That's fact not fiction. Do some research on fuel lines. 90 degree turns should be avoided at all costs. 90degs give the most fluid friction and therefore are more restrictive than straight through.

Just trying to help you.......
 
Johnny Dart said:
Wrong......Your fuel line with the 90's are impeding your fuel flow. That's fact not fiction. Do some research on fuel lines. 90 degree turns should be avoided at all costs. 90degs give the most fluid friction and therefore are more restrictive than straight through.

Just trying to help you.......
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interesting...
 
Johnny's right. Same theory...or fact regarding exhaust. That's why mandrel bends and as few bends as possible are best. Liquid and gasses have many of the same properties.
 
Your car's not accelerating hard enough for the regulator placement to be critical.....in fact, there probably aren't many cars on this forum that do. What I am going to do with mine, I would recommend you copy. I plan to come into the engine compartment straight up the corner where the inner fender meets the firewall on the passenger's side with my fuel line. Then turn a large radius 90 and run horizontally across the firewall and come from behind across to the carburetor with the regulator on a bracket close to the carburetor. That way, you can run a 3" piece of fuel hose running parallel with the intake manifold to make up for engine movement with no kink whatsoever. If you look at modern cars, that's how the fuel lines run.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Your car's not accelerating hard enough for the regulator placement to be critical.....in fact, there probably aren't many cars on this forum that do. What I am going to do with mine, I would recommend you copy. I plan to come into the engine compartment straight up the corner where the inner fender meets the firewall on the passenger's side with my fuel line. Then turn a large radius 90 and run horizontally across the firewall and come from behind across to the carburetor with the regulator on a bracket close to the carburetor. That way, you can run a 3" piece of fuel hose running parallel with the intake manifold to make up for engine movement with no kink whatsoever. If you look at modern cars, that's how the fuel lines run.
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Don't wanna sound like I'm highjacking the thread----but per NHRA you can't have any lines running along the firewall that could be damaged in the event of a clutch/converter explosion. This deals primarilt with brakelines as NHRA doesn't want the car unstoppable should something occur but the same could be said about fuel lines. Now I know someone's gonna say: "Dart brakelines run along the firewall from the factory!" and yes, I know that, but STRICTLY speaking they're technically illegal although many tracks allow it as it IS the stock location & that's what many tech guys accept. As to the fuel lines running by or near that same area---NHRA requires that they too must be shieldedwithin (I think) 12ins. of the flywheel area, so they're not being inconsistent in their requirements. My car has the brakelines running along the K-member instead of the firewall & I've never beeen "called out" on it.
As to the original fuel issue---just my .02, but I'd run it past the carb, along the framerailwith the reg up on the inner fender panel, a slight rise in the fuel line to the reg, then as straight an inlet to the carbfrom the reg as possible using smoothbore teflon/braided steel line. It expands far less under pressure, is smoother, withstands more heat, lasts longer and will therefore provide more consistent fuel pressure.......
 
so ed, if you kicked up the psi on the fuel to compensate for the bends...and had a gauge at the carb to tell u what psi the carb really see's at rpm....that be really nice, ya know? lol
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
so ed, if you kicked up the psi on the fuel to compensate for the bends...and had a gauge at the carb to tell u what psi the carb really see's at rpm....that be really nice, ya know? lol
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its opened all the way right now as i dont have a gauge on it... but when i did check it when i was making runs i checked it at the T on the carb feed line... its was 7 at idle and 5.5 WOT if i remember
 
kid
this is a local old school 426 max wedge
"Bounty Hunters" @ 75-80 Dragway in monrovia, Maryland
the pics show a nice and clean engine compartment/and such
it's not a six but is clean





 
ok so i fixed the regulator situation! i like it much better...

also threw on the 750 vacuum carb and it made no difference! grr...

fuel volume test came out at 1 minute and 5 seconds per gallon... pretty low...
 
new reg location and 3310 750 carb...
 

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intake leak ? lose wiring ?
mount a fuel guage line after the regulator
w/the guage on the outside engine cowl/windshield so you can read under race conditions
is the motor mounted so it does not move much under torque
 
USAJon said:
intake leak ? lose wiring ?
mount a fuel guage line after the regulator
w/the guage on the outside engine cowl/windshield so you can read under race conditions
is the motor mounted so it does not move much under torque
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got the carb on and was running perfect! still had the top end miss but ran alot better... went to drive it to work and it started falling all over the place lol... long story short put the 600 back on and its all better so the 750 got a peice of junk in it or something...

but yea i have a remote gauge... also still need to do a volume test with the black pump!

EDIT: cant be an intke leak becasue its idling at around 750rpm which is the best ive ever got it to idle at...
 
Just a thought here---------- you might wanna try insulating the fuel lines from the reg. to the carb. You know what the heat's been like here lately & that metal tube lying on a hot valve cover coupled with the rubber hose in a hot engine bay can't be helping your issues.......
 
Damn, your regulator and fuel line work looks like ***. lol I mean for somebody that builds 100K plus cars for a livin, you know man? LMAO. Sorry, I gotta rag on my buddy.
 
hemicop said:
Just a thought here---------- you might wanna try insulating the fuel lines from the reg. to the carb. You know what the heat's been like here lately & that metal tube lying on a hot valve cover coupled with the rubber hose in a hot engine bay can't be helping your issues.......
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Totally agree a must do for this build :burnout:
 
Hey what transmission are you running in that duster in building a 4.5L turboed /6 that im swapping into a old tuner but i want a better manual transmission to bolt on any help from anyone would be much appreciated
 
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