Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Hey guys.....Cracked a rib a few days ago.....golfing made it hurt like hell............
 
Mattax said:
Hey Dave. You're doing good. Hopefully it will make walking and other stuff more enjoyable.
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Yep, it is a lot easier doing stuff now. I’m about 3 lbs ahead of my schedule, so it it is going well. I hit a small plateau in the past couple of weeks, but I seem to have broken through it now.

I’m at 28 lbs down in 32 weeks. My 52 week goal was 42 lbs but if I keep it up, I may be able to exceed that. I would like to hit 50 lbs down.
 
goldfish65 said:
Yes Keith I had it buffed out and waxed shortly after I got it, and I have waxed it a few times since. This last time here is what I used.

View attachment 1715167989
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You need to clay bar it, buff, polish, and then use a high quality synthetic wax like Turtle Wax Ice or Zano. Carnuba Wax only lasts about 30 days on a car parked outdoors.
 
Ddaddy said:
You need to clay bar it, buff, polish, and then use a high quality synthetic wax like Turtle Wax Ice or Zano. Carnuba Wax only lasts about 30 days on a car parked outdoors.
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Can I skip all that other stuff and go to the synthetic wax, if I am satisfied with the condition of the paint as it is?
 
goldfish65 said:
Can I skip all that other stuff and go to the synthetic wax, if I am satisfied with the condition of the paint as it is?
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You can, but the results won’t be quite as good. The synthetic wax will definitely last longer. I would do a double coat the first time if you aren’t going to do the rest.
 
So dumb question. What is buffing in this procsess? Is that simply a cloth (or cloth wheel) to clean up residue from the clay?
 
Ddaddy said:
You can, but the results won’t be quite as good. The synthetic wax will definitely last longer. I would do a double coat the first time if you aren’t going to do the rest.
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Thanks, Dave, I was hoping with your detailing background you would chime in. I kinda thought when somebody suggested carnauba, that it wasn't the best stuff for a car out in the weather. I might just bite the bullet and do the job right. We'll see.
 
Mattax said:
So dumb question. What is buffing in this procsess? Is that simply a cloth (or cloth wheel) to clean up residue from the clay?
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The clay bar removes things deeply embedded in the paint. Things like fine metal dust, etc. it also removes oxidized paint on the surface.

Buffing then levels the surface making it smooth and even. Power buffing is required to really make it smooth.

Polishing then fine tunes the surface to a mirror finish.

The wax only protects and does not impart any additional shine
 
Mattax said:
So dumb question. What is buffing in this procsess? Is that simply a cloth (or cloth wheel) to clean up residue from the clay?
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porter-cable-7424xp-6kadjzh1bjaznvag78atpy5q0v7jbpb72dnh1yibu62.jpg
 
Don't have a random. Do have a couple of 7" buffer/polishers. Never used them. Could practice on the wagoneer - nothing to loose there.
 
You will be pleasantly surprised how nice old paint can come out buffing like that.
 
Time to put my feet up and watch an old movie I got at the library.

Slantsix Dan posted a film on the introduction of the Valiant, from what I gather he obtained an old film and had it digitized, should be of interest to all of us.
 
Mattax said:
Don't have a random. Do have a couple of 7" buffer/polishers. Never used them. Could practice on the wagoneer - nothing to loose there.
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Just keep it on a 30* angle to the surface using only one side of the pad and keep it constantly moving so you don’t burn the paint. Better to move too fast than not fast enough.

Also, clean the pad regularly to keep the buffing compound and paint residue from building up. I always just used a flat head screwdriver presses slightly into the pad while running the buffer out in the open. Just work the screwdriver across the pad while running and it will knock off the debris and fluff the pad.
 
goldfish65 said:
Time to put my feet up and watch an old movie I got at the library.

Slantsix Dan posted a film on the introduction of the Valiant, from what I gather he obtained an old film and had it digitized, should be of interest to all of us.
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I watched half of Dan's film and friends came over. Interesting stuff so far. Too bad Dan is retiring from the hobby. The guy is a vault of Mopar information. Sounds like he will still be around though.
 
Ddaddy said:
Just keep it on a 30* angle to the surface using only one side of the pad and keep it constantly moving so you don’t burn the paint. Better to move too fast than not fast enough.

Also, clean the pad regularly to keep the buffing compound and paint residue from building up. I always just used a flat head screwdriver presses slightly into the pad while running the buffer out in the open. Just work the screwdriver across the pad while running and it will knock off the debris and fluff the pad.
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Here's the Chrysler Imperial of buffer pad cleaning tools. (a screwdriver works well also)
buffing spurr.jpg
 
Mattax said:
Don't have a random. Do have a couple of 7" buffer/polishers. Never used them. Could practice on the wagoneer - nothing to loose there.
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Nice thing about random is you would almost have to try to burn through. On the other hand if you can stay off the edges a regular rotary will get the job done faster if its got the RPMs
 
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