Thinking of Turbo Charging my 6 and have a few questions...

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FURY440

FURY440

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Hi, we have a practically new 2006 Volvo Turbo Charger off a 2.5T, 5 cylinder that is an all in one unit. We were talking about it at the shop today and said we should put it in my 66 Valiant. Seems like it would be a fairly easy and clean looking install. My question is for you experienced Turbo guys, would this be a decent turbo for my 225? We would also be putting a Holley 350cfm on it also with a 2 1/2" exhaust system. The rest of the engine is stock. I cant find the specs on the turbo,.but I believe it can go to a max of 12psi,.but not sure about that. Would it be worth doing since this is a small turbo made for the Volvo 2.5. If so,.what would be the gain for the 225?
Volvo TC.png
 
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that would do fine. The 2.2 have been used but run out of steam. turbos dont really rev hard, especially in our six's so youll be good to go. Youll spool fast so use some hiway gears like 2.93's. The all in one units are nice and clean. That one should sit nice on a Pish-pipe, rhymes with peace-pipe.. :)

If you keep it under 9, you can use the stock distributor, but if you want to use it all, plumb the weep hole of the fuel pump and give it a T off the pressure side. your advance curve will be tricky, ask Bill D. what he is using.
 
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Yes,.I did see that thread, but didn't read through it yet. Thanks for reminding me. Since this Volvo Turbo is small, I'm figuring it will be perfect for my slanty and spool fast. I'm not drag racing it and it will be a DD. I'm also pretty sure that I don't need to run an intercooler being the boost will be around 8 to 9 lbs give or take. Would anyone know what the HP gain will be or is there a calculator to figure this out? What do you guys think? I'm thinking maybe a 50hp gain??
 
Is the top line PN TD04L-14T ? This looks like a variant on a Mitsubishi part number.

If so, the -14 size should do OK. I was just chatting with another guy about this series of turbos....
slant 6 rebuild and upgrade list
 
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And that 'servo looking thingie' off of the left side is the wastegate control.... you'll need to see where that limits and change to accomodate your lower boost level. Basically, put low pressure air into the port with a very accurate pressure gauge, and see at what pressure the rod out the back starts to move. You can mod these by taking the cover off CAREFULLY (so you can re-crimp it on later) and lighten the spring to go lower. Or find another one for a lower boost pressure....

I assume this one has 2 water cooling ports? (Probably for banjop type connections. ) And an oil pressure port with oil drain? Make sure you put a 1/2" or 5/8" ID drain hose on the oil drain side to the pan, and use a braided oil pressure line on the oil pressure side; solid steel lines tend to crack with the vibration and expansion.
 
nm9stheham said:
And that 'servo looking thingie' off of the left side is the wastegate control.... you'll need to see where that limits and change to accomodate your lower boost level. Basically, put low pressure air into the port with a very accurate pressure gauge, and see at what pressure the rod out the back starts to move. You can mod these by taking the cover off CAREFULLY (so you can re-crimp it on later) and lighten the spring to go lower. Or find another one for a lower boost pressure....

I assume this one has 2 water cooling ports? (Probably for banjop type connections. ) And an oil pressure port with oil drain? Make sure you put a 1/2" or 5/8" ID drain hose on the oil drain side to the pan, and use a braided oil pressure line on the oil pressure side; solid steel lines tend to crack with the vibration and expansion.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all the good information. I planned on using a 5/8" drain hose with a braided steel oil pressure line. Talking about the drain back line and what I've read is that it's attached to the oil pan above the oil level in the pan,.is this correct? Where would be the best spot to mount it in the pan. I just want to make sure it's right.
 
Pretty much anywhere so that it has a decently straight drop and drains the frothed oil easily and freely. I have run some Mitsu 2.6L turbos and they drain just into the upper edge of the pan right below the turbo. The big thing is to not kink or restrict the drain and make it back up and push oil in to the intake.

BTW, for power adder, just as a guess from some air flows from a spreadsheet I did up for this range of turbos, maybe 40ish HP if you push the boost up to 10-12 psi. I would start myself around 8 and work up from there. BTW, if you start with an 8 psi wastegate control, you can engineer in a controlled, variable air leak in the manifold pressure line to the wastegate and use that the trick the lower pressure wastegate to open at a higher manifold pressure; it is the easy way to make a variable boost control... within limits. You can buy such valves....
 
Thank you nm9stheham. Again, good information.

I never attempted to turbo charge any engine, especially one that will be a total custom install. We do a lot of fabricating at our shop,.so that part will be fine. I'm looking for a clean install that won't look like it was rigged and I want it to be efficient. Will will be installing a wideband o2 sensor with an A/F gauge for tuning.
Do you think the 350 Holley we have will be ok to use for this setup?

Where are you guys getting the intake tubes from? My setup will most likely look like this when done, but I want to plumb the air filter/intake tube out the front of the car with some sort of box.
Untitled.png
 
I personally think it will work 'just' adequately as you will be pushing up into the 300+ cfm range with the boost around 10 psi. So maybe for a starter carb. But others with this type of setup could give better info. BTW, with that type of setup, I expect you know that you will need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, high pressure pump, return line, etc. And a 2.5" exhaust is the minimum I would use for 225 ci and would contemplate 3". No muffler needed!

And I like the idea for a box out front. I am surprised the pictured setup does not have hose clamps on the soft tube connections.... maybe it is just a test setup pix.

I can't help you with the ignition timing setup; that is another topic. Surely that info is around here somewhere....
 
I would only turbo w/ a MPFI conversion because easier & better than a carburetor. I don't know much about the later except that only certain carbs work correctly w/ boost pressure.
 
I was thinking about turbo charging mine too but if I do fuel injecting it would be ideal. Fi will also go e better gas mileage as well even without the turbo
 
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