Thoughts/do I need to dent my new headers, new pics ?

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I'm pretty sure that's not a 1969 pitman arm. For a pre-'73, the stud should pointing up through the center link. Not down as shown. Moving the joint below the center link could free enough room to clear just the stud and nut. Same with the idler arm. Of course someone may have swapped in the '73-up center link, which would leave you looking for an earlier one.
Anyway, before I raised the devil with TTI, or took a torch and hammer to the pipe, I'd try to be sure what is supposed to fit is actually in there.
 

^^^^^
I’m with you,,,,,the pitman looks to be the problem .

Why not do what the hot rod guys do,,,,,modify the pitman arm to make it fit .
They heat and reshape things all the time to make things fit .
Buy another arm and move the end to where you need it .
Another 5 degrees of bend should clear the header I think .

Tommy
 
moparhunter said:
Honestly, it’s not a horsepower concerned. I’m not looking for a total performance. It just hurts the wallet after spending that money to put a hammer to these pipes .
Click to expand...
That's the part I was talkin about when I said I be damned if I'd dent um. lol
 
S'cuder said:
I'm pretty sure that's not a 1969 pitman arm. For a pre-'73, the stud should pointing up through the center link. Not down as shown. Moving the joint below the center link could free enough room to clear just the stud and nut. Same with the idler arm. Of course someone may have swapped in the '73-up center link, which would leave you looking for an earlier one.
Anyway, before I raised the devil with TTI, or took a torch and hammer to the pipe, I'd try to be sure what is supposed to fit is actually in there.
Click to expand...
I agree 100% after looking at a 69 pitman arm. If that's the case, he probably has the wrong center link as well, OR it's been installed upside down.
 
With the loose tolerances these cars were built around, no way is anyone guaranteeing a set of headers will fit all the time. That area sucks on these cars with headers. Early or late steering gear, same deal, PIA.

The steering gear is 1973+, you can tell the centerlink is 73+ from the pitman/tie rod end orientation.

Try what I suggested before spending time on the phone. Another potential help, loosen the ear bolts on the motor mount brackets, jack the engine up a little and tighten them back up. See if it raises the engine.
 
crackedback said:
With the loose tolerances these cars were built around, no way is anyone guaranteeing a set of headers will fit all the time.

The steering gear is 1973+, you can tell the centerlink is 73+ from the pitman/tie rod end orientation.

Try what I suggested before spending time on the phone.
Click to expand...
Frikkin Chevy headers fit. Every. Damn. Time. Why caint we have the same?
 
crackedback said:
With the loose tolerances these cars were built around, no way is anyone guaranteeing a set of headers will fit all the time.

The steering gear is 1973+, you can tell the centerlink is 73+ from the pitman/tie rod end orientation.

Try what I suggested before spending time on the phone.
Click to expand...
That's what I thought. Thanks for the confirmation.
 
I helped my buddy put a set of TTI headers on his small block 71 Demon, made a 1/4” thick shim to go under the passenger side engine mount to keep the tie rod from rubbing the header.
 
Desoto291hemi said:
^^^^^
I’m with you,,,,,the pitman looks to be the problem .

Why not do what the hot rod guys do,,,,,modify the pitman arm to make it fit .
They heat and reshape things all the time to make things fit .
Buy another arm and move the end to where you need it .
Another 5 degrees of bend should clear the header I think .

Tommy
Click to expand...

No way would I heat and bend a critical steering component.

It weakens the part and could result in catastrophic failure.

The guys on here who know the right parts to use are on the right track.

Check that option first.
 
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moparhunter said:
Anybody have thoughts?
Click to expand...
If this is a 400 big block swap I would expect some minor modifications during install.
The last I read you did the 400 big block swap, engine placement is very important.
Did you ever get the swap mounts figured out?
 
Because you said you shimmed the motor mounts to lift it I assume you have a biscuit style k-member (68-72). But now looking at the photo it also appears that you have the later style large sector shaft steering box with the 73 and up pitman arm. I don’t know and can’t see what you have going on with the idler arm, does the stud from the idler come in from the bottom of centerlink? With the castle nut on top? It also appears to be a later Center link. The earlier style linkage has the cetnerlink sitting in top of the idler and pitman studs with the tie rod ends coming through a different way. See attached pictures. Ie: I’m think you may a potential mis-match of parts going on here too?

Also, Did you ensure the centerline of the crankshaft is 5.25” off the k-member. Mine was very close to hitting where you have a problem but once I ensure the crank was the height they specified it clears, not by much, but it clears.

I did have to ‘adjust’ my headers where I circled them in red, to clear the torsion bar. My engine rocks a bit from the lumpy cam and it would rattle against the torsion bar.

I get it that you paid a lot for the headers but if it’s not a lot, and the linkage orientation is safe, you might just want to ‘clearance it’ and save yourself a ton of grief so you can move on with the rest of the build.

Where are you in Canada?

IMG_6053.jpeg
 
4mulas said:
Also, Did you ensure the centerline of the crankshaft is 5.25” off the k-member.
Click to expand...
there's also side to side measurements.
I'm glad you brought the height measurement up, it all adds up.
 
Good grief guys.

It’s a 73+ pitman and center link. It also has to be a ‘73+ idler, regardless.

You can’t install a center link upside down because the tapers are all directional.

The ‘73+ steering components on a ‘69 K frame is not any kind of “mismatch”, the steering geometry is not changed.

There are slight clearance changes because of the location of the tie rod ends, but, if anything the 73+ arrangement usually creates more, not less space. That is of course body tolerance dependent.
 
You can shim BOTH sides of the biscuit on a SB.

Loosen up the trans crossmember, jack it up and retighten. Try simple things before going to extremes. Do a shim under the mount before beating the headers up.

Good luck with it.
 
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I’m with @72bluNblu my 72 duster has biscuit K frame and 73 up brakes / suspension. You have to run the later idler / pitman with the later centerlink. The clearances are tight but not pounding in the headers tight…

Edit, I didn’t say these are TTI headers, manual steering box when I posted this.

IMG_7573.jpeg


IMG_7574.jpeg


IMG_7575.jpeg


IMG_7576.jpeg
 
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I took a couple more pictures for explanation. It is for all sake and purposes, a 73 and up big bolt pattern disc brake front end with a 68 to 72 V8 K member with Schumacher motor mounts the motor measures up to be in the right spot ( slightly higher now because of the shims ) I am going to track down some other Pittman arms for comparison I think .
 
moparhunter said:
Well, as much as I hate to admit this, I’m in Canada and by the time they landed at my door, $1700 Bucks . So yes, taking a hammer to them hurts the wallet.
Click to expand...
I feel that pain, mine were 1600, and the fool that installed them for me never checked the clearance, so when I felt something off and crawled under to have a look, I found I have a slight groove worn into one pipe. I was a little more than pissed.
 
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