Tubular Lower Control Arm Thread

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Thanks everyone. Here is a little install video. I currently have a pretty nasty cold so sorry if you can't understand me. The entire thing takes 4 minutes to put together. LOL [ame="http://youtu.be/_48MOeET6C0"]302 Found[/ame]
 
Badart said:
I think crackedback posted those and they are a friends car. The only issue I see with them is where the bar lands along the frame rail it is really tight because of tire contact. I mean to the point where the tire almost hits the frame rail if a guy runs wide tires. I think one solution is like what Inkjunkie did with his car. Have the snout bar pass through the inner fender and land on the frame rail inside of the engine bay.

I think that I have a solution that should work with a guy not wanting to run snout bars or J bars in the engine bay.
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Sorry for not paying attention to this, and not reading the whole thread as I am kinda pressed for time right now but thought I would post a picture of what is being discussed......and if I have already posted this sorry for the doublepost......to me it would kinda make sense to try and land the bar in the engine compartment either right on the k-frame area or up by where your lower radiator support is welded in. This might pose it's own problem but before I blab about it will go check on my car when we get home from getting the MRI done......writing myself a note so I do not forget.....
 

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1970Duster said:
Great video! Got an idea of how much for them?
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Once they pass Louis' inspection then I will start putting 10 sets of them together. I know they will work and there shouldn't be any issues with strength.
I only need to wait for the position to weld on the coilover tabs. They will be $375 a set for everything. I wanted to make them comparable to mustang and camaro lowers.
 
I noticed in the video that you installed the strut rod first and then dropped the arm into position from the top, does that mean the K frame has to be out of the car or is there enough play to install them with the K frame in the car, as the frame rail will be in the way?
 
Purple Haze said:
I noticed in the video that you installed the strut rod first and then dropped the arm into position from the top, does that mean the K frame has to be out of the car or is there enough play to install them with the K frame in the car?
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No they can be installed with the K member in the car. You could also attach the strut rod to the arm and then install it that way too.
 
Video looks really good.

Good explanation audio is fairly intelligible, given the cold it sounds great.

Are you in sales? :)

Look forward to seeing the upper reinforcements.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Very Nice...will be in the market for one this summer...
 
Joe Dokes said:
Video looks really good.

Good explanation audio is fairly intelligible, given the cold it sounds great.

Are you in sales? :)

Look forward to seeing the upper reinforcements.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
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Thanks and no not in sales. If I can pull the front end from my dart tomorrow then I will bend up something for the braces.
 
This is one of 3 options that I have for bracing the inner fenders for coilovers. This one most likely offers the least amount of support, but there is tons of clearance. I think that it may be for someone who doesn't want J bars in the engine bay or the other option that Louis is doing.

Imagine the landings along the frame rail and the top of the brace being cut into and welded in the factory mount frame. Bailing wire would be an option too. :D I think the second bar will offer a little more support and help the frame rails from rolling in. What are your thoughts?
 

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again, very nice!

off topic, but do you have a larger pic of your avatar? im trying to get ideas for paint. :)
 
I think that if someone were to box the entire brace to it's inner fender would help stiffen things up considerably. Nice option for those that dont want j bars under thier hood's!
 
What about these
uppershockmount.jpg

$225.00 is way out control.
 
Purple Haze said:
What about these
uppershockmount.jpg

$225.00 is way out control.
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Those look bitchen but they cost alot of $$.:wack:
Something else that has a Crazy Price is Billet LS style coil mounts that go on the valve covers. Edelbrock gets 199.00 for each side. $400.00 for a set of Coil Mounts. :wack: X2
 
Them CNC machines are expensive, include programming, testing, and an operator and it's easy to understand why parts are so expensive.

I don't want to start a war and I don't want anyone accused of stealing other people's ideas, but there is another thread on these boards were a guy is building a tubular K-member. He has some interesting ideas about the k-member. More importantly he has some very interesting ideas for the upper shock mount.

Although I am uncertain about the overal strength and durability of the mount, the basic design is intriguing because of its simplicity and elegance. Since it uses bar stock and some punched holes it would be a lot cheaper to fabricate than the CNC mounts posted above.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Joe Dokes said:
Them CNC machines are expensive, include programming, testing, and an operator and it's easy to understand why parts are so expensive.

I don't want to start a war and I don't want anyone accused of stealing other people's ideas, but there is another thread on these boards were a guy is building a tubular K-member. He has some interesting ideas about the k-member. More importantly he has some very interesting ideas for the upper shock mount.

Although I am uncertain about the overal strength and durability of the mount, the basic design is intriguing because of its simplicity and elegance. Since it uses bar stock and some punched holes it would be a lot cheaper to fabricate than the CNC mounts posted above.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

how about a link...
 
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