**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**

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Mad Dart said:
Yeah it will probably bug me. Will I ever use the 5/8's Studs? I don't know. I guess I could tap out the 1/2" holes to 5/8's at that time. I just pisses me off when this is America and everyone says America has the best workers etc, etc. I alway's tell people that 20% of the people do 80% of the work. The rest of the 80% aren't worth a chittt and are there just to pick up a paycheck. That is part of the reason this country is all fkd up.

Rant is over......
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i would call them and tell them you need axels in the car for mock up. tell them they need to send the new axels with a pre paid return postage tag and you will put the **** ones in the box and send them back. that is what i did with my moser axels. they didnt even blink twice. im sure you paid a fee of some sort having the second pattern drilled. why should you pay for it and then live with it while its wrong. I always ask myself "how many hours did i work to pay for this?"
 
Well I called strange and they told me that the axle flanges come off the shelf just like I received them and they would have taken 3 weeks because what I was asking for is a custom order. They never told me that on the phone when I placed the order. So in their mind it is my fault. Typical American made workman mentality. I will not buy from strange ever again. They just lost my business for life.
 
That's BS you'd think they would bend over backwards to keep your business and do what it takes to win your business. Sounds cheesy to me.
 
I got it all put together tonight. Took about 1 hour. It jut might find its way under the car tomorrow!
 

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Looks great Louis! Make sure you have given yourself some decent amount of room between the tires and the inner wheel tub. I have some serious tire rubbing issues in turnign corners on mine. I did not even think about how the rear will articulate in turns, causing the outside wheel to shoot up at an angle into the wheel tub. I literally cannot turn a 3 mph turn without hearing screeching noises! I've got some serious problems. lol.
 
clinteg said:
Looks great Louis! Make sure you have given yourself some decent amount of room between the tires and the inner wheel tub. I have some serious tire rubbing issues in turnign corners on mine. I did not even think about how the rear will articulate in turns, causing the outside wheel to shoot up at an angle into the wheel tub. I literally cannot turn a 3 mph turn without hearing screeching noises! I've got some serious problems. lol.
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Is there a way for you to widen the tub up top? When doing mine I pushed the top over as much as possible and used a BFH on the dimple areas that stick out. I articulated it when I built it and it did not rub anywhere. Real world driving though could change all that. This would be another reason for me to run the car before it goes to paint. If there are any issues they can be fixed beforehand.

I have over 1" clearance on both sides of the tire.
 
Looks good Luigi(LOL)Yes your work is top-notch too.I also had issues a few yrs back with axels(BEAR,S PERFORMANCE)sent me 8 3/4 axels that were 27 inches???WTF were they thinking?Anyway,looking forward to your car coming together.:D
 
I have maybe 1/2" clearance on my left tire and maybe 3/4" on the right. Both sides rub, with the left side being the worst thus far. But I have mostly only driven around the mile section from my house which is a bunch of right hand turns. I used some heat and hammer last night and beat the crap outta the wheel tubs. The left side I made a pretty substantial difference, but I'm a little concerned about the right side. It didn't seem to want to move as much. It's kinda hard to swing a hammer in there. Maybe I just need a bigger hamer! I could install wheel spacers, but I have already screwed myself there because if I did that, my lugs would not stick out 1/2" past the wheel surface, which will not pass tech at the track. So if it ends up that this won't work and I need the spacers, I'm going to have to remove the axles again, grind the tack welds off the stud heads, remove the studs, install new ones, and cut off to match the new length. I am really trying to avoid this option, but I have fear that in the end, this is what I will have to do. Oh the things a person learns from his mistakes!
 
clinteg said:
I have maybe 1/2" clearance on my left tire and maybe 3/4" on the right. Both sides rub, with the left side being the worst thus far. But I have mostly only driven around the mile section from my house which is a bunch of right hand turns. I used some heat and hammer last night and beat the crap outta the wheel tubs. The left side I made a pretty substantial difference, but I'm a little concerned about the right side. It didn't seem to want to move as much. It's kinda hard to swing a hammer in there. Maybe I just need a bigger hamer! I could install wheel spacers, but I have already screwed myself there because if I did that, my lugs would not stick out 1/2" past the wheel surface, which will not pass tech at the track. So if it ends up that this won't work and I need the spacers, I'm going to have to remove the axles again, grind the tack welds off the stud heads, remove the studs, install new ones, and cut off to match the new length. I am really trying to avoid this option, but I have fear that in the end, this is what I will have to do. Oh the things a person learns from his mistakes!
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I got mine installed this morning. I articulated it big time and there is no way it is going to rub cause the shocks keep it from drooping too far. At full droop with one side up and the other down I still have at least 3/4" of clearance. Man you had me trippinn this morning. Do you have any pictures of where it is hitting?? Post them up in your build thread if you can.
 
Mad Dart said:
I got mine installed this morning. I articulated it big time and there is no way it is going to rub cause the shocks keep it from drooping too far. At full droop with one side up and the other down I still have at least 3/4" of clearance. Man you had me trippinn this morning. Do you have any pictures of where it is hitting?? Post them up in your build thread if you can.
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Sorry, I didn't mean to trip you out! I dunno what's going on with mine. It's hitting halfway between the frame and the top of the wheel tub, rubbing the inside of the tires. I've already heated and beat the snot out of the tubs so I don't know if pictures will do anything for you at this point. Just imagine the tire coming up at an angle and hitting the top center inside of the tire to the center area of the tub sidewall. I'm going to go get a friend's 3 lb hammer for some more work this evening :banghead:. My hammer isn't big enough. I hope your setup works much better. I'm already thinking I should install an anti-roll bar setup now so there's no roll in the rear. We'll see. I need to update my thread sometime. I've done quite a bit done since I last updated it!
 
pettybludart said:
Looks good Luigi(LOL)Yes your work is top-notch too.I also had issues a few yrs back with axels(BEAR,S PERFORMANCE)sent me 8 3/4 axels that were 27 inches???WTF were they thinking?Anyway,looking forward to your car coming together.:D
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Yeah, I guess I need to give them a break. People make mistakes I should know that right?:banghead:

I am going to buy a 20gal fuel cell from Jegs or Summit and sink it partially down into the underside of the car after I cut out the spare tire well. It will sit down low enough to get past the fittings on the tank. Should make it nice to look at like that. I will mount the fuel pumps on the underside next to the tank.
 
clinteg said:
Sorry, I didn't mean to trip you out! I dunno what's going on with mine. It's hitting halfway between the frame and the top of the wheel tub, rubbing the inside of the tires. I've already heated and beat the snot out of the tubs so I don't know if pictures will do anything for you at this point. Just imagine the tire coming up at an angle and hitting the top center inside of the tire to the center area of the tub sidewall. I'm going to go get a friend's 3 lb hammer for some more work this evening :banghead:. My hammer isn't big enough. I hope your setup works much better. I'm already thinking I should install an anti-roll bar setup now so there's no roll in the rear. We'll see. I need to update my thread sometime. I've done quite a bit done since I last updated it!
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GO BUY A 4 LB HAMMER. It will be one of your favorite tools and you will wonder you you ever lived without it
http://www.wiltontools.com/us/manufacturing/en/wilton/product.html?node=19343&product=1237779
 
You will need the hammer for driveshaft to tunnel clearancing as well! I have a 3.5" d-shaft and it would hit on certain bumps. With a 4 link you might not have issues. Just be aware because it knocked the weight off my brand new driveshaft at the rear.
 
72BBSwinger said:
You will need the hammer for driveshaft to tunnel clearancing as well! I have a 3.5" d-shaft and it would hit on certain bumps. With a 4 link you might not have issues. Just be aware because it knocked the weight off my brand new driveshaft at the rear.
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I didn't think of that. I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there. Maybe it is possible to drop the rear of the trans at the mount/tail shaft a bit to make it clear. I have plenty of adjustment for the Pinion Angle if that would take care of it.
 
Jo Diesel said:
GO BUY A 4 LB HAMMER. It will be one of your favorite tools and you will wonder you you ever lived without it
http://www.wiltontools.com/us/manufacturing/en/wilton/product.html?node=19343&product=1237779
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I definitely need one. Although, I busted through the material with a 3 lb the other day and my tires STILL rub after pound out the wheel tubs! I tell ya what, this build is just one problem after the other. I don't think I can tell you one thing that has gone right so far...

72BBSwinger said:
You will need the hammer for driveshaft to tunnel clearancing as well! I have a 3.5" d-shaft and it would hit on certain bumps. With a 4 link you might not have issues. Just be aware because it knocked the weight off my brand new driveshaft at the rear.
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I might need to look at this too. I haven't noticed the driveshaft hitting yet.
 
Well I finally got off my lazy butt and tore the front end back out of the car. I tig welded the lower shock brackets on the lower control arms and sanded all the welding buggers off of the K frame. I will be dropping off the K Frame in the morning along with the upper and lower control arms for powder coat.

I really think at this point I should build a jig for the front and rear of the car so I can Roll it around to the painter etc. Ths way I can scrape & detail the bottom of the car after all of the brackets for brake lines, fuel and trans are done.
 
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