Want to improve ignition....

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abodyjoe said:
i like the Mopar HEI Conversion . on a small block you won't even notice it back there. chap over the counter replacement module too.. plus it eliminates all that extra crap around where the ballast used to be..
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I can see it, does not qualify, but I do not doubt that it performs well.
 
some don't care about not seeing it. and with a stock air cleaner on the car i doubt you would see it either without pulling the air cleaner.

i've used pertronix in the past. worked very well. only problem is if it fails far from home you are kinda screwed unless you have a points set up sitting in the glovebox or something.. not getting a replacement at the local parts store.. exactly why i like the HEI module. just about anywhere sells those things if you need one.
 
abodyjoe said:
some don't care about not seeing it. and with a stock air cleaner on the car i doubt you would see it either without pulling the air cleaner.

i've used pertronix in the past. worked very well. only problem is if it fails far from home you are kinda screwed unless you have a points set up sitting in the glovebox or something.. not getting a replacement at the local parts store.. exactly why i like the HEI module. just about anywhere sells those things if you need one.
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You still need a driver and such to replace it. I guess it seems a personal preference. I prefer to hide my GM stuff on my Mopar.
 
Also if I am wrong please correct me but seems you have to drill some holes in that dizzy to mount that. If you have a point dizzy will it work with out more mods? Seems you must use an electronic unit to start with.
 
Still discussion only not trying to start an argument but, can it be changed without pulling the dizzy and having a distibutor wrench handy as well on a small block application? I keep an open mind to a better deal all the time.
 
1969383S said:
Also if I am wrong please correct me but seems you have to drill some holes in that dizzy to mount that. If you have a point dizzy will it work with out more mods? Seems you must use an electronic unit to start with.
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holes were already drilled int he housing, just needed to thread them.. yes you need an electronic dist for it. but like i said not everyone needs it to look all original, and again on a small block with the dist in the rear of the engine its really tough to spot that back there.. the original poster has a 73 car which woudl have electronice dist anyway,,
 
1969383S said:
You still need a driver and such to replace it. I guess it seems a personal preference. I prefer to hide my GM stuff on my Mopar.
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a driver to replace what? i'll either walk to the nearest store or get a ride from uber. i always have tools in the car so thats not a problem.. bottom line is i'll have the parts in a day at the latest. pertrinix is gonna be a few days to a week to get parts for unless you have a second unit in the trunk..

like i said i've used pertronix and it works well. i juts prefer more easily attainable parts myself..
 
Cool, but not my cup of tea! I gave an opinion and will rest there.
 
abodyjoe said:
a driver to replace what? i'll either walk to the nearest store or get a ride from uber. i always have tools in the car so thats not a problem.. bottom line is i'll have the parts in a day at the latest. pertrinix is gonna be a few days to a week to get parts for unless you have a second unit in the trunk..

like i said i've used pertronix and it works well. i juts prefer more easily attainable parts myself..
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A screw driver or such and likely a dizzy wrench , seems like it would be impossible to replace with out pulling the dizzy.
 
My glove box holds the original breaker plate a stubby Phillips and 3/8 ingnition wrench with instructions saying no need to call Uber!

We are helping the OP make an educated decision please do not be offended!
 
I like Kiss
As to the Distributor;
My factory D is circa 1973. Guts modded like Mattax says. You really only need to mod the slots once or maybe twice, so IMO, the FABO plate is nice to have........ if you don't have a welder.
That old D of mine has been in near constant use since 73. I bet it has over 300,000 miles on it. I'm on the second used pick-up since 1999. I always carry spares. Only takes a few minutes to swap them out.
As to coils;
I gotta say that the Big Yellow Accell square top seems to be indestructible. I bought it new in about 2002. I mounted it on the apron, away from heat and vibration, with about a 3ft wire,lol.It uses it's own resistor. It's seen three cams, including the 292/292/108. IIRC the hype on it said not for over 6500. But that hasn't prevented me from shifting her at 7000/7200. I can't praise that coil enough.
As to Amps;
Since 2004, I have been using a Jacob's Dial-back ignition module that has a built-in Amp.No problems with it at all, unlike their Multi-Strike. The previous Amp was an Orange Box that I purchased in 99; which was dead-reliable too.
In my opinion, the Mopar Ignition system is pretty robust. Well except for the B-resistor; but what can you do... The system doesn't run on battery voltage, and for good reason.
Misc;
The only thing I don't like about the factory D is the freaky wire clip that holds the cam onto the driveshaft. So my first mod was to get rid of it.
If you have an overdrive and cruise around 2200, you need to get yourself the biggest V-can you can find; yur gonna need it. Or mod yours by filing the stops shorter. Mine has ~22* now, and she could use maybe 8 more. If you're cruising more towards 2800 or higher, than the 18* unit might be fine.
Don't underestimate the advance curve, and try not to force-feed your engine advance. IMO, 2 to 4 degrees not enough timing, is better than 1* too much; sneak up on it. When it's right, it's fabulous.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Don't underestimate the advance curve, and try not to force-feed your engine advance. IMO, 2 to 4 degrees not enough timing, is better than 1* too much; sneak up on it.
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I think that's true, and certainly the safe way to deal with the mechanical curve.

I have to disagree on the FBO plate, especially for someone taking it to the dragstrip. It limits the advance instead of increasing the initial. Too many people get fooled into thinking that quick advance off idle is OK to keep going to 'all in at 2500'. That's fine with no-vacuum advance for 1/4 mile runs, but costs top end power and is too much mechanical advance in normal driving to work with vacuum advance. You may remember that for years Don's stuff didn't work well with vacuum advance, and he recommended not using it. My guess is he's addressed some of that now in the package deal, but for the FBO plate alone, the issue remains.

I had a Accel Super Coil on the firewall, upright, and it leaked oil. In retrospect I'm not sure if I caused it to overheat or the top seal finally gave out due to quality of manufacture. I'd have to dig back to figure out if I was running with a Chrome box or had switched to the MSD 6A when it failed. It is a pretty good coil when matched with the correct resistor, and was the recomended coil with certain chrome boxes.
 
the stock ignition is as good as it gets for your application and it's easy to recurve.
...but you didn't want to hear that.
 
Wow! This escalated quickly... lol. Well I truly enjoy all the different ideas and ways to do it and I fortunately am not moving fast on making the change as it runs really well now. I am just always interested in newer/better ways to run things and you all are obviously way more knowledgable than me! They all look like good ideas! Ill keep you posted when my wife lets me spend more money on parts!

As for now, on to swapping the rear springs and torsion bars! watching the snow melt is getting me way to excited!

Also, if I do decide to go with an aftermarket dizzy, how is the fitment for it in a 73 dart with 360? I have heard that it may be a little tight (By that i mean it doesnt fit)... because lets be honest, its always a little tight fit!

Thanks for you input!
 
Ignition is like octane; you need just enough to get the job done; after than, more is not necessarily better, altho it can't hurt..
When it comes to ignition, it's the amps that makes a difference. Which is why Multi-strike was invented, cuz single strike-CDI at low-rpm, did not seem to have enough amps, and the fire, if it got lit at all, might not stay lit. The first time I read that, turned me off completely to Multi-strike. The CDI is a great invention, I'm just not sold on it for street..... for two reasons; reliability, and cost.
If a point-type ignition with an HO inductive coil, can fire your engine at idle and tip-in without hick-ups, the only thing that will make it better would be the elimination of the points. The nice thing about the Mopar electronic system is that the trigger/ECU runs at one voltage, while the coil runs at another. You can't reliably do that with the old-time points-type system. So this opens up a new world to driving the coil with more than 6 or 7 volts. You just have to find a coil that won't burn up from the "abuse".
At the other end of the rpm scale, the coil has to fire the plug, then get outta the way; and almost any coil can do that. But it also has to be able to do that to at least the "redline". CDI is very good at that...... But I got no complaints with my SQ-Top.
 
All that pertronix ignitor stuff used to fail in about a year or so, I don't recommend that crap to anybody. I always like to use m s d stuff or just the factory Orange Box and distributor with some shortening of the Curve and Advance rate.
One thing's for sure the most important things to consider are what plug wires you are using, their resistance, and a good hot Spark from a good coil. With that said ... get good plug wires with no more than 5 or 600 ohms of resistance and buy a hot coil...because It won't matter what you have for ignition if you lose half the energy through the spark plug wire.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
All that pertronix ignitor stuff used to fail in about a year or so, I don't recommend that crap to anybody. I always like to use m s d stuff or just the factory Orange Box
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had pertronix in our 69 dart for the 7 or 8 years we owned it and never had an issue. and that orange box (one made after the 80's) has a horrible reputation of shitting out pretty fast.
 
abodyjoe said:
had pertronix in our 69 dart for the 7 or 8 years we owned it and never had an issue. and that orange box (one made after the 80's) has a horrible reputation of shitting out pretty fast.
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I have had my Pertronix in for a few years. Not so much as a hick-up. Fairly inexpensive and easy to install. A simple solution.
 
abodyjoe said:
had pertronix in our 69 dart for the 7 or 8 years we owned it and never had an issue. and that orange box (one made after the 80's) has a horrible reputation of shitting out pretty fast.
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I've had 3 ignitors take a ****, 2004-2006.
I've had one brand new orange box constantly rapid fire the coil ... changed it back to the dirty looking orange box I had on before and it was fine again. I just wanted clean components, was gonna sell the old for 25 bucks... ended up throwing the new one away.

Different strokes for different folks.lol
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I've had 3 ignitors take a ****, 2004-2006.
I've had one brand new orange box constantly rapid fire the coil ... changed it back to the dirty looking orange box I had on before and it was fine again. I just wanted clean components, was gonna sell the old for 25 bucks... ended up throwing the new one away.

Different strokes for different folks.lol
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your old one is probably from the 80's when they were decent. anything after that is pretty much junk.
 
I did the HEI Ignition Upgrade last spring and it gives me a hotter spark than the Mopar EI system. I know it's a lot hotter because I can run much leaner cruising fuel mixtures than I ever could with the old system. The HEI system is extremely reliable and replacement parts (if ever needed) are plentiful and cheap. See HEI Ignition Upgrade.
 
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