Water pump bolt broke off

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With the bit broke off in there your only real option is to remove the timing cover and try drilling from the back side.
If it were me I would tack a nut on the front but you need to find someone good with a mig. Might be an option on the back side too if there is a little sticking out.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
With the bit broke off in there your only real option is to remove the timing cover and try drilling from the back side.
If it were me I would tack a nut on the front but you need to find someone good with a mig. Might be an option on the back side too if there is a little sticking out.
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Ya I'm trying to locate someone who can do come here and do it..
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
The top luckily bolt broke off and I tried to drill it out and got half way threw center of broken bolt and of course the drill bit broke...just want it out their is room I can put a bolt and nut on back of it if I can make a hole..any ideas on how to get it out or just drill threw it ...do I need to drill closest to the sides and work my way around it?? Any help would be appreciated..
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Is it still in the car? If not scrap the timing cover, they’re a lot easier to find and I’ve got one if you need it, just pay the shipping. You’re wasting your time trying to go around it.

Jake
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Is it still in the car? If not scrap the timing cover, they’re a lot easier to find and I’ve got one if you need it, just pay the shipping. You’re wasting your time trying to go around it.thanks if I need it will definitely be in touch..but going to try to get it out first..

Jake
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so in the car... you might need to remove the radiator depending on what type drill motor you own. Regardless how you drill it out... you first need to get on center. So.... dry fit the water pump on with most of the bolts. Use a bit the same diameter as the hole in the water pump casting as a pilot to drill 1/8 to 3/16 deep ( I can't really see how deep the off center drill went )
to create a true center.
I don't like easy outs. If I can step my drill size to sneak up on the threads minor diameter, I'll get the hull out. Usually drive a keen angle ground tool in behind the hull to collapse it.
Even if you ended up with a on size clear hole you could put a longer bolt and a nut there.
And use sharp drill bits so you don't push hard, easier to drill straight. New bits aren't so expense if you trying to avoid pulling the timing cover. That usually snowballs into new timing set or more.
 
Looks drilled off center? Is the drill bit broke in the off center hole? Hard to tell. If so, the broken bit likely has it "pinned" in place. Another cover might be the best bet. it's hard to re-drill through a broken bit/tool steel without breaking another.
 
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Then throw the whole car in the ditch. Why save what two hours worth of work can fix? Why are you trying to avoid pulling the cover? Are you trying NOT to learn something new? There's only one way to get the genie out of the bottle. Pull the cover and either fix it or replace it.

It's all part of hot rodding. Are you trying to get out of that, too?
 
RedFish said:
so in the car... you might need to remove the radiator depending on what type drill motor you own. Regardless how you drill it out... you first need to get on center. So.... dry fit the water pump on with most of the bolts. Use a bit the same diameter as the hole in the water pump casting as a pilot to drill 1/8 to 3/16 deep ( I can't really see how deep the off center drill went )
to create a true center.
I don't like easy outs. If I can step my drill size to sneak up on the threads minor diameter, I'll get the hull out. Usually drive a keen angle ground tool in behind the hull to collapse it.
Even if you ended up with a on size clear hole you could put a longer bolt and a nut there.
And use sharp drill bits so you don't push hard, easier to drill straight. New bits aren't so expense if you trying to avoid pulling the timing cover. That usually snowballs into new timing set or more.
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Yes will accept a hole threw it with bolt and nut...will try tomorrow and keep everyone posted..thanks
 
RustyRatRod said:
Then throw the whole car in the ditch. Why save what two hours worth of work can fix? Why are you trying to avoid pulling the cover? Are you trying NOT to learn something new? There's only one way to get the genie out of the bottle. Pull the cover and either fix it or replace it.

It's all part of hot rodding. Are you trying to get out of that, too?
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I think the Mig suggestion is at least one other way to solve the problem. By the way....do you usually try to sound like a condescending prick?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Then throw the whole car in the ditch. Why save what two hours worth of work can fix? Why are you trying to avoid pulling the cover? Are you trying NOT to learn something new? There's only one way to get the genie out of the bottle. Pull the cover and either fix it or replace it.

It's all part of hot rodding. Are you trying to get out of that, too?
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No ..I know it comes with the game..will do what I have to in the end..is what it is.. always up for a new job
 
I agree with whoever said they dont like EZ outs. I use them occasionally but they are usually a last resort.
The best case scenario is when there is some bolt sticking out. Welding a nut on works 90% of the time.
 
rustyswinger said:
I think the Mig suggestion is at least one other way to solve the problem. By the way....do you usually try to sound like a condescending prick?
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Only when it seems people cower in the corner over the simplest of jobs. That was my pep talk. Trying to make him understand there's nothin to it but to do it. I like the mig suggestion. He said he doesn't have one. In the end, he'll learn something, expanding his knowledge. So, if he takes my advice, then I'll be that condescending prick, because he will have fixed it all on his own and learned something new, while all you do is insult someone whose not said a word to you.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
I agree with whoever said they dont like EZ outs. I use them occasionally but they are usually a last resort.
The best case scenario is when there is some bolt sticking out. Welding a nut on works 90% of the time.
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Amen! They are an accident waiting to happen. They were made to break.
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
I'm not offended that's how my father talks..lol
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Glad you took it the way it was intended. I was merely letting you know that it's a walk in the park. The "hardest" part is removing the harmonic balancer. You can git r done man. It's not hard.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Glad you took it the way it was intended. I was merely letting you know that it's a walk in the park. The "hardest" part is removing the harmonic balancer. You can git r done man. It's not hard.
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And removing that requires special tool..and also to install I believe but not positive
 
and don't forget you are going to need new gaskets and RTV, hell , you might as well put a new timing chain on while your in there, don't forget to paint the new cover too. shoot Willis , nows the time for that nasty cam you've been wanting to install too
 
73AbodEE said:
and don't forget you are going to need new gaskets and RTV, hell , you might as well put a new timing chain on while your in there, don't forget to paint the new cover too. shoot Willis , nows the time for that nasty cam you've been wanting to install too
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Excellent point. Also, remember, if you get hung up, STOP! There are plenty of us who have no life and are here all the time who will be willing to help.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Only when it seems people cower in the corner over the simplest of jobs. That was my pep talk. Trying to make him understand there's nothin to it but to do it. I like the mig suggestion. He said he doesn't have one. In the end, he'll learn something, expanding his knowledge. So, if he takes my advice, then I'll be that condescending prick, because he will have fixed it all on his own and learned something new, while all you do is insult someone whose not said a word to you.
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Whatever dude. I just call them like I see them
 
Go ghetto: file it flat and mount the pump back on it with a nice bead of "the right stuff" let it set up and then mount a small C-clamp over the pump and that ear (or a pair of vice-grips if your from the south!) That would get me home and probably a few weeks more until I could muster the time to pull the cover and replace it. Pulling the balancer is about 5 minutes of work once you got the loaner puller: Its a 3 flange dealio with a jack screw in the middle. Remove pulley bolt- Mount the 3 flanges of puller to the balancers inner pulley holes and start the jack screw into the threaded bore (it wont hit the threads) and then run it down to teh threads and turn it about 5 turns, it will ease the balancer right off enough so you can pull it off with your hands. Rad removal is required. installation is easier, just push it on as far as you can, then use the bolt to pull it back into the snout. Tighten to like 150 ft/lbs (in gear or with the crank blocked (use 2 long bolts in the pulley holes and wedge a tire iron between them and the frame). If you need a cover, the guy in Phoenix has one for you or I got one in Ca for postage too. Mine's even chromed...or whats left of it.
 
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