What is a 408???

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I have been running the scat cast crank with thier h beam rods for well over 50,000 miles and probably 700 runs at a hp level of about 400 hp at the rear wheels. Pulled it apart to change pistons. The crank was still straight and went right back in. The rods ends were round and spot on. I wouldn’t hestitate to run the scat cast crank kit with h beam rods up to about 500hp. The eagle cast crank won’t work at that level. As to the longevity of the block I was running the icon forged dished piston and changed to the flat top for compression. The bores were still round and straight when changing pistons.
Badass
 
I have been running the scat cast crank with thier h beam rods for well over 50,000 miles and probably 700 runs at a hp level of about 400 hp at the rear wheels. Pulled it apart to change pistons. The crank was still straight and went right back in. The rods ends were round and spot on. I wouldn’t hestitate to run the scat cast crank kit with h beam rods up to about 500hp. The eagle cast crank won’t work at that level. As to the longevity of the block I was running the icon forged dished piston and changed to the flat top for compression. The bores were still round and straight when changing pistons.
I've had also great results with a cast scat crank and I beam rods that are lighter and you're not supposed to have to Notch the bottom of the block for them to clear. Even though my block is notched. I think you'd have to race professionally to really need forged parts. I did use forged pistons though. I still use stock heads and still have plenty of time and areas to add more power up top without having to remove the engine again.
you can take the stock 360 and put some Edelbrock heads and a big Cam and get close to what a stroker does. but you would have to wind it up to make that power when you're on the street having the stroker is just instant low end tire burning right from the get-go.
 
I've had also great results with a cast scat crank and I beam rods that are lighter and you're not supposed to have to Notch the bottom of the block for them to clear. Even though my block is notched. I think you'd have to race professionally to really need forged parts. I did use forged pistons though. I still use stock heads and still have plenty of time and areas to add more power up top without having to remove the engine again.
you can take the stock 360 and put some Edelbrock heads and a big Cam and get close to what a stroker does. but you would have to wind it up to make that power when you're on the street having the stroker is just instant low end tire burning right from the get-go.
I’m thinking stock crank flattops with good rods and magnum heads.
 
Stock crank?
I don’t think so. I’m not 100% sure.
However, the have personally run a cast crank 360 in the low 12’s for years.
Honestly not sure. I’d be pretty happy with 300 horse. But Is it ever enough?
No, never, it’s a drug, you have been warned.... danger, HP junkies abound...
(Sung to the opening song of “Vikings”)
Give me more give me more give me more...
 
I’m thinking stock crank flattops with good rods and magnum heads.
Yeah it's fun cuz you can go in any direction. I've been thinking lately had I just got some Magnum Edelbrock heads intake and carburetor and just kept slapping them on 360 junkyard Magnum Motors I probably would have been doing just fine. There's a lot of different things you can do I do like the Stroker. It is fun building a kind of strong bottom end then you can just beat on it at will and know that it will never Flow enough to really hurt itself.
 
I’m thinking stock crank flattops with good rods and magnum heads.
I don't know I think there's a lot to be gained by the Magnum heads but also the extra expense and extra experience you'll need retrofitting them to the LA block. Plus the special manifold.
 
Honestly not sure. I’d be pretty happy with 300 horse. But Is it ever enough?
The horsepower is not as important with a stroker. It's the low rpm torque that can blaze the tires at will that the stroker does for you.
 
No, never, it’s a drug, you have been warned.... danger, HP junkies abound...
(Sung to the opening song of “Vikings”)
Give me more give me more give me more...
I played the video Once upon anoth thread but I could give the guy a hit, but I'm afraid he may overdose on it ???!! LOL
 
This guy is a little nuts but he's having fun. Looks like it's pretty easy to boil those hides!
 
Pretty mild idle for a 10 second car. Doesn't sound too nasty but get's the job done.
 
bores need to be notched for stock rods by about 1/4 thumbnail. The after market rods use 12pt. capscrews that dont have a nut so they are smaller in profile. IF you wanted a stump puller thats not going to see north of 400HP, an Eagle cast will do as well as cast pistons.
If you wanna believe it, I got <$500 into my stroker 403 (std bore 4.00 stroke) out the door. Eagle cast 4.00s were $250 shipped on ebay a few years ago, (holy crap, I just looked at part number and I got sent a $900 4340 forged!!! 436040006123) and I found a random set of NOS Magnum cast stroker press fit (yuck!) pistons for $100 on a chevy site IIRC. The magnum pistons have a narrower little end so I had to massage my 360 LA rods to fit. And these pistons were all over the place in weight so I had to get them all down to the lightest one and that included taking some piston pin material out a few as there was no meat left on the piston. $75 balance job handing the guy the crank and 1 complete rod/piston package that were all equalized by myself and a $7 HF .1g digital scale, very repeatable until it came to angular (rod end) weights. He ended up taking very little off the crank as the bobweight was only 24g lighter than the counterweight. No expensive tungsten needed. Have yet to assemble it. The $75 was the only machine cost I paid, everything else was garage time on hand tools. Building a stroker and not going for HP levels over 400 is a waste of time, 360 is very capable of making 400+ with a stock stroke. Some of us just like working on motors I guess.
 
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Scott has had a 408 in his 66 for years. It runs 10.75 all day long.
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I don't know I think there's a lot to be gained by the Magnum heads but also the extra expense and extra experience you'll need retrofitting them to the LA block. Plus the special manifold.
I don't know I think there's a lot to be gained by the Magnum heads but also the extra expense and extra experience you'll need retrofitting them to the LA block. Plus the special manifold.
#8---La-X and Ma-X Iron Small Block Heads These heads are the heads I want. A guy I know has some and wants $600. Those ones actually bolt on. He has then on a 318 in his 66 datt
 
I've had also great results with a cast scat crank and I beam rods that are lighter and you're not supposed to have to Notch the bottom of the block for them to clear. Even though my block is notched. I think you'd have to race professionally to really need forged parts. I did use forged pistons though. I still use stock heads and still have plenty of time and areas to add more power up top without having to remove the engine again.
you can take the stock 360 and put some Edelbrock heads and a big Cam and get close to what a stroker does. but you would have to wind it up to make that power when you're on the street having the stroker is just instant low end tire burning right from the get-go.
Yes it is most definitely "tire burning power" . At 35 MPH if I just quickly stab the pedal about 1/4 of the way the BFGs are breaking loose. I NEED sticky tires and maybe Caltracs (running super stocks right now). It's still a lot of fun on the street, the way it pulls is addicting.
 
Take a 360 and bore it .030 over, nice set of flat top pistons (10.8 app Comp), Scat rods (budget) H beem rods if you want to spend a little more, polished stock crank, ProMaxx heads, port matched Victor 340 intake, 750-850 Holley carb, .520 Racer Brown cam. It will run on 93 pump gas and probably put out 350-400 horsepower easily
 
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