What is the "perfect" street/strip package......for the average Moparian

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Like I said I won't chop and hack on my cars......am more than willing to spend more for added power to overcome the cars being heavier but that's just me.....low compression would be a no go for me also as I have been in those type cars with anemic engines and they are boring and too easy to get embarrassed.
I agree with not chopping and hacking cars. I never said anything about doing that. But there’s plenty of ways to lighten up a car without cutting it.
 
I agree with not chopping and hacking cars. I never said anything about doing that. But there’s plenty of ways to lighten up a car without cutting it.
There is only so much you can do and still have a not chopped up car......have to remember you will be adding weight for subframe connectors and a roll bar/cage of some sort too. Not as easy as it sounds once you actually start doing it outside of breaking out the saw-zall and hole saw.
 
There is only so much you can do and still have a not chopped up car......have to remember you will be adding weight for subframe connectors and a roll bar/cage of some sort too. Not as easy as it sounds once you actually start doing it outside of breaking out the saw-zall and hole saw.
Subframe connectors sure, but no I won’t be adding a roll bar or cage, and no I won’t be breaking out the sawzall.
I’m sure everybody’s idea of the perfect street/strip car isn’t the same, as illustrated by these posts. You build yours and I’ll build mine.
 
I seen this thread when it was just one page and thought...' this will be entertaining'

So page 7...

Can someone tell me what the "perfect" street strip package is yet?
Does it come with reflector scrapers, line remover, and road kill spatulas?
Is it simply a state of mine?
Is there a limit per person?
:rolleyes:
 
I seen this thread when it was just one page and thought...' this will be entertaining'

So page 7...

Can someone tell me what the "perfect" street strip package is yet?
Does it come with reflector scrapers, line remover, and road kill spatulas?
Is it simply a state of mine?
Is there a limit per person?
:rolleyes:
Yeah same thing I thought – ask 10 Mopar owners what their idea of the perfect Mopar is and you’ll get 10 different answers.
 
I seen this thread when it was just one page and thought...' this will be entertaining'

So page 7...

Can someone tell me what the "perfect" street strip package is yet?
Does it come with reflector scrapers, line remover, and road kill spatulas?
Is it simply a state of mine?
Is there a limit per person?
:rolleyes:
Fire away
 
I seen this thread when it was just one page and thought...' this will be entertaining'

So page 7...

Can someone tell me what the "perfect" street strip package is yet?
Does it come with reflector scrapers, line remover, and road kill spatulas?
Is it simply a state of mine?
Is there a limit per person?
:rolleyes:
Still waiting for someone to send me a link where I can buy some road-kill spatulas...
 
Fire away
I don't have magic answer.
We all can make something real nice and then then see how it measures up at the track to others..and fine tune.. or rethink it.
Many cams will run close, the car is an important factor.
Stock 340 with a .500 lift 280 cam thrown into it will do mid 13's all day, geometry kit, some real 1.5 rockers...that could be low 13 to 12's... headers.... etc but.. what is street strip to them or us ? I'm cool with 3200-4000 rpm on the freeway.. they might not be.. I run a stick car... any cam idles nice lmao.
After saying all that...
It ain't perfect if it isnt an auto at the track and a stick on the street... but that's just me.
Carry on.
 
build power at street friendly rpm 'idle-5000', and too build a lot power at that rpm band need large displacement and a power adder which most seem against,
Can you restate this. “To build a lot of power at that rpm band need a large displacement…”
It’s like ether missing a word or something, I’m missing the thought and thought process behind what your thinking in the engine. If that made sense?
hardest thing would be to use a mild cam knowing all that available power unused is there :)
I say yes and no to that because sometimes the available air flow needed for power within the cylinder head that is good for the build is found in, let’s say a TF head, but the low and mid lift numbers are not found else where or cheaply found, just saying for an example…

Just because the heads performance ceiling wasn’t part of the goal or reached… or taxed hard doesn’t mean it’s a waste. Your just using the best part of the head for the task at hand. I would feel guilty or maybe stupid if it was a race build and I didn’t fully utilize the heads potential.

On the wife’s 360, the cam duration is short because it fits the build of the car and it’s parts used. 3.55’s in a 26 inch tire, low-ish stall. This is street cruiser friendly stuff. The cam does lift the valve pretty good (.573) but it doesn’t get into the max head flow area. (.600-.650)
It’s really not needed. It’s only a few cfm more. Not a big loss.

The darn engine just keeps on pulling and pulling!
 
Can you restate this. “To build a lot of power at that rpm band need a large displacement…”
It’s like ether missing a word or something, I’m missing the thought and thought process behind what your thinking in the engine. If that made sense?

I mean since the rpm is fixed idle-5000 in my eg. torque is the only way to build power, bigger the displacement for more potential power.

I say yes and no to that because sometimes the available air flow needed for power within the cylinder head that is good for the build is found in, let’s say a TF head, but the low and mid lift numbers are not found else where or cheaply found, just saying for an example…

Just because the heads performance ceiling wasn’t part of the goal or reached… or taxed hard doesn’t mean it’s a waste. Your just using the best part of the head for the task at hand. I would feel guilty or maybe stupid if it was a race build and I didn’t fully utilize the heads potential.

On the wife’s 360, the cam duration is short because it fits the build of the car and it’s parts used. 3.55’s in a 26 inch tire, low-ish stall. This is street cruiser friendly stuff. The cam does lift the valve pretty good (.573) but it doesn’t get into the max head flow area. (.600-.650)
It’s really not needed. It’s only a few cfm more. Not a big loss.

The darn engine just keeps on pulling and pulling!

I get what saying, I just meant not many would build a 543 with trickflows and cam it to make power at 5000 rpm or less like in my eg.
 
I mean since the rpm is fixed idle-5000 in my eg. torque is the only way to build power, bigger the displacement for more potential power.
Yes! Absolutely!
And I see! Your “fixed” RPM is actually your intended usage area.


I get what saying, I just meant not many would build a 543 with trickflows and cam it to make power at 5000 rpm or less like in my eg.
True. Some may call it dumb. I would not give a care. I’d like to build a 500 B engine and use a TQ on a M1 single for laughs.

But the real trick in this and your idea of a build is max house displacement coupled with great flowing heads that will very much extend the rpm range of the smaller cam.

As a exaggerated example, using my B 500 above, using a set of TF heads and a mild solid flat tappet cam custom cut that is something like 240-248 @050, with a lift at the valve of .600+ seems like a small cam ready to perform up to 5500-6000, but the awesome heads and big lift allow more rpm out of the set up than normally experienced. Not that I’d have any delusion of 7K gear shifts! LOL! But I think I “could” yank another 500 rpm or so out of the normal range of the cam on what is regularly seen.

A good person to ask about this would be PRH.
 
I run pretty much what you described as your old setup....minus the DA shocks and caltracs. I love it, absolutely streetable and ran 10.66 this last weekend. If i win the lottery, i´d build a SB from a R or Ritter block, big bore and big stroke (450+ inches maybe), with a set of indys and a relatively mild hydraulic roller cam around 255@ .050". Should run 10.0s without trouble, do some better wheelies and be streetable in my opinion. That would be fun :)

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I love that '68 Valiant! I had a '67 2 dr post that was originally a 273 Power Pack car with a 4 speed and a 3:91SG and stuck a '68 340 out of an early '68 Dart GTS in it and the only street car that ever beat it (by a fender) was a '67 Fairlaine 427 2 fours car. I'd love to see your car run. Good job!
 
I love that '68 Valiant! I had a '67 2 dr post that was originally a 273 Power Pack car with a 4 speed and a 3:91SG and stuck a '68 340 out of an early '68 Dart GTS in it and the only street car that ever beat it (by a fender) was a '67 Fairlaine 427 2 fours car. I'd love to see your car run. Good job!
Sounds like the guy that had the fairlane either didn't know how to tune or drive his car as that 427 should've been at least 425 horsepower, don't get me wrong here, I know that those 340's could run.
 
Sounds like the guy that had the fairlane either didn't know how to tune or drive his car as that 427 should've been at least 425 horsepower, don't get me wrong here, I know that those 340's could run.

lot of big block cars can’t hook up in the street making it easier for the 340.
 
lot of big block cars can’t hook up in the street making it easier for the 340.
True, if you can't get traction It doesn't matter what you have. There used to be a 340 duster that was down on hall street in st.louis back in the day and I don't know if it's true or not but apparently the owner added headers, gears, stall converter and had it dyno tuned and supposedly it ran low 13's.
 
Still waiting for someone to send me a link where I can buy some road-kill spatulas...

Gonna need a BIIIIIIIIG Spatula...
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In soviet Russia, animals make car into roadkill!
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If were talking N/A I am going to say from experience a stroked small block, 550 to maybe crowding 600 hp, a lightweight 904 trans with appropriate mods for the build, a good 8" converter again built for the application, double adjustable shocks, Caltracs, 4.10 gears and a 275/60/15 drag radial and you have a killer street strip package that is balanced well and is crazy fun on the street and is to be honest a perfect E.T. range to race in come the weekends.
I don't think that there is a perfect street / package. If you build it for double duty chances are that your going to what big power for the track which in turn will make your car less street friendly. I don't know about your area but were I live there's no place to go racing anyway. It's hard to have your cake and eat it too. Myself, I'd probably build a engine that has great throttle response, good low to midrange torque.
 
Sounds like that would be a bad azz setup......only part of that I couldn't do is get one down to 2500 lbs probably as I just can't seem to get past the cutting and removal of metal to make that happen.

Mid 80's Daytona or Charger would do the trick. With the short wheel base you'd have to stay on top if it all the time or you'd get in trouble quick.
 
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Like I said I won't chop and hack on my cars......am more than willing to spend more for added power to overcome the cars being heavier but that's just me.....low compression would be a no go for me also as I have been in those type cars with anemic engines and they are boring and too easy to get embarrassed.

I'm in the same boat, my Dart is 3350-60 with me in street trim. It's been mini tubbed but that's it. The vents, radio (doesn't work), all heater components and wipers are still it and I'll not remove them to get weight out. The way my car sits now it would easy to put back to stock appearing if one wanted.

I'll never have a car with good power without a roll bar and frame ties. Aside from the safety aspects it keeps you from killing the car. I added 2 x 2 welded in frame ties to mine first and could tell a difference just driving it, the car felt tighter. The roll bar stiffened it more.

At first weight is easy to remove, lighter front brakes, aluminum heads and intake, lighting bumper brackets, fiberglass hood and front bumper and a lot of small stuff. But then come the things that add weight back, roll bar and frame ties, the R block alone was about 60 pounds heaver than the 360 block it replaced. Moving the battery to the trunk adds weight for the extra cable and the necessary components for the wiring. Plus my car picked up nothing after the change.
 
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I don't think that there is a perfect street / package. If you build it for double duty chances are that your going to what big power for the track which in turn will make your car less street friendly. I don't know about your area but were I live there's no place to go racing anyway. It's hard to have your cake and eat it too. Myself, I'd probably build a engine that has great throttle response, good low to midrange torque.
550-600 hp is not really what I would call "big power" but it is the meat and potatoes of what you will find at the track on an average day and also when done correctly that same car drives around no different than most peoples daily drivers outside of some creature comforts.....I think the hang up with some is that you never had a car like that and in your mind you feel it can't be done.....well it does get done in many different combo's and it's a shame that more don't understand that and are really missing out on some great packages.
 
Mid 80's Daytona or Charger would do the trick. With the short wheel base you'd have to stay on top if it all the time or you'd get in trouble quick.
I WOULD LIKE A MID TO LATE 80'
Mid 80's Daytona or Charger would do the trick. With the short wheel base you'd have to stay on top if it all the time or you'd get in trouble quick.
I would love a mid to late 80's Daytona as a hot rod but most if not all the ones I have seen for sale that have had at least some of that conversion done already are too race car for my taste as I don't prefer tubbed cars and gutted aluminum interiors.......BUT if one popped up with a small tire package and still factory looking interior that would certainly get me salivating.
 
I'm in the same boat, my Dart is 3350-60 with me in street trim. It's been mini tubbed but that's it. The vents, radio (doesn't work), all heater components and wipers are still it and I'll not remove them to get weight out. The way my car sits now it would easy to put back to stock appearing if one wanted.

I'll never have a car with good power without a roll bar and frame ties. Aside from the safety aspects it keeps you from killing the car. I added 2 x 2 welded in frame ties to mine first and could tell a difference just driving it, the car felt tighter. The roll bar stiffened it more.

At first weight is easy to remove, lighter front brakes, aluminum heads and intake, lighting bumper brackets, fiberglass hood and front bumper and a lot of small stuff. But then come the things that add weight back, roll bar and frame ties, the R block alone was about 60 pounds heaver than the 360 block it replaced. Moving the battery to the trunk adds weight for the extra cable and the necessary components for the wiring. Plus my car picked up nothing after the change.
Good detailed response.......and correct.....Thanks.
 
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