What is the "perfect" street/strip package......for the average Moparian
- Thread starter '68cuda416
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'68cuda416
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Never.....ever.....infact wouldn't even slow down to look at it, would refuse a ride and now I may just have to wait longer to eat lunch as i'm feeling physically ill.....
That’s exactly why there a sticky!
The more information that the poster puts into the post the better it will be for the next guy reading to know what it takes to run the time and perhaps, save themselves a little cash and a lot of grief.
I'd LOVE a 10 second streetable N/A actual 318, just to
the 340/360/stroker guys. 
"318 Four Barrel" Emblem "Update"
justinp61
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See post #293 in the link below. It didn't run a 9 but 10.008 is pretty close. It's not in the post but the heads and intake are ported.
post your 9second and quicker combo's here! | Page 12 | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum
Technically any street legal car could be street/strip if you regularly take it to the track.
To me a street/strip is basically a race car that still technically streetable, Low 12 or quicker. Hot street your basic mid 12 - low 14 car, peppy mid 14 - low 16, mid 16 an above non performance. Obviously there's some cross over leeway.
To me a street/strip is basically a race car that still technically streetable, Low 12 or quicker. Hot street your basic mid 12 - low 14 car, peppy mid 14 - low 16, mid 16 an above non performance. Obviously there's some cross over leeway.
justinp61
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What is a "street car" has been beat to death several times on this and other forums. Build what you are comfortable with, from mild to wild. If some wiener wants to get his panties in a wad because your likes and his don't align, it's on him. We would live in a very boring world if we all had the same tastes.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
My perfect street/strip (more "hot street") build...
Magnum 360 block.
4" steel crank.
About 9-9.5:1 compression, to run <91 octane gas.
Good aluminum heads, CNC ported, probably Edelbrock. Maybe Speedmaster.
Heads modified externally with the outer surface roughed up to look like iron.
Single-plane intake, ported and matched to the heads.
1000cfm ThermoQuad, thin plastic spacer.
Whichever cam Hughes suggests.
TTI headers, 3" exhaust to the mufflers, 2.5" tailpipes with resonators.
Mopar electronic distributor.
Engine should be installed in an A-body, with a Silver Sport 5-speed and 3.23 gears. Engine should also be dressed to look like a stock engine, should pass for a 318 as long as nobody pulls the air cleaner lid. If anyone asks, it's a stock 318 with headers.
Magnum 360 block.
4" steel crank.
About 9-9.5:1 compression, to run <91 octane gas.
Good aluminum heads, CNC ported, probably Edelbrock. Maybe Speedmaster.
Heads modified externally with the outer surface roughed up to look like iron.
Single-plane intake, ported and matched to the heads.
1000cfm ThermoQuad, thin plastic spacer.
Whichever cam Hughes suggests.
TTI headers, 3" exhaust to the mufflers, 2.5" tailpipes with resonators.
Mopar electronic distributor.
Engine should be installed in an A-body, with a Silver Sport 5-speed and 3.23 gears. Engine should also be dressed to look like a stock engine, should pass for a 318 as long as nobody pulls the air cleaner lid. If anyone asks, it's a stock 318 with headers.
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
Interesting you make mention of the 1000 cfm Thermoquad as my plans for my fathers 68 GTS 340 is to replicate loosely what the F.A.S.T guys are doing with everything essentially looking stock and my plans for that engine is an R3 block, 440" cu, lot of compression, ported W2's, heavily modified and ported LD340 intake to accept either the early 850 competition Thermoquad or the 1000 cfm one whichever is deemed best at that point.....I have all 4 versions of those carbs, extrude honed exhaust manifolds and a Nascar style mechanical fuel pump with 3/8" ports. The whole thing will look as stock as possible and will probably be my favorite and most special build.My perfect street/strip (more "hot street") build...
Magnum 360 block.
4" steel crank.
About 9-9.5:1 compression, to run <91 octane gas.
Good aluminum heads, CNC ported, probably Edelbrock. Maybe Speedmaster.
Heads modified externally with the outer surface roughed up to look like iron.
Single-plane intake, ported and matched to the heads.
1000cfm ThermoQuad, thin plastic spacer.
Whichever cam Hughes suggests.
TTI headers, 3" exhaust to the mufflers, 2.5" tailpipes with resonators.
Mopar electronic distributor.
Engine should be installed in an A-body, with a Silver Sport 5-speed and 3.23 gears. Engine should also be dressed to look like a stock engine, should pass for a 318 as long as nobody pulls the air cleaner lid. If anyone asks, it's a stock 318 with headers.
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
Do you have actual plans for this build or just a dream build.......would love to hear how the big Thermoquad's manners are on the street. I have read that they aren't much.....LOLMy perfect street/strip (more "hot street") build...
Magnum 360 block.
4" steel crank.
About 9-9.5:1 compression, to run <91 octane gas.
Good aluminum heads, CNC ported, probably Edelbrock. Maybe Speedmaster.
Heads modified externally with the outer surface roughed up to look like iron.
Single-plane intake, ported and matched to the heads.
1000cfm ThermoQuad, thin plastic spacer.
Whichever cam Hughes suggests.
TTI headers, 3" exhaust to the mufflers, 2.5" tailpipes with resonators.
Mopar electronic distributor.
Engine should be installed in an A-body, with a Silver Sport 5-speed and 3.23 gears. Engine should also be dressed to look like a stock engine, should pass for a 318 as long as nobody pulls the air cleaner lid. If anyone asks, it's a stock 318 with headers.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I would love to do a W2 build someday. Just something mystical about them, seems like they were the top dog most of my younger years. Add that you could do a build that looks stock like suggested just adds an extra level.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
Not yet, working on getting a car first. Honestly, I'm not sure I will ever FIND a 1000cfm TQ.
Though Mopar Action has had one on one of their project cars (72 Road Runner, 451ci 400) for over 20 years. It's a demand carb...tune it properly and I don't see any reason it wouldn't be perfectly fine on the street. Heck, the factory put 800cfm TQ carbs on <200hp smogger 318s.
Topless69
Well-Known Member
Man. Talk about opening up a can of worms...
I may be on the opposite end of the spectrum (not commenting on my mental state here), but a few years ago I would’ve said put a mildly modded low deck big block in a 2nd gen Barracuda notch with a 727, a GearVendors OD and a 3.91 out back, but with the cost of gas and everything else going up and no end in sight, I think now I’d go with a 360 magnum built for torque with a 5, 4 or even 3 speed trans and set up the rear end accordingly. I’d use any kind of tricks I could to lighten up the car, keep the cr moderate so as to use regular pump gas and you’d have a beautiful, quick street car that wouldn’t embarrass itself at the strip.
I may be on the opposite end of the spectrum (not commenting on my mental state here), but a few years ago I would’ve said put a mildly modded low deck big block in a 2nd gen Barracuda notch with a 727, a GearVendors OD and a 3.91 out back, but with the cost of gas and everything else going up and no end in sight, I think now I’d go with a 360 magnum built for torque with a 5, 4 or even 3 speed trans and set up the rear end accordingly. I’d use any kind of tricks I could to lighten up the car, keep the cr moderate so as to use regular pump gas and you’d have a beautiful, quick street car that wouldn’t embarrass itself at the strip.
Put a LS in it.
If I was to build a serious street strip car, I'd want It mild and fast so I would start with lite car under 2500 lbs with me in it, stroker big block probably 543 cid trick flow heads and a baby size hydraulic roller cam that makes peak power under 5000 rpm and add either 300-500 hp of nitrous or turbo for 800-1000 hp. Causes Of high hp at low rpm lite car and quick 1/4 mile It would only need highway gears plus very little stall.
Would be a very streetable car with a mild idle, would also add a gearvendor so it would almost idle down the highway.
Would be a very streetable car with a mild idle, would also add a gearvendor so it would almost idle down the highway.
The phenolic resin main body can be made wider in the barrel. Don’t change the size of the bottom plates throttle bore. This would require an angle adjustment of the throttle blades. Just hog out the main body.
The primary booster can be whittled with a demel. Just remove the outter ring. Narrow the legs, call it a day.
Im gathering a few parts to do a modified TQ video. Though it’ll be a while before I get everything gathered and the video done, it should help you out a hood bit in getting more flow out of your TQ.
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
The overdrive aspect would be nice and they are now done by multiple companies and are able to withstand some serious power too.......Thanks
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
Look forward to the videos
No doubt. A high torque decent rpm B.A.E.!
I like your thinking.
(Big *** Engine)
In a stupid light car with an OD to boot, oh yea!
I like the high flow head with small cam & big lift combo.
It’s working well in my high compression 360.
Obviously I was just dream bench racing the core principles can be used at any scale, main one is to build power at street friendly rpm 'idle-5000', and too build a lot power at that rpm band need large displacement and a power adder which most seem against, the hardest thing would be to use a mild cam knowing all that available power unused is there
Topless69
Well-Known Member
Agreed, but you’re also adding weight and complexity. That’s why I said these days I’d rather have a lightweight car with a 5.9 magnum built for torque with a low CR and a manual for a street/strip car since you’re going to be spending 90% of your time on the street, maybe more than that with all the dragstrips closing.
'68cuda416
Well-Known Member
Like I said I won't chop and hack on my cars......am more than willing to spend more for added power to overcome the cars being heavier but that's just me.....low compression would be a no go for me also as I have been in those type cars with anemic engines and they are boring and too easy to get embarrassed.
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