Which block to start my build?

-

67_Slimer

Real Hot Rods don't shift themselves.
Joined
Sep 28, 2021
Messages
422
Reaction score
502
Location
USA New England
So I’m going to be slowly building a small block stroker with a 340 block. I have 2 340 blocks ready to go. Just curious which one you would recommend I use. One is a 1971 date code virgin bore , the other is a 1970 date code .060 over. I’m going with a 4 inch stroke , high compression aluminum headed high performance build. Could be a stupid question but I figured why not ask before I go forward. Thank you in advance.
 
People always ask what type of build (stock build , street/strip etc.) just thought I would add that in advance.
So, what's a high compression aluminum headed high performance build mean? That could mean a TON of different things.

I'd go with the std bore block btw - if it's in good usable shape.
 
Not sure what the downfall of a 72 date code block? What's the vin? 71 or 72? I havent done comparisons 71 vs 72, but the crank(forged vs cast) and maybe slightly lower compression?
I’m with you but heard people say that a 71 date is technically a 72 date blah blah blah. I’m leaning towards the virgin bore but just trying to see other views. Thank you.
 
So, what's a high compression aluminum headed high performance build mean? That could mean a TON of different things.

I'd go with the std bore block btw - if it's in good usable shape.
Just was in general. Meaning not a stock build. Thank you for your input.
 
So I’m going to be slowly building a small block stroker with a 340 block. I have 2 340 blocks ready to go. Just curious which one you would recommend I use. One is a 1971 date code virgin bore , the other is a 1970 date code .060 over. I’m going with a 4 inch stroke , high compression aluminum headed high performance build. Could be a stupid question but I figured why not ask before I go forward. Thank you in advance.
Neither, use a 360 and save the 340s
 
Take both blocks to a good machine shop, have them tanked and then tested for bore wall thickness. Even a standard block could have core shift and not be the best candidate, where a .060 over block could test out as having plenty of room...
 
What are your piston choices size wise?

Btw I'm in agreement, sell the 340s buy a good 360 block. Then you have the room to do whatever bore stroke you want
 
I have done it both ways. A few years back, I sold a running 340 to build a roller block 408. My current engine is a virgin bore 340 stroked to 414. People are willing to pay up for 340s and you can use that to your advantage. Sell those blocks and you could have a nice down payment on a hot 408.
 
I would get the .060 block checked for cyl thickness and use it if it's good.. A virgin block is only going to be worth more and more in the coming years.. nothing wrong with .060 if it checks good.
 

How much wall thickness do you guys like to see? .150 front and back and .125 on the sides?
 
What are your piston choices size wise?

Btw I'm in agreement, sell the 340s buy a good 360 block. Then you have the room to do whatever bore stroke you want
So I understand with the stroker crank , I won’t notice any difference between a 340 or 360. I understand that but my initial plan was to build a stock stroke 340 , that’s why I have those blocks. I figured all the work is done on them so why not use them. I mean how much can I possibly get for the blocks and caps? It’s not life changing so I’d rather use what I know is good and ready.
 
So I understand with the stroker crank , I won’t notice any difference between a 340 or 360. I understand that but my initial plan was to build a stock stroke 340 , that’s why I have those blocks. I figured all the work is done on them so why not use them. I mean how much can I possibly get for the blocks and caps? It’s not life changing so I’d rather use what I know is good and ready.
the virgin block.. $1500+ if it was not machined or anything....

340 at .060 with a 4" is 422".. get a 4.180 kit and you have 441 inches :)

just sayin.... :)
 
-
Back
Top Bottom