Yet AGAIN more W2 360 talk

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Rat Bastid said:
Well, it doesn’t make more power if the gasoline tune up is correct.

If you have cooling issues, fix the system. I just laying out the facts of the matter. I was using alcohol in customer cars since 1984 and my own stuff starting in 1988. Id never use it again unless I was running a blower of some sort.

Lots of tuners are not really tuners. Alcohol covers their sins.
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i don't care if you ''claim'' to have been using methanol since 1984, who gives a ****. you still don't understand methanol by the sounds of it.

run your carb and have fun, but don't spread lies about methanol that you obviously haven't caught on to the benefits of methanol.
 
gagembassett said:
No clue yet but we're gonna find out LOL. But honestly if they don't fit then I'll just get a custom set of 14:1 of forged slugs made for the 3.79 stroke
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gagembassett said:
Factory length 6.123
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I thought so.

But you're right it would be a huge jump in compression if you use the rods and pistons designed for a 3.58" crank on a 3.79" crank. Probably bent rods and crashed valves too if it ever made a rotation with the heads on.
 
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gagembassett said:
So many of you have followed my posts on a 600 horsepower W2 headed 360 block I am in the process of speccing out to build. The engine will be going in the pictured 1983 Dodge D150 longbed that weighs 3,700 pounds and will be backed by a Liberty proshifted A833 4 speed transmission along with a properly built 8 3/4 rearend with unknown gears at the moment (I'm assuming 4.56, 4.89 or maybe even 5.13 gears) and my original plan, and still may be, was to keep the stock stroke of 3.58 inches along with 12:1 TRW forged domed pistons and rev it up to 7,000 rpm with a properly designed and ground solid roller cam from Racer Brown. Now for the twist in my thoughts from the original idea...... I am currently tossing around the thought of using the stock stroke 3.58 inch 12:1 domed pistons and putting them on a 3.79 inch stroke crank to do a HUGE bump in compression.... talking like north of 14:1 maybe even 15:1 compression. Now I'm tossing this idea around for 3 reasons. Slightly longer stroke to help produce torque faster for the 3,700 pounds it's gotta shove off the starting line, to help with that compression all along with allowing it to still rev to 7,000 with the mild length stroke addition and because with a .030 overbore it bumps it up to 386 CI which displacement always is a plus. I was in talks with one of my very very knowledgeable friends that has an old crank from the 80s that was welded and offset ground to 3.700 inch stroke to bring low compression factory pistons up to zero deck and we both talked for a while on this, he was interested in my idea which got me EVEN more intrigued to do it because if that intrigues him them I've made a break through LOL. Now I want your thoughts. Give me any and all of your feedback. Time for us big boys to talk the talk

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Call me stupid but why are you trying to build for torque with a 7,000 rpm range and those gears, AND an 8.75 AND zero ******* weight over the rear axle?

Not only do I feel dumb as a box of rocks, I am confusion!
 
79410aspenrt said:
i don't care if you ''claim'' to have been using methanol since 1984, who gives a ****. you still don't understand methanol by the sounds of it.

run your carb and have fun, but don't spread lies about methanol that you obviously haven't caught on to the benefits of methanol.
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Pretty much everyone I have talked to that made the switch from gas to alcohol on a race car like it. It seems the brackets racers like it because the car changes less due to weather changes, makes it easier to dial.
 
gagembassett said:
I have another good friend that is running one behind a 3,400 pound car with a 4 speed as well. If it blows then it blows and I'll go Dana 60. The rearend is not my priority in this list at all, I'd much rather focus my time and effort on the engine because a rearend is far easier to build and swap than an engine but that being said I did ask for all input so I appreciate yours
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Sell the 8.75 and talk to Cass at Doctordiff.com have him build your Dana 60. Now.
 
Ottmundr said:
Sell the 8.75 and talk to Cass at Doctordiff.com have him build your Dana 60. Now.
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Didn't Dodge quit using the 8 3/4 in their trucks sometime around the mid 70's? If he has a 8 3/4 I'd say someone changed out the factory rear.
 
79410aspenrt said:
and what maintenance is that?
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Fuel system cleaning, carb bowl cleaning, emptying the tank, diluted oil, way more frequent oil changes blah blah blah. For a race car it’s just maintenance, really no big deal. For a street strip car, it’s excessive and gets old real quick.
 
Ottmundr said:
Call me stupid but why are you trying to build for torque with a 7,000 rpm range and those gears, AND an 8.75 AND zero ******* weight over the rear axle?

Not only do I feel dumb as a box of rocks, I am confusion!
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For the exact same reason that people build 4 inch stroker builds and get them up that high and with a 4 inch stroke that's worse than what I'm doing. It's not like I haven't taken any consideration to all the other factors. You failed to read that I am prioritizing the engine first before I move on to other things. Do 40 different projects and once and your progress in going to be VERY ******* slow. Focus on one then go to another. One step at a time not the entire stairway at once...
 
TT5.9mag said:
Fuel system cleaning, carb bowl cleaning, emptying the tank, diluted oil, way more frequent oil changes blah blah blah. For a race car it’s just maintenance, really no big deal. For a street strip car, it’s excessive and gets old real quick.
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So far I’ve had no issues running methanol. My oil doesn’t get milky, never drain my fuel system between race weekends.
The only thing I do after each pass is take my breathers off my valve covers for a few minutes and let the moisture evaporate. Oil stays perfect.

end off season, I drain my tanks, spray WD-40 in the barrel valve, and change oil. That’s it.
 
79410aspenrt said:
So far I’ve had no issues running methanol. My oil doesn’t get milky, never drain my fuel system between race weekends.
The only thing I do after each pass is take my breathers off my valve covers for a few minutes and let the moisture evaporate. Oil stays perfect.

end off season, I drain my tanks, spray WD-40 in the barrel valve, and change oil. That’s it.
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Pretty similar to what my buddy does. He doesn't start his engine unless he's going to bring it up to running temperature.
 
79410aspenrt said:
i don't care if you ''claim'' to have been using methanol since 1984, who gives a ****. you still don't understand methanol by the sounds of it.

run your carb and have fun, but don't spread lies about methanol that you obviously haven't caught on to the benefits of methanol.
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Didn’t know I was going to trigger a sissy fit. Alcohol isn’t faster or better than gasoline unless you have a junk cooling system and you can’t tune.

Simple as that.
 
justinp61 said:
Pretty much everyone I have talked to that made the switch from gas to alcohol on a race car like it. It seems the brackets racers like it because the car changes less due to weather changes, makes it easier to dial.
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That’s exactly what I said. It has a HUGE tuning window and virtually every bracket car out there has a marginal cooling system at best.

That’s exactly why bracket racers flock to it.
 
So back on the original topic for the question. What does everyone think with the 3.79 crank with stock stroke pistons?
 
gagembassett said:
So back on the original topic for the question. What does everyone think with the 3.79 crank with stock stroke pistons?
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I honestly don't see that working out. Too much $$ involved in that build to cut corners.

On another note...While the rear end has already been discussed, if you end up making the power you want, and you find a way to get it hooked with a LWB truck, PLEASE budget for a blowproof bell, a serious driveshaft with multiple loops & some good Motor/trans mounts.
 
gagembassett said:
So back on the original topic for the question. What does everyone think with the 3.79 crank with stock stroke pistons?
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I reckon you will probably run the pistons into the heads. But I'm not a "big boy" when it comes to these engines (most of our stuff came with 273s or 318s so haven't had much to do with 360s) how far down the hole is a stock 360 piston?
 
OldmanRick said:
I honestly don't see that working out. Too much $$ involved in that build to cut corners.

On another note...While the rear end has already been discussed, if you end up making the power you want, and you find a way to get it hooked with a LWB truck, PLEASE budget for a blowproof bell, a serious driveshaft with multiple loops & some good Motor/trans mounts.
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yessir. flywheel clutch, bellhousing, shaft loop has been briefly covered in my head. Not too far in depth though to be completely honest. Mounts had not been considered yet.
 
After thinking about this, quit screwing around with a small block.

 
One of my major concerns for me would be clamping the heads on a la or Magnum style small block with the bolt per cylinder pattern of a small block Mopar they're not really great high compression friendly motors. blowing head gaskets it's a major pain.
 
Ottmundr said:
Ok buddy. I gave what I considered to be decent advice, and was met with derision scorn and excuses as you desire to keep the second dumbest drivetrain possible, at least it isn't a 7 1/4 2.76 pegleg. I see further aimless rambling on your part and after getting fed up with it, tell you to stop. I get told to get bent? Don't listen to my or anyone elses' advice, blow up your diff and be the asshole who spreads lubricant all over the track wasting everyone's time. Just stick with your 8 3/4, go with a high torque build, wind it out to 7k and run 4.56 or lower gears. Have fun wasting time and money and welcome to ignore when you ask for advice.

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No no no what you did what instead of giving constructive criticism and being consistently tolerable you went straight for an insult. You are an unoriginal, follow the trend asshole that is unwilling to try to creative combinations just for the hell of it. For you the 408 stroker is probably the only engine that matters and your opinion was irrelevant **** and your insult was unnecessary and now you are back pedaling trying to say you were somehow being helpful.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Didn’t know I was going to trigger a sissy fit. Alcohol isn’t faster or better than gasoline unless you have a junk cooling system and you can’t tune.

Simple as that.
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Ok I get it already (I’ll type slower so you can follow), you know nothing about methanol and what benefits it has. Carry on with your crap. Can’t fix stupidity
 
79410aspenrt said:
Ok I get it already (I’ll type slower so you can follow), you know nothing about methanol and what benefits it has. Carry on with your crap. Can’t fix stupidity
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Ok smart guy. You win. You are THE forum expert on alcohol. Doesn’t make you right, because you ain’t.

I did point out what was GOOD about alcohol, but you evidently didn’t read that part. I’ll say it again for you to get through your thick head.

If, and it’s a big IF you have an issue cooling your engine, alcohol will help. It’s not the right way to cool it, but it is what it is.

Alcohol has a very, VERY wide tuning widow. You can be far past rich best torque and not lose ANY power. Therefore, weather changes has LESS affect on the tuneup at any given time.

So...all that means is I can fix my cooling system (don't need my fuel to cool my engine) and I can follow the weather and dial my car accordingly. So again, I don’t need alcohol.

If someone has an aversion to using a proper cooling system, and if someone has trouble tuning for the conditions then by all means, alcohol is your friend.

I can say I’ve taken at least a dozen circle track cars off alcohol and not one has gone back. And they have won many races and a couple of track championships. I won’t bother explaining to you what burning 2.5 times the fuel during a race does to chassis tuning, because YOU are THE alcohol expert.
 
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K.O. SWINGER said:
One of my major concerns for me would be clamping the heads on a la or Magnum style small block with the bolt per cylinder pattern of a small block Mopar they're not really great high compression friendly motors. blowing head gaskets it's a major pain.
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Who told you that, because it simply isn’t true.
 
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