65 dart not charging with new alternator

[Shaun65dart]

Hey guys. Frustrated because I’m having trouble figuring this out. 65 dart gt slant 225. All stock besides Petronix ignition. My bearing went bad in my square back alternator. I have two wires in addition to the battery wire. The two wires are green and other is white. On the replacement alternator, looks like there is one terminal for a field wire, and the battery post. When I hook up the alternator with the green field and battery post wire, it’s not charging. The other field wire is just hanging there. I read if you ground the other field to the casing, that should do the trick but it does not. How can I wire this alternator to work correctly? Here’s a picture of the back of my new alternator and the one I took out

 

[66Valiant528]

Someone put a later 2 field alternator in the car . Get a 72 up squarback.

 

[Professor Fate]

...And when you get the new alternator, have them test it right away before you even leave the store. Some things you learn the hard way!

 

[67Dart273]

Shaun what kind of regulator do you have? 70/ earlier which belongs on the car, and ONLY can be used with the alternator you bought, or the 70/ later "flat" electronic one which has a one piece triangular connector on the alternator. If so you need a 70/ later alternator and I (as mentioned above) would aske for a 73/ later to get "square back"

YOU CAN EASILY test it right on the car. Jumper 12V to the single field terminal and it should charge "full blast." The one you removed, can be tested same way, just ground either field terminal and feed power into the other one.

LOOKING at the photo, I am guessing it has been converted to the later 70/ later (which was a roundback with two field terminals) or 72/ later (which is squareback with two field terminals)

 

[Dana67Dart]

Assumptions...

1. Your current bad alternator is the square back one in post #1
2. The round back photo is a stock photo of a single field wire round back alternator
3. The parts store gave you an alternator based on the car not the current alternator setup.
4. You have done some testing by shorting to ground some of the field wires ( you may have damaged the voltage regulator)

At this point you need to post photos of your voltage regulator
Your current alternator and wiring
And the replacement alternator.

That way we all are on the same.

My best guess as was noted in earlier posts...

Your alternator and charging system was changed at some time to the newer style that uses an electronic voltage regulator and two field wires on your alternator.

You purchased an alternator for the origional car which would have been a mechanical regulator and only one field wire.

After we see photos we can advise, but I would unhook the field wires till we know what you are working with

 

[Mattax]

All stock besides Petronix ignition.

Well you may call it stock but that's confusing those who are trying to help here, and maybe you too.

You've discovered and shown us in previous threads that this car's wiring has been through various alterations and repairs.
Recently you discovered the previous owner made some changes between the time of the sales ad and actually selling you the car.
None of my factory gauges work 65 dart gt

Hard to forget the thread with the damaged battery wire on the ammeter, the push button switch, and some extra sqreeze terminals on the starter relay junction.
Can someone help? I need to drive my dart tomorrow
In that final photo it looks like a grounded field alternator and an electronic version of the matching regulator.

All square backs were isolated field alternators, although you can always ground one of the brushes.
That's shown here: Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)

 

[Shaun65dart]

Well you may call it stock but that's confusing those who are trying to help here, and maybe you too.

You've discovered and shown us in previous threads that this car's wiring has been through various alterations and repairs.
Recently you discovered the previous owner made some changes between the time of the sales ad and actually selling you the car.
None of my factory gauges work 65 dart gt

Hard to forget the thread with the damaged battery wire on the ammeter, the push button switch, and some extra sqreeze terminals on the starter relay junction.
Can someone help? I need to drive my dart tomorrow
In that final photo it looks like a grounded field alternator and an electronic version of the matching regulator.

All square backs were isolated field alternators, although you can always ground one of the brushes.
That's shown here: Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)

Appreciate the reply. From what I can tell,
My dart engine is stock besides the pertronix ignition. The PO added a fuel level guage since the original wasn’t working. I’m still learning what’s been done to this car so just trying to work thru it. You referenced a thread posted by me about a previous 65 dart which doesn’t apply in this case since it was a different car. I had a square back alternator that was charging the car just fine. So I’m going to take the advice on here and replace with the newer model alternator that I seemed to have instead of the one that supposedly fits my 65 originally that I basically made a mistake in buying. I’ll let you guys know how it goes thanks

 

[Dana67Dart]

So I’m going to take the advice on here and replace with the newer model alternator that I seemed to have instead of the one that supposedly fits my 65 originally that I basically made a mistake in buying. I’ll let you guys know how it goes thanks

Rather than throwing more money, post photos so we all can help you understand what is really going on.

All advice you have been given here is pure speculation since you have not provided photos.

I don't understand your reluctance to post photos.

 

[Mattax]

an isolated field alternator, regulator and wiring is not stock for 1965
you need to determine what that white wire connects to; ground, the regulator, or ???

 

[67Dart273]

A. So I’m going to take the advice on here and replace with the newer model alternator that I seemed to have instead of the one that supposedly fits my 65 originally that I basically made a mistake in buying. I’ll let you guys know how it goes thanks

Have you actually READ anything that I posted?

 

[pishta]

IIRC the dual field required a hot ignition to one field and a ground to the second for full boogie output. There were a few round backs that had isolated fields, maybe the first year of the electronic voltage regulator? The old regulators were duty switched with points, on-off-on-off to regulate an average of 14.5V or whatever it was designed to run on. the new electronic regulators used a variable resistance ground to output a constant 14.5V (or whatever they were designed to) to work the new electronic ignition. The square backs were modular in the diodes could be serviced without pressing anything out. If you had a squareback in there and it was charging, you need another isolated field alternator (square or late round) and match it up wire for wire. You may just need a brush or 2 in your old squareback. they are $2.99 a set at a better auto parts store and about 5 minutes of work. And DITTO on testing the 'rebuilt' alternator you buy at a parts store, Many rebuilds wont even pass the machines test procedure. If you were closer to Tustin, Id give you one (oops, I gave them away already)

 

[pishta]

#3 is an isolated field 70-71 roundback

 

[RustyRatRod]

Have you actually READ anything that I posted?

Now why would he do a FOOL thing like that? He might actually fix somethin.