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Still have my 1st one. My cable comes out the front and over the top of the trans comes out just over the top of the starter and loops back to go to the trans. The loop goes between starter and the block.

I forgot that I had these. Magnetic/filter inline for trans or power steering. One is 5/16 the other 3/8.

Check with your local Napa Auto Parts they should have a universal inline trans filter kit, or supplemental filter. It uses a high flow hydraulic filter. We used to put them on our Isuzu NPR tow trucks because the factory filters would let to much crap thru. Tractor Supply offers a hydraulic...

good learning experience huh been there spooged that myself

Older cars can be push started with an automatic if they had a rear pump. Iv'e used this before when I had the motor and trans in my wagon. Luckily I was parked on a hill when the battery took a chit.

I was going to have it done by JAWS in Sacramento. They quoted around $200. They are a rear end specialist. The only reason I didn't go with them is because I picked up a new Moser narrowed 9" with axles.

Probably a bad joint. Especially as it changes with wheel speed and such. Time to go under and poke and prod, and don't forget to yank on stuff to. I would have someone else hop inside and pull it forward when it makes the noise so you can walk around and try to pinpoint the noise area.

bolt a long length of chain "about 10ft or so" thru the access hole in the end of the axle and loop and bolt it thru a spare tire and wheel. Give the tire a hearty throw as straight out in line with the axle as possible. Lower the car down as far as you can so as to not drop the car when this...

This calls for one of my dads favorite quotes "And what have you learned from this experience?" This was usually said to me while I'd be holding a bloody rag or shirt on some body part of mine as my dad got out his stitching kit.

65's are hit and miss on the tailshaft. Early 65's probably have the ball and trunion, whereas the later ones will have the slip. Use up the last of the old before putting in the new.

Back in my wrenchin for money days I had one where once I got the drain plug pulled and waited for the oil to run out, It wouldn't come out. It was pretty much baked in place, I wound up filling it fresh fluid, driving it for 10 minutes to run it thru, and draining it again. Did this 4 times...

I have a lokar throttle and kickdown. Their directions sucked as* but if you work on cars enough you'll figure it out. As they are on the lame side of copies of copies from the old carbon mimeographs crappy. But the product is nice.

possibly a 8 1/4. Count the bolts holding on the diff cover typically 9 bolt for the 7 1/4 and 10 for the 8 1/4

That conversion was done to my parts car. Maybe this pic will help with the trunion breakdown, and there is a guy who usually has them on ebay for around $125 for the kit.

Hardware store in the plumbing section. Heavy walled rubber cap used for testing drain pipes. Already had a hose clamp to hold it in place to. You can even mount up a filler port with a valve and gauge to bleed off the pressure so you don't take a bath. Probably make a nice setup for less...

I always put fluid in the convertor and oil the outer mating surface. This way you don't burn the front seal and pump etc..

Not necessarily cheap. Some of that Beer is expensive!!

Spider gears tend to blow apart in the 7 1/4. They fly sometimes to, right thru the cover. But you can have fun with one before you yank it and turn it into a Lincoln or Miller Locker.

Then you tell them how much it would cost to have a shop do it and they don't mind so much.

Is it the same as the one for running a bunch of carb pieces and a intake manifold thru the dishwasher??? Or the one when they stub their toe on the engine stand in the livingroom?

If not point him towards me for anything else possibly neighbor.

My 7 1/4 went bang and alot of crunch crunch. One of the spider gears didn't like it's home anymore so it left the housing. In a big hurry, luckily enough there was enough carnage to bind up everything enough to putt home. I think it had somthin to do with the 1 mile 1 legger burnouts. But...

I'm using a lokar kickdown and throttle cable setup. I'm quite happy with it myself. Instructions sucked but I worked thru it.

Either straight into the pan or you can put a junction block in the tranny cooler line. But the pan is best in my opinion. And you will have to put your own insert in the pan unless you have or get a aluminum pan. Then you can just tap it and use the bushing that should come with the kit.

I tried with a quarter stick. And no go with the slider setup. Not without alot of mods. But I didn't put a whole day looking into it or cutting anything.

The 8 1/4 I have is two inches to wide to begin with. And I figured that if my trap speed was approx 90mph than that one side was spinning maybe double that. I think I'd die to. I was given a 9" housing along with a 3.50 locker center. And I picked up another center also with a 3.50 and...

My rear is dying. It's a 8.25 with what gears I don't know. I think the last time at the track and buzzing one tire a couple of times the whole 1/4 might have somthin to do with it. As long as it will last till I put together my ferd 9". That's all that matters. Only reason for the ferd is...

Pinion came loose it looks like. Not all the way to lock it up I would believe just grind it down a little.

I'm not sure of which one is which, but I think one is of the cone type, and the other the clutch type. The clutch type is readily rebuildable, whereas the cone can be but requires machine work.

Is that because of the high ratio? I think it has 2.79's