Search results for query: *

6-point snapon would more than likely get it off, too bad I am not closer, I'd bring some over and take it off for you.

also look for a pulley that is bent or wobbling a bit! I have seen that cause belts to come off.

solid lifters? Yes, they are going to be a bit noisier than hydraulics......

yep, those holes like to leak... permatex on the threads as suggested before.

I'd definitely pull it out and check ALL of them, I also agree with pressurizing it to make sure there are no leaks. I have also seen engines crack in the valley under the intake but to pressurize that, you would need to build plates to block off the water ports in the heads as well...

X2.... used a piece of heater hose I had laying around many times.... works great. just clean the end you stick up to your ear! LOL....

should be driver side on the front... if it is erratic, there are other issues, if carb is clean and not messed up, I would expect you have a vacuum leak or some other reason for low vacuum

if it has been sitting a long time, I"d suspect rings stuck in the grooves and not doing their job. some lightweight oil in the cylinders may do the trick or they may stay sticky till it is pulled apart. You said you checked the bearings and whole shortblock, did you have the heads off and not...

I have a stealth on my barracuda (360) with no issues.... have an air-gap RPM on my wife's 68 Mustang and it is very cold blooded even in the summer (sits all winter) and really doesn't run right till it warms up for 10-15 minutes or so....

I have one of the c-clamp type. If you want to bring your heads over when you get your springs and seals, we can swap them pretty quickly. Also, use a bit of grease on the inside of the retainers to hold them onto the valve stem when you are putting it back together..... keeps them where you put...

cast iron rings are black. Moly would be the shiny chrome look

I have a cheap HF dialback I got when my Craftsman finally died and I was wondering the same thing. I borrowed 3 other timing lights from my dad (Craftsman, Actron, and Heathkit I made a long time ago) and all 4 read the same with the MSD on my Barracuda. I agree with Moper, I don't think it is...

I had a set on my 360.. broke 2 adjusters, called the place I got the mfrom and they sent me 2 new ones at no charge (and a spare one as well). They would have sold me a whole set of adjusters for 8$ or something... Anyway, I took them off when I found the broken adjusters and tossed them under...

interesting read, makes me wonder about doing that with the 360 that is already in my 69 barracuda instead of going to a 440 (which I have sitting on the engine stand) OK, done wondering, I think the 440 won! LOL

drill and tap them. I had the same issue the first time I swapped engines in my 69 Barracuda. I bought a set of cheap headers (before I knew all the issues with fitting them) and welded tabs on the bottom of the flange to cover the holes... ugly but it worked....

Depends on your funds available. As has been stated, you can get a 360 or a late 80s 318 from a wrecking yard and drop it in. You may even find a mid-late 80s car (think grandma's car) with <100K on it and be able to drive it and check it out. Pull the engine, and send the rest to the scrap...

easiest thing to do is swap in another 318. If you go with a mid-late 80s (roller cam) make sure you drill and tap the smog ports in the heads or you will have 8 exhaust leaks! (ask me how I know... LOL) you can keep your original 318 in the corner of the garage if you ware worried about #s...

In park the pump is not circulating fluid. Put it in neutral and it will circulate. Engine will warm up faster than the tranny, need ot get it up to temp and let the thermostat cycle a couple times. I normally like to let them run for 30 minutes or so... (I like to rev it up every now and then...

I had the same thing happen on another cheaper brand. I had 2 broken ones, I called, they said they would send replacements for the broken ones free of charge or send me a whole set for 15$. I told them to just send me the replacements for the broken ones and they sent me 3 free. I am not...

I am assuming you took the 2 bolts out going into the bottom of the timing cover through the oil pan? It sounds like you either missed a bolt or two or that one that broke off is corroded into the timing cover. If you are sure you got all the bolts out, you may need ot heat the timing cover a...

depending on the size and location of the crack, you may be able to use the manifold to get home. A crack may leak a bit but it may not be a huge deal and at least get you home so you can figure out what you want to do as a permanent solution.

I always balance mine, I figure for the extra couple hundred bucks, if it runs smoother, gets a few more HP, and lasts a bit longer, it is money well spent.

since the end studs go into the water jacket, it is a lot cleaner to keep them as studs. If you use bolts, whenever you pull them out, you will get a puddle of water dripping out onto the floor.

can you get visegrips on it to get it out? Unless the threads in the head are buggered up, you should be able to get it out and the head should be fine.

my basic rule of thumb has been pinging=too advanced, dieseling on shutoff= too retarded. There are many other things though as well that can cause it. Bumping the timing up a couple degrees and shutting it back off is a pretty easy test though.

if I am pulling them out together, I find it easier to take the inspection cover off and take the 4 torque converter bolts off with it in the car. Then the car is holding the engine and trans solid while you turn the bolts and spin the crank over....

I would have the rotating assy re-balanced.

I swapped from a 318 to a 360 in my 69 cuda. The 360 will have a different timing chain cover and the timing marks will be on the opposite side. Water pump has the lower hose on the opposite side as well. If you put your early water pump on it, it is a pain to see the timing marks. If you swap...

deepends on what you want from it? gas mileage.... power, I'd go with the 360 for the reasons Salty pointed out. Both would cost about the same to build as far as parts, but 42 cubic inches is... well... 42 free cubic inches!

I normally do one at 500 miles (driven at different speeds but not getting on it hard, of course) then change again after another 1500 miles and then at your normal intervals after that. I just use whatever oil I'm going to run. The 2nd one may be overkill but, I figure it is cheap insurance. X2...