Sure hope that's it, everything else is as normal as can be.
273 questions...a few of them
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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ColoMopar
Well-Known Member
The 273 commando engine that car started life with had dome top pistons to make 10 1/2 to 1 compression. The block that Steve is using is a plain old 273 with flat tops. Wouldn't that give him even more valve to piston space?
Not unless he has over stock diameter valves. All the pistons have reliefs cut in the tops for valve clearance.
It should, but something has to be causing it. The crank sprocket is the only thing that wasn't right. I asked about coil bind, Steve said he saw none.
I also asked if they shipped hydraulic lifters as he would need a shorter pushrod for those, he said he compared old and new with a rod in them and they were the same height. I dunno, process of elimination I guess.
I also asked if they shipped hydraulic lifters as he would need a shorter pushrod for those, he said he compared old and new with a rod in them and they were the same height. I dunno, process of elimination I guess.
Asked about that too, he has reliefs in the pistons.
Bulldozer
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again, just another thought, it may not hurt to pull a head to find out if a valve is actually making contact with a piston if moving the crank sprocket wasnt the issue.
Morning everyone...LOL. Sucks we wont know the answer really until Saturday, but gotta wait for the 2 pushrods.
Prior to dad and I taking engine apart, this was a running engine, as verified by Jimsduster and Sprecks. Although it sat for a while, thats why we did a teardown, to re-gasket and re-seal
Pistons were never taken out and like badsport said they have valve reliefs
I used new comp springs in the kit, and I saw no coil bind, but will dbl chk on Saturday
I agree with ya'll in the sense that retarding it shouldnt make that much difference in the clearance, but like badsport said, its a process of elimination and we spoke for hours and couldnt come up with anything. Im hoping to be able to competently use a degree wheel as well so to eliminate any other possibilities.
Here are some pics for reference, block with pistons still in it and new cam installed.
Pics of lifters old on the left, new on the right
Pics of new valve springs installed, showing a difference in valve stem height.
Prior to dad and I taking engine apart, this was a running engine, as verified by Jimsduster and Sprecks. Although it sat for a while, thats why we did a teardown, to re-gasket and re-seal
Pistons were never taken out and like badsport said they have valve reliefs
I used new comp springs in the kit, and I saw no coil bind, but will dbl chk on Saturday
I agree with ya'll in the sense that retarding it shouldnt make that much difference in the clearance, but like badsport said, its a process of elimination and we spoke for hours and couldnt come up with anything. Im hoping to be able to competently use a degree wheel as well so to eliminate any other possibilities.
Here are some pics for reference, block with pistons still in it and new cam installed.
Pics of lifters old on the left, new on the right
Pics of new valve springs installed, showing a difference in valve stem height.
Double check the cam for free rotation before you install anything. Make sure it spins smoothly.
EDIT: Steve do you see any marks on the pistons where a valve may have touched it, check that while the heads are off.
EDIT: Steve do you see any marks on the pistons where a valve may have touched it, check that while the heads are off.
Bulldozer
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Steve, if your curiosity is killing ya, you can still put the crank sprocket and valve train on and spin the motor around without the two pushrods and lifters to find out if the 4* was the issue....maybe my curiousity is killing me LOL
isnt the lifter on the right a hydraulic lifter?
isnt the lifter on the right a hydraulic lifter?
We spun the motor over yesterday with rocker shaft assemblies removed, spins nice. Heads are on it, those block pics are from a week ago. Yep a 1 day project has turned into a never ending one....LOL
73abodee, those are the new type of solid lifters.
Bulldozer
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gotchya, i havent bought a solid lifter in years.
sorry im not much help here, i just cant see why this is not working. from what i can see, you are doing everything right.
sorry im not much help here, i just cant see why this is not working. from what i can see, you are doing everything right.
ColoMopar
Well-Known Member
Not likely unless he took them out, that engine ran the way it was before he changed the cam
Just thinking here, is there a certain way to install the new solid lifters??
ColoMopar
Well-Known Member
Last post was supposed to be way up there, LOL
Bulldozer
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make sure you cant plunge that lifter with a pushrod.
That's right, I remember you saying that now. Did you take the intake back off? If not maybe you should so you can watch everything while rotating the assembly.
I wondered if maybe one of the lifters is/was hanging up in a bore, but that wouldn't explain the bent pushrod.
Will dbl chk that, but if that was the case, you would think we would be having opposite problems??
Bruce, intake is off and staying off until we get the valves set.
Is there a right or wrong way to install new lifters??
Even so on the lifter you are not "pumping" them up at this point.
Bulldozer
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break in lube and slide them in. hydraulic lifters need to be pre-loaded with oil before installation, but that should not apply here if those are in fact solid lifters. you cant put them in wrong..
I didnt think there was a right or wrong with the solids, dad presoaked them in oil for a while, but thats bout it....
I suppose you could put them in upside down, LOL.
Bulldozer
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