340 Stroker Build Need LOTS of Advice

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manual discs will stop quite easy with a small master cylinder.
keeps things simple and a nice clean engine bay.
 
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@MOPAROFFICIAL
You mean I cant run an open diff and do one wheelie peelies "as my nephew would say" with this set up lol

I plan on having this car for many years to come, Ive owned it since I was 21. It should be pretty rock solid on that side, even put on a driveshaft loop this summer.
If you guys have any input on other parts to upgrade i.e drivetrain, please feel free to throw it on here! I think the rear end and suspension is set for right now. I have the leafs put on that I wanted and an 8 3/4 that a ring and pinion shop helped me go through 2 years ago.
 
A few of us could recommend you a cam that would make it produce a lot of power with those components, but...

Would you go along with the required drivetrain parts to make it all work right?
Considering he wants what I think is 100% streetable like grandmas car but with a ridiculous set of balls, I find it weird and difficult to suggest a cam.

Such a small cam is in a way laughable considering the other better components on top of 418 cubes. Could have stuck with the stock displacement and been good.

230/236-on a 112 for reduced overlap and vacuum to operate power brakes. Get as much lift in as you can and use 1.6 rockers.

This ought to produce Himalaya size torque lines.
 
Run a sure grip equipped rear!

Screw the peg leg. That would be a waste.

Other ideas???

4spd auto A-500
 
Considering he wants what I think is 100% streetable like grandmas car but with a ridiculous set of balls, I find it weird and difficult to suggest a cam.

Such a small cam is in a way laughable considering the other better components on top of 418 cubes. Could have stuck with the stock displacement and been good.

230/236-on a 112 for reduced overlap and vacuum to operate power brakes. Get as much lift in as you can and use 1.6 rockers.

This ought to produce Himalaya size torque lines.
If it was readily on hand... .528 solid with 1.6 rockers would idle mildly lumpy "like 340 stock" in that cid and not dramatically shift the torque hardly at all, just allow it to hp longer yet stay broad in the power curve like stock.

Generically put... a 278-280 degree advertised duration with .500-.550 lift and about 242-248 @.050 110-112, with maybe a few degree adv on the intake lobe.

Converter?
 
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Hey guys, whats wrong with a grandmas car! Jk

I want it to run pretty hot, in the end all I want is vacuum brakes and also Im trying to be modest online. You hear people say its a street car BUT I want to go to the drag strip a couple times a year...in the end, its just a street car lol

I have another car that has way to big of a cam for it, and when I slow down it loses power brakes. Other people find it hard to drive when I let them, but I dont mind it for me. Purchased the vehicle this way.

@Mopar, and @rumblefish360
Thank you for your guys info. This will be a fun project and get me in the garage more frequently.

@ir3333 When I pull the other engine out, I will clean up some wiring/hide it, and paint the engine bay. The previous owner painted it flat black, not a huge fan.

I will post pics if anyone is interested once I start getting parts and putting it them together.

Stay safe, have fun. Thanks for everything guys
 
Figure out a goal for power and build to the goal.

A cam as small as a voodoo 268 will make around 450hp with stock ede heads and Air gap intake. Ported that can jump to the 480 range.

It would sound docile.

If the intake is a 318/360 model it's going to choke the engine without some port work to it and a spacer. If it's a Perf RPM, that's a different deal. I'd sell a 318/360 and get a RPM or Air Gap for the stroker.
 
@duster3

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I’d have no problem doing this myself with that below.


And more food for thought;
 
Very compelling argument with a cam around .545 lift and unmodified edelbrocks to build a 360 instead of a 408/410
..more efficient too!
 
Ehhh, true... but the strokers torque advantage is significant.
 
an even greater spread for the op...he's basing his 418 on a 340.
It begs the question ..How much do you want for a street machine?
 
If it was readily on hand... .528 solid with 1.6 rockers would idle mildly lumpy "like 340 stock" in that cid and not dramatically shift the torque hardly at all, just allow it to hp longer yet stay broad in the power curve like stock.

Generically put... a 278-280 degree advertised duration with .500-.550 lift and about 242-248 @.050 110-112, with maybe a few degree adv on the intake lobe.

Converter?

That cam range sounds about right to me for a streetable easy to tune and keep in tune deal.

On the upper end of duration range with typical off the shelf cams, would grinding it on a 112 centerline be needed/helpful for vacuum?
 
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So I am resurrecting an old project of mine. I bought an old 340 motor from a friend, tore it down. Had it chem dipped and sonic checked, which turned out good. Then came into some money issues"got married" haha so I sprayed oil on the block, shrink wrapped it and put it away for a few years. Now its time to build again!
I am looking to do a 416ci build. Let me tell you what I have/want and maybe get some advice from you guys. It will be a STREET car, I want enough vacuum for power brakes.

The big questions I have are what cam shaft specs and what pistons to use. Hopefully be in between 10-10.5 Static Compression on +91 gas.

Here we go

~340 block .030 over
~Edelbrock Aluminum heads Performer RPM, Aluminum, Assembled, 65cc Chamber, 171cc Intake Runner
~Edelbrock 750 Carb
~Edelbrock Performer Intake
~Long Tube TTI Headers

I have never done the math on how to make a good motor, nor do I know how to. Mostly just throwing stuff together for old vehicles. But I would like to do this right, the first time.
These are the two rotating assemblies I was looking at. Big Question, Flat top or Dished Piston for the compression I am looking at.

Balanced:Yes
Pistons Included:Yes
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Head Volume (cc):+5.00cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel

Or

Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam
Piston and Ring Oversize (in):0.030 in.
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style Dish, with a D-shaped cup
Piston Head Volume (cc):+20.50cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam

Any other info you guys need just let me know, thank you for the help in advance. Also if you guys have any tips/ tricks from past experience, I will be like a sponge absorbing knowledge.
Thanks again!
So I am resurrecting an old project of mine. I bought an old 340 motor from a friend, tore it down. Had it chem dipped and sonic checked, which turned out good. Then came into some money issues"got married" haha so I sprayed oil on the block, shrink wrapped it and put it away for a few years. Now its time to build again!
I am looking to do a 416ci build. Let me tell you what I have/want and maybe get some advice from you guys. It will be a STREET car, I want enough vacuum for power brakes.

The big questions I have are what cam shaft specs and what pistons to use. Hopefully be in between 10-10.5 Static Compression on +91 gas.

Here we go

~340 block .030 over
~Edelbrock Aluminum heads Performer RPM, Aluminum, Assembled, 65cc Chamber, 171cc Intake Runner
~Edelbrock 750 Carb
~Edelbrock Performer Intake
~Long Tube TTI Headers

I have never done the math on how to make a good motor, nor do I know how to. Mostly just throwing stuff together for old vehicles. But I would like to do this right, the first time.
These are the two rotating assemblies I was looking at. Big Question, Flat top or Dished Piston for the compression I am looking at.

Balanced:Yes
Pistons Included:Yes
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style:Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Head Volume (cc):+5.00cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel

Or

Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam
Piston and Ring Oversize (in):0.030 in.
Piston Material:Forged aluminum
Piston Style Dish, with a D-shaped cup
Piston Head Volume (cc):+20.50cc
Wrist Pin Style:Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included:Yes
Crankshaft Material:Forged 4340 steel
Engine Balance:Internal
Connecting Rods Included:Yes
Connecting Rod Material:Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style:I-beam

Any other info you guys need just let me know, thank you for the help in advance. Also if you guys have any tips/ tricks from past experience, I will be like a sponge absorbing knowledge.
Thanks again!
a well tune 340 is a handful on the street .put your money in the drive line good converter and rear end ,good axles and the right gear and have fun for a long time .
 
Ehhh, true... but the strokers torque advantage is significant.

@Rumblefish
That is the main reason for wanting a stroker engine. Torque is fun. I would guess my goal is over 425 hp and torque, it would make me pretty satisfied with this particular vehicle. But I wouldnt mind more than that either
 
That cam range sounds about right to me for a streetable easy to tune and keep in tune deal.

On the upper end of duration range with typical off the shelf cams, would grinding it on a 112 centerline be needed/helpful for vacuum?
I typed up a big long reply and then pushed post reply and it told me I had to log in, again, so I did...then it says security error and trashed the entire post....
Lost the desire to do it all over, here's the short....To an extent, yes we are trying to keep some vacuum and the o lap in near 56-60 for example, so wider side we stay to a point. but if max torque is more so desired you can narrow the lobe center and not raise the over lap if you lower the duration, lift follows because it's all a balance act .. so 106 and 108, they could work at like 260's duration and lesser lift and not increase o lap and hurt idle, but it'll look small on paper. Lol
I think the 268, previously mentioned by someone else, is too small for the head potential...but OP acknowledges he has to sacrifice potential for drivablilty.

I play with this pos app for fun.

Screenshot_20180214-083830.png


Screenshot_20180214-083820.png
 
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@MOPAROFFICIAL
Thats a bummer it crashed on you, sorry to hear that

@hooterville express
Thats true that you can have fun with a normal 340, but a 416 is something that I have been thinking about for years after I put the engine away in the garage. I just think that it will be a fun car to drive and knock the tires loose...even better then now. Plus it helps out run some of my old chevy buddies in there Novas and chevelles
 
@MOPAROFFICIAL
Thats a bummer it crashed on you, sorry to hear that

@hooterville express
Thats true that you can have fun with a normal 340, but a 416 is something that I have been thinking about for years after I put the engine away in the garage. I just think that it will be a fun car to drive and knock the tires loose...even better then now. Plus it helps out run some of my old chevy buddies in there Novas and chevelles

Did it 2 more times, as why it posted half typed. Lost interest.
 
Did it 2 more times, as why it posted half typed. Lost interest.
I have been having the same issue. Hey call it “Posting Hell!”

By the way, now your really talking cams and at this point most people’s eyes grey over like a deer caught in the headlights look come over them and everything is lost.

This is why I stay the K.I.S.S. Path.
 
I have been having the same issue. Hey call it “Posting Hell!”

By the way, now your really talking cams and at this point most people’s eyes grey over like a deer caught in the headlights look come over them and everything is lost.

This is why I stay the K.I.S.S. Path.

It crashed on me just like that trying to post also. Wants me to login but not already am. Lost the post too.
 
I have to log on every time I come here.

When I built my Dart years ago I started with a 340, 11.4-1, ported Edelbrocks and Hughes hydraulic cam. It ran 7.24 @ 94 mph uncorked and low 7.30's in street trim. Before I built the 408 the heads were sent off to be freshened and have 2.055 intake valves installed. The 408 was 10.8-1 with a Hughes solid, better headers, intake and a 950HP. I was hoping for 6.90's when it was tuned, the first time out it ran a mid 6.70 spinning. The first time it hooked up it ran 6.64, the second time it hooked up it broke an almost new set of Richmond 4.30 gears. After going through the 727 to make sure all was okay a new gear set and bearings were installed in the 8 3/4 and it was sold complete and a new narrowed Strange 4.10 geared S-60 was installed. It ran 6.57 @ 104 with a 1.38 60' several times.

I loved my 340 but with a stroker you get big block torque in a small block package. In my case there was no comparison in the fun factor between the 340 and 408. Your mileage may vary.
 
Keeping your cam duration on the lower side will help your lo end torque.
...many 4" stroke small blocks will break loose easily in 3 gears but a warm 340 with a 9 1\2. converter will
be a handful too and may very well be quicker street light to street light and get great milage too if it matters.
Call Richard at Ultradyne and tell him what you want.
 
I went the Eddie headed 340 11.0 comp 550 lift 240 + duration @050 single plane intake 750 Barry Grant, 3500 stall 727 trans 4.30 & 3.90 rear gear in my Duster when I first built it, it was fun for around town but it wouldn't rip the tires loose at will 265/60/15 BFG drag T/As oh and not a great converter. The 7200rpm rev limit was fun and the sound glorious but out on the open road 70 mph SUCKED. I ended up starving a main for oil in an extended power run and spun a main bearing. Being dissatisfied with the 340s torque and rear gear highway manners I chose to build the 340 block to a 422 as the bore was already .060 over. I honed the block and ordered the parts for the stroker. Changed the gears to 3.23 bought a tremec TKO 550 and would never go back to a stock stroke motor. The torque increase is so addictive stab the throttle melt the tires roll the throttle in high gear and accelerate with diesel like pull.
Two best things I've EVER done to a car big cubes in a little package and the 5 speed manual .083OD. Is it the quickest, no it ran 12.4 @118 mph 2.0 sixty foot at 4500 actual elevation the density that day was crap and racers said corrected altitude was near 8000. I have been clocked @172 mph and I have gotten over 22 MPG. Oh and a ticket at a 102 on coast down from much faster.
I'm excited for you to get a stroker good luck and happy building.
 
cam and rear tire size are critical in a 340.
The stock cam is around .210 / .220 or a smaller .204 / .214 .429 /.444 with stock 14" tires will be a ton of fun and pull hard on the street.This would not be a good combination for the strip by todays standards.
... 255 or 275 60 tires and a big cam can be very disappointing in a small cube engine.
 
Seriously 245s with a 416?
Shoot; a hot 318will melt those to 40/50 mph. A hot 360 will break 'em loose at 50plus in second gear with 3.55s
That needs a rethink right there or the stroker IMO is a colossal misapplication. I had to go to 295s to get even a small semblance of traction with my 367. Even 325s spin thru two gears, in my 68 Barracuda at 3650 street pounds..
A Duster has the same basic rear tub size, so .............why in the world 245s. That's got to be a typo......lol.
The Wallace calculator has an interesting bit of math, that correlates your cylinder pressure and volume into a ratio that is useful to estimate low rpm performance. When I input the required numbers for my engine,it spits out a VP ratio of 148 or more, which I know is a tire-shredder . A bet strokers start at close to 180, which makes it 180/148= about 22% more powerful than mine, in that rpm range. So If I can spin 295s thru 2 gears,and well into third gear; imagine when the stroker will stop spinning, with 245s,lol.
At least mine spins in a straight line,lol. When I had 245s on it, that car was mostly out of control. It did things to me that were down right savage. 275s were not much different, sending me in circles at the slightest provocation. 295s are manageable, for this old cowboy..
My 325s are best, but they rub a bit on the inboard sidewalls, around turns, with a bit too much throttle,so like most of the time,lol..But they do pretty good in a straight line.Plus I'm not fond of the dance they do back there on slow turns.But most of that is my fault for putting them on 10s.
In any case, you need to address the rear suspension .
 
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