440/4 speed install, which method?

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1967formulaS

1967formulaS

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My 67 barracuda has had its engine out, for what feels like forever, and I'm almost at the stage to put it back in.
When I pulled it, I left the 4 speed in place.( with the fork left in there)
What's the best method for a reinstall.
1. Lower engine back in and stuff around lining the clutch etc back up.
2. Pull the 4 speed out, install the engine and then put the 4 speed back in.
3. Pull the 4 speed out and bolt it to the engine and drop the while assembly in from the top ( if that works?)
4. Drop the k frame etc and install it all from the bottom. ( I'm not keen on this idea)
Note: my car is a factory big block 67, so it has that massive k frame and the mounts are a ***** to line up. I'm thinking to remove the mounts, lower the engine in, get it nice and low to line the clutch up, slide it back, jack up the front of the engine, install the mounts and bolt her in.
Thoughts... Suggestions....
 
#4...by all means. It is NOT difficult, and in reality, it how how the factory did it. I have done dozens this way for decades....mostly Hemis in 67-76 A bodies, preferably by myself.

Make it easy on yourself and pull the steering column out of the motor bay. The master cylinder and brake lines can stay.
 
The factory way is the ONLY way, unless you like white trash scratches in your engine bay.
do it. You'll love it. It's a way of life.
 
#1 is an easy to do and if your careful, it'll leave the paint fine. Drop cloths! Protect the paint. Install headers after the engine is bolted to the trans. Everything else afterwards.
 
What do you have for equipment?

2/4 post hoist?
'Ell of a good cherry picker?
Can you weld and fabricate?
 
>I've done it every way but always with SBs. I like #2.
>As to #4, I made a carriage, to support the engine/trans/K in the exact right position, to drop the body down over it,using a hoist. I used it once.
>But then I built a real nice engine tilter, and so I now use #3.

If I use #1, or #2, then I adjust the rake of the car in front to back plane so that the trans is parallel to the floor. Then I can drive the trans straight into the back of the engine, or the engine straight back to the trans. I also use 3inch line-up pins (bolts with the heads cut off and screwdriver slots cut into the ends), to guide them together. I don't know if the above method will work with a BB,never having installed one.
But with my new Passon Performance aluminum mainbox and the GVOD aluminum tailhouse, the M/T only weighs 85 pounds, so now I hoist it up and slam it in there, with the car on a 4-post lift. There was this one summer.........when I was experimenting with street-slick-shifting,and trans ratios, and trying to use synthetic oil, and tuning that incredibly harsh CFII, that this light weight came in real handy. It got to the point that with the car on the hoist and up, and all the right tools on the cart and under there with me, it was 17 minutes to remove the D-shaft/exhaust/etc, separate the GVOD off, pull the stick, and rip her out. I have witnesses,lol.
BTW; I highly don't recommend the A833od for anything over teener power. I had several transmissions I was experimenting with, and occasionally in the heat of battle,forgot which one was in there.And if you accidentally shift into od under power, ZING!, it's Gone, Kaput, Stripped,Busted.I even ripped the input teeth off one of those.
I got tired of that and went back to the regular A833 direct4th, and shelved the CFII disc.No more issues.
I now have some interesting overdrive desk-art.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
I've done it every way but always with SBs. I like #2.
But I built a real nice engine tilter, and so I now use #3.
Click to expand...
I have never done it, but going in from underneath sounds way easier than fighting it by yourself , going in the top.
 
I like to assemble outside and install as a unit.
Installing the assembly from the top has drawbacks as noted above. If you have a deep oil pan on your 440, it eats up the clearance between the K-member and firewall. You'll understand what "shoehorn" in A-body terms means afterwards. It helps to lift the rear of the vehicle.
Best way, I'll agree, is install the assembly from the underneath with K-frame.
Either case you need to be exact on the mounts to get the assembly in and positioned where it belongs.
 
Thanks guys.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a hoist and I am restricted with height in my shed.

I do have a decent engine crane and load leveller, so I'm thinking I'll put the rear up on ramps to give it some rake and some clearance for the trans, hood off, steering column out, bolt the engine, clutch and 4 speed (18 spline) together and
Sling it in that way. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
 
I've put the engine back in with the trans in place and it's a bit of a pain, especially if you are running the Dakota pilot bearing. I'd pull the trans out and either go in from the bottom or put the engine in first by itself. As stated above it is easier if you pull the steering column.
 
I use my engine hoist to lower the car over it. I use a 4x4 length of wood between the frame rails inside the engine bay and my lift chain around the wood. This is done in a 1 car, under my house garage with a std garage door and 8' ceiling. It's easiest and quickest doing them as a unit with the suspension from the bottom. Many think it's too much work, but having done them for years over the fenders - from the bottom is the only way to fly. And it lets you detail it completely without leaning over the fenders. Stop thinking about it, and just do it.
 
Attempt 1: Well guys I worked on the Cuda over the weekend. Since the trans was already sitting in position I tried installing the engine in from the top. I got it real close, about 1/2 " between bellowing and H lock but couldn't line the shaft up so it would slide in place.
Attempt 2:
Pulled motor out, Removed Hurst shifter, removed trans. Sat trans on a milk crate, engine back on crane, checked my clutch alignment with the alignment tool. Slid the trans in. At this point I was about 1/4" gap bellhousing to block. Wiggled trans around, put in a couple of bolts and I was just on the dowls. Tightened up the bolts. It didn't go together easily.
Lifted it I'll in position and dropped the while assembly in from the top. Just cleared at max lift on my engine crane. Once trans was under, used another trolley jack under trans to level it out. Moved whole assembly back to line up my mounts and lowered her down. Spent the next few hours installing everything else and was ready to run the cam in...super relieved it was all in and excited to finally start it. Turned her over and click click click.... ******* battery. Read 12.9V but indicator on battery said recharge. That battery been sitting for a few months and I had it on charge overnight. :(

DSC_0812.JPG


DSC_0814.JPG
 
Almost impossible to lower it in from the top if you just have a chain on the intake manifold. You need a pivot plate so you can swing the trans down and then pivot it back up into place. Only takes me a few minutes to pick the engine up off the floor and drop it into the car using the pivot plate.

DSC_0954 (Large).JPG
 
I'll be getting one of those for sure. :)

Got a new battery today. Fingers crossed and turned the key. Click click click. Nothing. :( gonna pull the starter and bench test it. If it's not the starter or connections, I hate to think what else it might be.
I used a pry bar to turn the flywheel over by hand. It's tight but it turns....
 
It's confirmed, the starter **** itself. What do you guys suggest for 440/4 speed mini starter. I'd like one that doesn't have the connections close to the engine block if there is such a thing.
 
you are killing yourself with the old school in from the top install......quit horsing around and put it in from the bottom. ....then sit back , have a cold one .....and tell yourself how easy it was.
 
It didn't go in easy - you had to pull it in using the bolts, and it doesn't turn over easy. Never mind the starter, I have other concerns. Did you dial the bellhousing?
 
Having done it both ways, I vote for number 4 in the A body. Just watch when you pull your T-bars that you dont nick them trying to remove them. That's the hardest part in my opinion. I ruined a set of .94s when the removal tool slid back on me cause i failed to have it tighten right. Gouged the bar.
 
moper said:
It didn't go in easy - you had to pull it in using the bolts, and it doesn't turn over easy. Never mind the starter, I have other concerns. Did you dial the bellhousing?
Click to expand...

No I didn't dial the bellhousing. Even though I know I should have.
I'm using exactly the same setup as last time. Crank bearings even the same size.
It wasn't super tight, and I only had to pull it in maybe a few mm with the bolts. Turned out to be one of the dowls had an edge on it.
Anyway, put my new starter motor in, new battery, fresh fuel, plugs leads etc.
Making a new oil priming tool on Monday, and then we are ready to fire this fish up.

DSC_0829.JPG
 
After the cams run in, I plan to make some decent msd leads to size, do something with the engine bay wiring and modify and wrap my headers. I'm getting there slowly....
 
Hey question: probably a dumb one.
Number 1 piston ATDC on compression stroke and the rotor points to just before the number 1 lead on the dizzy cap.
See pic. And my pointer.
Should I move my leads so number 1 was where number 2 was or to where number 8 is or just leave it there and play with the advance??
Got 65psi oil pressure,
Got spark. At coil lead. Will check at plug end.
Got fuel
New battery
New starter
New plugs
A couple of pumps and she is firing (wants to start) but not enough to run.

DSC_0830.JPG
 
1967formulaS said:
My 67 barracuda has had its engine out, for what feels like forever, and I'm almost at the stage to put it back in.
When I pulled it, I left the 4 speed in place.( with the fork left in there)
What's the best method for a reinstall.
1. Lower engine back in and stuff around lining the clutch etc back up.
2. Pull the 4 speed out, install the engine and then put the 4 speed back in.
3. Pull the 4 speed out and bolt it to the engine and drop the while assembly in from the top ( if that works?)
4. Drop the k frame etc and install it all from the bottom. ( I'm not keen on this idea)
Note: my car is a factory big block 67, so it has that massive k frame and the mounts are a ***** to line up. I'm thinking to remove the mounts, lower the engine in, get it nice and low to line the clutch up, slide it back, jack up the front of the engine, install the mounts and bolt her in.
Thoughts... Suggestions....
Click to expand...
tumblr_ovius3vcYf1tbu65mo1_500.jpg
 
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