67 Dart Build Triangulated 4 link & Mini Tub

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Looks like you have plenty of room at the front edge of your fenderwell. That's usually the interference point on A bodies with taller/bigger tires.

Don't worry about tire growth, usually doesn't happen with radials, unlike bias tires that tend to increase in diameter with wheel speed.

Looks good.

Yeah I kinda have a Cartoon thinking curve on alot of this stuff...haaaa
 
You have a lot of room up front. Thats where my ET Drags rubbed at over 140. I had to move my rearend back 1/2 inch to keep me from having to buy slicks every time I went to the track, serious grooving. I didn't notice any negative effects from moveing the axle back but then again that car handled like a soup sandwich if ya know what I mean.
 
Looks like you have plenty of room at the front edge of your fenderwell. That's usually the interference point on A bodies with taller/bigger tires.

Don't worry about tire growth, usually doesn't happen with radials, unlike bias tires that tend to increase in diameter with wheel speed.

Looks good.

I agree with the information minister 8) Looks good!
 
Louis it looks a little too close on the outer wheel lip...you gonna lose the mouldings and bend the lip up for more clearance?
 
Louis it looks a little too close on the outer wheel lip...you gonna lose the mouldings and bend the lip up for more clearance?

No there is no need to do that. I have about 3/4" of clearance which is plenty.

On my 70 Dart I can barely get my finger in it and I have never rubbed at all in any driving condition. I didn't cut that car either, left it factory. Trim and everything.
 
MD,
After assembling it all somehow the clearance I thought I had disappeared. I have 0 at the fender and 2 1/2" inside.
I am still considering the options.
Andrew
 
MD how wide is your axle from monnting surface of the wheel to mounting sueface. If you posted it I'm sorry I can remember or find it.
 
awsome build. i may have some questions coming your way when i start my 4-link:read2:
 
MD,
After assembling it all somehow the clearance I thought I had disappeared. I have 0 at the fender and 2 1/2" inside.
I am still considering the options.
Andrew

Did you already shorten your axle??

I almost had the same problem and was going to have my axle shortened 2.75" on each side. I decided to RE Mock it up before I took it in to be shortened and found my measurements were wrong. I needed to take 3.75" off each side.

03ramit1;MD how wide is your axle from monnting surface of the wheel to mounting sueface. If you posted it I'm sorry I can remember or find it.

It has been awhile now, it is in the tread somewhere.
 
Hi Louis,your moving along well.I moved my rear back 3/4 too,my rear is narrowed to 46 5/8.I have 15x12 Weld ProStars with 29.5x15x12 stuffed in the minitubs.I trimmed the lip 1/2 inch,but still have a very small rub on the inside when turning.Guess I,ll be getting some 29.5 x 11.5x15,s for spare.I only hear it rub when coming back on the return lane which is on abit of an angle.Great work your doing,did you get the Ron Francis wiring harness?I,m thinking of getting one for the 66 Dart which is disassembled again.LOL.Don,t you just love to play with cars!LOL
 
Hi Louis,your moving along well.I moved my rear back 3/4 too,my rear is narrowed to 46 5/8.I have 15x12 Weld ProStars with 29.5x15x12 stuffed in the minitubs.I trimmed the lip 1/2 inch,but still have a very small rub on the inside when turning.Guess I,ll be getting some 29.5 x 11.5x15,s for spare.I only hear it rub when coming back on the return lane which is on abit of an angle.Great work your doing,did you get the Ron Francis wiring harness?I,m thinking of getting one for the 66 Dart which is disassembled again.LOL.Don,t you just love to play with cars!LOL

Well my buddy Pete who is doing the cage suggested that we just do a 1 off wiring Job on the car. He is an electrician by trade and wires all of his Race Cars himself...........You should see his wiring, it is FLAWLESS! It is just getting him away from his busy schedule to do it is all. He said it will take a few hours to do the schematic off of what I want in the car and about 2 days to wire it complete, relays on everything etc. If he is busy I will be buying the Ron Francis Kit for sure.
 
Thanks Louis.I too have a racing buddy that wants to redo my wiring(he,s an electrican too)Between us both doing upgrades on our cars,it,s hard to match free time to do it.This is why I,m thinking on the Ron Francis harness,it looks easy enough to plug and go.I,m swapping everything over to electric from manual(waterpump,fuelpump,fans and a second battery).So having a real fusebox will make things alot easier.I,m gonna rewire after the body and paint are done.
 
Thanks Louis.I too have a racing buddy that wants to redo my wiring(he,s an electrican too)Between us both doing upgrades on our cars,it,s hard to match free time to do it.This is why I,m thinking on the Ron Francis harness,it looks easy enough to plug and go.I,m swapping everything over to electric from manual(waterpump,fuelpump,fans and a second battery).So having a real fusebox will make things alot easier.I,m gonna rewire after the body and paint are done.

Yes a STOUT electrical system will be in order.

I just found some really nice leather, heated, lumbar, power seats out of a smaller Mercedes that I may purchase for $200.00. I will be getting the measurements to see if they will fit. If so the electrical will need an upgrade for sure!
 
If you get your wife in that car with a warm butt I,ll be shocked LOL.Sounds comfy for sure.

Yeah I know. I am also ordering the chris alston swing out hardware today for BOTH sides of the car. If she don't get in it then too bad for her.

Those seats if they fit will be taken to an upholstery shop and have Red Inserts put in them or something to go with my scheme, they will also be notched for the 5 point Seat Belt slots.
 
Did you start with a 68-70 B rear axle?

If so, The housing started out at 54 15/16 call it 55" and took off 7.5", it should have been 47 7/16 or 47.5" flange to flange.

The wild card is your disc brake rotor hat thickness.
 
my axle is getting setup to 51 1/2 disk to disk.we stuck the tires under the car where we wanted them and that's what we came up with. I'm hopeing the it's correct. If not I guess I'll be choping up the car more.
 
Did you start with a 68-70 B rear axle?

If so, The housing started out at 54 15/16 call it 55" and took off 7.5", it should have been 47 7/16 or 47.5" flange to flange.

The wild card is your disc brake rotor hat thickness.

Yes I used a B Body Housing on mine if that helps!
 
MD,
YES!!!
I already cut the axle and attached all of the tabs for the four link. not only did I measure I mocked up with the wheels and rims. I dont know what happened.
I spent the last few days chopping out the outer portion of the inner wheel well. I cut the fender lip down from 1.5" to .5" and ran the sheet metal to the body panels. after welding and seam sealer and truck bed liner it looks pretty good and I now have 1" of clearance at the fenders.
Later down the line I will get a pair of 18" wheels with a 2.5" offset and a set of 335 tires. Right now I have 315s.
Andrew
 

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MD,
YES!!!
I already cut the axle and attached all of the tabs for the four link. not only did I measure I mocked up with the wheels and rims. I dont know what happened.
I spent the last few days chopping out the outer portion of the inner wheel well. I cut the fender lip down from 1.5" to .5" and ran the sheet metal to the body panels. after welding and seam sealer and truck bed liner it looks pretty good and I now have 1" of clearance at the fenders.
Later down the line I will get a pair of 18" wheels with a 2.5" offset and a set of 335 tires. Right now I have 315s.
Andrew

Well it looks like you have it under control which is GOOD!
 
damn excelent work Mad Dart. id love to get my hands on your measurements and angles for your 4 link. i was wanting to do the exact thing except with a little narrower tire. my goal is about 400hp. i cant wait to see some pics of this thing tearin up the road.
 
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