70 Swinger Street/Strip build

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For the folks using tubular upper arms and tired of trying to get the round nose bumper to hit the tube, here's your solution....



I used a LCA bump stop. It's wide and about the same height as the std bump stop.
 
Great minds think alike, I did the same thing on my duster 4 yrs ago-steve
 
I thought I'd never even get here the way things tend to go sometimes. Finally off the stand!

 
Damn Rob! Just stumbled upon this build thread. I'm glad I did. This is gonna be an awesome little hotrod. I'm looking forward to watching it come together! Thanks for sharing with us.
 
Hey Rob,
If your not going to use the rocker arm set from the engine you pulled out, I need them for my engine. Its got a 3/4 race cam. lol

nice work. I see fontana is open again, hope to see you run.
 
Had a few minutes tonight to get a bracket whipped up for the fuel filter. I didn't like the idea of the filter being suspended only by an AN fitting. That and having a piece of hose levering on it as well, not going to be a good ending.





Took about an hour and a half to make and mount it.
 
That's nice,Fwiw,hot chick,crazy *** dog,bad president......
 
Set the rear on the ground to roll it back and install the engine/trans.



Roughly where ride height will end up. Probably a little lower when it has a full load in fuel cell, exhaust and some other goodies in the trunk.
 
275/60/15 MT street radial on a 15x8.5 Centerline autodrag with 4 7/8 backspace. Waiting for teh centerline haters to enter... LOL :)

Springs are moved in with offset boxes.

I did shorten the rear slightly, don't recall how much. Maybe an inch on each side.
 
Got the engine primed yesterday. The cam had grooves in it for shaft oiling and last time I primed it pressure was about 55 psi. When it was on the dyno, it would start about 60-65 then move to about 50-55 psi at upper end rpms. I installed a set of restrictors and when priming it had almost 80 psi. The rockers were not hemoraging oil. Just a nice light flow. This is with a stock volume pump. I'm hoping the pressure will be better at higher RPM's and think it will.

Decided to put a fuel filter on prior to the fuel pump which is something I don't normally do. Made another small bracket/plate that will be welded to the fuel cell mounting bracket. 2 number 8 lines in from the cell and one out to filter and pump.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/crackedback/media/70 Dart 340 EK2/Fuelcellfilter1.jpg.html
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/crackedback/media/70 Dart 340 EK2/Fuelcellfilter.jpg.html
 
Rear-end in its stock location other than it being shortened and spring relocation? No wheel well triming of any kind to fit that tire size?
 
Yes, stock location. I ended up putting ~5/8" of shims on both sides to clear the front of well on pass side. This car is far from square comparing wheelhouses and openings. Driver side has a bunch of room. Pass side is tight.

I did roll the lip on pass side. Should have just trimmed it back, but, too late now.
 
Just to make sure I understand correctly the shims you put in are where the front hangers mount to push the rear-end back a little? 904 or 727? If 727 what lenght is your drive shaft center to center as to where the u-joints go?
Thanks,
Ken
 
Yes on shims.

Not there with the driveshaft yet will have 1350 joints. It's a 904.
 
crackedback said:
275/60/15 MT street radial on a 15x8.5 Centerline autodrag with 4 7/8 backspace. Waiting for teh centerline haters to enter... LOL :)

Springs are moved in with offset boxes.

I did shorten the rear slightly, don't recall how much. Maybe an inch on each side.
Click to expand...

Love auto drags, ignore the haters.
 
Here's todays progress

Getting prepped.



Dropping it down



Installed





One man show, went pretty easy. I had the engine too low on the dolly in the front. It took some work and a longer set of bolts to get K frame bolts started. Had to hoist the front of the car up and slide another 4x4 under the K frame. Once that was done, rest was easy.
 
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