Great response as i wanted to know how close you can go as was unsure if they would scrub under load if the rubber buldges. So by what you are saying nothing to worry about?there's tons of tyre to leaf spring clearance there, i've scalloped the leaves with a grinder for tyre clearance before, lol. every little counts
neil.
74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 front end rebuild questions
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
you're fine
So pulled the balljoints out of a another set of upper arms and threads are cooked. So before i go the tubular route i have purchased some pressed arms that run the bigger balljoint. As problem i was finding is many pressed aftermarket arms were small ball joint or a custom balljoint to work a certain brake kit etc.
Sold the old 318 and diff for 1200 bucks so happy with that to create some more space. Just figuring out who to build my 904 and then ill drop it off. About to start making the k frame dolley so can put motor in and out with box connected.
Sold the old 318 and diff for 1200 bucks so happy with that to create some more space. Just figuring out who to build my 904 and then ill drop it off. About to start making the k frame dolley so can put motor in and out with box connected.
DionR
Well-Known Member
As mentioned before, the threads in the UCA aren't sharp like a nut or something. Even when new.
Here is a weld in ring that Speedway sells that could use a stock UBJ. Note how shallow the threads are.
Steel Upper Ball Joint Sleeve, K772 Style
The UBJ not grabbing anything and dropping through is an issue for sure and not sure what you are seeing on the "new" set of UCA's.
Yea i did consider buying some of these and fitting them into the old arms. Spoke to a mopar guy here who will paint my car once body is all done, he said very common when taking the old ball joints out cooks the original threads and then arm for the bin.As mentioned before, the threads in the UCA aren't sharp like a nut or something. Even when new.
Here is a weld in ring that Speedway sells that could use a stock UBJ. Note how shallow the threads are.
Steel Upper Ball Joint Sleeve, K772 Style
The UBJ not grabbing anything and dropping through is an issue for sure and not sure what you are seeing on the "new" set of UCA's.
Be interesting to see the quality of the new pressed arms i purchased. They advertise as a heavier duty steel etc.
I couldn't get the photos to load in messages, so the bourgeon coupler is just ever so slightly smaller than the coupler that fits the PST steering box. Looks to be just over 1.5mm difference not sure what that is in inches lol. Do you think i have the wrong coupler or a machining issue?
Edit just looked a 11/16th is 17.5mm and 19mm is 3/4 so that would make sense to why. (I think the standard manual mopars are 3/4 as well) I have contacted PST to see if they can confirm the spline size
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I believe you are on the right track, I would say you have the wrong coupler.
As I remember (????) you did not know what spline or shaft size you had but told me you were using a PST manual steering box, so I believe I got the shaft spline and count from the PST site?
let me know what PST says. Are you sure you have a PST steering box?
I hope so as thats what i purchased it as lol, i have contacted Kanter auto who now own or merged with PST, to find out the spline size. I can also see if the standard coupler fits it once i pull the saft out. If it does then its 3/4. Either way mate the pipes now fit with clearance. If i have to buy a 3/4 so be it as happ as knowing i dont have to rebuild pipes haha
OK, It is beginning to appear it may be an OEM steering box. Please keep me posted.
Denny
No worries its a 16/1 box, unless pst now use standard spindels on their boxes. It came with the shaft adapter that gets you from manual box to power column. Pretty sure its not oem
They emailed me back and the spline is the same as a manual mopar box...... guessing thats 3/4?
Does anyone know where to get the torque settings for the front suspension? As my new upper arms have arived and i am ready to start to assemble the front end.
Also got my new coupler in the 3/4 size and fits perfectly as well as a floor shifter column cover so also need to rebuild the column etc now i have the correct parts
Also got my new coupler in the 3/4 size and fits perfectly as well as a floor shifter column cover so also need to rebuild the column etc now i have the correct parts
BP27
Well-Known Member
This is from the 1973 service manual it should be the same as 1974
Legend really appreciate that!!! Makes life easier!!! Am i correct it saying that with rubber bushes some of these should't be torqued up without weight on the wheel as can damage the rubber bushes?
Correct. Suspension needs to be loaded before final torque.
New coupler arrived in the 3/4 size fits like a glove. Plus also my steering column floor shift collar arrived to delete the column style so i will start to assemble the column. Finaly i can put all the front end together. Check my clearances and then motor to engine builder once i know it all fits!!
I may have overlooked a detail i notice when some people weld the ladder frames on to the lower control arms they tighten up the pivot shaft asembly in the control arm. How tight should these be as i didnt look at these before welding bracing on etc.
Or am i over thinking this item, they have play of a few mm in and out both sides look to be very similar
Or am i over thinking this item, they have play of a few mm in and out both sides look to be very similar
like_A_pike
that's not factory
I searched for guidance on this topic when doing mine and found comments that the tolerance there was pretty low from manufacturing. Mine were both pretty sloppy though so I gave them a squeeze before tacking them to reduce the side to side twist. I don’t think I changed the rotational resistance much at all.
Yea i may have made that difficult for my self now given that have welded the bracing on, Murphy's law i read about this after the fact.
I did the same and couldnt find many comments on the topic, i more stumbled on it watching an install video, then tried to research to no luck. In the video i have seen they still kept some slop maybe little less than mine. May see if i can get it to tighten up at all but given i have already welded the stiffeners on probably not going to achieve much.
Given its just a cruiser and do the odd pass i dont think it will be a huge issue........ hopefully
Rebuilt the rear brakes and refitted........ however as i am a complete genious i forgot to adjust the hand brake which is a drum brake within the disk so ill have to pull them off again.
The brakes are all powder coated, i may get the hubs powdercoated as well as to look a bit nicer through the wheel etc
Over next week will put all the front end together and assemble the steering column with new steering shaft and new collar that deletes the column shift
The brakes are all powder coated, i may get the hubs powdercoated as well as to look a bit nicer through the wheel etc
Over next week will put all the front end together and assemble the steering column with new steering shaft and new collar that deletes the column shift
Started ripping the steering column down to rebuild and install new HDK shaft, to remove the shaft i have to get this item off, how do i remove it?
Whilst i have the column apart any items recomeded to change over?
I have a new indicator mechanism, however thinking maybe new ignition and key etc?
Should i replace the bearings etc?
Whilst i have the column apart any items recomeded to change over?
I have a new indicator mechanism, however thinking maybe new ignition and key etc?
Should i replace the bearings etc?
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