Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

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WOW.. all four of those look real good... I might have to go with the FR500's... at least when I get to that point... which will probably be 5 years from now :)
 
Judge Mills said:
WOW.. all four of those look real good... I might have to go with the FR500's... at least when I get to that point... which will probably be 5 years from now :)
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well thanks, so far i've only like the way the mach1 wheels came out in the chops.

Here are two more ideas i thought of today, one has been done on here, but not in my color scheme:

gray mustang bullits on a gray car:
wheelidea8bullit.jpg


Not mustang, but in the general theme of modern wheels on an Abody, z06 wheels:
wheelidea9z06.jpg
 
So let me get this right. To make these work on a swinger, I would need longer studs, wheels spacers, and have the front rims wheel hub opened up? Dang, I think I will pass. There is a set of decent ones for sale local for $250 with so-so tires, but not worth it if all this has to be done.

I am a cheap arse, but a lazy arse too ;)
 
dont forget lug nuts.

not that much work, not that expensive.
depends on if its worth it to you. jury ios still out for me, but then again, i hqavent driven the car yet. dern fuel pump.....
 
newguy said:
So let me get this right. To make these work on a swinger, I would need longer studs, wheels spacers, and have the front rims wheel hub opened up? Dang, I think I will pass. There is a set of decent ones for sale local for $250 with so-so tires, but not worth it if all this has to be done.

I am a cheap arse, but a lazy arse too ;)
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yeah a ton of work...:roll:
 
It's actually not that much work, I'm sure this thread, and my "68 cuda fastback suspension rebuild" thread would help alot as far as what fits, and will have all the information you will need...
 
its not for everyone, you can just buy a set of rims off the shelf that will fit with no mods, but not for the same price. if you have to pay some one to do any work for you then it might not be a bargain. i thought of buying used rims but i never saw them cheap enough to really make it worth it. check out what its going to cost to put new tires on them. for me it was just worth buying a brand set mounted and balanced from american muscle and they have a big enough center register to fit. i think if i followed along mopardude's builds i probably wouldnt buy the mustang rims he ran into all sorts of speed bumps along the way. i almost took them from the ups man and bolted them on.
 
I have no way to machine out the hub, so that would be farmed out. I can install the longer wheel studs, but if I add that in, the spacers, the rims, new tires (or good used ones), lug nuts and washers, the cost of machining out the center, I think I would be better off finding others. Just wish it were bolt on as I have a fuel injected project that is taking most of my time...... oh, and building a new garage :D..... time is short, bolt on and go sounds better at the moment :)
 
You could go ugly and use a sandpaper roll in a drill to open the holes up. I did that with my "test" wheel and it took about 10-15 minutes being careful to open it up just enough. I think it was like $75 to take my wheels to a machine shop and have them bore the centers out to hub-centric. If I had been smarter at the time, I would have had them go out to 73mm (or whatever the common largest-hub-ring-size is) and use hub rings to center the wheel.

It adds cost to the project, but these OEM Phord wheels are well made and common.

Clair
 
i paid 175 for my wheels with really bad tires.
25 in studs.
10 for 3/8 wheel spacers
50 for 1 inch spacers
20 for lug nut kit.

so grand total is 280.
 
newguy said:
I have no way to machine out the hub, so that would be farmed out. I can install the longer wheel studs, but if I add that in, the spacers, the rims, new tires (or good used ones), lug nuts and washers, the cost of machining out the center, I think I would be better off finding others. Just wish it were bolt on as I have a fuel injected project that is taking most of my time...... oh, and building a new garage :D..... time is short, bolt on and go sounds better at the moment :)
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be resourceful. wheels-n-tires $400, 3/4" billet spacers (before i swapped to b-body rear) $75 (re-sold em later), machine work 1.5 hours with a dremel.
i already had the long studs but changing those is gravy.
 
dusterbd13 said:
i paid 175 for my wheels with really bad tires.
25 in studs.
10 for 3/8 wheel spacers
50 for 1 inch spacers
20 for lug nut kit.

so grand total is 280.
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Wow.. I have $5 less than that just in my wheels. Pretty good deal.

autoxcuda said:
Clair, where those picture of the tie rod heim conversion helpful and what you are looking for?
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I don't know about Clair, but I liked them. Are those special studs?
 
autoxcuda said:
Clair, where those picture of the tie rod heim conversion helpful and what you are looking for?
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Hey, Steve,
Sorry for the late reply - was on vacation when you posted the pics and I didn't have reliable web access...

The Hotchkiss parts look sweet, but the thru-bolt or stud replacement is taller than I visualized. The price is also 2x what I was hoping to spend, but that's on par for my project. Back when I started my mess in 2001, my costs were:

Test wheel - $50
Bare Cobra wheels - $300 (shipped from Austin)
1" Billet adapters - $100/pr
Machine work - $75

Options have improved quite a bit since I started going down this road, and that's a good thing!

Clair
 
I have a minitub, and I am doing a custom width rear end. Then I plan to run either the 10.5" wide FR500's or the 10" wide bullitts in the rear.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
I have a minitub, and I am doing a custom width rear end. Then I plan to run either the 10.5" wide FR500's or the 10" wide bullitts in the rear.
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Please update with pics when you get them. I am looking at mini-tubbing my wifes dart this winter, and would love to see how they look :D
 
The first limit is the spring, and you can pick up at least an inch or two of space with a spring re-lo to the subframes. Might be able to get more space if you can build the tubs and springs where you need them to be rather than sticking to the subframes, etc.

Along those lines, if you know what wheels/tires you want to run, buld the rear, springs, and tubs around those and get it right the first time. That's what I should have done first time around rather than sticking with the shelf parts I could buy for cheap...

Clair
 
clair.davis said:
Along those lines, if you know what wheels/tires you want to run, buld the rear, springs, and tubs around those and get it right the first time. That's what I should have done first time around rather than sticking with the shelf parts I could buy for cheap...
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Awww...what's the fun of that? :toothy10:
 
Yeah, it cuts way down on the amount of time you get to wrench on your car, and who wants to do that?

Clair
 
4mulaSvaliant said:
Wait a minute!!!! Did you manage to get the typical adapters that are like an inch thick, maybe more, to work with those wheels and still tuck? Have you tried the fronts yet?
I was wondering if that would work, and figured it might for the rear but Im curious about the fronts with those adapters.
Hmmmmmm
Where did you get the adapters? Which ones? and what did they cost?
Also, we are talking about small bolt to BB pattern correct?

Man you lit a fire again, if this is possible with off the shelf adapters.
The adapters are typically so thick I was concerned that they would be too thick. Aside from that I wasn't ready to drop 25.00 per adapter if it wasn't going to work.
Please fill us in ASAP. I want those on my car BAD!!!
Thx man
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yes using the cheapo spacers i have the 4in bolt pattern on a 8 3/4 rear then the smallest adapter plates i believe 1inch not 100% though if you have any question PM me

jeff
 
Well, I finally got around to getting my wheels on, thanks to this thread so I thought I'd post my setup:

Wheels: 05 bustang mullits :lol:

Tires:
Front - 245/40/17
Rear - 245/45/17

Spacers:
Rear - 2 inch
Front - 1.25 inch hub centric

Notes:
1. The 1.25" spacers on the front are hub centric and are short enough so the snout of the disk up still protrudes into the wheel.
2. 40 series tires were chosen for the front because the fender clearance at the rear is close and I wanted some extra breathing room.
3. Outer tie rod end is roughly 1/2 inch from wheel.
4. Spacers in the front allow the use of stock center caps ( modified to remove stock logo ). Basically just filled with 5 min epoxy, sanded and painted.
5. Rear tires are approximately 3/4 inch from leaf ( leaf in stock position )
6. Cost of the tires is only included for reference. I was within weeks of needing new tires for the wheels that were on the car so that expense would be there with or without new rims.

Personal cost
Wheels with lugs - $100
Spacers - free ( craigslist swap ) :)
tires - $180 ( deal on some discontinued rears and used fronts )
paint - $15

Total out of pocket to date - $295
and I'll be selling the wheels that were on it to recoup some of the cost.

.... and here is the result.
 

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Thanks man, I actually had a guy that I've never met come up to me in a parking lot and say, "Those wheels look way better than the ones that were on there a couple of weeks ago" . Apparently he had seen my car around and also approves. Heck, even the wife was like "Those are sexy" :) and holy cow do they stick...makes the old BF goodrich's seem like marbles
 
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