Bang for the Buck Thread

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@wes beem No shame when you copy an engine build. For that is just the best way to flatter the guy that did it. You’re just saying it is awesome and I need one just like it. 99.9% of the people will be most happy to tell you what they did so you can copy it. Although, LOL, you may not get every last detail or trick.

Personally on that stroker on PN, I’d run the next header size up or a step header to the next size. There’s a few more HP in it.

The best part of those shows is they basically show you most everything. The one thing I would not do is follow what he said on the carb tune since it can vary depending on your location. There’s a few things to consider there. But that should be a “No Duh!” Ha ha ha…

I’d have no problem copying that engine.
 
I’m with RRR on this one with juice. Go fast now and hook it. All that other stuff can come along down the road.

Make sure you reserve 1-1.5k for a 9.25 or Dana 60 cause sooner or later your going to need it. And probably at an inopportune time.
 
most all these answers are correct. All will net better performance. I think it would be best to pick a goal (ET or something) that is your target and see where your 3k can work the hardest to get you there. Move the dial closer to the target (or past it!) so to speak.
 
That build right there would definitely make me happy....

Yeah, me too!! That would be a beast in my little Barracuda!!

I pulled a 2001 5.9 Magnum from a yard. Stripped it down, took it to a machine shop for hot tank, hone, crank polish, new main, rod, and cam bearings. I sent the cam to Oregon Cam Grinding for a regrind (.215/.223 @ .050, .517 @ 1.6). Assembled it in my garage with Edelbrock 2.02 heads. New hardened pushrods, reused factory lifters, new Comp roller rockers, Air Gap intake, and an Edelbrock 650 AVS2, Doug's headers. Rebuilt the 904, adding a PTC 9.5" torque converter, Running a 8.75, 3:23 Sur-Grip.

Pulls hard on the street, but haven't had it to the track. Hopefully this spring, still need wider rear wheels and tires, and frame connectors.

Have fun!!! The planning and building is the best part!!
 
Streetable, fast as possible, future upgrades, small cam already, 8.25 rear end, I would do 100-150 shot of nitrous with a progressive controller and keep everything as is down to the converter. That should make the parts you have now survive and have a blast running low 12s possibly a high eleven on a hero run. Then with the left over money get some good tires and shocks and a spare 360 block to build the engine you want all at once in stages. Once the stroker is done you can sell the engine you currently have, put a better rear end in the car and still have the nitrous for when you outgrow the stroker :)
 
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Lets say you have a bone stock Junkyard 360 Magnum in good shape.

You already have a good intake, Headers, mild cam, and carburetor Budgeted for.

You have 3000$ To spend to make as much additional streetable power you can.


Annnnnd go...... Im leaning towards 408 stroker kit myself. Curious what others would reccomend bang for the buck wise.
Stroking it will require a larger cam for best results, per David Hughes
Saw a Dyno test 360 magnum to 408, everything the same except stroker kit, only gained 34 hp.
New 150 nitrous plate kit $500
 
Stroking it will require a larger cam for best results, per David Hughes
Saw a Dyno test 360 magnum to 408, everything the same except stroker kit, only gained 34 hp.
New 150 nitrous plate kit $500
I buy that, the 408 would require more head and cam.
The 408 would have more torque than the 360 for sure.
Kinda like a tractor. lol
 
I buy that, the 408 would require more head and cam.
The 408 would have more torque than the 360 for sure.
Kinda like a tractor. lol
yeah in the mentioned video it picked up like 80-90 lbs of torque but not alot of HP without the cam and head upgrade
 
Lets say you have a bone stock Junkyard 360 Magnum in good shape.

You already have a good intake, Headers, mild cam, and carburetor Budgeted for.

You have 3000$ To spend to make as much additional streetable power you can.


Annnnnd go...... Im leaning towards 408 stroker kit myself. Curious what others would reccomend bang for the buck wise.
You will have at least $1500 in machine shop, if you build a stroker, so $3000 is spent. Do a stock rebuild on shortblock and good rod bolts then buy the best heads you can afford, then get a camshaft to match. You will still be over your budget.
 
I buy that, the 408 would require more head and cam.
The 408 would have more torque than the 360 for sure.
Kinda like a tractor. lol
The best thing about doing the short block first is the instant torque difference you’ll feel which will be awesome. This increase can be used very well in dropping the ‘60 ft and ET. While the meager 34 HP gain sounds unworthy, the torque gain is huge and worth it. Even more so on the street.
 
Please tell me where you can build a stroker motor with all the parts, machining and balancing for 3k today? Even using the stock heads, valve job, springs, fresh cut. ect.
 
You will have at least $1500 in machine shop, if you build a stroker, so $3000 is spent. Do a stock rebuild on shortblock and good rod bolts then buy the best heads you can afford, then get a camshaft to match. You will still be over your budget.

When you mean "stock rebuild" on the short block... do you mean new cylinder bore and hone, new pistons, resize rods, new rings, bearings, oil pump ?

Or do you mean refresh short block ... old pistons, hone, resize rods for ARP rod bolts, new rings, bearings, oil pump? Hopefully it doesn't need crank polish
 
Please tell me where you can build a stroker motor with all the parts, machining and balancing for 3k today? Even using the stock heads, valve job, springs, fresh cut. ect.

Not a long block.

But a short block is possible. Balanced, cast crank, forged piston rotating kit with new: pistons, pins, bearings, rings, rods w/ARP bolts, from Scat. $1845 in parts. That leaves $1155 for labor and additional parts.
 
Not a long block.

But a short block is possible. Balanced, cast crank, forged piston rotating kit with new: pistons, pins, bearings, rings, rods w/ARP bolts, from Scat. $1845 in parts. That leaves $1155 for labor and additional parts.
I can't build a decent stroked short block for $3000, the machine work alone is $1000- $1200
 
I'd put that camshaft in my mom's car. If it's a roller, it's so small, I'd sell it and send a mag cam to a grinder for more lift. Unless you are building an engine for a motorhome, I'd use it for a doorstop.
 
I knew you'd come along.
The budget man. lol
and you blew up, after I put the top end on it. You better be on the rev limiter. :lol:
Your TF heads and Victor intake will double the cost ..... I'll go halves with ya if it goes in my car :)
 
The best thing about doing the short block first is the instant torque difference you’ll feel which will be awesome. This increase can be used very well in dropping the ‘60 ft and ET. While the meager 34 HP gain sounds unworthy, the torque gain is huge and worth it. Even more so on

I can't build a decent stroked short block for $3000, the machine work alone is $1000- $1200
I was looking to build my 440 into a stroker yeah that dream died with machine work and the price of the kit alone.
 
I was looking to build my 440 into a stroker yeah that dream died with machine work and the price of the kit alone.
Myself, I don't think the squeeze if worth stroking a 440.
If I'ma stroke'n it would be with a 400 block.
 
I can't build a decent stroked short block for $3000, the machine work alone is $1000- $1200

True decking, line honing, hone w/torque plate... for top notch race machining will have to be skipped. http://paragonengines.com/machineshoppricing At some point he needs to draw the line if this is a budget build. If it's not a budget build, save you money for 2-3 years and spend $6K to $9K.

I don't see this as the potential for over 450-500 hp and the chassis/car that it's going into. Over that point start with something else. I understand getting the best machining possible and having something to grow into. But at $3K/yr its too long a waiting game.
 
Save up another $2k and call me in the morning.

Seriously tho, I would not piece a stroker together over time. As stated above, a stroker bottom end and stock heads….bad combo. Same the other way around. Make a comprehensive plan as to what you want out of the package, and how to go about getting to that plan, then price that out. When you have enough $$ for the entire engine build, then do it. In the mean time, enjoy the car the way it is until the engine is ready. Then upgrade the support items according to the finished engine and start adding those where necessary.
 
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