Budget 318 build

-
rumblefish360 said:
Hey! Stupid dirty *** wipe! I’m not being sarcastic but I can change in a flip of a switch if ya want me to! Frakin hillbilly dumbfrak!

(The attitude over. Did ya like it? I got more!
Now for some civilized talk.... )

While the purpose of the forum, among other things is to learn, square one teaching is not one of them even more so when you didn’t/don’t read the book you bought.

If the chain was too thick to use behind a stock cover, IMO, the book would have mentioned it. Also, by far and large the general population here makes mentions and states concerns when members use such parts or go to that level where a modification is needed. Most assume you would know that a mod is needed if need be. If and when it pops up, members (myself included) make mentions, address concerns and/or talk about there experience and pains with that product or ordeal in doing what you maybe attempting.

There is a long history here in engine modifications and from general to wild race builds. Many with great detail.

Enjoy the reading and the forum.
Now go! Seize the day!
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I must have missed the part where basic questions are against the forum rules

Are you the administrator in charge of what questions are allowed or not allowed?

Have you ever read anything and were still unclear? I have, and in cases like that, real world advice is priceless

why do you take this attitude?
 
It's all good rusty not a big deal I can handle it I'm assuming he was joking around.
 
Yep, the 318 is tougher to do as there are not as many piston options. Got that Sealed Power number handy? If it is 814, then teh FM catalog does list them as 1.755" CH, and you might get them on eBay. They don't come up as regular sold items from distributors anymore. BTW, watch the valve to piston clearance with a higher lift cam on those flat tops; see a recent thread on the bent pushrods.

BTW, here is a link to the Silvolite catalog; if you look at their listings, you will see similar specs and also see the Federal Mogul/Sealed Power equivalent PN's (like 526 and 814) and so be able to get the Silvolite equivalents.
https://www.uempistons.com/catalogs/silvolite_catalog.pdf

Milling the block by .060" is a bunch, but seems plausible. I bet someone can advise you how much you can mill safely, and your shop might know. You ought to call them and see the costs: more data. As you mill the heads and block keep in mind that the pushrod lengths will have to change. And boring .010" is unusual.... see what they say and if you can even get .010" oversize. .020" or .030" oversize would be more normal. Being able to clean up the taper with a .010" overbore is sometimes problematic.

BTW, why not do the 360 again? More damaged?
 
dartfreak75 said:
It's all good rusty not a big deal I can handle it I'm assuming he was joking around.
Click to expand...
no worries
i ask dumb questions all the time. that attitude is unnecessary. if super experienced members don't want to answer, they can simply move along.

I teach people for a living and understand that everybody has a different learning style.

simply reading the book isn't good enough for everybody
 
Yes 20 over would be more common lol the pistons on ebay are listed as on h814cp so yes they are the 814s would those pistons put the pistons high enough to up help out with my compression problem. Yes the 360 needs total rebuild machine work new everthing pretty much the only thing usable is the block and heads
 
It's funny cause the book I have is very vauge and leaves alot to questions of had it for probably 15 years or more. I sat down and was reading it this morning and it still wasnt answering my questions so a quick Google search answered my question. So apparently there is some basic info left out of this book I guess i need to get a basic rebuild book
 
rustyswinger said:
no worries
i ask dumb questions all the time. that attitude is unnecessary. if super experienced members don't want to answer, they can simply move along.

I teach people for a living and understand that everybody has a different learning style.

simply reading the book isn't good enough for everybody
Click to expand...
Yea i completely agree I'm a very hands on person I can read something four or five times and still not get it till I do it then im like ahhh know i get it! I do some amature gunsmithing also and have read a hundred books but didnt learn it until I built my first rifle
 
rustyswinger said:
I must have missed the part where basic questions are against the forum rules

Are you the administrator in charge of what questions are allowed or not allowed?

Have you ever read anything and were still unclear? I have, and in cases like that, real world advice is priceless

why do you take this attitude?
Click to expand...
Was this comment directed at you?
 
rustyswinger said:
no worries
i ask dumb questions all the time. that attitude is unnecessary. if super experienced members don't want to answer, they can simply move along.

I teach people for a living and understand that everybody has a different learning style.

simply reading the book isn't good enough for everybody
Click to expand...
Considering your last reply towards me and this one, you assume to much and should check just who is being an *** first before replying. The answer is located in the bathroom mirror.

I also teach.
However, if you want to be a dickhead towards me first, I’m more than happy to respond in kind and for however long it takes. I truly will put all aside just for you.

I didn’t know you were a 2 dollar who’s ready to be ridin all the way to China and back. If your game, keep It up.

If you want to carry on like adults, then proceed. I’ll respond in kind.
 
Ok so I just spent the last 2 hours reading 318willrun budget build and I have decided I'm gonna go his route with the heads I'm gonna go ahead and pop them off and do a porting job you make it look simple and straight forward I was hesitant to try it but after watching your videos I'm gonna go for it. In the next few weeks or months that I'm working on my suspension,breaks,heads etc I may decide to spend the money on some new slugs we will see where that goes lol. One question about that I found the 814 slugs for 135 and was looking into the rings engine tech has two different sets cast rings for like 30 and moly rings for 50 will either set work with the 814 pistons or do I have to use one or the other and are the molys worth 20 more?
 
Good luck on your attempted porting work.
Take your time!

On the pistons rings, if they are the proper diameter for the bore and slugs as well as thickness needed for the piston, the moly faced rings would be a nice advantage for a quick break in!

Ops, I forgot to add, measure the gap! Carefully!
 
rumblefish360 said:
Good luck on your attempted porting work.
Take your time!

On the pistons rings, if they are the proper diameter for the bore and slugs as well as thickness needed for the piston, the moly faced rings would be a nice advantage for a quick break in!

Ops, I forgot to add, measure the gap! Carefully!
Click to expand...
I was reading a hotrod article a 318 they was rebuilding the short block had over 200k with moly rings and had virtually no wear on the cylinder bores! That is pretty impressive for 20 extra dollars I don't mind spending that lol
 
rumblefish360 said:
Considering your last reply towards me and this one, you assume to much and should check just who is being an *** first before replying. The answer is located in the bathroom mirror.

I also teach.
However, if you want to be a dickhead towards me first, I’m more than happy to respond in kind and for however long it takes. I truly will put all aside just for you.

I didn’t know you were a 2 dollar who’s ready to be ridin all the way to China and back. If your game, keep It up.

If you want to carry on like adults, then proceed. I’ll respond in kind.
Click to expand...
If you are talking about me then I apologize if I was being the *** first I didn't mean to be! I was asking about timing chain and you said it annoyed you or whatever but its all good I under stand l don't want no-one to have hard feelings or anything Im here to learn and fellowship with my fellow mopar brethern let all let it go it's all good that comment was almost a month ago it wasn't a big deal then it's sure as heck not now im ok being a stupid asswipe hahaha I'm kidding but seriously no hard feelings toward rumble and if you (rumble) feel I was being an *** I sincerely apologize!
 
dartfreak75 said:
I was reading a hotrod article a 318 they was rebuilding the short block had over 200k with moly rings and had virtually no wear on the cylinder bores! That is pretty impressive for 20 extra dollars I don't mind spending that lol
Click to expand...
I’d also bet that was a Magnum engine. They wear extremely well. It comes down to how much fuel is in the cylinder after ignition and temperature control.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I’d also bet that was a Magnum engine. They wear extremely well. It comes down to how much fuel is in the cylinder after ignition and temperature control.
Click to expand...
It actually was an 84 318 out of a diplomat! I was very impressed. They made 400hp with a stock bottom but they also probably spent 1k in machining the top tho that is not in my budget
 
dartfreak75 said:
If you are talking about me
Click to expand...

No sir!!!!!! I was not!!!!

I quoted @rustyswinger whixh addresses him directly.
My comment he quoted was directed at you because I thought you were getting snooty.

That issue is dead and gone.

Rustyswinger brings it back up and comments on it.
It is none of his GD framing biz ness short and simple and then he goes on to assume.
Which assume broken down is making annass out of u and me.

I defend this position of it is none of his biz and what he assumed is just that. He grew crap on me seeing what will stick.

He has no clue what I have done on anything.

then I apologize if I was being the *** first I didn't mean to be! I was asking about timing chain and you said it annoyed you or whatever but its all good I under stand l don't want no-one to have hard feelings or anything Im here to learn and fellowship with my fellow mopar brethern let all let it go it's all good that comment was almost a month ago it wasn't a big deal then it's sure as heck not now im ok being a stupid asswipe hahaha I'm kidding but seriously no hard feelings toward rumble and if you (rumble) feel I was being an *** I sincerely apologize!
Click to expand...

No apology needed.
But doing so is a high class love and shows everyone tons !!!

Were are good!
 
Freakin - A we do!

And speaking on such......

Do you have a die grinder?
Have you selected the bits to grind with yet?
IMO, *I Think* an electric tool would be best. But ask the been there and done that. I have an air die grinder. My compressor would constantly be on if I use it for heads. (Small Sears unit.)

I’d like to know who has and what they think of there electric die grinders. This would be good information for all.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Freakin - A we do!

And speaking on such......

Do you have a die grinder?
Have you selected the bits to grind with yet?
IMO, *I Think* an electric tool would be best. But ask the been there and done that. I have an air die grinder. My compressor would constantly be on if I use it for heads. (Small Sears unit.)

I’d like to know who has and what they think of there electric die grinders. This would be good information for all.
Click to expand...

Electrics are best and grindstones are easier to control than carbide burrs. I traded the guys that did my 273 heads a couple Bosch grinders. They seem to last them the longest and Radar ports heads 8 hours a day. Here's an example: Bosch 5.8 Amp Corded High RPM Variable Speed Die Grinder-DG355LCE - The Home Depot
bosch-die-grinders-dg355lce-64_1000.jpg
 
I have a dremel and a variety of bits. I have had good luck with the little drum sanders with my gunsmithing work. They can take alot of metal pretty quick tho! The little scoring wheels 318willrun used I'm gonna have to get. I have some stone wheela but haven't used them much! Addressing the head gaskets I know this is a crazy idea but can a head gasket be reused? Im very hesitant about using the thicker gasket and hurting my compression even more and 70$ for the.028 isn't really in the budget but i may have to swing it! The Mr gaskets 1441) I believe is the number?) Are around 60 to 70 bucks but anyways i have rebuild several small engines and reused the head gasket is that possible here or is that out of the question?
 
Mr Gasket 1121G is the PN you are looking for.... 1441 is for some lug nuts LOL For sure I would use those gaskets! Reusing any head gasket is a crap shoot... maybe if it was almost new but not if it is old. You risk a coolant leak, combustion chamber leaks, etc.

When you go to milling the 360 heads, then I'd do more than 318willrun did... I suspect that was limited to avoid milling the intake side and the added cost. A .040" milling limit MIGHT also keep you form changing pushrods but that is a variable you just won't be able to know with .040: milling until it is being put together. I personally would not want to limit myself on performance to try achieve something that may not happen. Milling .040" will put your combustion volume about 2 cc's smaller than the stock 318... which is not much of a decrease, and especially with the prolonged closing of the intake with the cam you have a mentioned. So IMHO look into doing more milling. You drop 1 cc with each .0055-006" of milling. So milling a total of .060" milling would net you another 3-4 cc's of chamber decrease, and folks have gone past that.

With the 3.73 rear gear, you have changed your operating spot in the RPM-torque map so you should be able to do fair. Just don't expect fuel mileage....
 
nm9stheham said:
Mr Gasket 1121G is the PN you are looking for.... 1441 is for some lug nuts LOL For sure I would use those gaskets! Reusing any head gasket is a crap shoot... maybe if it was almost new but not if it is old. You risk a coolant leak, combustion chamber leaks, etc.

When you go to milling the 360 heads, then I'd do more than 318willrun did... I suspect that was limited to avoid milling the intake side and the added cost. A .040" milling limit MIGHT also keep you form changing pushrods but that is a variable you just won't be able to know with .040: milling until it is being put together. I personally would not want to limit myself on performance to try achieve something that may not happen. Milling .040" will put your combustion volume about 2 cc's smaller than the stock 318... which is not much of a decrease, and especially with the prolonged closing of the intake with the cam you have a mentioned. So IMHO look into doing more milling. You drop 1 cc with each .0055-006" of milling. So milling a total of .060" milling would net you another 3-4 cc's of chamber decrease, and folks have gone past that.

With the 3.73 rear gear, you have changed your operating spot in the RPM-torque map so you should be able to do fair. Just don't expect fuel mileage....
Click to expand...
Thanks yea that is the right number lol ok I guess I will start looking for them hopefully I can find some on here a little cheaper. Btw I am talking about porting my 318 heads not the 360 heads. If I port the 318 heads I can keep my compression stock instead of losing it with 360 heads and I can get more flow looking at those vidoes the 318 ported heads will flow just as good as the stock 360 and Won't decrease my compression and its free so it fits my budget!! I think that is my best case scenario for the money I won't have to spend money at the machine shop and can still get the better flow!! I do have one question about valves if I where to swap the valves out and put 360 valves in my 318 do you have to recut the seat to match the new valve or will laping it seal it?
 
Ah I see.... REAL budget work. Yes, the valve seats need machining, or new inserts. Now, I still would mill the 318 heads some for street use, like .030". But, with that, why not just mill the 360 heads and get their better flow for free?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Considering your last reply towards me and this one, you assume to much and should check just who is being an *** first before replying. The answer is located in the bathroom mirror.

I also teach.
However, if you want to be a dickhead towards me first, I’m more than happy to respond in kind and for however long it takes. I truly will put all aside just for you.

I didn’t know you were a 2 dollar who’s ready to be ridin all the way to China and back. If your game, keep It up.

If you want to carry on like adults, then proceed. I’ll respond in kind.
Click to expand...

You are pretty touchy. I believe I was respectful in my comment. Point out the phrase that offended you so greatly.

You most assuredly are not coming across like an adult. Whether your comment was directed at me or not, I have every reason to respond this is a public forum on the world wide web.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top