Budget 318 build
- Thread starter dartfreak75
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Negative
Your pretty quick to point a finger an assume.
Twice now.
Just like a teenage girl.
Belong to the mean girls club do we?
So, if there was one to point a finger at, look in the mirror.
I believe your not minding your own biz as well as misdirect the thread and muddy it up with useless babble.
You started. If you wonder where, please reference your own quotes to start with.
Absolutely, to the topic at hand would be very good. So far you have not. If there’s anything you are doing, it’s starting ****. For certainly not acting like an adult. I guess device to a dumbass like yourself, stick to the topic at hand. And the topic at hand is not our discussion. So pull up the big boy pants and act like you got one. And that would be a brain.
So! Are you here to help or just sling ****?
rustyswinger
Well-Known Member
lighten up francis
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
The problem I see with the milling is one money If looked up prices and it ranges anywhere from 75-150 Im assuming that's the pair then as stated before you run into the problem of pushrod length and shimming the rockers and adjustable rockers so on and so forth! I'm not ruleing out milling the 360 heads and using them later on but for now my best bang for my buck I think the 318 heads are best I'm gonna try and replicate 318willrun build pretty closely also the 400hp hotrod magazine they build a stock bottom with modded 318 heads and made 400hp! Now don't get me wrong i dont expect that kind of power cause they did alot of machining and had 10:1+ cr i know im still around 8:1. I wish @318willrun would chime with his opinion on the matter. What do you guys think will the ported 318 heads give me the flow of a 360 head!! And would a Milled and ported 360 head be even better? If I can get the flow of a 360 head with a home port job and not loose cr why would I need to switch heads?
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Oh btw @nm9stheham Im loving this thanks for your input and ideas you got my mind going lol
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok so I read somewhere today and for the life of me i can't remember where or who said it maybe yall can steer me in the right direction. I read that you can get flat valves (instead of the cone divit in the bottom? that will help a little with compression does anyone know the pn for them thanks
what I wrote in Post 79 pretty much has this answered. Yes, ported 360 heads will outflow ported 318 heads. Cut 'em .040 and don't worry about pushrods/rockers. I've never had an issue.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok thank you buddy. What kind of performance difference can be expected from a ported 318 vs a ported 360 with simular just a little lower Cr from a street aspect not turning one 5 grand plus I want 0-60 and cruising? Is it work the extra 150+ In machine work?
I'd say if your 0-60 and off idle is most important, and if your keeping 3.23's or less gearing with stock converter, then I would do the 318 heads with good valve job, new springs, and "MILDLY" open up the bowls. You'll be on the plus side of 5 grand rpm's.
If you want to build for the big end, then go 360 heads. I'm not going to read through the 7 pages to see what you have for gears, converter. IF your going 3.55's, aftermarket converter, and headers, I'd really consider the 360 heads.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I scored a 8.8 ford with limited slip 3.73. With the budget right now i cant afford a stall so that's out of question I'm gonna make some phone calls this week and check on milling the heads and see
For now, stick with the 318 heads. Don’t worry about the valve shape or there sizes. Deal with the 360 heads later as time allows money, which you did say was an issue. It will take good ka-ching to get the heads done.
With 373 gears, you can get a decent cam in there.
She’ll hustle!
With 373 gears, you can get a decent cam in there.
She’ll hustle!
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
IMHO, it would take a LOT of porting, plus valves, in the 318's to match the 360's.
Yes, there are flathead/nailhead valves that will reduce the chamber volume by about 2 cc's. But that is a low return on the $$ spent. You will get far more out of the
The parts are not well matched for your original stated goals. The cam and CR and stock TC combination are going to leave a flat spot at the low RPM range, regardless of the rear gear's improvements. The result will be to hit the gas, and then wait for the engine to rev up; the stock TC won't let it immediately get up in the torque band. Plus the torque band will be up higher, which drives to the cost of valve springs, etc.
Let's go with the thought that you deliver pizza's in the evenings for a few weeks and make the $150. How to best spend that?
Yes, there are flathead/nailhead valves that will reduce the chamber volume by about 2 cc's. But that is a low return on the $$ spent. You will get far more out of the
The parts are not well matched for your original stated goals. The cam and CR and stock TC combination are going to leave a flat spot at the low RPM range, regardless of the rear gear's improvements. The result will be to hit the gas, and then wait for the engine to rev up; the stock TC won't let it immediately get up in the torque band. Plus the torque band will be up higher, which drives to the cost of valve springs, etc.
Let's go with the thought that you deliver pizza's in the evenings for a few weeks and make the $150. How to best spend that?
- Mill 360 heads. Gets CR up a bit which helps the low end some. Still have the cam which is the primary item that will set the engine's characteristics and the cam and head runner volumes don't match up well with the TC and CR for your stated use.
- Port 318 heads yourself and mill. Helps the CR even more. Helps with DCR and also the smaller ports are better matched to the use you have stated.
- Buy new cam and sell old. That is the winner, IMHO. Then match it with the 318 heads that are ported by yourself. I'd STILL like to mill the heads for better CR, but that is beyond the $150 limit. Deliver more pizza's?
- New cam, sell old, and mill 360 heads? Probably the best. Deliver more pizza's.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The caution on this is that .040" off the heads in one particular engine may be fine for the original pushrods, but it cannot be guaranteed to work on every single engine. There are 4-5 variables at work, and some sets of parts will be near the operable adjustment limit from the factory, and the extra milling will push one or more lifters past the limit.
maybe... never seen it. Can't buy a head gasket as thin as the approx. .015 original tins. So ya give back .010 of the .040 even if the .027 "thin" gaskets are used. IF the "over the counter" Fel Pro's are used, they are .050 thick. Now it's a gain of about a whopp'n .010. Many cut 'em .060 and never an issue. I wouldn't raise an eyebrow to .040.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Yes, I know. Not bustin' on ya at all; statements of 'many' do such and so, and 'never seen it' can't guarantee it. As a counter-example, if valve work has been done and the valves are sunk and not properly tipped (it happens), then that takes away from the range of lifter adjustment. IIRC, that very problem has shown up here in one discussion; we just don't know in any particular case if this is an going to be an issue or not. I'd suggest that 'very probably won't be any issue' is a good way to term it.
I know ur not bust'n on me... LOL
But now you brought in a valve problem, unrelated to cutt'n the heads. like saying "new rod bearings are not a guarantee because the oil pump could fail"... I just threw out what has worked over the last 30+ years and probably around 50+ small block mopars alone for this shade-tree, redneck-wrench'n, but-never-lost-a-small-block-mopar-to failure or whatever other name is float'n out there to best describe my type
But yes, very probably won't be an issue.... always safe to check.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
This is great stuff great info!! You know milling and porting the 318 heads is not a bad idea it would bring up the cr and give me more flow but not to much more as stated before I'm limited by my tc!! I added around an extra 200 to the budget I sold some stuff
Thin head Gaskets I found for 60
Porting is free
That leaves me around 140 for milling and maybe some new valve springs.
The problem with my budget is not that I dont have the money or can't make it I work ot like craxy it's that I'm married with 3 little kids and I don't want to take money from the family to put in a project if that makes sense.
Thin head Gaskets I found for 60
Porting is free
That leaves me around 140 for milling and maybe some new valve springs.
The problem with my budget is not that I dont have the money or can't make it I work ot like craxy it's that I'm married with 3 little kids and I don't want to take money from the family to put in a project if that makes sense.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Oh @nm9stheham I thought I scored a cam the other day it was on fb marketplace for 50 bucks the guy knew nothing about it he sent be a pick if the end bearing with the pn it was a lunati well i instantly thought about what you said and was gonna buy it but after looking at the cam card decides to pass it was way extreme for me it on 60403 like 527 lift out of class so I passed
Use the car to take the family to the park. I always used the classic cars for a "fun" day. Heads is where your gas mileage and performance will be made. I like your idea of porting and cutting the 318 heads.
Nothing wrong with 318 heads on a teen. Want to get there fast? 360 or a 408 stroker. Get back to basics with your teen with a 4 barrel and dual exhaust. It will work well with your stock converter and gears. It's easy to over cam teens and then you need a $1000 worth of converter and gears to make it work.
New Torque converter woes? No worries.
Then limit your cam size to a duration of 218@.050.
This will work with a stock converter.
A old FABO member Mike Beck ran low 12’s in a dedicated race Duster W/a 360. The cam was a Crane, 216/228-454/480/112.
Comp, Lunati, etc... all offer something in this range.
Even though you do not have a race car, the cam can make
Good power. Up to approximately 5500.
Sure does make sense! Been there done that!
Scurry away a few bucks when and if you can.
Best target goal for you IMO is to just get it up and running and enjoy it. Work on a solid foundation first and add parts to it later. It will all come around.
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dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I know this isn't the right spot but im super excited look what came today. The pieces are starting to come together. I need to start a project thread and post all my progress there. But anyways the wheels are the Oringals that came off the car i replaced them with rallies back in the day but I scored these on ebay!!! They need some work and the wheels need sandblasted and painted but they gonna look great!!!
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have more but they won't upload grrrrr
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Im not sure why my pics won't load it's saying security error?
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