Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

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Oh interesting... so should I do that before or after I get the cam back from the regrind? I was hoping to bring the block to the machine shop and send the cam out at the same time!
Just have the machine shop check it with any cam. If yours is straight and the journals aren’t torn up it’ll be fine. You just want to check it before final cleaning because if it needs to be reamed, the block will need cleaning again.
 
I helped a friend of mine put together a 440 using a Lunati Voodoo cam. Once it went all the way in, you had to put a wrench on it to turn it. His block was fresh back form the machine shop with new cam bearings. He took the camshaft to the machine shop and they found that it was bent but were able to straighten it. After he got it back, it turned freely by hand. It was a brand new camshaft.
 
Just have the machine shop check it with any cam. If yours is straight and the journals aren’t torn up it’ll be fine. You just want to check it before final cleaning because if it needs to be reamed shanked with the bearing knife, the block will need cleaning again.

ftfy ;D
 

Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?
 
Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?
Enough? Yes. But IMO there are much better choices. Lots of guys love the edlebroken carbs. I do NOT. If I put your combo together it would get a 3310vs Holley. All that being said, buy the carburetor YOU are most comfortable tuning. And if that’s an edlebrock get a 650avs2.
 
Im still experiencing the off idle lean blues with the avs2. I don't recommend these.
 
I just bought the Eddy 1406. I got it for a bargain.... You all might not like it, but I've always messed with Holleys in the past, and I'm curious to try an Edelbrock. Plus I hear they are better for street dependability, though not as flexible for producing power as a Holley. Anyway, we'll see...
 
That’s a fine carb. Bolt on and forget.

I have one on a ford 289. Threw it on a few years ago and it has always run perfectly. Only ever touched it to adjust the idle mixture and speed.
 
I just bought the Eddy 1406. I got it for a bargain.... You all might not like it, but I've always messed with Holleys in the past, and I'm curious to try an Edelbrock. Plus I hear they are better for street dependability, though not as flexible for producing power as a Holley. Anyway, we'll see...
It’ll be fine. Run that shiz.
 
We have the manual choke version of that carb on my son's car with a 318. It's been very dependable.
 
Enough? Yes. But IMO there are much better choices. Lots of guys love the edlebroken carbs. I do NOT. If I put your combo together it would get a 3310vs Holley. All that being said, buy the carburetor YOU are most comfortable tuning. And if that’s an edlebrock get a 650avs2.
Atta boy! Good man.
 
I got the block and heads over to the machine shop today, and the cam is shipped to Oregon! Woo!

This morning as I finished the teardown, I took a couple pics of some of the con rod bearings. I think they looked kinda rough, I'll be replacing them. The main bearings looked better but I'm gonna do those too.

Funny, the rearmost con rods had the most wear, and that's also where the lifters were stuck in their bores. Not sure if that means anything...

anyway, I'm gonna order the bearings, as we ll as rings now.
Any recommendations here? Funny, the options seem cheaper on Summit than RockAuto.

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Biggest thing to note: There is a bug in the summit catalog and they list 360LA rings under magnum compatible. They are not.

Make sure the kit you get is 1.5, 1.5, 4mm, not 5/64.
 
Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

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The later versions, 72 and up, A body drivers side manifolds had provisions for a heat stove on them. Both versions, 318 and 340/360. There is a set of 72 up 340/360 manifolds on here for sale right now, but priced way too high. Thing is though, back in the day everybody took all of the heat stoves off and tossed them in the trash with the charcoal canisters because it was smog stuff. Those are the parts that are the hardest to find. I have a 71 Challenger with a warmed up small block in it, with an Edelbrock 600 that has an electric choke. It sits on an LD340 intake with the exhaust crossovers blocked off. On a cold start, the choke will set first time every time and the car will run at fast idle until I hit the gas once and let it idle down.
 
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