Changed intake gasket, now it won't start

[rigger3006]

you got this far on your own with a bit of help from guys on this site, you get someone else to do it for god knows how much, where im from its 110 to 150 an hour, do it yourself and you will feel so much better about it, and have a sense of accomplishment, you're not the first guy this has happened to, or the last

 

[j par]

Are you kidding me take it to someone else and do it! With all this practice you should be able to do it with your hands tied behind your back and your eyes closed! I mean you got it easy. When this sort of thing happens to me it's the pan gasket underneath the car I have to loosen the motor mount jack up the motor and then oh my goodness the nightmare of it all! We're talking an intake manifold you don't even have to grovel around on the ground. When I put my new Stroker motor in milodon gave me a pan that had a hole and one of the welds! And then there was the time I had to take the pan off because the motor ate the dipstick! what a nightmare please please the next time let it be me just having to take the intake manifold off!

 

[WSUTARD]

So the oil looks creamy. Does that mean it also has coolant in it? Which would mean I also didn't seal the water jackets good enough?

 

[j par]

It almost looks as if the distributor is sitting on top of the intake manifold partially in that picture and post #47?

 

[69conv]

Don't look now but shops screw thing up too and usually find a way to charge you for fixin'it. Your just investing in the learning curve any old car owner pays, don't be hard on yourself.

 

[GeorgeH]

So the oil looks creamy. Does that mean it also has coolant in it? Which would mean I also didn't seal the water jackets good enough?

or water drained in it when you pulled the intake?

 

[RustyRatRod]

A shop will screw it up good. There are few around that even know how to set timing anymore.

 

[WSUTARD]

Fine guys. I will do it all over again. Already dumped the coolant. Pulling stuff right now.

This time I want to use a gasket that has the metal plates that cover the middle ports. Anyone know who makes those?

 

[j par]

Okay first of all you are using the right stuff the right stuff! Make sure you clean it all off really good and double or triple stack the beads in the front and in the back putting a good little portion in all four corners and I personally like to use Edelbrock gasket cinch on both sides of the actual gasket. And leave the damn distributor alone this time.

Fine guys. I will do it all over again. Already dumped the coolant. Pulling stuff right now.

This time I want to use a gasket that has the metal plates that cover the middle ports. Anyone know who makes those?

 

[WSUTARD]

Okay first of all you are using the right stuff the right stuff! Make sure you clean it all off really good and double or triple stack the beads in the front and in the back putting a good little portion in all four corners and I personally like to use Edelbrock gasket cinch on both sides of the actual gasket. And leave the damn distributor alone this time.

Yep, right stuff! I just didn't use enough last time. Pic below.

I have those tabs in the bottom. Should I bend them up, put right stuff below and in the corner, then bend them down into the right stuff?

The gasket looks fine and is in position so I guess I will keep it there and reuse it. But it blocks the pass through port without a backing plate which, as I have been told, will break down over time without the plate. Maybe I should get the backing plate?

 

[318willrun]

If your not using the cork gaskets on the ends, you need more RTV, especially on the ends by the water jackets. I would run the bead almost up to the blue lines. the metal tabs can be just laid flat on the block.

 

[WSUTARD]

If your not using the cork gaskets on the ends, you need more RTV, especially on the ends by the water jackets. I would run the bead almost up to the blue lines. the metal tabs can be just laid flat on the block.

Everything I read says not to use the front and back cork gaskets. I guess they end up leaking. (Hahahaha, would have been better if I used the first)

 

[perfacar]

Yep, right stuff! I just didn't use enough last time. Pic below.

I have those tabs in the bottom. Should I bend them up, put right stuff below and in the corner, then bend them down into the right stuff?

The gasket looks fine and is in position so I guess I will keep it there and reuse it. But it blocks the pass through port without a backing plate which, as I have been told, will break down over time without the plate. Maybe I should get the backing plate?
View attachment 1714955870

mopar says, to put a sealant bead around the end water passages on heads and intake manifold. I've always done that, they can leak water into engine. also, I use a silicone sealant to seal with. follow the mopar sequence for tightening the bolts. bend tabs down!!

 

[j par]

Remember to stack the beads on top of each other in the front and back to make it thick because there is a quarter inch space there that you have to overcome. not two wide but two high stack them on top of each other. And plus everything everybody else is saying

Yep, right stuff! I just didn't use enough last time. Pic below.

I have those tabs in the bottom. Should I bend them up, put right stuff below and in the corner, then bend them down into the right stuff?

The gasket looks fine and is in position so I guess I will keep it there and reuse it. But it blocks the pass through port without a backing plate which, as I have been told, will break down over time without the plate. Maybe I should get the backing plate?
View attachment 1714955870

 

[harrisonm]

Keep stabbing at it. How do you think we learned how to do things? By screwing up a lot, that's how. Once you are past this, you will be able to laugh about it, and a year from now, you can help some poor guy who is having the same problem. I'm proud of you for sticking with it.some

 

[harrisonm]

if it still won't fire for ya- here is what I have done to find TDC - take the cap off the distributor - remove the #1 plug - get the damper set at zero - carefully run a screw driver into the #1 plug hole - if the screw driver contacts the piston right away (in fact, with a flash light you can see the top of the piston) - you're at compression TDC, if not - you are 180 degrees off. Once you are sure you have accomplished TDC make sure the distributor rotor is pointing toward the front of the car... proceed as normal.

Am I missing something here? If the damper is set at zero, the #1 piston will surely be at the very top of the cylinder, but it could be the top of the exhaust stroke as well. Just lining the damper at zero and seeing that the piston is at the top of the cylinder will not ensure you are at the top of the compression stroke since the crank turns twice for each time the cam turns once. Maybe I misunderstood what you meant.

 

[ScampMike]

Am I missing something here? If the damper is set at zero, the #1 piston will surely be at the very top of the cylinder, but it could be the top of the exhaust stroke as well. Just lining the damper at zero and seeing that the piston is at the top of the cylinder will not ensure you are at the top of the compression stroke since the crank turns twice for each time the cam turns once. Maybe I misunderstood what you meant.

you are correct - I misspoke - of course if you're at TDC on exhaust and set the distributor you'll be 180 off..

 

[nm9stheham]

Everything I read says not to use the front and back cork gaskets. I guess they end up leaking. (Hahahaha, would have been better if I used the first)

Some combinations of heads and intakes work fine with the original end gaskets in place. I would temporarily place the intake on the heads and the intake gaskets and snug down just the corner bolts a tiny bit to see how big the gap is. If it is large and close to the size of the cork gasket thickness, then I would use the cork gaskets and a skim coat of black RTV as a sealer and glue, with blobs in the corners. We have a 340 that uses the cork gaskets just fine. So it depends on the particular combo.

I cut the end tabs off with a razor just to keep them from getting in the way and causing leaks. They are just an assembly aid that likes to get in the way!

So just how creamy is the oil? I would be changing that out pronto; it certainly has coolant in it.

 

[WSUTARD]

Only cream was on the back deck. You can see it against the right stuff on the right side of the block.

 

[WSUTARD]

FYI, I started a thread on taking suggestions on what to do with my gasket. I will keep this thread going for the problem solving.

Intake Gasket with heat crossover blocked?

 

[diymirage]

that RTV doesn't look compressed
am I the only one who thinks the intake never touched that bead?

 

[ScampMike]

it's probably a good thing you didn't get it running right - that would have gotten ugly once the oil pressure came up. It looks like the seal never mated with the intake. REALLY glad to see you decided to get after it yourself!!

 

[ScampMike]

that RTV doesn't look compressed
am I the only one who thinks the intake never touched that bead?

no you're not

 

[WSUTARD]

I can say that it did touch, but only barely. This time I'm going to be generous with the Right Stuff.

 

[ScampMike]

the back one is little harder to do with the engine in the car - the measurement should be the same as the front though. ..did the intake gaskets survive?