**Coil Over Conversion with Stock K**

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I am gonna run the AFCO 3850M DA shocks and I have the snout bars in engine bay to tie into the upper mount! the spherical bearing on the AFCO is 1/2" bolt and 1.06 wide.
 
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does anyone here make a brace like this?
 
So has anyone got the kit and put some street miles on it?? I keep going back and forth and weighing my options and a part of me is thinking of buying the kit as an intermediate suspension setup(see few years) and still be able to run a T5/TKO setup in my car.
 
Man will this coil kit work on my 67? Id like to do drop spindles myself but allready have the 67 wilwood conversion brakes. Looks damn good badart!!!
 
This conversion will work on all year a bodies. Thanks

Thought id seen a youtube vid of you mocking up the install? Is there a way to bring the entire tire inward an inch or two? I really want mine slammed in the weeds. As my sig pic shows. Thats bottomed out on the stops but my tire rubs on full lock either way its turned. An inch inward would eliminate that id assume? I seen a link on another forum but lost it till now. Il be buying your stuff late this fall. Looks top notch
 
Thought id seen a youtube vid of you mocking up the install? Is there a way to bring the entire tire inward an inch or two? I really want mine slammed in the weeds. As my sig pic shows. Thats bottomed out on the stops but my tire rubs on full lock either way its turned. An inch inward would eliminate that id assume? I seen a link on another forum but lost it till now. Il be buying your stuff late this fall. Looks top notch

It is possible to move everything inboard an inch. I have done it in the past for another car. This most likely will limit turning radius and possibly have to use a shorter tie rod sleeve. If you use my adjustable uppers it will help adjusting camber also.
 
Thought id seen a youtube vid of you mocking up the install? Is there a way to bring the entire tire inward an inch or two? I really want mine slammed in the weeds. As my sig pic shows. Thats bottomed out on the stops but my tire rubs on full lock either way its turned. An inch inward would eliminate that id assume? I seen a link on another forum but lost it till now. Il be buying your stuff late this fall. Looks top notch

That is a nice stance and similar to what I'd like for my 69. The rear is not a problem with just some work to mini-tub and move springs, maybe buy different springs and shocks. It's the front that seems to require spending bucks to get it down. I'm not sure upgrading to bigger torsion bars will allow enough lowering - they won't help if it's sitting on the bump stops.

I just want to "get down" without spending mega bucks to do it :)
 
Well the bump stops don't even come into the equation with the coil over conversion. I am just going to use the Rubber stop that is on the shock shaft. I actually cut off the brackets on got rid of the whole bump stop assembly.
 
Thought id seen a youtube vid of you mocking up the install? Is there a way to bring the entire tire inward an inch or two? I really want mine slammed in the weeds. As my sig pic shows. Thats bottomed out on the stops but my tire rubs on full lock either way its turned. An inch inward would eliminate that id assume? I seen a link on another forum but lost it till now. Il be buying your stuff late this fall. Looks top notch

You can also add/weld a piece of material to the Steering Stops so you don't rub.
 
How much did that lower radiator support run you? Does he have a website that I can order one? Any info would be appreciated thanks.
 
You can also add/weld a piece of material to the Steering Stops so you don't rub.

Its the top of the tire at about the 1-2 o clock position. I would loose about 25-30% steering to either direction. Not exactly something i want to loose going 170+mph and spinning the tires. I do like the moving them in an inch and then if need be. Put stops on it as that would be much less than 10% loss of turn.
 
Its the top of the tire at about the 1-2 o clock position. I would loose about 25-30% steering to either direction. Not exactly something i want to loose going 170+mph and spinning the tires. I do like the moving them in an inch and then if need be. Put stops on it as that would be much less than 10% loss of turn.

If you are turning your tires in any direction at 170MPH, the last thing that is going to matter is how far they turn. You better be making peace with your maker!:D
Is it hitting the frame or the fender? I had a 70 Dart that sat pretty low and it did not rub any where. Here is a picture....

The front is 23 1/2" off the ground to the fender lip. It had fat tires on the front too. Not skinny's

View attachment IMG_1544.jpg
 
It hits the fender on the front top. It does this sitting on the bump stock of the factory bumpers. Which is where i want it to sit. If i can move it inwards an inch. It would clear the fender and allow full turning. As well as full compression of the susspension if i had to counter steer in the event of loss of traction.
 
It hits the fender on the front top. It does this sitting on the bump stock of the factory bumpers. Which is where i want it to sit. If i can move it inwards an inch. It would clear the fender and allow full turning. As well as full compression of the susspension if i had to counter steer in the event of loss of traction.

If John "badart" could make you the lowers and uppers 1" shorter than stock that would fix it. Like he was saying you would need to use shorter Tie rod sleeves or just buy his with 8" sleeves instead of 9".

Another area to look at is the Strut Rods. If he shortened up the lowers by 1" will that affect the strut rod placement on the LCA? Just something else to check out. Another area is the frame directly above the stock bump stop. The frame would most likely need to be notched and con-caved in and welded back up to accept the Coil Over. On mine I need to clearance the lip of the frame but not into the frame. Yours you most likely would.
CHOP CUT REBUILD!!
 

I did not see the rad support on the website, and no prices. I've been following the development of these parts and may be utilizing them. I'm just not to that stage yet.

I'm curious about the 70 Dart, what was done to have it at that height. I don't need much more. I don't want to be bashing up headers.

Regarding turning at speed... I hit an animal doing 80 mph on a wet road once. Sent me sideways and I was lateral on the road three times. The third time I knew the back end was going over the shoulder so I steered for the ditch, kept it straight, jumped the deepest part, did not roll. Point of the story is, during two of the lateral skids, I hit the stops with the steering. Not a good feeling, hoping it comes around. Lucky for me it did. Close ratio steering on that Trans Am (no flames please) helped. :)
 
I did not see the rad support on the website, and no prices. I've been following the development of these parts and may be utilizing them. I'm just not to that stage yet.

I'm curious about the 70 Dart, what was done to have it at that height. I don't need much more. I don't want to be bashing up headers.

Regarding turning at speed... I hit an animal doing 80 mph on a wet road once. Sent me sideways and I was lateral on the road three times. The third time I knew the back end was going over the shoulder so I steered for the ditch, kept it straight, jumped the deepest part, did not roll. Point of the story is, during two of the lateral skids, I hit the stops with the steering. Not a good feeling, hoping it comes around. Lucky for me it did. Close ratio steering on that Trans Am (no flames please) helped. :)

My 70 Dart was all stock. Just lowered the torsions in the front. The rear had de arched 1.5" Springs under it. Cal tracks in the rear with Rancho 9 way adjustable's. Front had calvert racing 90/10's on it. Think it had 205/60/14s on the front. Rear had 245/50/14's

Damn you are lucky to be alive...
 
If John "badart" could make you the lowers and uppers 1" shorter than stock that would fix it. Like he was saying you would need to use shorter Tie rod sleeves or just buy his with 8" sleeves instead of 9".

Another area to look at is the Strut Rods. If he shortened up the lowers by 1" will that affect the strut rod placement on the LCA? Just something else to check out. Another area is the frame directly above the stock bump stop. The frame would most likely need to be notched and con-caved in and welded back up to accept the Coil Over. On mine I need to clearance the lip of the frame but not into the frame. Yours you most likely would.
CHOP CUT REBUILD!!

Thanks Louis
 
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