Cooling issues

-
Pippen said:
did you have to make any mods to get the 26'' rad in?
Click to expand...
I moved from a Champion 22" rad (factory 22" rad car"to a 26" cold case rad and it dropped in. I think It was missing the threaded inserts on the top passenger side so I used a nut on a bolt but it was shocking how easy it was to change to. NOW that extra few inches of rad is NOT going to get air to it unless you cut away at your rad support to open it up. If that being said moving a modern 2 rows of 1.25" tubes is a HUGE improvement over an old stock unit or heck even a several year old 3/4 row aluminum.
 
charger426 said:
I moved from a Champion 22" rad (factory 22" rad car"to a 26" cold case rad and it dropped in. I think It was missing the threaded inserts on the top passenger side so I used a nut on a bolt but it was shocking how easy it was to change to. NOW that extra few inches of rad is NOT going to get air to it unless you cut away at your rad support to open it up. If that being said moving a modern 2 rows of 1.25" tubes is a HUGE improvement over an old stock unit or heck even a several year old 3/4 row aluminum.
Click to expand...
Great, thank you!, I also have a champion 26 in my car, with the Ford fan mod, My motor is also built pretty good, nothing crazy but also would be part of the reason. I just reset my dakota last night. although its lowest on temp was like 150 or something, not with key on, I didn't have alot of time to look how to accomplish that but I am curious to see how this works.
 
Last edited:
Is your radiator support to hood seal in place? How about your lower splash pan to radiator support seal? Without those, there is no way to funnel the air into the radiator opening. It’s like sucking through a straw with a hole in it. The idea of air flow is to trap the air in front of the radiator, use a conical shaped shroud and clutch fan to draw the air through the radiator like a vacuum. The fan needs to be in the shroud at least 1/3 of the way, otherwise you are just blowing air around and not drawing it through the radiator. The pusher fans and flex fan are not doing you any service if you are not funneling the air through the radiator.
 
The car has no lower splash pan, that is something I will look into, hood seal is in place, and the ford fan mod is sealed to back side of the radiator, I do not have any room for a clutched fan due to the Big block and thicker radiator. I will work on location a splash pan or fabbing one up as i wasn't aware they came with one. Great information. Thank you
 
I thought I would give a little update on my cooling issues. I ended up geting a 22'' cold case rad. no more overheating. thanks for all the suggestions fellas.
 
Finally solved my cooling issues with a 26 inch radiator and dual SPAL electric fans mated with a pre fab unvisersal shroud from Jegs. Works great and move a TON of air. Waited too long to pull the trigger on the set up. Should have done it years ago
 
Broke Farmer said:
Finally solved my cooling issues with a 26 inch radiator and dual SPAL electric fans mated with a pre fab unvisersal shroud from Jegs. Works great and move a TON of air. Waited too long to pull the trigger on the set up. Should have done it years ago
Click to expand...
Which Radiator did you go with? I just got my 383 back in my dart and it is still running way too hot. Motor all new, new water pump and housing. Was running hot before the rebuild in town. Car came with a Champion 22 in 3 row radiator and Derale 17" 6 blade fan. Now I need to find a solution that works. 26" seem like it would be tight but may fit? Any further help would be appreciated.
 
People race out & buy new radiators....& find the engine still runs hot. Other things cause hot running, such as retarded timing, lean mixture....
 
26 inch aluminum 3 core. Cheap china unit off e bay.
No sense in hanging onto the old one that needed rebuilt anyway. Not a show car just a resto mod kinda car.

Agree with above about timing and mixture but I don’t live in Vermont. Saturated humidity here in southeast Indiana.

The original cooling system was inadequate on these cars from the beginning as unfortunately I am old enough to remember. Technology just wasn’t there.

I never hear anyone complain about vapor lock or cooling issues on their brand new cars or trucks as it was actually a real issue in the past.
 
Bewy said:
People race out & buy new radiators....& find the engine still runs hot. Other things cause hot running, such as retarded timing, lean mixture....
Click to expand...
Timing is correct with dialed Dizzy all in at 34* 16* static. AVS2 650 with proper rods and jets for 6200 ft above sea level. She has run hot since I bought her. now that engine is new rebuilt and all new cooling set up I am focused on this 3 row Radiator. Going to try a Cool Case based on others feedback. Thanks
 
71Twister440 said:
I like the idea of coming on with the key and other at a set temp, i have them set at two different temps, one temp for thermostat and the other is at 200 i believe... but when i hammer mine it creeps a little, 210-215 range, wondering if your option is a a better idea......
Click to expand...
toolmanmike said:
Most of the "Overheating" issue threads here are engines not getting hot to puke coolant out. If it isn't barfing, it isn't overheating and the system is doing it's job. Don't pay too close attention to the factory gauges. With no numbers on them how can you tell?
Click to expand...
Read my post. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don't understand why "overheating" is so confusing.
 
toolmanmike said:
Read my post. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don't understand why "overheating" is so confusing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for response. However, I was really only soliciting Radiator info/feedback as I look to change it.

Full Story for everyone's benefit. Car ran hotter than I prefer before the rebuild and would puke after shut down. I knew I was getting ready to rebuild the motor so wanted to revisit after it was tanked, new water pump, new heater core etc. The car has two temp gauges. the stock one and iequus analog .. both have new sensors on rebuild.

During Cam break in at 2500 RPM Analog got up to 225 and stock was at full right "hot" when I shut down run one at ~ 12 minutes into break in. within 30 seconds heater hose blew clean off firewall. We repaired the heater hose and went for two shorter break-in runs, it was still getting very hot. Knowing this was break in and temps are high with only a small fan to blow on radiator. I wanted to re-evaluate on the road. First two trips withing 3 miles temps were in the higher range of 200 and climbing if stopped. Not wanting to damage my new motor I have kept the runs short, not letting it get above 210 on analog and decided to look to replace the Champion 3 row that came with the car. I have had issues with their radiator providing adequate cooling on my built 66 Charger 440 so I was already skeptical.

So long story short. I somewhat agree if it's not blowing its probably not as bad as I fear however it is still way hotter than I would prefer. I ordered the Cold Case Radiator and will report back once it's installed. Thanks for all the feedback.

20230812_110800.jpg
 
Good luck with cold cases stuff. A puke on shut down is generally a rad cap that's outlived it's prime.
 
BMOBE69 said:
Thanks for response. However, I was really only soliciting Radiator info/feedback as I look to change it.

Full Story for everyone's benefit. Car ran hotter than I prefer before the rebuild and would puke after shut down. I knew I was getting ready to rebuild the motor so wanted to revisit after it was tanked, new water pump, new heater core etc. The car has two temp gauges. the stock one and iequus analog .. both have new sensors on rebuild.

During Cam break in at 2500 RPM Analog got up to 225 and stock was at full right "hot" when I shut down run one at ~ 12 minutes into break in. within 30 seconds heater hose blew clean off firewall. We repaired the heater hose and went for two shorter break-in runs, it was still getting very hot. Knowing this was break in and temps are high with only a small fan to blow on radiator. I wanted to re-evaluate on the road. First two trips withing 3 miles temps were in the higher range of 200 and climbing if stopped. Not wanting to damage my new motor I have kept the runs short, not letting it get above 210 on analog and decided to look to replace the Champion 3 row that came with the car. I have had issues with their radiator providing adequate cooling on my built 66 Charger 440 so I was already skeptical.

So long story short. I somewhat agree if it's not blowing its probably not as bad as I fear however it is still way hotter than I would prefer. I ordered the Cold Case Radiator and will report back once it's installed. Thanks for all the feedback.

View attachment 1716137933
Click to expand...
Report back with your results. I hope it works out for you. I puked coolant out at a car show, mid suller, 90+°, very humid, and I was running the A?C. Al soon as I shut it off it blew like Old Faithful. It was a defective cap not holding pressure.
 
Best luck with it. What pressure cap are you running?
Big block in A body is always a cooling struggle.
I have not owned a Cold Case radiator but you can never underestimate to importance of blade placement, shroud and or clutch.
As I mentioned before, once I switched to aluminum 3 core with dual SPAL fans it changed everything.
Why stick with the old technology when you build and engine and trans and converter with upgraded components?
 
Broke Farmer said:
Best luck with it. What pressure cap are you running?
Big block in A body is always a cooling struggle.
I have not owned a Cold Case radiator but you can never underestimate to importance of blade placement, shroud and or clutch.
As I mentioned before, once I switched to aluminum 3 core with dual SPAL fans it changed everything.
Why stick with the old technology when you build and engine and trans and converter with upgraded components?
Click to expand...
Cap is new 16 PSI... I will sort it out I am sure.....
 
May I ask who assembled the engine, do you know the ring gap, we're the ring grooves cleaned, what weight oil are you running?
Tia
 
inertia said:
May I ask who assembled the engine, do you know the ring gap, we're the ring grooves cleaned, what weight oil are you running?
Tia
Click to expand...
Bottom end was Sonic checked, align bored and balanced by Geddes Racing. All gaps were properly set but don't have that at my finger tips. brand new KB Hyper Pistons, Schneider cam, New rods, new push rods et...... New heads ...Running Maxima Break in provided by Geddes Racing....20W50 I think?
 
Could you get temp shots of the upper and lower rad hose fittings, not the hoses, - when it hot, - so we can eliminate the rad, even tho new, as the/part problem thnx. You're looking for 50*ish+ of temp drop.
This thread will give you an idea of where we are going.
If you don't have a gun, phone local parts stores to borrow and take out in the lot. Infra red pic better maybe .
www.forabodiesonly.com

Radiator-Temperature

I am going to try to keep this short. I really don't want this to turn into a bickering match about - aluminum vs copper, thermostat vs no thermostat temperature or degree of thermostat to run have read way to much of it. 1972 Scamp 383, 727 trans w/remote cooler, 3.91 gears, electric fuel...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
Cheers.
 
Last edited:
71Twister440 said:
The car has no lower splash pan, that is something I will look into, hood seal is in place, and the ford fan mod is sealed to back side of the radiator, I do not have any room for a clutched fan due to the Big block and thicker radiator. I will work on location a splash pan or fabbing one up as i wasn't aware they came with one. Great information. Thank you
Click to expand...
I have 26'' , 1 1/4 tube , two row in my barracuda with a clutch fan , it can be done ...

IMG_0469 (3).JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top