Damper Split In 2 Pieces

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'64 Cuda said:
Is there a reason they call it "The Rattler"? Marketing hype? I always wondered if there was some sort of moving counterweight in them or something that made them noisy. It really looks nice.
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It is exactly how you describe it. When you shake it you can hear it Rattle just like a snake.........and no I aint bullshittin........haaaaaaa

In the instruction manual it says that this is the same technology that they use on airplanes and such... I think there are 9 roller counter weights in it.
 
'64 Cuda said:
Is there a reason they call it "The Rattler"? Marketing hype? I always wondered if there was some sort of moving counterweight in them or something that made them noisy. It really looks nice.
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It's called the rattler because it has a pendulum (or maybe multiple pendulums) in it for balance instead of fluid. When you shut the engine off, you will hear a rattling or clunking sound from it as the pendulum winds down.
 
Mad Dart said:
It is exactly how you describe it. When you shake it you can hear it Rattle just like a snake.........and no I aint bullshittin........haaaaaaa

In the instruction manual it says that this is the same technology that they use on airplanes and such... I think there are 9 roller counter weights in it.
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64physhy said:
It's called the rattler because it has a pendulum (or maybe multiple pendulums) in it for balance instead of fluid. When you shut the engine off, you will hear a rattling or clunking sound from it as the pendulum winds down.
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That's interesting how it works. I just thought it was hype. Learn something new everyday.
 
The noise at shut down wouldn't be too bad. I'd just hate to find out I had something that sounded like a coffee can full of rocks when my engine was running.
 
Did you order it through Summit or Flatlander? Flatlander has it for about $50 less than Summit.
 
Says you need a tool, I can see why the bolt is WAY short that holds the damper on. So I went to ace hardware and was looking for a STUD full thread to screw into the crank and back off about 1/2 inch and use a nut and washer to pull it on. They didnt have one so I used this set up instead. Worked Great. I also got a nut and used that to chase the bolt threads before I put it in the crank. The threads had some marks on both the TOOL I rigged up and the REAL Bolt this cleaned them up well.
I used a few washers then tightened the bolt down, backed it out added more washers again and again until it was all the way. I used a NEW BOLT and Washer for final assembly and then torqued it down. I will finish the install tomorrow and fire it back off then adjust the valves. I am also flushing the pan a few times with some cheap oil just in case before filling it up with Brad Penn " THE GREEN OIL " Reminds me of Kendall when I was a kid. Anyway here are some pictures.

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Thats cool maddart! I have the same (tci rattler) on my 408. good luck with that badass engine! be easy on it!! lol. cant wait to run the piss out of mine, its still on the stand sitting in my room...
 
mopardude318 said:
Thats cool maddart! I have the same (tci rattler) on my 408. good luck with that badass engine! be easy on it!! lol. cant wait to run the piss out of mine, its still on the stand sitting in my room...
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When are you going to be ready to install yours??
 
Mad, check the bolt alignment of your pulley with the balancer. Sometimes those are drilled for chevy pulley bolt spacing regardless of car they are going on. You might have to drill one of the holes in your pulley, or slot it, to fit.
 
crackedback said:
Mad, check the bolt alignment of your pulley with the balancer. Sometimes those are drilled for chevy pulley bolt spacing regardless of car they are going on. You might have to drill one of the holes in your pulley, or slot it, to fit.
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Rob,

Yes that was already done for the last damper but this one actually lined up perfect. I had to file on the washers in 1 spot on all 6 so they would clear the dampers hub. The Pullys did not need to be messed with like I originally thought everything lined up Perfect!!

Also FYI I did not touch the distributor at ALL and when I checked the timing again it was 5* RETARDED........... I am sure that the DAMPER slipped on the DYNO because I set it exactly how Brian had it when I installed it in the car.......now without touching the Distributor it is off 5*??????? ALSO the timing marks are dead on NO MOVING AT ALL with the OLD Damper it would bounce 2-3* not anymore!!!!!!!!!! Andddd the temp stayed at 165-175* nowhere near the 200* that it use to touch.

The engine sounds VERY healthy with the timing where it supposed to be.
IFFFFFFFF it slipped on the DYNO then wouldnt it create more HP and TQ because the timing was Retarded??

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Mad Dart said:
Here is the link to the cheaper one found by 64physhy!

Great Find.......

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html Type in RATTLER as a search on this site and it will pop right up.
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Mad Dart be glad you got it from Summit. Flatlander's may be cheaper but their crooks. I ordered a oil pan for my 360 from them about 4-5 yrs. ago and they sent me a pan for a 460 Ford and then didn't want to exchange it. The owner said I wasn't installing it right even though I told him it said it was for a 460 Ford right on the box and I ordered one for a 360 Chrysler! I had to call numerous times to get in touch with him (would never return my calls). After my 3rd call I threatened to file a credit card claim and he had his secretary call me back and tell me they were sending out a UPS pick up ticket for the pan and refunding me.
 
fishy68 said:
Mad Dart be glad you got it from Summit. Flatlander's may be cheaper but their crooks. I ordered a oil pan for my 360 from them about 4-5 yrs. ago and they sent me a pan for a 460 Ford and then didn't want to exchange it. The owner said I wasn't installing it right even though I told him it said it was for a 460 Ford right on the box and I ordered one for a 360 Chrysler! I had to call numerous times to get in touch with him (would never return my calls). After my 3rd call I threatened to file a credit card claim and he had his secretary call me back and tell me they were sending out a UPS pick up ticket for the pan and refunding me.
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Thats right I remember now Tracy!!!! I will stay away from them I have had enough issues!!
 
When we checked timing on the dyno, it checked everytime the same, so it's likely it moved on the car.
Plus...some lights don't check the same as others. Did you set timing according to the sheet or ???
 
ou812 said:
When we checked timing on the dyno, it checked everytime the same, so it's likely it moved on the car.
Plus...some lights don't check the same as others. Did you set timing according to the sheet or ???
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23* initial ends up at 34* all in around 2800rpm

All I know is I will NEVER buy a Cheap Damper again.
 
Question? The damper that failed which model ? I just picked my 416 up
from kammer racing with a pro\race pro sport damper. It dynoed great
but the timing marks are not correct (slip? i dont know) Uhg!
sorry to hear about all you damper probs sounds like you have it whopped
now.
 
stngr67 said:
Question? The damper that failed which model ? I just picked my 416 up
from kammer racing with a pro\race pro sport damper. It dynoed great
but the timing marks are not correct (slip? i dont know) Uhg!
sorry to hear about all you damper probs sounds like you have it whopped
now.
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Maybe they aren't slipping at all and are just off out of the box?? That is my guess now that I think about it more. I know the timing use to BOUNCE but now it doesn't at all.

Here is the link to the one that was on mine..........it was a PRO STREET and not a PRO RACE like yours. I do believe they are the same manufacturing company though! Their PRO RACE SFI approved Damper still is elastomeric 2 piece. I would never trust anything built like that again. Live and Learn

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...ZW5naW5lcw==&level1=RGFtcGVycw==&partid=24225
 
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