Dissapointing performance

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Riff Raff said:
Guys. For what ever its worth. I agree with all of you and all of your suggestions. I think this fella's comments and replies are being taken out of context. Just like texting its easy to misinterpret the point someone is trying grasp and/or make. I think his grammar and english translations make him sound combative. Just saying...
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At least one sees this. Thats right. For some reason Americans tend to talk more "nicely" in my point of view. I have seen this many times on forums when skandinavian people talk neutrally in their point of view, americans feel it to be rude and that leads to problems. I just dont have ability to talk like they do and im not going to fake it, but that doesnt mean im a dick.
 
And yes im going to get bigger carb and exhaust in next performance upgrade. But I dont bellieve it changes much, sorry to disargee with you.
 
"But I dont bellieve it changes much, sorry to disargee with you.
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That comment alone says alot about you, language barrier aside.
You seem to have planned your engine theoratically by putting components together that SHOULD make good power... on paper! Obviously you are not where you wanted to be (... it should make 400 horse does not guarantee that it actually will, no matter how many dyno sheets you look at).
But still you disagree with everything being said... by people who have built maybe hundreds of 360 engines in their lives. So they know what they are talking about because they speak from experience. Better listen to them, not one of them is being rude what I would call rude. :p

Your cam is too big for the gear ratio, together with the small carb and exhaust. You were looking for horsepower but you probably killed all the torque down low.
 
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Coronet 500 said:
I truly believe you need to do an 8 cylinder warm compression test first. Diagnose this step by step.
Click to expand...

Here's what you need. Please start here. I bet you have extremely low cylinder pressure with that fairly large cam. I think you may have a fuel delivery problem also.
I don't see how your pistons can be that far in the hole either? KB 107 has a 1.675 comp ht. Even at full deck height of 9.599 , 6.123 rod, 3.58" (1.79") = 9.588" which is .011" in the hole. Either your block is very tall or your rods have been shortened by excessive resizing or you have a messed up stroke on your crank. Fix your quench.

Eddy 600's suck for power but your engine should be stronger than what it is. I agree that you should have at least 400 crank hp--probably more like 425-440 hp with that cam.
You don't need a 750, in fact a Holley 650 HP will kick *** on this combo. Your exhaust may be hurting a little but I doubt changing it would make a large difference.

I agree 3.23's aren't ideal for your combo but it should still mile an hour better than that. If you are unwilling to change gears and converter then I really think you should step way way down on your cam. J.Rob
 
I have less cam and less head, My 367 went 93 in the 1/8th@3650 race wt. I have full 3 inch exhaust to the bumper, and a 750DP.
-I have a stick-car with a 10.97 starter gear(3.55 x 3.09) and I babied it out at 3000 cuz it blows the 325/50-15DRs away most of those 93 mphs.(street suspension, no traction aides)
It will spin the 295s down to just above idle, with the line lock on.It will break 295s loose at 45/50mph with just a stomp.

Specs
4.04 x 3.58 =367cubes
OOTB Eddies, RPM-AG & 750DP
10.75Scr, 8.7Dcr,.034Quench,175 psi cylinder pressure (aluminum heads)
HE3037cam. 276/286/110, lift .549/.571, .050 of 230/237
Timing; 14/34@3400 (plus 22 ported)
Full twin 3inch pipes with TTIs, and Dynomaxers
I am at 900ft.

NearlyPAGE 6 and still no compression numbers.
-The compression results are the number one go-to when power is in question. If you don't have at least 165 with iron heads, you will never be happy.
And a leakdown is the number 2 test. You are looking for less than 4%, Under 2% on a fresh engine, And close to zero with file-fit plasma Molys.

I also agree with that TC being a total mismatch, And that cam will want to be shifted deep into the 6000s. With 3.23s your engine is sleeping most of the way to 85. In second gear it is barely awake at 85.She is only pulling from 40 mph to whenever you shifted, Ima guessing 60mph.Then the Rs are back in the basement struggling from 3600ish, to hit 85 at 5200ish. So basically that engine is putting down full power from 40 to 60, and maybe from 78 to 85. That totals 27 mph. Out of 85 that is just 32% of the run! Of course it is slow!
-Something has got to go!
Either A)the 3.23s are out(along with that TC), or B)the cam. Pick one based on useage.
With 10/1 Scr,and with a 66*ICA, the Wallace calculator spits out 7.96Dcr, and 158psi at sealevel. These are not bad numbers for iron heads.
-If you really wanna hit 90 say, you will need a final drive ratio of 5.81. Almost obviously you are not interested in that. So you are gonna have to trap at the top of second gear. So 5.81/1.54 =3.77 the closest being 3.73s. These will get you 90 @ 6400 with 27 inch tires. Then, to get off the line you will need at least a 3000TC or better. And yeah drop the pipes. And yeah forget the vacuum secondary carb.The formula for carb selection is (CID X RPM)/3456. so (360 x 6400)/3456 =666cfm; so at 600 you are a solid 10%undersized;according to the formula. Working the formula backwards, you are good to about 5800.
-Then experiment with different 1-2 shift points. With the wide ratio 904(2.74-1.54-1.00)Ima thinking 6600 or better. Maybe as high as 6800. Make sure your valve springs, lifters, and lifter preloads, are up to the task.
-6400 might sound like too high to trap at, but with ported heads the engine will pull long after the power peak, and the option is 3.55s, and that will not cut it out of the gate. So Ima thinking 3.73s is the minimum gear.3.55s being 95% of 3.73s would pull the trap rpm to a corresponding 95% which would be 6100.
Your long-block looks solid.
This is the order I would upgrade if funds are limited;
(1)exhaust,(2)exhaust, (3)TC, (4)gears or carb, (5)carb or gears.
If you do it one atta time, post results here, so others can learn too.

Dusterguy
You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust.What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this. But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 10% more charge with scavenging, it will feel 10% bigger than without.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.
 
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Betcha it cranks something dismal like 110-120. I would want to see at least 170-180 with that cam. I've never used that cam but even plugging it in to Desktop dyno it gave poor results--probably from the fairly late intake closing point. J.Rob
 
Dusterguy said:
Sounds like you got very healthy engine.

I have also had this car long time 15 years and when I bought this it was almost stock 318 engine and that was really slow. So looking that I have made some progress, but problem is I constantly want more performance.
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Nice, I started out with a slant 6. Tried to hop that up, and it was OK. One day out of the blue, I just pulled it and stuffed in an EFI'd 5.9 Magnum that I resealed , recammed and re- valve- springed. It ended up having a bad ring set in one cylinder, but it was still pretty fast.
 
Exhaust, too much back pressure will kill any scavenging affects/overlap and dilute the cylinder charge because it can't get out. It doesn't matter what engine it is. It will absolutely kill power. The smaller the engine the more pronounced it seems. Worked on a lot of Harleys dyno testing and excessive back pressure can equate to 12-15 horse loss on 80 ci and torque goes down. Close to 15% loss on exhaust alone. That 50hp number that's been thrown out is probably conservative, but not the only issue. Compression numbers would be nice and verify how much timing chain slack you got going on.
 
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Just looked at cam specs and the engine's in and out parts are choking it and power starts at 2500rpm, but still do a compression test.
 
The OP, whether he wants to believe it or not, is not the only one who's dropped a 400 horse engine into an otherwise stock chassis and was disappointed, myself included. All the answers are already in this thread.
 
Dusterguy
-You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust. What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this.But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called overlap/scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 9% more charge with scavenging, it will feel about 3% bigger than without (only about 1/3 of the energy gets to the crank).That's an easy 11 cubes and at 1.1 hp per cube that's 12 horsepower.And that's just with plus 9%.
If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.This can add up to a lot of power.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.
-So do a little research on this until you get a good handle on it.
-I see no good reason why you can't better my trap(93).You have more engine than do I. I went to the track and ran 4 passes that day and have never gone back.Out of the 4 passes I had just the one successful run. On two runs I missed a shift, and on the third pass the tower messed up, and lost my slip. That necessitated a 4th run, which, thankfully, was successful.Then I went home and rebuilt my shifter, and have never missed another shift.
- I suppose you might want to argue this overlap-cycle, cuz it seems you are just that kindof guy,so don't take my word for it.Just drop the pipes and see what happens. Trap results will be instant if the pipes are too small. And it's real hard to argue with results.
I should also mention that If your engine is locked into a 2000 stall, and is operating with more than 3 or 4 psi in the exhaust, trying to get the tires to spin off the line is gonna be tough with 3.23s
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Dusterguy
-You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust. What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this.But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called overlap/scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 9% more charge with scavenging, it will feel about 3% bigger than without (only about 1/3 of the energy gets to the crank).That's an easy 11 cubes and at 1.1 hp per cube that's 12 horsepower.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.This can add up to a lot of power.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.
-So do a little research on this until you get a good handle on it.
-I see no good reason why you can't better my trap(93).You have more engine than do I. I went to the track and ran 4 passes that day and have never gone back.Out of the 4 passes I had just the one successful run. On two runs I missed a shift, and on the third pass the tower messed up, and lost my slip. That necessitated a 4th run, which, thankfully, was successful.Then I went home and rebuilt my shifter, and have never missed another shift.
- I suppose you might want to argue this overlap-cycle, cuz it seems you are just that kindof guy,so don't take my word for it.Just drop the pipes and see what happens. Trap results will be instant if the pipes are too small. And it's real hard to argue with results.
I should also mention that If your engine is locked into a 2000 stall, and is operating with more than 3 or 4 psi in the exhaust, trying to get the tires to spin off the line is gonna be tough with 3.23s
Click to expand...

This ^^^^ and what everyone else has mentioned.

The heads you installed have exhaust ports that flow considerably better then your old ones. This will allow more air/ fuel charge reversal. If you can't exhaust out you can't get fuel in. It's really pretty simple... Your better flowing heads allow more flow to reverse against the exhaust backpressure which stalls and contaminates the intake charge. Once your exhaust flow is corrected you can try to tune in what you have. Adding a larger carb will help, but only after the exhaust is fixed. Even after the engine is properly tuned it will still be slow due to the low stall and wimpy gears you have. Start with the exhaust, verify compression, then fine tune the fuel and ignition. Once that is done try a larger carb and get it dialed in. Move on to steeper gears like a 3.91, a high stall convertor and possibly a wide ratio conversion on your trans. Basically the improved head flow worked as a disadvantage for you due to your restrictive exhaust.
 
3.91s might hit 6700 or more at the top of second(1.54ratio), to trap at 90mph with 27s. This is probably well past optimum for that cam.And pulling a shift into direct, that close to track's end, will probably slow you down.
 
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Greetings from America!

I have a fully roller 360 with RHS heads, 600 carb, a quenched 9.5:1 CR, 727 w/ stock converter, 2.5 duals H pipe and mild cam, I can do a burnout with 32" tires and 3.23's in a ramcharger @ 6500 ft.

Open up exhaust
Bigger carb
Air gap intake
Lower gears
Tighter quench


Do not buy a single plane intake
 
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And this is the short version, don't really get AJ started !!
AJ/FormS said:
I have less cam and less head, My 367 went 93 in the 1/8th@3650 race wt. I have full 3 inch exhaust to the bumper, and a 750DP.
-I have a stick-car with a 10.97 starter gear(3.55 x 3.09) and I babied it out at 3000 cuz it blows the 325/50-15DRs away most of those 93 mphs.(street suspension, no traction aides)
It will spin the 295s down to just above idle, with the line lock on.It will break 295s loose at 45/50mph with just a stomp.

Specs
4.04 x 3.58 =367cubes
OOTB Eddies, RPM-AG & 750DP
10.75Scr, 8.7Dcr,.034Quench,175 psi cylinder pressure (aluminum heads)
HE3037cam. 276/286/110, lift .549/.571, .050 of 230/237
Timing; 14/34@3400 (plus 22 ported)
Full twin 3inch pipes with TTIs, and Dynomaxers
I am at 900ft.

NearlyPAGE 6 and still no compression numbers.
-The compression results are the number one go-to when power is in question. If you don't have at least 165 with iron heads, you will never be happy.
And a leakdown is the number 2 test. You are looking for less than 4%, Under 2% on a fresh engine, And close to zero with file-fit plasma Molys.

I also agree with that TC being a total mismatch, And that cam will want to be shifted deep into the 6000s. With 3.23s your engine is sleeping most of the way to 85. In second gear it is barely awake at 85.She is only pulling from 40 mph to whenever you shifted, Ima guessing 60mph.Then the Rs are back in the basement struggling from 3600ish, to hit 85 at 5200ish. So basically that engine is putting down full power from 40 to 60, and maybe from 78 to 85. That totals 27 mph. Out of 85 that is just 32% of the run! Of course it is slow!
-Something has got to go!
Either A)the 3.23s are out(along with that TC), or B)the cam. Pick one based on useage.
With 10/1 Scr,and with a 66*ICA, the Wallace calculator spits out 7.96Dcr, and 158psi at sealevel. These are not bad numbers for iron heads.
-If you really wanna hit 90 say, you will need a final drive ratio of 5.81. Almost obviously you are not interested in that. So you are gonna have to trap at the top of second gear. So 5.81/1.54 =3.77 the closest being 3.73s. These will get you 90 @ 6400 with 27 inch tires. Then, to get off the line you will need at least a 3000TC or better. And yeah drop the pipes. And yeah forget the vacuum secondary carb.The formula for carb selection is (CID X RPM)/3456. so (360 x 6400)/3456 =666cfm; so at 600 you are a solid 10%undersized;according to the formula. Working the formula backwards, you are good to about 5800.
-Then experiment with different 1-2 shift points. With the wide ratio 904(2.74-1.54-1.00)Ima thinking 6600 or better. Maybe as high as 6800. Make sure your valve springs, lifters, and lifter preloads, are up to the task.
-6400 might sound like too high to trap at, but with ported heads the engine will pull long after the power peak, and the option is 3.55s, and that will not cut it out of the gate. So Ima thinking 3.73s is the minimum gear.3.55s being 95% of 3.73s would pull the trap rpm to a corresponding 95% which would be 6100.
Your long-block looks solid.
This is the order I would upgrade if funds are limited;
(1)exhaust,(2)exhaust, (3)TC, (4)gears or carb, (5)carb or gears.
If you do it one atta time, post results here, so others can learn too.

Dusterguy
You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust.What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this. But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 10% more charge with scavenging, it will feel 10% bigger than without.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.
Click to expand...
 
AJ/FormS said:
Dusterguy
-You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust. What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this.But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called overlap/scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 9% more charge with scavenging, it will feel about 3% bigger than without (only about 1/3 of the energy gets to the crank).That's an easy 11 cubes and at 1.1 hp per cube that's 12 horsepower.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.This can add up to a lot of power.
-The proof is very easy;just drop the pipes and watch the trap speed.You can also see the proof in the intake manifold; pop the carb off, and look towards the ports.You will see the head ports filled with soot, and the worse it is, the further into the intake,the soot will extend.Alternatively, you can braze a length of brake tubing into an exhaust pipe (leave at least a foot sticking out), and measure the back-pressure. The closer to zero, obviously, the better and more than about 2 or 3psi will seriously affect the scavenge-cycle. By 4 psi your high-performace engine, isn't anymore. This test has to be performed at full throttle,full load, and the bigger the gauge the better,cuz the engine is very sensitive to back-pressure and the more accuracy in the gauge the better.Your 10 psi vacuum/fuel pump tester won't cut it, except to ballpark it, or to point out an obviously bad condition.Neutral blips will never find it! Get a helper......drive safe, I ain't paying your speeding ticket.....................
-Chrysler knew all about this EGR back in the 70s and used it to good effect in that it delayed the use of EGR valves for a couple of years after every body else had them.
-So do a little research on this until you get a good handle on it.
-I see no good reason why you can't better my trap(93).You have more engine than do I. I went to the track and ran 4 passes that day and have never gone back.Out of the 4 passes I had just the one successful run. On two runs I missed a shift, and on the third pass the tower messed up, and lost my slip. That necessitated a 4th run, which, thankfully, was successful.Then I went home and rebuilt my shifter, and have never missed another shift.
- I suppose you might want to argue this overlap-cycle, cuz it seems you are just that kindof guy,so don't take my word for it.Just drop the pipes and see what happens. Trap results will be instant if the pipes are too small. And it's real hard to argue with results.
I should also mention that If your engine is locked into a 2000 stall, and is operating with more than 3 or 4 psi in the exhaust, trying to get the tires to spin off the line is gonna be tough with 3.23s
Click to expand...

Read this over and over until it make sense! if you can't understand it! post up what you don't get and a lot of us can explain in more detail.
When you understand why the overlap can pull extra air/fuel in as well destroy air/fuel charge with already burnt fuel in your intake(that power stroke won't be too impressive!) you can start to get why your combo need to change. and make it do what you expect it to do.

Now after reading 5 pages, here is my recommendation.
Take that cam out and store it in a safe place for later!
Put the same cam back in that you had in your old eng.YOU WILL NOW BE ABLE TO DO BURNOUTS AT WILL ONCE AGAIN!
When you get what AJ/FormS has wrote, You will understand why what i have said will work!!!!!!!
 
I really want you to read and understand what was posted above........ but maybe this is a simpler way to explain it.

As a general rule or basic rule, an 4 stroke internal combustion eng has a 2500 rpm power band.
NOTE: these number are not exact but will give you the idea.
stock eng has a power band(power potential) between 1000 rpm and 3500 rpm (yes you can rev the eng to 4 or 4500 but the power fall off vary fast above 3500.
Pull the stock cam and put a mild street cam and now it make more power! BUT that power is made at a higher rpm.

With new cam now you can make power up to 4500 rpm. HOWEVER! you still only have a 2500 rpm range. So, now your power will come on latter. Now you have a eng that runs grate above 2000 rpm and will pull to 4500, but will still rev to maybe 5500 rpm

That cam^^^^ would work great in your engine. Why? because you have a 2200 stall! (will start out in the power range) will burn the tire and fill it pull all the way thru!!!

Now let's look at your cam.
comp said that you need a "minimal" stall of 3000 rpm which means that you really need a 3500 stall converter to get the most of your cam. So 3500 +2500= 6000 rpm and will probably rev 6500 or so.

Now with your/ this cam^^^^You slam the skinny peddle down(gas pedal) and it stalled up to 2200.....struggles and won't spin the tires......2500 same story......3000......starts to make some power.......3500 now it feel good!

EXAMPLE #1 MAKES WAY MORE POWER AND TORQUE AT 2200 RPM (Can spin tires)
EXAMPLE #2 IS MORE FUN BECAUSE THE POWER SEAM TO REV HIGHER (Can boil smoke of them rear tires.)
EXAMPLE #3 IS BORING! AS YOUR WAITING WAY TOO LONG FOR THE POWER TO COME ON, OR START. (Can't break tire loose let alone do a burn out.)
BUT WHY? IT'S A BIGGER CAM, MAKES MORE POWER THAN EITHER OF THE SMALLER CAM ABOVE IT...................
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Dusterguy
-You probably understand the 4-stroke cycle as Intake/Compression/Power/Exhaust. What you may not understand is overlap/scavenging. George (post 110) has a good handle on this.But with bigger cams there is a 5th cycle called overlap/scavenging that is supposed to occur during the overlap period when both valves are open. That is the whole idea of having tuned headers and overlap period in the first place. This scavenge-cycle does more than just help exhausting; it actually helps to pull in a larger fuel/air charge than the engine can physically pull in by itself. So if the engine could pull in 9% more charge with scavenging, it will feel about 3% bigger than without (only about 1/3 of the energy gets to the crank).That's an easy 11 cubes and at 1.1 hp per cube that's 12 horsepower.If you prevent scavenging from working, by forcing the exhaust into positive pressure with too small an exhaust system, then scavenging cannot work.
-But it is worse than that.If you force the exhaust into positive pressure, the pressure backs up, and when the exhaust is supposed to be leaving the engine, it is possible, during overlap, for the exhaust to back up and enter the intake manifold. It can get so bad that the exhaust will try to exit the intake through the carb.Guess what that does to power.Your cam has a lot of overlap, making this phenomenon a very real possibility.If the exhaust ends up in the intake, it reduces the pressure differential across the venturies, which means a much smaller A/F charge can enter.
-So now your engine is under a tripple whammy. Loss of scavenging, loss of induction, and intake charge dilution.This can add up to a lot of power.
Click to expand...

Very well explained! Always enjoy reading your tech heavy posts lol
 
To the OP: If you want to try to work the lock-up torque converter, then change your cam to a much smaller one. You have good static compression ratio about 10:1 as you said, and the DCR is not to awfully low but could be better. (I checked all your numbers and they work out to be close.) A smaller cam will match better to your torque converter and be better matched for your rear axle gear ratio. You have bought high flow heads and cam which are suited to higher RPM engine operation to take advantage of the increased breathing, but your gearing and torque converter and exhaust are set up for a low RPM torque engine.

Is this car for the drag strip only?

And BTW, your English is very good. I deal with a German manufacturer all the time so I have to be careful on how I say things so that they can be understood correctly, and not use unusual American expressions.
 
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