hotrod swinger
Well-Known Member
Last I knew you could get the oil and temp senders, but not fuel, let me clarify.......
Sorry, I wasn’t clear, I was talking about the solid state instrument voltage regulator.
Last I knew you could get the oil and temp senders, but not fuel, let me clarify.......
Google up 'RTE'Sorry, I wasn’t clear, I was talking about the solid state instrument voltage regulator.
Beat you too it!Google up 'RTE'
But your car's IVR is working. Your quick checks show the temperature and fuel gages seem to work. The resistance from the temp and fuel senders appears to off. Find a temperature sender that is closer to 75 Ohms at room temperature or below. Dana covered the aftermarket fuel sender issues Fuel gauge empty when half full, temp gauge low when engine hot, where do I start?Sorry, I wasn’t clear, I was talking about the solid state instrument voltage regulator.
Operating temperature is not always the center of the gage.Presently the temperature gauge reads low even when the engine is at normal/high operating temperature.
Anything between 170 and 230 is normal warmed up temperature as long as it makes sense based on conditions.
Just crawled under the car. I have a ground strap in place. But it may need to be cleaned up to ensure good contact right?
The aftermarket senders a a linear design and do not account for the tank shape, so they don’t work properly.
Anything between 170 and 230 is normal warmed up temperature as long as it makes sense based on conditions.
Thanks for that information. This is exactly how my gauge is working right now, and honestly I can live with that. After all, I’m just trying to avoid running out of gas, right? Maybe someday I will swap an OEM sender.
Having been a perfectionist most of my life, I have found that if I can curb that a bit, I have a lot more fun driving them than working on them all the time fixing something that might not really need fixed. It’s an ongoing struggle for me….
That could be thermostat stuck open. Have you checked actual water temp?Thanks for that information. This is exactly how my gauge is working right now, and honestly I can live with that. After all, I’m just trying to avoid running out of gas, right? Maybe someday I will swap an OEM sender.
This is where I am running right now:
View attachment 1715854011
Maybe it will read higher in the summer. If this is not considered a “too low” reading, and I can be assured the gauge will spike if my temperature increases, again I can live with this. I tested resistance at the sender, and I’m confident the sender is functioning properly.
Resistance at temperature sender:
Almost entirely cooled: 110
Normal operating temperature: 24
The resistance from the temp and fuel senders appears to off. Find a temperature sender that is closer to 75 Ohms at room temperature
New sender is pretty easy & cheap. See if you can get a Mopar one.
The needle should be mid scale at that resistance BUT "is the resistance" actually appearing at the gauge stud?This is where my needle is at operating temperature with resistance at 24:
View attachment 1715854536
Am I wasting my time changing the sender?