Looks like you better hook up the degree wheel. Just sayin'
you beat me to it.Looks like you better hook up the degree wheel. Just sayin'
Looks like you better hook up the degree wheel. Just sayin'
I re-timed it. Is that correct now?
I think the saying is "im a day late and $3,000 dollars short".
View attachment 1715285053
LMAO!I’m sure that somewhere in the world, someone is making the same mistake....... right about........now.
And as a side note....as shown in your photo...you are on Number 6 firing.....
there's some guy/business doing 408 crate motors I've seen mentioned several times on this site. He seems to have some loyal clients, who claim he makes a good motor, good power, that lives. I can't recall the name offhand, I think he was located in the midwest. I'm sure someone else on this forum can come up with the name.
an acquaintance of mine, was assembling a gen2 Hemi. He was trying to do it fast and not really thinking about what he was doing. The pistons are extensively domed with huge valve notches, and the valves are not arranged in a line like a usual Mopar wedge. He managed to put several pistons in backwards, just bolted on the heads and when he tried to throw the rocker assemblies on he bent some brand new valves. You really need to pay attention to details when building an engine, especially expensive, high performance ones.Cool pics, what an oversight though.
Always degree, they can be as much as 8 degree off on the old grinds. Some are spot on. Clay checking valve clearance is always good with big lift cams and at the very least, roll your motors over by hand as you assemble them.Too many people get ahead of themselves and find it doesn't even spin or parts are missing.
Good luck next time.
an acquaintance of mine, was assembling a gen2 Hemi. He was trying to do it fast and not really thinking about what he was doing. The pistons are extensively domed with huge valve notches, and the valves are not arranged in a line like a usual Mopar wedge. He managed to put several pistons in backwards, just bolted on the heads and when he tried to throw the rocker assemblies on he bent some brand new valves. You really need to pay attention to details when building an engine, especially expensive, high performance ones.
I've never worked with dialing a Magnum engine, but I used to change the tip of my dial indicator to a flat tip, and place it on the top edge of the hydraulic lifter. You could also just use a solid lifter, or they make tools that slip into the bore like a lifter to make it easier to dial indicate. Goodson sells them, I believe .I was initially getting p-v contact with my build but that was due to the lifters being fully pumped up and the pushrods being slightly too long, once I got shorter pushrods I could assemble the rockers and slowly rotate the engine so the spring pressure would bleed-down the lifters.
Wouldn't spinning the oil pump pump the lifters back up? I've also been searching around and i've seen a couple people mention they ran cams slightly bigger than mine on a stock Magnum short block with no P-V clearance issues.
I guess if I really want to get this right I gotta hit the junkyard and grab 2 more lifters to convert into solid testers.
I've never worked with dialing a Magnum engine, but I used to change the tip of my dial indicator to a flat tip, and place it on the top edge of the hydraulic lifter. You could also just use a solid lifter, or they make tools that slip into the bore like a lifter to make it easier to dial indicate. Goodson sells them, I believe .
of course there are light v. springs, you can use and you can "map out" your clearances, and/or make a spread sheet to track the clearances before and after the critical valve events. I've never assembled anything pushing the envelope enough(over 0.500" lift) to warrant doing it. It can actually be quite a complex problem, because there are so many variables involved. I don't know how you could do it with hydraulic lifters, unless maybe you temporarily ran a pair of solid lifters and adjustable pushrods to check each cylinder. It would be pretty time consuming to do, unless you just used the clay method.Oh i'm talking about checking actual piston-valve clearance, I already degree-d the cam with a degree wheel using a dial indicator on the edge of the lifter just like you describe and it came out spot-on with the 0 advance keyway on the crank sprocket, I made sure I was lining up the correct dots on the sprockets too. Cam is a custom-grind hydraulic roller from Racer Brown.
Yeah, the issue is that there dots and triangles and squares by the various keyways in the crank sprocket, which are used to indicate how the timing is advanced, retarded, etc., by using that particular keyway. But those symbols by the keyways are to be ignored when 'aligning the dots'.I plan on it next time. Too late for this engine. I lined up the small crank dot with the dot on the cam gear. Which SHOULD be correct assuming the cam and all is made correctly, right? Or do you still see something wrong? I'm trying to learn.
Yeah, the issue is that there dots and triangles and squares by the various keyways in the crank sprocket, which are used to indicate how the timing is advanced, retarded, etc., by using that particular keyway. But those symbols by the keyways are to be ignored when 'aligning the dots'.
As you show it 're-timed' is on the money, as far as 'aligning the dots' goes; the hollow dot on the valley between teeth on the crank sprocket is lined up right below the cam sprocket dot. As has been said, that is where you start and then you check timing with the degree wheel to make sure it is very close to the proper ICL (and to make adjustments if it is not). You also make sure that some goofed up marking or keyway machining is not causing more timing havoc ; that is rare but not unknown.
The best advice don't rush when building engines and if it can be measured do it. If it doesn't run right at least you will really know first hand what you have.