Massive oil leaks.

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wazoo64 said:
Running good now but a little nervous to really romp on it with the 440rockers. Lots of bad reviews on them. It's only a 6000 rpm build so hopefully they won't explode like I've heard they have done for others.
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Most of the complaints I've heard about the 440 Source heads were concerning the keepers on the valves. From what I've read you really need a competent person setting them up to make sure they're right. I think I'd ask the shop that repaired your problems to check them out for you.
 
1967 'cuda said:
Most of the complaints I've heard about the 440 Source heads were concerning the keepers on the valves. From what I've read you really need a competent person setting them up to make sure they're right. I think I'd ask the shop that repaired your problems to check them out for you.
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I have the victor heads with 440source rockers. I have seen some negative stuff out there about the rockers blowing up. 2 mopar builders told me to yank the 440 offset rockers out. $300 rockers can't be worth a damn. I feel like I'm rolling the dice when I rev it. Would love for someone to tell me I have nothing to worry about.
 
I paid more for the pro magnums and dont regret it at all. Torque converters and rocker arms - 2 items to never try to save money on!
 
wazoo64 said:
I guess the question now which offset rockers are better than 440source and which ones are the best?
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I've seen plenty of chatter about rockers from Hughs Engines. All good too. I have Crane Gold race rockers. They are aluminum. No problems so far but I'm going to get rid of them because aluminum rockers are not intended for street use and long duration driving. One thing I did when building my engine was go with the lightest valve springs possible to keep the valve train stress to a minimum. I worked with COMP to get what I needed. They set me up with springs that will probly float somewhere around 6800. I have the rev limiter in my MSD set at 6500. I think using springs that are stiffer than you need is foolish unless its a manuall trans with a heavy flywheel. A car with that setup can rev beyond the limiter if a gear is missed while hammering it.
 
d55dave said:
Looks to me like clear bathtub silicone, not an automotive product. I feel your pain with the builder.
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I said the same thing...window sealer? Jeez, throw that guy under an Amtrak! Found a blade.....classic!

OOh, no front seal? I called it in post #2, who's keeping score? None of us are happy with your situation but the more of us who know whats out there, the better.
 
Check the forums to see who's happy with what, and not happy. I came down to Harland Sharp, Comp and Crane. I have read about unhappy owners of Hughes, and the Chinese stuff for $300. Plenty of racers on here can tell you their experiences.
 
pishta said:
I said the same thing...window sealer? Jeez, throw that guy under an Amtrak! Found a blade.....classic!

OOh, no front seal? I called it in post #2, who's keeping score? None of us are happy with your situation but the more of us who know whats out there, the better.
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No front seal, no valley tray seal, no pan seal, no rear cap seal, ... "Hey, let's use crap silicone everywhere and have no crankcase ventilation. Should be fine".
 
Hey good news is finally got this beast running. Now I need to figure out how to keep it cool. Champion 3 Row with dual 12inch. 3000cfm. I was told a 2 row with larger tubes would do better. It struggles to keep up in hot days.
 
How hot does it get (ambient and engine)? How wide is the core? When does it get hot, and does it creep or shoot up at some particular point?
 
moper said:
How hot does it get (ambient and engine)? How wide is the core? When does it get hot, and does it creep or shoot up at some particular point?
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I haven't had much road time but it stays around 180 for a while then starts climbing above 210 water temp at the pump exit. I won't let it go above that. I don't think its a fan CFM issue because it got hot at fwy speed as well.

26 inch core with 3 rows of .75 tubes.
 
What's the temp of the coolant leaving the Tstat housing? If it's ok at idle, check your timing and tuneup. You've got more than enough radiator and fan for it.
 
wazoo64 said:
I have the victor heads with 440source rockers. I have seen some negative stuff out there about the rockers blowing up. 2 mopar builders told me to yank the 440 offset rockers out. $300 rockers can't be worth a damn. I feel like I'm rolling the dice when I rev it. Would love for someone to tell me I have nothing to worry about.
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We have 440 source 1.6 rockers on a .620 .626 hughes solid cam. 155lb closed and 370lb open springs (huges 1107), motor only has maybe 50 miles on it but after the cam was broke in ive been beating the piss out of it, 6500rpm on the limiter, some things i didnt like was that the rocker barely hit the retainer so i clearenced the bottom of the rockers, also on the rocker where the roller slot is machined the material seemed a lottle thin, but no troubles with them yet
 
I think less than 40% would be better. But that isnt the only reason, im sure. I have used water wetter for years in bikes and cars.
 
We are only getting 62 degrees for a high tomorrow. I made my first fire Sunday night. Good power makin' weather is a coming!
 
Chuckbizkits said:
No front seal, no valley tray seal, no pan seal, no rear cap seal, ... "Hey, let's use crap silicone everywhere and have no crankcase ventilation. Should be fine".
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I was pretty forgiving about it all until I pulled the pan and saw the oil pickup gouged by crank and metal debris all over magnetic plug. View attachment image-34866172.jpg View attachment image-3912296358.jpg Razor blade and front seal spring was an added bonus. View attachment image-3210486607.jpg
 
wazoo64 said:
i was pretty forgiving about it all until i pulled the pan and saw the oil pickup gouged by crank and metal debris all over magnetic plug. Razor blade and front seal spring was an added bonus.
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