AlV
Crabs in a barrel
This is motivation right here! Thanks Louie!
Lookin good!
-AlV
Lookin good!
-AlV
My 70 Dart
- Thread starter Louie70Dart
- Start date
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Ok, I was unemployed for about nine months. I started a new job, similar to what I used to do, not quite the same, but still in paint. It's big, big company in Oakcreek Wi. Been there about three weeks so far, sure beats unemployment! Anyway, while there I learned that the sprayouts came out very clean, hardly any crap on them, and the rooms are not the cleanest with people coming in and out all the time. I'm thinking it's the fact that the paints sets up very fast, leaving little chance for crud to stick to the wet paint. It's two stage, single component reduced to spray. Totally different from what I'm used to. That was 2k polyurethanes. The 2k stayed wet for a long time allowing dirt to embed itself into the film. That's what I think anyway. So.....the point to all this is I bought some two stage single component, reduce paint today to test my theory out. Only picked up a pint, so I'm out $25. I'm thinking it's going to work, I feel positive anyway. So out to the garage to reactivate some parts I already have sprayed, and I'm going to spray it tonight or tomorrow. I'll post pics when I'm done.
Ok, next day, Sunday the 29th of December, 2013. Pics of the fender extensions. I need to sand it down better for the final spray.........keep forgetting! So well, this was to see if I could spray at below freezing outside. I have one of those torpedo type heaters also, it got up to about 59 F inside, definitely workable temp.
Ok, next day, Sunday the 29th of December, 2013. Pics of the fender extensions. I need to sand it down better for the final spray.........keep forgetting! So well, this was to see if I could spray at below freezing outside. I have one of those torpedo type heaters also, it got up to about 59 F inside, definitely workable temp.
A lot has happened since then, and most of it is frustrating. I had the paint come off those pieces like crazy because of mixing lacquer with urethane. Seems they didn't like each other. Paint came off easier and faster than any stripper I ever used, and I've used some real good stuff. I had some paint sitting around for over 2 years. It's 3 component base/clear used in general aviation. I finally got my trunk to a straightness that I could live with. I painted it with the aluminum paint. Flowed out real nice, but I had micro blisters from me being stupid and not using the correct mix ration. Overall not bad, flowed out very nice, but the stinking blisters, solvent pop. Well, I let it sit for now, cause when it's in the sunlight you can't see them. Well, I got the hood pretty good. Then painted it and AGAIN, I was in a hurry and absent minded and wrong mix ratio!!! Damn it!! Blisters. I sanded them down to where you couldn't feel or see them. Today, I went out there and did the right mix, but craters. LOL, what the hell? I thought I may have contaminated the mix with paint thinner. So I grabbed rags and solvent and wiped it off, then wiped it till it was clean. Tack ragged it and mixed again, making sure everything was clean and free from anything that didn't belong in the paint. Sprayed and the paint just would not flow out. Getting pretty aggravated at this time. So I mixed up another batch and sprayed, well it seems that the paint just does not want to flow. At least that's what I'm thinking. I had some left over MAK that is the main solvent used in the paint, I put that in there and mixed it well. I am going to wait for the hood to cure and see what's up. I will set it aside and try painting the front valance next. I'll sand it with 400 or 500 grit paper, wipe good, tack rag then mix up paint and see what happens. I'll post pictures of the pop when I can. Took pictures, just haven't dl'd them yet. And this is not the first time I have sprayed this stuff, I have sprayed it quite a bit.
Ok, here are a couple of pictures of the defect.
I think part of the problem is I am laying it on too thick, and not letting it cure flash enough before shooting another coat. But like I said above, it don't want to flow....... With one coat there is not a continual film..... Back to the drawing board.
I think part of the problem is I am laying it on too thick, and not letting it cure flash enough before shooting another coat. But like I said above, it don't want to flow....... With one coat there is not a continual film..... Back to the drawing board.
Ok, I felt it had to be one of two things. Either contamination in the paint, or the paint was to thick. Too thick meaning solvent escaped from the gallon can. I had some MAK, about a half a pint that I added, along with some acetone. Not scientific, but personal judgment based on what I know about this paint. I sprayed the rear valence about 2 hours ago. It covered very well with no loss of film, cratering, YAYYYY!!! Now, it is dry to touch, meaning no paint transfer when I touch it. Still tacky, but but no transfer. Now to let it cure more and hope there are no blisters/solvent pop. I'm hoping that because of the flow issues before, that I had to lay a lot of paint on it for it to lay out smooth. Lower film means less chance for solvent to get trapped. Where blisters/pop comes from. Knock on wood.
Added a picture, fairly dry, still somewhat "green", but cured. And NO POPS or blisters!!!! Am I ever happy!!:blob::cheers: :headbang:
Added a picture, fairly dry, still somewhat "green", but cured. And NO POPS or blisters!!!! Am I ever happy!!:blob::cheers: :headbang:
The hood is finally painted!!! PITA for sure, still a little green, I want it to cure up more before I move it to the sunny outside for a picture. This time I didn't get any runs/sags or blisters or nothing like that. Some dirt, but livable. Pictures when I can. I want to move the car to where it's more parallel in the garage so I'll have more room. Then scuff the jams, trunk, sill plate area, things like that and then spray. Getting there slowly but surely.
Ok, attached two pics. Still can't get the good metal flake flash, but you can kinda see it. Whats nice about this paint is it hides in two passes. So there is very little chance of the tiger striping you can get from the candies. But the candies are real cool! Just takes a lot more skill and better equipment to do it.
Ok, attached two pics. Still can't get the good metal flake flash, but you can kinda see it. Whats nice about this paint is it hides in two passes. So there is very little chance of the tiger striping you can get from the candies. But the candies are real cool! Just takes a lot more skill and better equipment to do it.
RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!! I had some defects on the trunk lid I painted already. So for the last several days, in between other household jobs, I had sanded down the trunk with 100 grit at first then went with 240 grit for last. Clean, clean, clean, then cleaned again to get as much dirt/crud off the floor and the trunk lid itself. I went and sprayed the effects topcoat today....... Same thing, craters.... Man, am I ever ticked off! I used the same methods I did with the rear valence and the hood, but with different results. Only I didn't cover the trunk with a solid color. Could this be the problem, the aluminum is causing the problems with my paint? The craters are not big to start, but small. Once I had the paint mixed I was committed to using it. So I hammered the hell out of it to see if that would eliminate the craters. I was thinking it was a film issue that would be corrected with enough paint to promote a complete film. That was not a complete removal of the issue. So now I have to wait until it's fully cured and then sand that bugger down to the solid blue base, then repaint. The only good thing is that the trunk is very, very clean/ free from crud. Oh well, back at it tomorrow.
I was really ticked off. So I went and stripped that sucker back to bare metal. Primed it last night, 6/6/14 and I've been using this primer/surfacer that's real easy to sand. When I stripped it there were places where there were over 6 mils of stuff! LOL, yeah, that much. So what I'm doing now, since I have an idea of how bad the hail damage is, I'm spraying consecutive coats of that primer/surfacer, concentrating on where I can see the dimples from the hail. I'll let it cure overnight, then block sand it tomorrow. Hopefully I can keep the build up within reason. Thanks for watching! LOL
Here is one picture of trunk lid after primer and surfacer applied. Sanded down, with the darker spots being low places. As before, a ton of hail damage. Car came from Aurora, CO, so ask the members from the area about how bad hail can be....LOL. Went out there and applied more of the surfacer, concentrating on the low spots, and then finishing with a regular spray pattern. I'll let it cure up good for several hours and see if it can be sanded then.
New picture from the 11th of June, 2014. Had to apply multiple coats of the surfacer to finally get it to where I can live with it. Not perfect by any means, but dis ain't no Councours Elegante car. Pretty cold here in SE Wi. today, it won't even make it to 60*. LOL So I'll wait until tomorrow when it's supposed to get into the 70* hopefully! Then I will topcoat it with a blue I have and go from there. I have my fingers crossed.
New picture from the 11th of June, 2014. Had to apply multiple coats of the surfacer to finally get it to where I can live with it. Not perfect by any means, but dis ain't no Councours Elegante car. Pretty cold here in SE Wi. today, it won't even make it to 60*. LOL So I'll wait until tomorrow when it's supposed to get into the 70* hopefully! Then I will topcoat it with a blue I have and go from there. I have my fingers crossed.
Trunk lid is finally painted. Unfortunately, while there are no craters or other defects, I picked up a bunch of dirt that fell on it after the fact..... Things like the seed pods from dogwood trees, there are two that fell on it. One well after dry to touch, but still there. I don't know how, but I got a lot of crap after spraying. Stuff came out of nowhere. Not really, it came from somewhere, but it looked pretty good right after spraying, then it went bad from there. Wait, it gets worst. I had enough paint at one time to make up two gallons. Well, I have had to respray the few pieces I had so many times I only have about a gallon of mixed paint left, and I have the jams, trunk lip, rockers, fenders and quarters to go. If I run into any problem, I will have to go get paint and redo the whole damn thing. I can not get anymore of what I already have. I don't have access to the materials, or the formulas. So what I have has to make it through. :banghead:
After some thought, I have decided to go buy more paint. It won't be the same as what I have, but close. I feel that one gallon left just isn't going to cut it, cause I still have to spray the trunk and engine compartment with the rest of the car. I don't want to spend that time and then end up short, then it was all wasted. Then I'll have to go back and sand whatever I have sprayed.... I don't want to take that chance.
Another day, another update. Bought two gallons of paint, very close to what I have, You have to hold it at the right angle to see the resemblance. Not unusual for this type of paint. Today, the 17th of June, I removed the driver side door and fender. The fender has this sealer holding the light bucket to it. So I removed the bucket with it. Pretty warm out there today, maybe when the sun goes down I'll go back and put some primer on the part where I took the original paint off the fender. But I would like to come up with some shadetree fender/door stand to use. I really don't want to go and buy one. Well, here are a couple of pics of where I am right now. I feel more motivated to get this done now. About time....
No pictures today, sorry. I am learning the body work angle on the fly here. I thought the front fender was good to go for paint. It turns out the new stuff I have is thin, so it shows the sand marks too well. So I have been sanding, and sanding. I am learning that I needed to have more surfacer on the part before I spray the top coat, going thru to bare metal in places which means more primer, more top coat, more sanding. But I do see progress. The good thing is I know what NOT to do when I get to the door. I hope any way. LOL. I need to do the blocking a whole lot better.
Ok, I have been working on the car. But I have been applying the primer surfacer, then a light gray primer as a guidecoat. I've done that 3 times, and have to do it at least one more time. Looking pretty good if I say so myself. Oh, working on the body at the moment. Giving the driver side door and fender a rest. I just may go back and reprimer the two instead. That way I'll make more progress instead of thinking I have it. And won't waste my subtopcoat. I'm learning on the fly here, so I have to redo an awful lot. Will I do this again...NO!!! But it will definitely be easier next time. Oh, everything is an epoxy, except for the subtopcoat. I need a urethane sealer over the epoxy, and that is what it is. I could of used a urethane primer to seal, but as long as it's a urethane I should be ok.
Added pictures. Primer surfacer is black, guide coat is gray primer. I figure at least one more coat of surfacer will do the trick. I didn't yet sand the bottom half of that side yet. Had other things to do today, will sand and spray tomorrow.
Added pictures. Primer surfacer is black, guide coat is gray primer. I figure at least one more coat of surfacer will do the trick. I didn't yet sand the bottom half of that side yet. Had other things to do today, will sand and spray tomorrow.
After more sanding, then surfacer, then more sanding, more surfacer.....you get the idea. I felt it was good enough to go. I am using a base blue urethane paint as my urethane sealer over the surfacer. Killing two birds with one stone here. To back track some, I've been meaning to pick up a gun holder...... You know whats coming next don't ya? LOL. Yep, that darn thing tipped over after I had filled it with a batch I just mixed up..... RATS!!! I had enough blue to complete my base spraying, provided I didn't waste any of it, like spilling it! I had enough left to spray what I needed to today. I do have some more blue, just a different shade of blue. What I have is a bit more red to it, but my topcoat metallic hides rather well so it should be ok. I'll find out. Now next goal is to let this cure up good and then wet sand it to about 800 or higher before the final topcoat. There is still some evidence of the hail damage from before on the rear deck, not, pictures won't show it, I'll probably go and fill that in with the Icing filler I have. It looked good after the blocking, but apparently I missed it. Still have time to fix! Few pics of before and after. On to the pictures.
72Dodge
Well-Known Member
Lookin' good, soon it will be all pretty again! I can't wait to see this thing driving around town!
Thanks. I didn't notice it at the time, but I had overspray on my arms, and on my ankles. Like a knucklehead I didn't wear the tyvek suit.... I had to go back out and wash my arms and legs with a rag dipped in acetone. Acetone is what is used for nail polish remover. Ruined a nice pair of shorts and a t shirt also... LOL
Outside looking to see how well it's cured, when I looked down the drivers side I can tell where I had removed the trim from the side. What I see are up and down waves from where I had welded then ground down the welds. I must of gotten a little to heavy with the grinding. Even though I didn't think I was at the time. And I thought I had taken care of that mess when blocking. Apparently I didn't do as well. So, what to do? I really wanted to leave that trim off. If it had only been a '71, then I could of just peeled the trim off and no welding needed. But thank goodness I kept the trim without bending the daylights out of it when removing. That is what I will probably end up doing, putting that trim back on. Unless I can find a way to fix it. Any ideas? Thanks.
Well my 71 had the trim with holes as well. And I done the same thing you did. I thought the welding, grinding body filler and all the blocking would take care of it and smooth it out. But I noticed after paint you can still see the waves. My fix? Wait till next time I paint it and use a glide coat...
busy putzing around with other stuff. Finally got the 1/4 extensions topcoated, finishing the clearcoat as I type. First coat clear down, waiting for it to flash off before the next coat goes on. Only doing extensions to see if my clear, that I got for free, is ok with what else I'm using. Time will tell. If ok, I'll post pics. Cured up fairly well, came out clean, I am surprised at how clean the clear came out, but I am not complaining. One coat, will be ok for now, I just wanted to get clear on it after the base was sprayed yesterday. I can see some sand marks, but these should be hidden by the bumper. Over all acceptable, ain't perfect, but not so bad I want to redo. I'm happy with it. Not sure if you can see the sparkle, in garage with quartz light on it. Oh well, it is what it is.
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
So, how did everything come out?
Something comes up, and I have to let the car sit. At least now I have paint I can throw on it, and my clear is compatible. No problems with it so far on the extension pieces. Now I need for it to warm up, even at 30*, it's just too cold to spray. I have a torpedo heater that will warm the garage up easily enough, but you have to hold it there for the substrate, (the car) to warm up also.
I was asked about the 6 pak set-up for the 340 I have. Here is a pik of it. Not the best I know, but I have the trunk and fender on top of the engine right now, and I am not going to putz around in this cold. The picture shows it.
I was asked about the 6 pak set-up for the 340 I have. Here is a pik of it. Not the best I know, but I have the trunk and fender on top of the engine right now, and I am not going to putz around in this cold. The picture shows it.
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
oooohhhh... 6 pak 
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Just read this whole thread through....you have my sympathies! (been there, done that!) I have the perfectionist's disease as well, so understand what you're going through. And that six-pak...hubba hubba! Nice piece.
Subscribed, so I can watch the progress!
Subscribed, so I can watch the progress!
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