My requirements... what to build?

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Learning lots.
I do need to do some research on what I want to do with the rear end. The 7 1/4 rear right now isnt going to make it so that is for sure coming out. I would like to get a 8 3/4 rear for an A body but they are a tad pricy.
My thought was to do it all at once while the car is down down and the motor is out.
I am sure my mind will change several times over the course of this.

As previously mentioned this year is disc break conversion and some front end work. I believe my mind is already made up on that LOL.

Thanks for your help. Saving the link to this thread so I can revisit it when decision time comes.

No the fun begins to start to talk and research shops in Michigan I can talk to.
Just trying to pass along my experience cuz I fell for the legend of the 8 and 3/4 myself and slowly puzzled together one for about $1,200.. now mind you I was putting loads on it that your car probably will never see but 20 passes at the drag strip later when it blew up LOL I ended up building a Dana 60 for the same $1,200.. it's still in there and doing fine.. most will just say Dana and Done... More-2...
 
if i were to build a 318 i'd use the 390 stroker kit here https://www.hughesengines.com/Index...ciBLaXRz&level2=MzE4IHRvIDM5MA==&partid=25284

with the monar crank and h beam rods , I know expensive i just don't like Scat something about the name bothers me . besides I'm using a molnar crank and H beam rods really nice well made parts . A bit more $$ , what the hell performance ain't cheap . if price was the determining factor I'd drive a Chev or Ford
Is Hughes engines just reselling Parts more expensive with their name on them?
Just as a comparison to what you're saying I have a scat cast crank and scat I beam rods and I have tortured my motor for 5 plus years.. I basically broke it in for 20 minutes and put it on the trailer and drag raced with it and breaking mentioned 8 and 3/4 rear ends...
I think this guy's just looking for a street bruiser...
 
"GRASSHOPPER!". . Remember start at the back and build forward start looking for a Dana 60 out of a truck or something like that. Looking for a machine shop that will cut down the rear end and put normal car ends on it so you can put your brakes and stuff on it. Also picking out your gears and your differential. If you get all that put in what's the new Driveline to your current setup it may change things as well with some nice gearing. Then after you enjoy that new gearing for a minute you can go ahead and pull the motor and transmission. While the motor is at the machine shop you can rebuild the transmission yourself which is easier than falling out of bed... $125 for a rebuild kit and $75 or less for a transgo shift kit.. I've installed the trans go two a couple of times and they make the transmission to shift perfect. Not harsh and banging just quick and snappy like you want it... no I'm running out of $0.02 and going to have to charge you $0.25 LOL...
what transgo shift kit do you order? have a link?
 
what transgo shift kit do you order? have a link?
I think I just looked it up on Summit it's the stage 2.. the stage 2 still has shift command in it if you want that feature but it gives the perfect shift in my opinion. I put it in that transmission that I built for that pink 318 and I put it in my son's Power Wagon as well..
actually I put the stage 3 in the one with the pink 318 which gives the option for a full manual shift which I did and liked with a quicksilver shifter.. but that's because I'm a 4-speed guy and I like shifting each gear. If you don't like doing that I would stay away from the stage 3...
which is basically the same as the stage 2 but again full manual shift in stage 3..
 
Is Hughes engines just reselling Parts more expensive with their name on them?
Just as a comparison to what you're saying I have a scat cast crank and scat I beam rods and I have tortured my motor for 5 plus years.. I basically broke it in for 20 minutes and put it on the trailer and drag raced with it and breaking mentioned 8 and 3/4 rear ends...
I think this guy's just looking for a street bruiser...
no idea and don't care , gave MY opinion nothing more . I beat the crap out of my car and it has yet to break . like I said just don't like scat . simple as that . nothing more I'm no expert , just a hobby .
 
I think I just looked it up on Summit it's the stage 2.. the stage 2 still has shift command in it if you want that feature but it gives the perfect shift in my opinion. I put it in that transmission that I built for that pink 318 and I put it in my son's Power Wagon as well..
actually I put the stage 3 in the one with the pink 318 which gives the option for a full manual shift which I did and liked with a quicksilver shifter.. but that's because I'm a 4-speed guy and I like shifting each gear. If you don't like doing that I would stay away from the stage 3...
which is basically the same as the stage 2 but again full manual shift in stage 3..
i'll probably order one and put it in the 360 Duster. That 904 is stock, I'm going to tare it up if I don't do something...lol.
 
no idea and don't care , gave MY opinion nothing more . I beat the crap out of my car and it has yet to break . like I said just don't like scat . simple as that . nothing more I'm no expert , just a hobby .
I can't agree more this is totally my hobby.. ironically I like the name Scat as in getting the hell out of there LOL..
I did look up Hughes engines 318 stroker kits and the first one which is the cheapest one for $1,800 has a scat crank mixed with eagle rods and some other kind of Pistons. Then it jumps up to $2,600 and they didn't mention the brands.. although I do have Hughes engines roller rockers I am quite aware they sell a lot of hype... Something us hobbyists need to stay away from...
 
Just trying to pass along my experience cuz I fell for the legend of the 8 and 3/4 myself and slowly puzzled together one for about $1,200.. now mind you I was putting loads on it that your car probably will never see but 20 passes at the drag strip later when it blew up LOL I ended up building a Dana 60 for the same $1,200.. it's still in there and doing fine.. most will just say Dana and Done... More-2...


my tab keeps going up LOL

not going to be a race car by any means but I will definitely keep it in mind. A lot will come down to finding a shop that does goes work and what we come up with.
 
Just trying to pass along my experience cuz I fell for the legend of the 8 and 3/4 myself and slowly puzzled together one for about $1,200.. now mind you I was putting loads on it that your car probably will never see but 20 passes at the drag strip later when it blew up LOL I ended up building a Dana 60 for the same $1,200.. it's still in there and doing fine.. most will just say Dana and Done... More-2...
8 3/4 Are good up to a point when over 400 hp and tq with sticky tires they start to break a Dana will take a beating no matter what you throw at it I'melted 2 8 3/4 and really should get a Dana
 
DO NOT put a check ball in the "R" hole...
LOL...
My son and I were putting his shift kit in at his work on one of the lifts (he's a mechanic) on this day off. We're goin through the instructions and I asked him how do you interpret this? He says it looks like they want you to put a check ball there.. I says okay damn the torpedoes... We put it all together and it works great except there was no reverse LOL.. I called the Transco hotline and they said did you put a check ball in the "R" hole?... Yup... They said take it out... So back down the valve body and the flood of transmission fluid LOL.. check ball out of "R" hole reverse works perfect LOL...
 
my tab keeps going up LOL

not going to be a race car by any means but I will definitely keep it in mind. A lot will come down to finding a shop that does goes work and what we come up with.
if you're not doing the work yourself a good shop is needed , the best parts put together by an incompetent shop will not last . seen plenty of good parts go to waste because shop did not have a clue or give a dam
 
8 3/4 Are good up to a point when over 400 hp and tq with sticky tires they start to break a Dana will take a beating no matter what you throw at it I'melted 2 8 3/4 and really should get a Dana
Snapped the caps off..
20151128_141857.jpg

8 3/4 vs. D-60...
20160116_111102.jpg

I did have to farm out having two ends put on and the truck ends cut off and the purtches put on but he was nice and let me be a small part of the process...
20160123_115207.jpg
20160123_111320.jpg
 
my tab keeps going up LOL

not going to be a race car by any means but I will definitely keep it in mind. A lot will come down to finding a shop that does goes work and what we come up with.


LOL. Don’t buy that crap jPar is trying to sell you about saving you money. He’s throwing change ups at you, setting you up for the high hard one (baseball analogy right there).

Then, once he has the hook set and he is ready to reel you into the boat (fishing analogy...damn I’m on fire today) he will convince you that you need a tunnel ram, 2 Demon carbs (he is the Demon guru and has purchased large sums of stock in said company) and WTH...why not get some aluminum heads to top it all off.

Yep, jpar is setting you up. He never saves anyone any money.















LOL. Not only are my analogies awesome today, but my sarcasm is smoking hot!!!!!
 
LOL. Don’t buy that crap jPar is trying to sell you about saving you money. He’s throwing change ups at you, setting you up for the high hard one (baseball analogy right there).

Then, once he has the hook set and he is ready to reel you into the boat (fishing analogy...damn I’m on fire today) he will convince you that you need a tunnel ram, 2 Demon carbs (he is the Demon guru and has purchased large sums of stock in said company) and WTH...why not get some aluminum heads to top it all off.

Yep, jpar is setting you up. He never saves anyone any money.















LOL. Not only are my analogies awesome today, but my sarcasm is smoking hot!!!!!
3a7505e7566582c41a934e97ff880e61.jpg

I do have a Street Demon baseball cap and a Street Demon t-shirt but that's about all the stock I have them besides the two carbs LOL..
 
Do you have a stoker kit you would recommend?
Also will the older 1972 block hold up to it?
Several great recommendations I know I will have a hard time making up my mind
1972 is great block to start with.
Might be cast in 71 even.. for 72.
318 blocks cast after '69 are my choice.
 
So that narrows it down to 318 or 360. Not really interested in the 340's at this time.
What I am looking for is a nice driver with a little extra horses to boot. I would like to have some fun when I am on the street in town and still be able to take the car at 65mph with out having screaming RPMs. Most of my driving will be 0-65 maybe a few trips on the highway but not many. The car needs to run on pump gas, (does not need to be E85) and needs to be able to let the tires loose a little bit when I would like. Also the car needs to be reliable. The plan right now to do this rebuild once, and drive it for a decent many a years to follow. I do not put many miles on the Scamp per year. A few shows, a lot of ice cream runs, and a few trips to town. Thinking 300ish HP (maybe a tad more) to the wheel. The more the better but for my application I really do not see needing 400HP

You asked for opinions so here it comes.
Per your requirements,
With a 318, I think you will need;
>no more than 3.23s and tall tires, for 65=~2600.
>an A999 with a wide ratios and a loc-up.The ratios are 2.74-1.54-1.00. With 3.23s this gets you an 8.85 starter gear which is same as 3.61s with the A904.
> now you have to build an engine to pull that 8.85 starter gear, and to be able to pull it for as high up in the Rpm band as possible. This is a bit of a problem, so
lets switch to a 360/5.9
I think you will need;
>3.23s, and an A998 with the standard 2.45-1.45-1.00 ratios and a loc-up, for a starter gear of 7.91
Your 360 can pull this 7.91 to 60mph=6200 in first gear, @5% slip; problem solved. Cruising; 65 is still 2600
>So now you build your 360/5.9 to do that.
First hurdle. rpm at 32 mph is 1285 in Drive and cruising, but at WOT, it is 1960 in second,3320 in First. So, when you are just cruising along in Drive, nobody can hear you, nobody even notices you. But when you floor it, and the trans kicks down into first, you want thunder and lightning, a roaring engine, and screaming tires. Well maybe you don't, but a hi-compression 360, has no problem doing it.
Second hurdle; 3320@32 mph, means the street stall is all used up, so you get not much help in the TC as regards Torque-Multiplication, so the engine is gonna have to do it on it's own.
Third hurdle: powerband. You need TORQUE at 3320. At this time you do not care about power yet. You want to power away from 3320 so the engine better have the goods.
Note1;
The hi-compression 360 can burn the tires from a standing start to the top of first gear, with almost any rear-gear, so we don't really need to spend a lotta concern about first gear.
And since 3.23s will get you 60@6200,we don't even care about second gear very much. This is what makes 3.23s so likeable.
Power
Keeping your introduction story in mind, IMO, you need to build torque down low, and power at 6000 be-darned. So lets pick a cam. I chose a power peak of 5000/48mph. Good heads will stretch that out to say 5500, and good springs will carry the revs to the required 6200@60 mph, when needed.
The 5000 power peak will put the Torque peak at about 3500, which will dovetail nicely with the 3320@32 mph.
Ok this is where it gets tricky.
You can take the easy road and install a hydraulic flat tappet. You set it and forget, and it runs forever. And in your application it would be fine.
But; lol, because of your story, I'd like to see you run a solid lifter flat tappet. It has several advantages, and in your case almost no disadvantage.
Solid lifters need periodic lash adjustments. But in your case, with the limited mileage you anticipate every year, this might only be every second or third year. The other thing about solids is that they tend to be a lil on the noisy side. But with modern tight-lash designs, I have heard, that it is a lot less noisy than it was in the past.
Now the advantages; With a solid, you can run the next bigger .050 cam, for similar advertised specs, so if you are compression limited, this is a big deal. But for you, flip that statement around; you can run the next smaller cam, have the same .050 specs, but it will run less advertised durations. This can be exploited in the EFFECTIVE compression ratio.
So let's talk about cylinder pressure. The more you got, the more efficient your engine will be ,right up to the point detonation sets in.Also the more cylinder pressure you have, the more power it will make, until detonation sets in. So the take-away is to build as much cylinder pressure as you can, consistent with staying out of detonation.
Ok so how do we marry these fine points?
Well, it just so happens, and this is why I would choose the 360, that it falls together pretty cheaply at ~10.7 scr. Just stick some tall flat-top pistons in there and some small-chamber heads and yur in business.
THIS IS NOT POSSIBLE WITH A 318; it's gonna cost you more money to make it happen, and you will not even come close to matching the 360 torque.
Do you need 360 torque?
Mostly no because mostly the 360 will piss it away in your body-style, spinning all the way to 60 mph. But 360 torque has other advantages; like lighting up the tires at 32 mph. Like powering thru the sound barrier. OK not that, but the 360 will fatten up your midrange. And KD at 55 mph to pass Grampa will get you ~ 3400@55mph; just about right at peak-torque. But the best part is you can run so much less starter gear, and that pays dividends at hiway cruising.
Consider a warmed up 9/1 318, with 3.55s, a 904, and a 2800 stall TC. That's a typical pkg for a streeter.
Consider that at 2800, she might be able to put out 240ftlbs at WOT. Ignoring powertrain losses,and at zero mph, this ends up at the axles as
240x1.8x2.45x3.55=3760 ftlbs, enough to break traction and spin. About two car lengths out, the TC may have dropped to 1.2 ratio,from 1.8, so maybe it sustains the spin at 2500ftlbs, maybe not.The spin would probably go away, except the rpm has risen and the torque is climbing. But the 318 will torque peak very soon and so the tire-spinning is about to quit.
How about the 360 that I'm targeting here?
Well, lets give it a TC of just 2600, so it ain't smoking the oil at 65mph. And lets say that at zero mph and 2600 she is able to put out 340 ftlbs, then
340x1.8x2.45x3.23=4840 ftlbs, enough to annihilate the tires. Again, about 60ft out, the TC ratio has fallen, but with the larger torque differential , I'll guess the ratio to be still 1.3, and lets say the rpm ,because she is spinning, you control to 3500@peak torque, say 420ftlbs, so
420x1.3x2.45x3.23=4320, and still annihilating the tires. You can carry the smokey-business to 34 mph still at 4320 ftlbs, still smoking the tires. That is what the well-engineered 360 just does.
So leaving the 318 in the smoke lets continue.
Here on FABO,Some fellows have reported running 200 psi and a tickle more, on pump gas, with aluminum headed 408 strokers. Many of us run 180 to 190psi.
I myself have run over 185 on 87E10.
IIRC, Yellow Rose says he can run the high numbers with iron, I forget his number. And Rumblefish also states it can be done. I can't speak to that, but I can to the aluminums. I think you cannot hardly build too much cylinder pressure for pump gas in a street-type engine. Therefore; I highly recommend them.You just slam the motor together and do with it whatever you want.
Ok so, lets bring this puppy home.
1) we can run any Scr we need to
2) we (or I) want a 5000rpm power peak
3) I want mega torque , ok not mega exactly, put plenty of torque at 32mph/3320rpm.
4) and I throw in fuel economy cuz as soon as this Covids scare is over, the cost of fuel is gonna sky-rocket, probably well beyond what it used to be.
So, in the KB catalog you will find several pistons that will work. I used the KB-107 flat tops and she came in at .012 below the decks, with a quick pass over the decks. I later re-machined the decks for a .005 pop up. I used the indestructible FelPro head gaskets at .039, and I installed some 63cc aluminum heads. With 5cc eyebrows and .040 overbore this maths out to 10.95 Scr.
I ran this with a Hughes HE2430AL (no longer available) flat-tappet hydraulic cam,Yes I took the easy road.
This is what the Wallace Calculator has to say;
Static compression ratio of 10.95:1.
Ica of 63/ 930 ft elevation.
Effective stroke is 2.81 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.81:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is ............. 180.25 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is .............. 156
And I burn 87E10 in that monster 100% of the time.

Lets look at this cam.
In at 108*, it has;
270* intake,
117 measly degrees of compression, but
110 * of power extraction, and
276* of exhaust.
The overlap is 53* of which 52 are Effective,and
the Ica is 63*
Big deal you say! ; the numbers don't mean anything to you . Fair enough let me help you.
>Lets start with this;
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is .............. 156
Read about VP here; V/P Index Calculation
IIRC the 440 Magnum of 1969 had about this for VP.
VP is a ratio that attempts to define the low rpm performance of an engine. All engines with a VP of the same number, are gonna perform similarly to eachother below about 3000/3500 rpm. With 3.23 gears 3500 is 34 mph with 27" tires. So if you build a 360 like this, you can expect the bottom end to feel at least as strong as a factory stock 1969 440 Magnum, up to 34 mph, also with 3.23s. Well that is about say 80/90% of your city cars driving, right?
POW!!
And we haven't even mentioned power. Now I will. If your 360 makes 400ftlbs at 3500 rpm, that would be
400x3500/5250=267 hp. Wait, that's 267 measly horsepower, and it's cooking like a 440 Magnum? Hyup.
> next; the 270 intake *.
On this cam the net is [email protected] and that points to a power peak right around 5000,perfect. IDK how much power it makes but it put my car into the 12s, shifting at 7000 .......... suffice it to say, it's lots enough for your application.
> next; the 117* compression.
This is normally thought of as a small amount of degrees. But a "normal engine" will not have 10.95 Scr. The goal of these degrees is to build enough squeeze to make decent power, so it doesn't matter if this number is small, if the pressure is large. And in the above example we see
Your dynamic cranking pressure is ............. 180.25 PSI.
So again, this number is lots enough for your application.
> Next; the 110* of extraction.
This is actually quite a lot for a performance engine. I chose this cam for this reason,because it offers the potential to get your car into the 20s mpg,point to point on the hiway. It has the potential for more, but that will be up to you to glean. In any case;this number is lots enough for your application.
> Next,the 276* exhaust duration.
With good heads,and headers, this is a good number for the 270* intake duration. Certainly, this number is lots enough for your application,lol.
> finally the 53* of overlap.
With a good working exhaust, this will put a little bulge in the power curve throughout the midrange, but it is not hard to tune the carb with just 53*.
I like this cam; it has just enough idle lope to know it ain't a stock 340. But if you install the 340 exhaust system (and I'm not recommending it); especially the factory tips, it will sound very much like a 340. As for exhaust, I ran full length 3" duals, right to the bumper, with just turn-downs. IMO, there is no such thing as too big, until you can't fit it under the car anymore. There is only one downside, well two,lol, the dual 3 system is stinking heavy, and the volume level at the back, from the curb, tends to be "loud". But that is very dependent on the mufflers and tips you use.
This combo will like a dual-plane intake, and a 750carb, but for you, I would recommend a 650DP, or a spreadbore, even down to a 500, which will be adequate to 5000rpm, or most of your driving situations. I just really really like the 750DP on mine.
Do you need this much cam?
No!
But it won't cost you anything to run it! Because at 10.95Scr or even 10.7 where it is likely to fall together with no deck machining, this build has adequate pressure to handle it. So;
I heard that you don't need 400hp, but if it falls in your lap with no downside, then ........ WTH, why not!
Well there are actually a couple of downsides;
1) Your wife will give you heck every time you return from the grocery store having been gone for hours and hours, and you completely forgot to bring milk; cuz you were having so much fun, that you lost track of the time. And
2) It burns a lotta gas. It takes gas to make the fun, and you like the fun, so bring cash.
3) after you have given all your friends a ride, none of them come back for seconds. Well maybe one.
4) before you take your wife out for a spin;install a throttle-stop,a rev-limiter, and DO NOT make any promises that you cannot keep.The couch is a very cold,lonely, and uncomfortable place.
So, to recap;
What I would do is

build a hi-compression aluminum headed 360 with a modest hi-torque cam, a small carb on a dualplane, headers, a free-flowing exhaust, a 904, 3.23s and just about any old TC, you happen to already have.
Be warned
If you install fat sticky tires, you will need at least an 8.75 rearend to put up with the 440-Magnum type low-rpm torque. I kid you not, this build broke a lot of stuff for me in the 4 short years I had it. When you have to build a driveshaft, make sure it has at least 7290 U-joints on both ends, and install a front driveshaft loop.
Do you need a 360?
Probably not; you said it's a cruiser, an ice-cream getter.
But it costs nearly same to build either combo; actually more to build the 318 to high compression; exclusive of the aluminum heads.
You can get away with less money on the 318, by using the factory rocker gear, too. But I get the sense that a grand or two is not gonna affect your budget.
Plus; if you talk to Yellow Rose or Rumble, they might tell you how to marry hi-pressure and iron heads, maybe saving you some coin there; nothing wrong with iron on your combo.

But I just gotta say one more thing;
the 340 was always a performance engine, but it doesn't have to be that way. I mean guys try get them to 500hp all the time, and some even succeed. But that is not the type of engine you want;you would want the 340 to be de-tuned for torque.
IMO, and for your application
the 318 does not have the capacity to make both low-rpm grunt and hi-rpm power, and stuck with 3.23s, I am fairly certain that you will be disappointed.
The 360 will have a preponderance of low-speed torque, a powerful midrange (with that 2430cam), and a reasonably good top end, all with 3.23s, and no disappointment.
The 340, could fly right up the middle, giving up some of that 360 copious torque, and still nearly match the 360 the rest of the time. You just can't slam it together like you do a 360. So if you have one........ I sure would think it over.
And I hate to say it but this is how it goes; with your hood up, every knuckle-dragger at the carshow will blast your 360, telling you that you shouldda built a 340. They will say "everybody knows the 360s were junk". I finally painted my 360 Orange, and when asked, I called it a stroked 340, after all it was 4.04x3.58. That was the end of it. Very few people noticed the Orange painted Eddies.
Happy Hotrodding.
 
Motor wise and looking in the 400hp arena, Blueprint. Warranty, good rep on the board, and no drama.... It ain't the cheapest but not over the top either. It's who would get my business for a LA based motor...

Side note their BBC632 is a killer piece for the price point...

JW
 
what aj said
rumble menioned rebuilding 904 with hd parts
a998-a999
that's where you get the hd parts, planateries, more clutches, etc
and only way to get dbl wrap band
also lockup works great
I replaced a904 with a a999 cus daughter kept destroying reverse in her Pacer Wagon
SCAT great people Tom's been around almost as long as I have
I'd start with a take out magnum
if LA then a late roller block
you want the TF-2 transgo kit- ...in the Pacer, and the...and the...I put in lots of them
 
You asked for opinions so here it comes.
Per your requirements,
With a 318, I think you will need;
>no more than 3.23s and tall tires, for 65=~2600.
>an A999 with a wide ratios and a loc-up.The ratios are 2.74-1.54-1.00. With 3.23s this gets you an 8.85 starter gear which is same as 3.61s with the A904.
> now you have to build an engine to pull that 8.85 starter gear, and to be able to pull it for as high up in the Rpm band as possible. This is a bit of a problem, so
lets switch to a 360/5.9
I think you will need;
>3.23s, and an A998 with the standard 2.45-1.45-1.00 ratios and a loc-up, for a starter gear of 7.91
Your 360 can pull this 7.91 to 60mph=6200 in first gear, @5% slip; problem solved. Cruising; 65 is still 2600
>So now you build your 360/5.9 to do that.
First hurdle. rpm at 32 mph is 1285 in Drive and cruising, but at WOT, it is 1960 in second,3320 in First. So, when you are just cruising along in Drive, nobody can hear you, nobody even notices you. But when you floor it, and the trans kicks down into first, you want thunder and lightning, a roaring engine, and screaming tires. Well maybe you don't, but a hi-compression 360, has no problem doing it.
Second hurdle; 3320@32 mph, means the street stall is all used up, so you get not much help in the TC as regards Torque-Multiplication, so the engine is gonna have to do it on it's own.
Third hurdle: powerband. You need TORQUE at 3320. At this time you do not care about power yet. You want to power away from 3320 so the engine better have the goods.
Note1;
The hi-compression 360 can burn the tires from a standing start to the top of first gear, with almost any rear-gear, so we don't really need to spend a lotta concern about first gear.
And since 3.23s will get you 60@6200,we don't even care about second gear very much. This is what makes 3.23s so likeable.
Power
Keeping your introduction story in mind, IMO, you need to build torque down low, and power at 6000 be-darned. So lets pick a cam. I chose a power peak of 5000/48mph. Good heads will stretch that out to say 5500, and good springs will carry the revs to the required 6200@60 mph, when needed.
The 5000 power peak will put the Torque peak at about 3500, which will dovetail nicely with the 3320@32 mph.
Ok this is where it gets tricky.
You can take the easy road and install a hydraulic flat tappet. You set it and forget, and it runs forever. And in your application it would be fine.
But; lol, because of your story, I'd like to see you run a solid lifter flat tappet. It has several advantages, and in your case almost no disadvantage.
Solid lifters need periodic lash adjustments. But in your case, with the limited mileage you anticipate every year, this might only be every second or third year. The other thing about solids is that they tend to be a lil on the noisy side. But with modern tight-lash designs, I have heard, that it is a lot less noisy than it was in the past.
Now the advantages; With a solid, you can run the next bigger .050 cam, for similar advertised specs, so if you are compression limited, this is a big deal. But for you, flip that statement around; you can run the next smaller cam, have the same .050 specs, but it will run less advertised durations. This can be exploited in the EFFECTIVE compression ratio.
So let's talk about cylinder pressure. The more you got, the more efficient your engine will be ,right up to the point detonation sets in.Also the more cylinder pressure you have, the more power it will make, until detonation sets in. So the take-away is to build as much cylinder pressure as you can, consistent with staying out of detonation.
Ok so how do we marry these fine points?
Well, it just so happens, and this is why I would choose the 360, that it falls together pretty cheaply at ~10.7 scr. Just stick some tall flat-top pistons in there and some small-chamber heads and yur in business.
THIS IS NOT POSSIBLE WITH A 318; it's gonna cost you more money to make it happen, and you will not even come close to matching the 360 torque.
Do you need 360 torque?
Mostly no because mostly the 360 will piss it away in your body-style, spinning all the way to 60 mph. But 360 torque has other advantages; like lighting up the tires at 32 mph. Like powering thru the sound barrier. OK not that, but the 360 will fatten up your midrange. And KD at 55 mph to pass Grampa will get you ~ 3400@55mph; just about right at peak-torque. But the best part is you can run so much less starter gear, and that pays dividends at hiway cruising.
Consider a warmed up 9/1 318, with 3.55s, a 904, and a 2800 stall TC. That's a typical pkg for a streeter.
Consider that at 2800, she might be able to put out 240ftlbs at WOT. Ignoring powertrain losses,and at zero mph, this ends up at the axles as
240x1.8x2.45x3.55=3760 ftlbs, enough to break traction and spin. About two car lengths out, the TC may have dropped to 1.2 ratio,from 1.8, so maybe it sustains the spin at 2500ftlbs, maybe not.The spin would probably go away, except the rpm has risen and the torque is climbing. But the 318 will torque peak very soon and so the tire-spinning is about to quit.
How about the 360 that I'm targeting here?
Well, lets give it a TC of just 2600, so it ain't smoking the oil at 65mph. And lets say that at zero mph and 2600 she is able to put out 340 ftlbs, then
340x1.8x2.45x3.23=4840 ftlbs, enough to annihilate the tires. Again, about 60ft out, the TC ratio has fallen, but with the larger torque differential , I'll guess the ratio to be still 1.3, and lets say the rpm ,because she is spinning, you control to 3500@peak torque, say 420ftlbs, so
420x1.3x2.45x3.23=4320, and still annihilating the tires. You can carry the smokey-business to 34 mph still at 4320 ftlbs, still smoking the tires. That is what the well-engineered 360 just does.
So leaving the 318 in the smoke lets continue.
Here on FABO,Some fellows have reported running 200 psi and a tickle more, on pump gas, with aluminum headed 408 strokers. Many of us run 180 to 190psi.
I myself have run over 185 on 87E10.
IIRC, Yellow Rose says he can run the high numbers with iron, I forget his number. And Rumblefish also states it can be done. I can't speak to that, but I can to the aluminums. I think you cannot hardly build too much cylinder pressure for pump gas in a street-type engine. Therefore; I highly recommend them.You just slam the motor together and do with it whatever you want.
Ok so, lets bring this puppy home.
1) we can run any Scr we need to
2) we (or I) want a 5000rpm power peak
3) I want mega torque , ok not mega exactly, put plenty of torque at 32mph/3320rpm.
4) and I throw in fuel economy cuz as soon as this Covids scare is over, the cost of fuel is gonna sky-rocket, probably well beyond what it used to be.
So, in the KB catalog you will find several pistons that will work. I used the KB-107 flat tops and she came in at .012 below the decks, with a quick pass over the decks. I later re-machined the decks for a .005 pop up. I used the indestructible FelPro head gaskets at .039, and I installed some 63cc aluminum heads. With 5cc eyebrows and .040 overbore this maths out to 10.95 Scr.
I ran this with a Hughes HE2430AL (no longer available) flat-tappet hydraulic cam,Yes I took the easy road.
This is what the Wallace Calculator has to say;
Static compression ratio of 10.95:1.
Ica of 63/ 930 ft elevation.
Effective stroke is 2.81 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 8.81:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is ............. 180.25 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is .............. 156
And I burn 87E10 in that monster 100% of the time.

Lets look at this cam.
In at 108*, it has;
270* intake,
117 measly degrees of compression, but
110 * of power extraction, and
276* of exhaust.
The overlap is 53* of which 52 are Effective,and
the Ica is 63*
Big deal you say! ; the numbers don't mean anything to you . Fair enough let me help you.
>Lets start with this;
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is .............. 156
Read about VP here; V/P Index Calculation
IIRC the 440 Magnum of 1969 had about this for VP.
VP is a ratio that attempts to define the low rpm performance of an engine. All engines with a VP of the same number, are gonna perform similarly to eachother below about 3000/3500 rpm. With 3.23 gears 3500 is 34 mph with 27" tires. So if you build a 360 like this, you can expect the bottom end to feel at least as strong as a factory stock 1969 440 Magnum, up to 34 mph, also with 3.23s. Well that is about say 80/90% of your city cars driving, right?
POW!!
And we haven't even mentioned power. Now I will. If your 360 makes 400ftlbs at 3500 rpm, that would be
400x3500/5250=267 hp. Wait, that's 267 measly horsepower, and it's cooking like a 440 Magnum? Hyup.
> next; the 270 intake *.
On this cam the net is [email protected] and that points to a power peak right around 5000,perfect. IDK how much power it makes but it put my car into the 12s, shifting at 7000 .......... suffice it to say, it's lots enough for your application.
> next; the 117* compression.
This is normally thought of as a small amount of degrees. But a "normal engine" will not have 10.95 Scr. The goal of these degrees is to build enough squeeze to make decent power, so it doesn't matter if this number is small, if the pressure is large. And in the above example we see
Your dynamic cranking pressure is ............. 180.25 PSI.
So again, this number is lots enough for your application.
> Next; the 110* of extraction.
This is actually quite a lot for a performance engine. I chose this cam for this reason,because it offers the potential to get your car into the 20s mpg,point to point on the hiway. It has the potential for more, but that will be up to you to glean. In any case;this number is lots enough for your application.
> Next,the 276* exhaust duration.
With good heads,and headers, this is a good number for the 270* intake duration. Certainly, this number is lots enough for your application,lol.
> finally the 53* of overlap.
With a good working exhaust, this will put a little bulge in the power curve throughout the midrange, but it is not hard to tune the carb with just 53*.
I like this cam; it has just enough idle lope to know it ain't a stock 340. But if you install the 340 exhaust system (and I'm not recommending it); especially the factory tips, it will sound very much like a 340. As for exhaust, I ran full length 3" duals, right to the bumper, with just turn-downs. IMO, there is no such thing as too big, until you can't fit it under the car anymore. There is only one downside, well two,lol, the dual 3 system is stinking heavy, and the volume level at the back, from the curb, tends to be "loud". But that is very dependent on the mufflers and tips you use.
This combo will like a dual-plane intake, and a 750carb, but for you, I would recommend a 650DP, or a spreadbore, even down to a 500, which will be adequate to 5000rpm, or most of your driving situations. I just really really like the 750DP on mine.
Do you need this much cam?
No!
But it won't cost you anything to run it! Because at 10.95Scr or even 10.7 where it is likely to fall together with no deck machining, this build has adequate pressure to handle it. So;
I heard that you don't need 400hp, but if it falls in your lap with no downside, then ........ WTH, why not!
Well there are actually a couple of downsides;
1) Your wife will give you heck every time you return from the grocery store having been gone for hours and hours, and you completely forgot to bring milk; cuz you were having so much fun, that you lost track of the time. And
2) It burns a lotta gas. It takes gas to make the fun, and you like the fun, so bring cash.
3) after you have given all your friends a ride, none of them come back for seconds. Well maybe one.
4) before you take your wife out for a spin;install a throttle-stop,a rev-limiter, and DO NOT make any promises that you cannot keep.The couch is a very cold,lonely, and uncomfortable place.
So, to recap;
What I would do is

build a hi-compression aluminum headed 360 with a modest hi-torque cam, a small carb on a dualplane, headers, a free-flowing exhaust, a 904, 3.23s and just about any old TC, you happen to already have.
Be warned
If you install fat sticky tires, you will need at least an 8.75 rearend to put up with the 440-Magnum type low-rpm torque. I kid you not, this build broke a lot of stuff for me in the 4 short years I had it. When you have to build a driveshaft, make sure it has at least 7290 U-joints on both ends, and install a front driveshaft loop.
Do you need a 360?
Probably not; you said it's a cruiser, an ice-cream getter.
But it costs nearly same to build either combo; actually more to build the 318 to high compression; exclusive of the aluminum heads.
You can get away with less money on the 318, by using the factory rocker gear, too. But I get the sense that a grand or two is not gonna affect your budget.
Plus; if you talk to Yellow Rose or Rumble, they might tell you how to marry hi-pressure and iron heads, maybe saving you some coin there; nothing wrong with iron on your combo.

But I just gotta say one more thing;
the 340 was always a performance engine, but it doesn't have to be that way. I mean guys try get them to 500hp all the time, and some even succeed. But that is not the type of engine you want;you would want the 340 to be de-tuned for torque.
IMO, and for your application
the 318 does not have the capacity to make both low-rpm grunt and hi-rpm power, and stuck with 3.23s, I am fairly certain that you will be disappointed.
The 360 will have a preponderance of low-speed torque, a powerful midrange (with that 2430cam), and a reasonably good top end, all with 3.23s, and no disappointment.
The 340, could fly right up the middle, giving up some of that 360 copious torque, and still nearly match the 360 the rest of the time. You just can't slam it together like you do a 360. So if you have one........ I sure would think it over.
And I hate to say it but this is how it goes; with your hood up, every knuckle-dragger at the carshow will blast your 360, telling you that you shouldda built a 340. They will say "everybody knows the 360s were junk". I finally painted my 360 Orange, and when asked, I called it a stroked 340, after all it was 4.04x3.58. That was the end of it. Very few people noticed the Orange painted Eddies.
Happy Hotrodding.

Wow
I think i have read this 3 or 4 times. It is a lot to digest especially for me being a novice. I need to read it several more time.
Few questions
At the beginning you mentioned the 360 paired with the A998. Then at the end in the recap you mentioned using the 904. So whats the real thoughts?

My rear end thoughts were along the same lines as you. I know I am going to get a 8 3/4 rear end. The case and gears I am up in the air on. I currently have a lead on a nice looking and I believe recently rebuilt rear end 8 3/4 from an A body. Waiting to hear back if it has rebuild papers with it and additional specs. However it has the 741 case and 2.94 open gears. Looking at what gears i can purchase for this it looks like a lot of what is out there is only 3.55 for this case. Versus looking for the 489 case and finding a 3.23. I also know I eventually would like to get a limited slip rear end.
I do not plan on installing fat sticky tires. Not building a race car by any means. Fun street car, for a few local shows, maybe a few 2-3 hour trips away for a show, and a lot of seat time on the back roads.

So if I were going to look for a 360 where do i start?
5.9 magnum?
Any 360 block?
It is going to get tore apart and rebuilt so does it matter much?

I appreciate the detail that is for sure. The build you laid out sounds like a lot of fun.
I think is a tad scary. You mentioned you broke a lot of things. I am not looking to break a whole hell of a lot. LOL Fun, Reliable, Durable. I know breaking things comes with this hobby here and there that is for sure.

So would you say your plan you laid out is a good street machine and crusher all in one while still getting reasonable milage and RPMS at 65 mph?

last question how often can i pick your brain when i go for the build and how much is it going to cost!!! LOL thanks for the detailed response.
 
WE are all here to help, call anytime.
The A998/2.74 low, was for the 318, to get a reasonable 3.61 type of take off, and still cruise at 65=2600

But you don't need the 2.74 low gear for the 360.
HOWEVER if you have found a 2.94 rear for a good price, that is a good thing.
You see; it's all about the starter-gear. With the A904, the low gear is 2.45. And with 3.23s, that makes a starter of
2.45x3.23=7.91. And with a 7.91 starter, 60mph is 6200rpm in first gear. That required the 223/230 cam. Well it actually wanted the next bigger cam, but your application doesn't want the next bigger cam.
But with 2.94s and the 2.45 low gear, the starter gear is
2.45x2.94=7.20, and that gets you 60=5600, a much better fit for that 223/230 cam. And the bonus is 65=2370@ zero slip. The only difference in this combo, is to up the stall to about 2600 rpm,or even 2800, to get off the line a lil quicker. The 2600 will apply a lil more engine torque, say 10%, to replace the 10% lost by the 3.23s. I like it. For this combo I also like an A998/2.45low loc-up trans. This will let you run a higher than 2400 stall, and not heat up the trans oil so much, during cruise.

Do not get hung up about which third member you can find; ALL of them will be fine on the street. But make sure you put it in with a SureGrip on Day-1; you can't be peg-legging it, and with this 360, it will be hard not to spin the tires. Spend the money today. Skip out on the MSD ignition system that this combo does not need.

360 versus 5.9, on a full rebuild does not matter, except the 5.9 is a roller cam engine. Some guys like the peace of mind of having a roller cam.And Magnum heads as mentioned are pretty good right off the assembly line.
I think somebody mentioned just grabbing a 5.9 take-out engine from the local pickNpull. That is a great idea. For a few hundred dollars you already have a perfect engine for your application. Do the usual tests and if it passes just drop it in as is. Whoever said that, was on the money. I was and am just giving my opinion, as to the combo I would build.

So would you say your plan you laid out is a good street machine and cruiser all in one while still getting reasonable mileage and RPMS at 65 mph?
I drove that engine daily for 4 years loving every second of it. I'm a manual-trans guy, and I tried it with every Mopar trans ratio there is, and finally installed a GVod.
I tried it with almost every rear gear from 2.76s to 5.38s.
I would still be driving it today, if somebody wouldda sent me a memo about taking out the ZDDP in about 2004. It dropped 2 lobes right after an oilchange.IMO, that was a fantastic combo.
I can tell you that I like a cruse rpm of ~2250. But it's hard to give the engine the timing it wants if you go any slower. And if you can't satisfy her need for timing, then the fuel economy will not be there. IMO 2400 is a sweet place to be.
I could tell you, that in one iteration, it got 32 mpgsUS, but I've been told that is impossible. Well at 2600 it is. But that was a one-time controlled test with a double overdrive, and cruising 65=1530rpm, and with a specially prepared carb. That engine was amazing.
As to scary;If you put a 750DP on the combo I outlined and a 3000TC, yes it can be scary. But in direct proportion to how far you open the throttle,lol. And how skinny your tires are. Once the back is over sideways just a few degrees, you only have microseconds to correct; don't ever think you can ride it out cuz I guarantee you with skinny street tires you cannot. At least not without a lot of practice.The brakes do not work when you are sliding sideways. Trust me!! Get off the gas, ASAP, and hang your head, and live to try it again at another time.
But with a 500 or a 600 vacuum secondary carb,and an automatic, you will be fine; even your Dad will have a hard time to get it into trouble.

At 3650 pounds, mine was only just a 12 second car.
By it's trapspeed of 106, the Wallace makes that to be 335 hp. By it's ET of 12.9 the Wallace says 336hp.That is as good as it gets.
I drove there; made one run; fell over laughing,bought a T-shirt, and went home; 2.5 hours each way.
I'm not telling you that this combo is the best or that you have to build it or else!,lol. You will not offend me if you build something else. What I am saying is that I had a rollicking good time with this combo, and I often miss that 223/230 cam. It did everything I could ever want in a streeter, and more.
 
Magnum
or late 360 roller block
deck heights are different so all the pieces stack up differently
head cc's vary all over the place too as do pistons

"at the beginning you mentioned the 360 paired with the A998. Then at the end in the recap you mentioned using the 904. So whats the real thoughts?"
I'd wager aj is using the 904 as a generic term for an a998/a999
let's see what he says he just postd after I wrote this
Me i'd use the a999 with a taller rear gear and a wide flat powerband
Testdrive a dodge dakota with a 318 or 360 magum and lock out the od
how's it drive
enouhg power for you?
what else do you need
then try with the od to simulate a tall geared 3 speed TF
how'd that work?
how did hitting passing gear feel?
don't feel bd I have to read aj,s posts over also
well worth it and food for thought
 
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You could stroke the 318 and go with a GM 200R4 auto. Nice over drive and you don't have to cut the car to pieces or buy expensive transmission control. That would leave you with the "numbers matching" engine......you did mention that as if it might be a little important.
 
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