New engine has loss of compression

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moper said:
That bearing's fine but if you're rebuilding it (and so you can clean out the oil gallies) you're replacing them anyway... So just make sure the new cam bearings allow the new cam to be turned by hand.
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I guess so, but don't I need a special tool to replace the bearings?

And I took everything in today, the guy at the engine shop didn't think I need to re ring the motor, he asked my about the compression numbers that I got and thought they were good, essentially said it was up to me but that due to the low mileage that I didn't really have to.

Now if I do re-ring it would I have to take it in to get honed for the new rings?
 
Okay so I have the heads on getting all fixed up and new springs put in. And there was a weird problem...Most if not all of the valve tips have odd wear on them, on a few it seems like there is a little indentation. And remember this is only with 3k miles.

The guy at the engine shop told me to take a look at my rocker arms, and a few of them have wear on only one side of the roller, and others have scuffing on parts, looks like the roller stopped spinning or something, and when I spin them by hand they have a slight rough spot when turning. I was looking at them and cant figure out how the roller tip is oiled either. He didn't recommend me using them and thinks that they may have caused the wear, especially since I am going to a solid roller cam with alot more spring pressure than the old flat tappet.

The current rocker arms are PRW aluminum roller rockers, I have heard that some people have good luck with the stainless ones, but no idea about the aluminum ones, well I guess new rocker arms are in order as well. This engine continues to snowball...

He recommended comp, harland sharp, or crane rocker arms. Any other good ones? He said that full roller rockers instead of bushed with roller tips would be ideal, but they are more expensive. He said that he recently had a harland sharp rocker that broke, but after 15 years of being on a drag car...
 
Go Harland Sharp and never look back.
 
Head could have been repaired on the engine. Dip the threading tool in some grease and go after it! The grease would catch most if not all the lil slivers of Aluminum. If not, as soon as you tried to crank it back up, if any little bits were in there they would have shot out the exhaust before the engine even fired off.
 
Mad Dart said:
Head could have been repaired on the engine. Dip the threading tool in some grease and go after it! The grease would catch most if not all the lil slivers of Aluminum. If not, as soon as you tried to crank it back up, if any little bits were in there they would have shot out the exhaust before the engine even fired off.
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It probably could have but there were some other problems that I found as I took things apart. The heads needed a valve job as well (ootb eddies) and the tops of the valves were wore funny as well. And the cam had excessive wear as well.

So it's essentially a few little things that needed to be fixed, I wish it was just the heads...
 
RustyRatRod said:
Go Harland Sharp and never look back.
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I was looking into harland sharp rockers and they say that they need taller valves to correct the geometry, is that true? Could lash caps be used to correct the geometry?
 
DartVadar said:
I was looking into harland sharp rockers and they say that they need taller valves to correct the geometry, is that true? Could lash caps be used to correct the geometry?
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You're lookin at the wrong ones. Can you post a link?
 
DartVadar said:
It probably could have but there were some other problems that I found as I took things apart. The heads needed a valve job as well (ootb eddies) and the tops of the valves were wore funny as well. And the cam had excessive wear as well.

So it's essentially a few little things that needed to be fixed, I wish it was just the heads...
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I hear you. It was more just for information is all. Carry on!
 
DartVadar said:
These are the ones I was looking at on their website.

http://www.harlandsharp.com/sb_mopar.htm
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No. You are reading the description wrong. It says they are designed so that they CAN be used with camshafts that require longer valves due to the longer springs the high lift cams require. It does not mean you HAVE to use longer valves. Call Them. They will tell you all about it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
No. You are reading the description wrong. It says they are designed so that they CAN be used with camshafts that require longer valves due to the longer springs the high lift cams require. It does not mean you HAVE to use longer valves. Call Them. They will tell you all about it.
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ahh okay I guess I should read things more closely then, thats good, I guess I could use them then.

flyfish said:
Harland sharps are nice, but I could not get them to clear my springs without cutting them. Comp Pro Mag's will clear your springs and they're stronger...and oddly enough, cheaper too. FWIW, I have been beating on a set of these since 2001 with no problems.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1622-16/overview/make/chrysler
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Im sure those comp ones are good, are the rockers bushed on the shaft?
 
Yes, the newer version of the Comp rocker is bushed, the older version is not.
 
Yes, the Comps are an excellent choice too. I ran a set of the old style that was unbushed, but they held up fine. They are nice pieces too.
 
Those comps seem like a good rocker arms, better than my old ones!

And I was taking a look at the bores of the motor and there are some vertical lines, all of them look about the same, and nothing really catches your finger. Would they be okay with just a light hone for the new rings? Or is this fairly normal? It was hard to get a very good picture, but there is lots of crosshatching. Also the piston skirts dont have a mark on them, they look brand new still.

On a side note my engine guy took a look at the piston with the rings on it and said that they looked like new still, he said that I wouldn't have to re-ring it but could if I wanted to. I think I want to re-ring it though, but whats to say that the rings are completely fine and don't need replacing?
 

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DartVadar said:
Those comps seem like a good rocker arms, better than my old ones!

And I was taking a look at the bores of the motor and there are some vertical lines, all of them look about the same, and nothing really catches your finger. Would they be okay with just a light hone for the new rings? Or is this fairly normal? It was hard to get a very good picture, but there is lots of crosshatching. Also the piston skirts dont have a mark on them, they look brand new still.

On a side note my engine guy took a look at the piston with the rings on it and said that they looked like new still, he said that I wouldn't have to re-ring it but could if I wanted to. I think I want to re-ring it though, but whats to say that the rings are completely fine and don't need replacing?
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Did you ask your engine builder about the vertical marks?
 
DartVadar said:
On a side note my engine guy took a look at the piston with the rings on it and said that they looked like new still, he said that I wouldn't have to re-ring it but could if I wanted to. I think I want to re-ring it though, but whats to say that the rings are completely fine and don't need replacing?
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Well,, if you'd done that solvent test I mentioned,, it's woulda given you an indication, and confirmed that...

tried to help.. cheers
 
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