Oil filter relocation kit

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Wow, that's the picture I was looking for, lol. Out of the car so you can see better. I will be running the spool mounts instead of the biscuits, but it looks like it would be too close either way. I'd make the plate myself with gasket material, but knowing my luck it would probably leak all over the place.
 
Bushchi340 Did you order this as a kit? Or did you just buy an lines and the fitting and put it together yourself? Also doesnt someone else make a block off plate other than TTI?
Thanks Aj
 
I did order a kit but finally you need only the part for the oil filter. Lines and fittings are ok except the ones to connect on the engine.

I don't know another supplier than TTI. I would fab the plate myself next time.
 
I heard one guy complain that the XV plate leaked for him, but I can't imagine there's a huge difference between their's and TTI. It can't be that complex of a part aside from the O ring grooves.
 
Yup, that's what I was thinking. I guess they could have done something different with the O rings. Tried to call them today to see what all comes with it, that might be the price difference. TTI's comes with bolts and o rings, not sure if the XV one does, so that might make up some of the price difference.
 
Hello there, I'm in the middle of putting my 69' Dart together, and have installed a 7 quart Milodon Oil pan and pick up on my 340. The motor I bought used and it already had a Deep oil pan on it, but it would not work with my center link. So I drained the oil, removed that pan, and bought a 7 quart Milodon with a recess in it for the center link. That part works fine, except, the previous oil pan had a dipstick built into it, and the Milodon does not. So I bought a dipstick that will go directly into the block, from Milodon, made for the deeper pans. Here's my problem, the motor also has a remote Oil Filter set up with two oil fliters on it. I know this sounds like a dumb question, but how many quarts should I put in it? I have no reference as to where the full line should be on the dipstick. It's a 7 quart pan, but I have two filters plus the hoses, how much oil will that all take up? Should I put in 7 or 8 or more?
 
FILTER RELOCATION KITS: these kits work just peachy but remember two things: 1 they are not made for daily drivers or cars that are driven often or any distance. 2. The lines are made of rubber and as such should be replaced ever couple of years depending on use.

I have seen with my own eyes two year old lines burst and spray a hard mist of hot oil everywhere including onto the exhaust manifolds/headers which typically results in an instant underhood fire. They are great for race cars but if you are using your car for something beyond JUST racing....you might think of an alternative solution that does NOT involve rubber hoses.
JUST sayin..... dont need a flurry of debate or refuting
 
on your question the pan holds 7qts so dump in 7 there. The filters should be filled up before they are installed. Do not worry about the capacity in the lines, it's asmall amount. Hope that helps you.

now rubber lines for the remote oil filter. I agree that they should be inspected. However it's not as bad as your makig it out to be. Yes the fire potential is there, but the same can be said for fuel lines. Personally I would just run a steel braded line and forget about it. I'm not debating with you just giving my input. My car will be street driven and raced with a remot oil filter. And I have not once even thought about rubber lines. Going to use steel when the time comes. But with proper inspection it will not be an issue.
 
45 degree oil adapter from the dealer is very reasonable. Mine comes in tomorrow, will be fitting it tomorrow as well.
 
you have a part number for it? I might give it a shot it has to be better than remote.
 
I'll nab the number off it...later today I guess (1:51am) Will post it later in the evening if I get a chance.
 
Kit is nice, needs the K-frame clearanced at the tip, other than that, snug fit but...isn't everything in a 5.7L A-body? Part# is: 53021612AE, shouldn't cost more than 50 bucks.
 
Buschi340 said:
that's correct. The center hole is the inlet. If you follow the hoses on below TTI picture you can see the the upper connection is the outlet and the bottom one is the return.
Click to expand...

If you are referencing the filter itself - that is not correct. The oil enters the outer area of the filter, passes through the media and out the center connection into the engine. Oil always flows from the outside of the filter media to the inside.
 

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you are right. I center hole is the outlet... but if you follow the routing from the TTI picture it will work right. Because it is working that way on my engine. And I have now 500mls on it.... Picture is from a supplier called BOSCH
 

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I'm about to go pick up this 45* oil filer.. but I swear it looks like I will be cutting a ton off the passenger side mount.. will I be fine?
 
Biscuit style... I just modified what I need to get the 45* oil filter housing in.
 
66cuda said:
FILTER RELOCATION KITS: these kits work just peachy but remember two things: 1 they are not made for daily drivers or cars that are driven often or any distance. 2. The lines are made of rubber and as such should be replaced ever couple of years depending on use.

I have seen with my own eyes two year old lines burst and spray a hard mist of hot oil everywhere including onto the exhaust manifolds/headers which typically results in an instant underhood fire. They are great for race cars but if you are using your car for something beyond JUST racing....you might think of an alternative solution that does NOT involve rubber hoses.
JUST sayin..... dont need a flurry of debate or refuting
Click to expand...
I ran a relocation kit everyday for 7 years with no problem. I threw away the hoses, and clamps that came with the kit. I went down to my local Case International Harvester dealer, and told them what I was doing. The whipped me up the proper hoses, and fittings.( good to over 2000lbs per square inch. ) and they never leak. I was able to put my filter up on my fender so that the oil always drained back, and when I changed filters, I popped my hood, and there was very little mess. since the engine oils from the top end down. I don't think it causes any problem with starvation. I had the engine apart last winter, freshening it up for my new build, and it looks nice. ( and yes I burst the lines that came with the kit, right over the reserve parking spot for our local police chief. The cheap lines and clamps are nothing but trouble.)
 
Not trying to hijack, but is there modification/relocation required with the 68-70 B-bodies?
 
SO i know this is old, but here's what I've gathered

73+ is going to need the blockoff plate/ relocation kit due to the spool mount, regardless. I don't see the filter adapter working due to space. A, B ,E doesn't seem to matter. unless you make your own mounts?

72 and back A,B,E May be able to squeeze the durango adapter in there...but you will have to notch the k member no matter what, unless going with the little baby PH3512 filter.

please correct me if i'm incorrect? would love to nail this down.
 
On my 69 A body biscuit k I used the angle adapter. Had to notch the k, even with the small filter when using tti mounts. Also had to trim my biscuit, wasn't a huge deal as I used solid small block mounts.
 
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