Old School Engine Rebuild

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oldsatellite73

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Chattanooga, TN
Hello, My name is Donald. I am new to this site and am seeking advice and ideas. I am doing an engine build, strictly old school.

I am restoring and improving my Grandfathers 1973 stellite which was recovered from his farm field after sitting 30 (+) years. So far I have restored the body, no bondo in this baby. Shaved the exterior side trim and repainted it an original and curious color of FE5 Ralley Red (Sort of Red-Orange). Repaied/Replaced all plastic trim and chrome. Repaired and corrected all electrical problems and shorts. Restored the interior, right down to the factory aftermarket 8 track tape player with dual speakers in the rear deck). The suspension has been upgraded with a P.S.T. kit and frame isolators (k member) replaced. It is now time for the engine and transmission.
The engine in question is the Numbers matching 318 with A904 Transmission which came with the car.

So far I have disassembled and cleaned all parts. Had the block dipped and checked for cracks. Bored .30 over due to a head gasket leak into the #3 cylinder which sat for years. New brass freeze plugs. Crank polished and connecting rods checked and peened. New TRW pistons with double valve reliefs. New cam and main bearings. Standard heads with a three angle valve job and new springs. Upgrade cam, i.e. Comp Cams XE262H-10. New Mellig HD oil pump. Had the entire assembly balanced as a unit.

Parts which have been given to me are as follows: Edelbrock S.P.2.P.-318 4 bbl intake. Edelbrock 1406 performer series carb. with electric choke. Edelbrock chrome valve covers. Stock Chrysler electronic ignition system. I have the stock exhaust manifolds which will allow me to order Head pipes from tti and install a dual exhaust. My birthday present this year included a pulley conversion kit from Bouchillon Performance which allows me to bypas the A/C system and remove excess weight. The A/C system components are now in storage for future consideration.

I would like to improve the performace of this engine with components which can easily be purchased from local stores and suppliers. I would like suggestions and advice concerning any do it yourself improvements which can make minor horsepower gains, and do not jepordize lont term use. Things such as distributor advance springs, carb. spacers, windage tray, porting and gasket matching, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I AM NOT PLANNING TO RACE THIS CAR NOW OR IN THE FUTURE. It has become the Hot Rod all guys wanted during their teenage years growing up.

P.S. Just scored a floor shift column from a 1973 Plyouth Roadrunner and a Spector Brand floor shifter. With an original bench seat car this could get interesting in the future.

Thanks in advace for any and all help....
 
Lose the sp2p intake. Made entirely for milage. Get a Performer. And where are the pictures?
 
Hi Donald, Sounds like you're doing well so far. The SP2P is an economy intake. I would ditch it and find a std Performer for it. For a distributor, the MP conversion piece would be my choice. It's a drop in, with only a little tuning to maximize it for your engine after.
 
I'd put a windage tray in to help control the oil inside the motor, along with a recurved dist and a performer or stock cast iron 4 bbl intake as mentioned above.

Headers will make a huge difference in power and torque.

I'd get a mild stall converter for it too. Best thing to do is call up the converter companies and tell them your exact combination, they'll tell you what stall converter to use.
 
This posting was made while I was still far away (IRAQ). Spent the last couple of days getting home (finally). I want to thank everyone who has responded so far and WISH ALL A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS. I have a big list of questions and started off with this one. I will post again after a couple of days sleep (i'm 8 hours out of time right now)...... Donald
 
:cheers:Well people, I took the car out of storage 2 days ago. Beautiful thing, started right up after charging the battery and priming the carb. Just a small bit of smoke on start up, and purred like a kitten once warmed.

It seems I may have told a small lie. After reviewing all my grandfathers papers in the glove box, the engine had been replaced once at 22,319 miles. This was a warranty replacement (Chattanooga Dodge).

Since I forgot to mention them earlier, here are the casting numbers. The numbers on this engine are as follows: left front pad - M348R C7122184 (Mound Road?). The block casting number is - 2536030 318-9. Head casting number is - 2843675 (int. - 1.78 and exh. - 1.50). When the machine work was done only 10 thousands were taken off the block deck to clean up the surfaces. 5 thousands were taken off of the heads to clean the surfaces. The compression should still be from 8.2.1 to 8.8.1 (guessing). I did not have it zero decked to the pistons at the time.

Exhaust manifold casting numbers are: L/S - 2951916 and R/S - 2843953 (Stock).

My transmission is a A904 automatic equipped for light duty. The rear end is an 8 1/4 open carrier with the 271 tag still on it under the grease and grime.
Took the time to put the new tires and rims on her to see what it would look like. 15x8 aluminum slots on front with P235/70R15 WRL and 5x8 on the back with P255/70R15 WRL. Stance is really nice and looks sweet. Still have to get a 15 inch steel rim for the spare.

Finally scored the inner rear sail panels to replace the heat cracked old ones ($25.00 for the pair). The should arrive in the mail in a few days from California.

Don't know if the further information will help any, or is of any interest.
Thanks.... Donald

P.S. There is currently a 318 from a donor 1974 Satellite Wagon running in the car. The original engine mentioned above, is on the stand to be worked on.
 
Time for another update. I have spent the last few days reading through the entire question and answer archives. You people do get around, very opinionated crowd here (ha! ha!). After reviewing everything that has been posted so far and all the messages I have been sent, here is what I am going to do.....

Using many of the parts I have: Keep the Sp2P intake and edelbrock carb in place of the original 2bbl iron intake with carb. Port and gasket match the intake to the heads (minimum only the intake side). Paint to match the engine, keeping stock looking appearance. Use the stock valve covers in place of the chrome edelbrock (stock look). An acceptable air cleaner is going to be a problem????

Use the mopar electronic ignition system without modification. Update this system with a Mopar Orange ignition box. Better plug wire set (to be determined).

Change out the stock exhaust manifolds for headers (brand to be determined). Dual exhaust (2 1/2 pipes) with H-pipe and dynomax mufflers. Forgivable modification????

Going to shelf the Air Conditioning for the time being (old school air for now, i.e. windows down and go faster).

While engine is out: Replace trans input seal (torque converter) and install shift kit (brand to be determined). Checking on a new torque converter (brand to be determined).

Convert to floor shift steering column (Harness should be interchangeable). Install floor shifter and new boot with trim ring. Has been suggested that a small guage cluster would be a nice addition (oil pressure, water temperature and apmerage). Has been suggested that a top dash mounted 3 inch tachometer would look good (am considering these options).

Replace existing 2.71 rear gears for 3.55 set. Limited slip rear end being considered (Money).

Put on new matching sport mirrors (painted black). Apply a 72 Roadrunner roof strobe stripe (semi-gloss black) without roadrunner symbol.

Install hood pin kit received as Christmas gift (cool look).

Rear sail panels have arrived and are being re-dyed to black so as to match interior for installation.

All Satellite and Sebring names are out for rechroming at this time to be put back on the car.

Looking for a Grant 3 spoke steering wheel to change the appearance (does not have to look like a tough wheel), Black or Brushed metal????

Remember people, the donar engine comming out is gouing to be rebuilt and kept on hand as a replacement (or not). This one can be built better and stronger for the future.

I MAY NOT SEE HALLOWEEN IN THE UNITED STATES THIS YEAR. WE ARE ALREADY "ON ALERT AGAIN". GOT THIS WARNING LAST NIGHT FROM MY UNIT AFTER POSTING THE LAST UPDATE. WOULD LIKE TO GET THIS DONE AND BACK IN STORAGE BEFORE IT IS TO LATE....

P.S. Need suggestions on fabricating (or not) the transmision kickdown linkage and throttle parts to work on this car as is.

Thanks in advance....

Donald
 
You might try to find an Edelbrock LD4B intake. It`s an old school piece (like you were referring to) and makes good power across the practical driving range. Headers are a must, a viscous fan, windage tray, and bump up the compression by shaving the heads and using a thin head gasket. A good hot ignition (like the MP unit) would help and incorporating a multi-spark would benefit performance without sacrificing anything else. A hemi-grind cam or similar and better valve springs would help with performance but hurt your gas mileage so that`s something you`d have to consider. A shift kit in your trans, a sure-grip rear w/pinion snubber, and a higher rear end gear will get you out of the hole better but again the gear will hurt your gas mileage. Clamping the front half of the leaf springs will help with traction. These are all suggestions but seem to parallel what you`ve proposed. Welcome to FABO, good luck with your restoration, and keep us posted.
 
Hey people! I wanted to show you what she looks like. THis was taken a few days ago just after the new tires and rims were put on by yours truly and a new coat of wax applied after 2 1/2 years of storage ended. I have the interior out right now, and am sewing it togeather myself. Its slow going while restarting a job again after so long (nights only). I will post more pictures weekly as time permits and things get done....

022_22.jpg
 
That is truly a beautiful Satellite! I'm with longgone though...dump that SP2P for an LD4B. Nice work and I wish you luck and thank you for your service.
 
Not being a race car or hot street car i,d rethink the air conditioner. With a nice exhaust system and intake she,ll sound good and you,ll probably not miss the few horses the air uses. In the summer you,ll really appreciate the air.And when its disconnected the lines are still visible and makes the underhood look unfinished.There are some nice air components and brackets available. This is only my opinion ,your car your way. And thank you very much for your efforts in protecting our freedom.
 
daredevil said:
Not being a race car or hot street car i,d rethink the air conditioner. With a nice exhaust system and intake she,ll sound good and you,ll probably not miss the few horses the air uses. In the summer you,ll really appreciate the air.And when its disconnected the lines are still visible and makes the underhood look unfinished.There are some nice air components and brackets available. This is only my opinion ,your car your way. And thank you very much for your efforts in protecting our freedom.
Click to expand...


+2 trust me on this one plus if you update to a new after market pump they only use like 5hp and god a/c is so nice when it getting hot outside
 
Nice looking ride. The strobe would look kewl.

Suggest 302 heads on the engine (from 85 or later donor). This alone is worth .2 more compression. For the stock looking air cleaner, any 71 or earlier Mopar 4 bbl car. The Thermoquad needed a bigger hole than the AVS and AFB did.

I have a TransGo RV shift kit in the Demon. The shifts are crisp without the harshness of the Strip kit.
 
Been a busy week with work and all..

I took the long block out of storage (climate controled/oil cloth wrapped). It was full of mineral oil and is clean as a whistle insde (just as I left it 2 1/2 years ago), she turned over beauticfully. I will do a partial tear down and make sure it is ok before complete assembly.

Afer several PMs, considerable thought and a few headaches (deep thought and study).. ALRIGHT, ALREADY GUYS, I WILL USE HEADERS (Power Steerin Type) AND CHANGE THE INTAKE. I CAN AFFORD A NEW PERFORMER IN ABOUT 3-4 WEEKS (AFTER I SAVE-UP). FIGURED TO FINISH THE EXHAUST SYSTEM COURTESY OF SUMMIT PARTS (CHEAPER THAT WAY).

I am going shopping next weekend for the essentials. New radiator hoses, thermostat, heater hoses, clamps, plug wires, fluids, some spark plugs and such...

I HAVE A QUESTION: WHAT BRAND AND GRADE OF OIL WOULD YOU GUYS RECOMMEND TO FIRST LIGHT THIS BABY OFF AND USE REGULARLY???
 
Your going to need an oil with zinc in it. Preferably a "break in" oil made just for the break in period. Used to be that the diesel engine oils had this zinc in them and we used that, but the EPA took care of that for us. This is a good thread to read for oil recommendations.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=41397 That sure is a beautiful car and I sincerely appreciate the sacrifices you are making so that we can all live free!
 
Update Time Again Guys.

Well, I went ahead and took some advice. When I took the long block apart to check it (storage for 2 1/2 years), I had .20 shave off the heads. I could not afford the bigger valves which were recommended, so I had the bowls cleaned and pocket ported. I also had the intake and head (exhaust and intake) openings ported and gasket matched as well.

As soon as I get the engine back togeather again, I will manually prime it and check the oil pressure.

I am looking for a mini starter to help clear the headers at this time (cheapest).

I am also saving for an oil filter relocation kit to get away from the heat of the headers, and save myself some scorched fingers in the future.

I still have to by a few items, fuel pump, fuel filter etc. and I can finally start to fully assemble the engine.

It has been sort of cold here (compared to IRAQ), and work is going very slow right now.

I have'nt gone to get the new pictures yet. So, I apoligize to one and all. Just been lazy, as restarting my job has been kicking my skinny butt real good. Guess i'm not as young as I used to be (ha! ha! ha!).

I will post again, soon as I have the pictures.
 
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