THAT sounds like a plan!!!! I'll relate the info to Freddie and see what he can do.
Here is some of his "creative" intercooler plumbing he's working on...
Progress report...
- Thread starter Bill Dedman
- Start date
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THAT sounds like a plan!!!! I'll relate the info to Freddie and see what he can do.
Here is some of his "creative" intercooler plumbing he's working on...
69Valiant4spd
Well-Known Member
Bill, this is in response to your '69 Valiant closet freak' comment to my son.
Our original idea was a new 410 stroker, but as you two guys know things have a way of changing on the way to the supermarket. I acquired this 1970 340-6 Pack & 727 trans. Which is supposed to be all original? (havent got around to disassembling and checking)
By the way I love what you 2 old farts :joker:are doing. Very cool project.
Our original idea was a new 410 stroker, but as you two guys know things have a way of changing on the way to the supermarket. I acquired this 1970 340-6 Pack & 727 trans. Which is supposed to be all original? (havent got around to disassembling and checking)
By the way I love what you 2 old farts :joker:are doing. Very cool project.
Thanks for the kind words! We take one step forward and two steps back, it seems...
That 6-pack setup will be awesome on the street. What a FUN CAR!!!! :thumrigh:
That's my line :hello2:
Ya do know I saved those pictures :thumrigh:
Freddie is enjoying his time on this one and it's looking good and moving forward :thumrigh::hello2::hello2:
Make any progress lately? I've been watching your build for a while, I'm hoping to turbo my slant someday. How's the weather down there? I hope you made it out of the storms ok. Keep up the good work! :thumrigh:
Here's what's happening:
We ecided to use a 1bbl induction system (stock Holler 1920 carb, rebuilt) to break in the cam. We just got that back, today. We still have to wire up the ignition system (MSD 6-AL/digital) and build a temporary fuel system for the temporary, break-in 1bbl carb.
Once that is done, and the cam is broken-in, we can assemble the permanent 1/2" fuel system and attach the turbo. Intercooler is mounted... but, not completely plumbed.
Still a ways to go, but we have in our inventory, all the parts to finish it.... just gotta get them put together.:hello1:
Engine and tranny are installed in the car and bolted to the Poly-mounts, as are the 8.75"rear axle housing and Cal-Tracs.
Roll bar is welded in, but we have to do wiring, yet....
Thanks for asking! :smile:
srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
Bill keep up the good work and Freddie inspire me.
Aaron
Aaron
From what we have heard, the best way to break in a solid lifter cam is to install a set of fairly WEAK valve springs, and run the engine at about 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes. We didn't want to take a chance on runaway rpm due to vacuum leaks, or washing down the cylinder walls with too rich a mixture, during the break-in process, using a 4 bbl carb that has been heavily modified, as opposed to a 1-bbl carb that is virtually bone stock. We figured the fuel management system in the stock 1 bbl was probably more manageble than the modified 4-bbl.
That's all...:study:
Cam Breakin, Bam Creakin.....you should have just fired it up without the charge piping connected.....ran it at 2000 rpm on the idle adjustment.....monitored it for fluid leaks, and engine temp, shut it down and hooked up the piping and you'd be in Tune It Time already.
I understand the cautiousness.....but the water is not going to get any better....Fire that thing up!
just razzing ya
I understand the cautiousness.....but the water is not going to get any better....Fire that thing up!
just razzing ya
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Just so you know that is a MYTH using the weaker valve springs. As long as you have good oil pressure and don't let it get under 2000 RPM for 20-30 Minutes it will be fine.
One time I had a bad oil leak on the dyno after 5 minutes of breaking in the cam, we shut it down, fixed the leak and carried on with the Break in of the cam about 40 minutes later with no problems at all using the springs I was going to use. Solid Flat Tappet Cam.
Who says that breaking a cam in with weaker springs is a myth?
That's something I have not heard, but I am listening.... What's the deal?
waggin
moving on ain't easy if you drive a Ford :p
It no myth.....I sell aluminum cylinder heads set up for up to .700 lift.... when they go on a new engine we remove the inner valve spring until the engine has been broken in......the one bbl seems like a safe way to do it if you have worries about the other carb...better safe than sorry good thinkin !!!!
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Well let me rephrase, for your application it is unnessasary to use weaker springs to break the cam in and yes it is a MYTH for an application like yours. What is your pressure over the nose? 320lbs?
Just because a cam has 700 lift does not mean that the spring pressures are over the limit and require the inner springs to be removed so the cam don't go flat. Some guys use Beehive springs that have no inner spring. What do they do?
I am not saying that people don't do it, I am just saying that it is unnecessary in most cases. People like to say that my cam did not go flat because I took out the inner spring.....they say this because they took them out and that is their experience. I am saying I leave mine in and I have never had one go flat yet.
Most guys at 700 lift would go Solid Roller and the problem is gone all together even with the High Spring pressures.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
Old profiles dont really need the inner removed unless running over 160 seat and over 350'ish open.jmo
the beehives use less psi to control what a double would normally use more on, it's better harmonics in the beehives, unlike the regular stuff and how it's trying to expand/push every which way but up, you need the pressure to just to keep the spring in check.
But I'm no expert on springs, I dont make them, sell them, or dream about them.
lol
the beehives use less psi to control what a double would normally use more on, it's better harmonics in the beehives, unlike the regular stuff and how it's trying to expand/push every which way but up, you need the pressure to just to keep the spring in check.
But I'm no expert on springs, I dont make them, sell them, or dream about them.
lol
Shaker223
Boost Rules
I broke mine in with the springs that I'm running today. As said before, our springs are very mild compared to what is being run today. I don't have the specs here but know it was less than 350psi open...maybe 140 on the seat.
Bill, you should have pumped it twice and hit the key. 8-)
Bill, you should have pumped it twice and hit the key. 8-)
Well, I have built lots of solid flat motors. All of them had the inner springs removed and broke the cam in fine. Every single cam manufacturer I have talked to says to do it. Every local engine builder/racer I know personally does it. That right there is good enough for me.
I agree with Louis....and I have built and assisted with many performance builds, as well as worked for Cummins Engine INC BUILDING brand new engines, and regardless of application I have never broke in a cam by lessening the valve spring pressure specifically for "cam breakin" and I have witnessed in Cruz Pedregons VIP tent that they do not breakin a cam.....they crank it up on alcohol to check everything over....then they turn the valve to Nitro after the burnout....and let it rip.
The only reason I intially replied was about the Carb....I would not have changed anything from the way it was going to be after crankup and cam breakin..A turbo engine is either running NA/Forced Induction depending on if the piping is hooked up, and if the Engine Load is above the Compressor Threshold, and its almost impossible to build boost without a load.....I would have done it all on the 4bbl. Period. End of story.
Cam lobe wipeage is a chevy problem.
The only reason I intially replied was about the Carb....I would not have changed anything from the way it was going to be after crankup and cam breakin..A turbo engine is either running NA/Forced Induction depending on if the piping is hooked up, and if the Engine Load is above the Compressor Threshold, and its almost impossible to build boost without a load.....I would have done it all on the 4bbl. Period. End of story.
Cam lobe wipeage is a chevy problem.
CUUDAK
Well-Known Member
My 500" RB ate 3 cams. All 3 were "Purple Shafts" and all 3 lost the #7 intake lobe. Never did pinpoint reason. Changed to a Lunati and it never happened again!
srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
Bill how's Every thing going are u and Freddie making any progress the Toad is getting close to final assembly
Aaron
Aaron
Both Freddie and I have run into some time-consuming issues that have nothing to do with cars, but have eaten up a lot of time, letely, so neither of us has had any time to work on the car, but that won't last forever. I have a foot problem (diabetic ulcer) that is part and parcel of my ongoing "peripheral artery disease," while he has encountered some family issues that have demanded his time and attention. That should be over, soon.
We still have to install the fuel cell, the fuel pump, the lines and filters, the return line, the regulator and route all that stuff, and install the Snowperformance Boost/Meth injector and reservoir.
I will buy a wiring harness to get juice to everything, later this month.
I don't think we have anything left to buy, once all that is done.
Still, it won't be running for at least a month, or so.
If this is boring you, I apologize, but I hadn't been writing at all, lately (foot concerns; doc said to keep it elevated, and I don't have a laptop, so, that's hard to do and sit at a computer desk.)
We'll get there...
I'd love to read what some of the other /6-turbo guys have planned for the rest of 2011.
Ryan, Tom,and anyone else who has envisioned changes/improvements for their cars this year would be of great interest, if any of you can spare the time to enlighten us!
Thanks for your interest!!!
Bill 'n' Fred in Arkansas
srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
Bill I was alittle concerned is all I haven't seen any post by u in a couple weeks I'm sorry to here u and Freddie are alittle under the weather and I hope u guys are ok
Aaron
Aaron
Thanks for your concern, Aaron. We'll be back, in a few weeks, and find out if that thing is gonna run, or not....
YOU keep US posted!!! :rock:
Bill
turbo66valiant
Well-Known Member
Hope you get to feeling better Bill, my progress was going well until the new converter was way to loose. Launching at over 5000 and shifting at 5200 doesn't work well. I might have turned the screws up a bit also. he he he
Later
Later
Thanks, Ryan; I'm making progress with this %^%$*$#@ foot.
might get something done nest week. Scary article about cam break-in, in this month's Car Craft.... Almost makes me want to rob a liquor store and use the money to buy a roller for this thing...:cwm21:
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